60” Round Poker Table – First Build (1 Viewer)

Bredog

Sitting Out
Joined
Sep 8, 2020
Messages
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Location
Tennessee
First, I want to thank all the other people that posted their poker table builds with detailed pictures, it was a huge help in deciding what to do and how to do it.

This is my first poker table build and the reason I went with round is because the room it will be in, oval just would not work. Going 60” round was a must because we always have 8 people playing a cash game. I went with a track because that is want most people in my group prefer, however maybe in the future I will go full custom felt, those look pretty nice on this forum. I hope this post helps the next person on their table build, feel free to ask any questions, I definitely still have a few of my own on how to get better next time.

List of materials used:

Material
Cost (tax/shipping included)
Source
(2X) 3/4" 5’x5’ Russian Birch Plywood
$104​
Middle TN Lumber, Dickson
1/2" 5’x5’ Plywood
$24​
Middle TN Lumber, Dickson
1" Solid Charcoal Firm Foam - 80"x72"
$52​
https://www.thefoamfactory.com/
61" Wide Rail Vinyl
$72​
https://www.justpokersupplies.com/p...-black-two-way-stretch-sold-per-running-foot/
2-A Density Volara - 1/4" Thick Closed Cell Foam (WHITE) (2 yards)
$22​
www.yourautotrim.com
Nickel Plated "Chrome" Decorative Nail Head (Individual) $11www.yourautotrim.com
Osborne Quick Nailer $9www.yourautotrim.com
Holdem Casino Suited Cloth "Blackberry" (2 Yards) $40www.yourautotrim.com
Pro Foam and Fabric Spray Adhesive $7www.yourautotrim.com
(8X) Stainless Steel Jumbo Drop In Holder
$60​
www.casinosupply.com
T-10B Java Table Base for Round Table Tops
$200​
https://www.unfinishedfurnitureofwilmington.com/
Raised Rail Diffuser
$144​
https://www.chanmanpokertables.com/
T-nuts and Bolts
$53​
www.mcmastercarr.com
3/4" 2x2 Plywood for Base
$13​
Lowes
Staining/Poly Materials
$117​
Home Depot/Lowes
(3X) Led Strip Lights Battery Powered
$39​
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07QK45LZZ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Step 1: Design
I am a mechanical designer, so I used my CAD program to build my poker table idea in 3D and then layout in 2D with some dimension to follow. I wanted to have a raised rail because I really like the suited diffusers @T_Chan offers. I did not want to go too tall with the raised rail because of comfort, so I went with 3/4" tall. I was originally going to just have the raised suited diffusers with a black background, but I did a design change in the middle of the build (not reflected in the drawing) and added lights. I just could not pass up trying to add lights since it looks so nice on other people builds on this forum.

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Step 2: The Pedestal
I was debating back and forth on foldable legs for portability vs a pedestal and I am glad I went with the pedestal; it just gives a professional permanent feel. We will not be moving the table but if we do, I designed it so we can unbolt the table top off with ease using t-nuts. I found this online at Unfinished Furniture of Wilmington. I think worth the extra cost. All I had to do was stain/poly it.

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Step 3 – Cutting the Plywood
Luckily, I was able to find 5’x5’ plywood about 45min from me. I definitely was not going to join 2 pieces of plywood together with my lack of woodworking skills. I put the 3 sheets together and clamped them so I can get a perfect round cut of 60” on all three sheets. I drilled a center hole through all three so they can all line up and have the same center point.

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  • I found this router at Lowes on sale. It was perfect for what I needed it for. I know routers can be expensive and I will probably only use it to make tables. Make sure if you go with a router you get a plunge base. I used a 1/2" router bit for all the cuts
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  • I bought the Milescraft CircleGuideKit (Router Jig, $48) to make the circles cuts but I did have to make my own jig to be able to cut the 60” diