The best part of poker is stacking the chips
Custom CPC vs Rounders Replica Set (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter BigDot
- Start date
OP
OP
BigDot
Sitting Out
Does anyone know the upcoming mold schedule at CPC and the corresponding cutoff dates for orders?
A year ago there was a year long wait when I inquired about a custom set.
https://www.pokerchipforum.com/threads/upcoming-molds.34416/ It changes, but estimates are in there. Start at the end and work your way forward.
I completely agree. If you look down that thread, I seem to recall that I told him I was going to copy his design exactly one day! LOL. I wouldn't do that, but I might come pretty darned close... They are so fine. Josh's set is super nice too.
Do they ever do some type of group buy on cpc chips?
No point, there is no discount for larger orders
OP
OP
BigDot
Sitting Out
You are very much mistaken. In a home game setting, even in a very regular home game, ceramics will not show wear. I'd still buy the clay but not because I was scared of ceramic wear.
I would not rush in to a CPC buy, especially for 1000+ chips, without some serious research and experimentation. For that reason, buying some Tina ceramics at 30c a chip would be a good way to see if you like the design/colours you have chosen and make necessary tweaks before dropping serious coin on a custom clay set.
OP
OP
BigDot
Sitting Out
So I'm interested in both to be honest, and wouldn't mind having a ceramic set. I keep hearing about "Tina ceramics" so can you point me in the right direction on how to get in touch or research their product. That price point definitely cannot be ignored for sure. And do the ceramics' colors pop like the bright custom clays do? That was one of my biggest concerns committing to a workhorse ceramic set (colors would be unappealing). Thanks!!
https://www.pokerchipforum.com/thre...ramics-master-consolidated-info-thread.65544/
Clays and ceramics are different beasts. Since ceramics are printed, they will pop only as much as the printer can print. So you won't get the UV glow of the dayglo clay chip but it doesn't mean they won't look good. Have a look at the above thread and the showcase to see for yourself.
https://www.pokerchipforum.com/threads/cards-mold-showcase.69344/
Careful on the charcoal 100. Though the chip design looks exellent, the same charcoal for the denom might end up being darker than you'd want.
I intended to color match everything for one of my own cpc sets but made an exception for my charcoal $1 given its a workhorse and I wanted it to really stand out:
I intended to color match everything for one of my own cpc sets but made an exception for my charcoal $1 given its a workhorse and I wanted it to really stand out:
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OP
OP
BigDot
Sitting Out
Thanks for the tip. Will CPC adjust the colors for me or do I just order samples and rely on myself for the actual color? Definitely feels a little like flying blind, but was able to study several photos of each color from what others on this site have posted in the colors I'm going with. Great job on your set!!
CPC will design the chip/inlay exactly as you submit the inlay info. Given the investment it literally pays to get it right the first time. The denom text color on your 100 MIGHT be fine as is; however, if there's any doubt, lightening it by a shade or two may be a good decision.
The chip design tool does a pretty good job at matching colors but there is no substitute for seeing them in person first. I may have missed it if you talked about this already, but I HIGHLY recommend getting a CPC color sample before you make any order from them. That will show you any disparity between the designer and what the colors look like in reality. Plus, you can perhaps print your inlays on paper and psuedo place them atop the sample chips just to get a better idea of what they'll look like from CPC.
I'm guilty of getting a few chips wrong and then redesigning/reordering. It's an expensive mistake for certain, but don't get me wrong; CPC's are worth it.
The chip design tool does a pretty good job at matching colors but there is no substitute for seeing them in person first. I may have missed it if you talked about this already, but I HIGHLY recommend getting a CPC color sample before you make any order from them. That will show you any disparity between the designer and what the colors look like in reality. Plus, you can perhaps print your inlays on paper and psuedo place them atop the sample chips just to get a better idea of what they'll look like from CPC.
I'm guilty of getting a few chips wrong and then redesigning/reordering. It's an expensive mistake for certain, but don't get me wrong; CPC's are worth it.
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OP
OP
BigDot
Sitting Out
Got it. Yeah, I will order the sample chips pronto so I can get them in my paws. Thank you for the clarity as I do not want to make an expensive mistake at all.
Dang it. you got your response in before I could complete my edit ! lol
You can create a single set and export all the chips in one image.
MeridianFC
Flush
This X100
OP
OP
BigDot
Sitting Out
I bought all the color samples this morning. Boom!
@justincarothers has been running Tina GBs monthly since the summer. Purely up to him if he's going to continue those. I've previously partaken in one of them and he does a really good job handling everything.
Others here have run them as well, so there generally will be good opportunities for Tina chip orders if one is patient.
Others here have run them as well, so there generally will be good opportunities for Tina chip orders if one is patient.
Old State
Full House
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I played with custom CPCs for 18 years. I went with ceramic for my new set because they are easier to clean. If you play a lot the chips will get sticky like at the casino.
My game has shifted to lower stakes over the last two years but $1/2 and the occasional $2/5 game was my main poker group for most of that time. You can probably get away with 5-600 chips. I built a cash set to cover me for .50/.50 through $2/5. I would recommend heavy on the $5. I personally hate too many denominations in play but also like to limit unnecessary chips. Makes things a lot easier if you are the bank.
Here is my last set of 1200 in standard NJ casino colors/denominations except for the .50 which are blue. For a big $1/2 and regular $2/5 you would be fine with the amount of whites and reds here and one rack of greens.
EDIT- if you play a lot of $2/5 I’d recommend everything here except the .50. Or maybe swap 100 reds for green or probably blacks if your guys are playing at typical casino stakes. This would be $11260 which is about two $500 buy ins for ten people at $2/5
For $1/2 I only give out white $1s for the initial buyin. Any reloads are always in red. If I use up the reds I get greens in play. $1/2 is the easiest to bank as we usually can keep just two denominations on the table. I’m seriously considering switching our .50/1 game to $1/1 to get the blues off the table! After a 5 hour session and a few beers cashing out at 2am isn’t always easy
My game has shifted to lower stakes over the last two years but $1/2 and the occasional $2/5 game was my main poker group for most of that time. You can probably get away with 5-600 chips. I built a cash set to cover me for .50/.50 through $2/5. I would recommend heavy on the $5. I personally hate too many denominations in play but also like to limit unnecessary chips. Makes things a lot easier if you are the bank.
Here is my last set of 1200 in standard NJ casino colors/denominations except for the .50 which are blue. For a big $1/2 and regular $2/5 you would be fine with the amount of whites and reds here and one rack of greens.
EDIT- if you play a lot of $2/5 I’d recommend everything here except the .50. Or maybe swap 100 reds for green or probably blacks if your guys are playing at typical casino stakes. This would be $11260 which is about two $500 buy ins for ten people at $2/5
For $1/2 I only give out white $1s for the initial buyin. Any reloads are always in red. If I use up the reds I get greens in play. $1/2 is the easiest to bank as we usually can keep just two denominations on the table. I’m seriously considering switching our .50/1 game to $1/1 to get the blues off the table! After a 5 hour session and a few beers cashing out at 2am isn’t always easy
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CPC = Rolls Royce
Ceramics = Toyota
Both will drive but you’ll definitely know the difference. If you can afford it go with CPC. I’ve owned a bunch of different chips. I’ve made custom ceramics, they don’t hold up that well to heavy use (Daily Use). I ordered probably about 2K ceramics and they lasted 4-5 years. They technically still work but they are all smoothed out and faded and slippery. The colors weren’t as bright as I would have liked. I use a Paulson set now which is similar to CPC. I’m expecting my first shipment of Tina Card Molds (ceramics) in a week as a set of tournament chips. Will be excited to see how they hold up in the long run.
Ceramics = Toyota
Both will drive but you’ll definitely know the difference. If you can afford it go with CPC. I’ve owned a bunch of different chips. I’ve made custom ceramics, they don’t hold up that well to heavy use (Daily Use). I ordered probably about 2K ceramics and they lasted 4-5 years. They technically still work but they are all smoothed out and faded and slippery. The colors weren’t as bright as I would have liked. I use a Paulson set now which is similar to CPC. I’m expecting my first shipment of Tina Card Molds (ceramics) in a week as a set of tournament chips. Will be excited to see how they hold up in the long run.
Darthhoodie
Flush
Well I respectfully disagree I had some chipco (classics maybe) that 100% showed the wear, white ring on most faded face on some. I guess that may not bother some people but I didn't like it. I did use the hell out of them so I did say under heavy use (biweekly poker league that ran for many years). I do like ceramics especially BRPro those guys rock, but cpc's are heirloom quality chips (and cost accordingly). Maybe the newer BR Pro blanks hold up better, I can't speak to that, I don't even use mine at all.
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Agree...If I get a chance I will post pics of my old Chiplab ceramics. Not all ceramics are equal but my experience is that they do wear.
Under those conditions, I would expect them to have wear like a casino Chipco.
For a home game, I expect a new Chipco ceramic or BRPro chip to show minimal wear for many years.
TheDuke
Full House
Yep - I thought dice chips were indestructible. But see below. With enough regular use, all chips will eventually wear down.
Listen to this man.
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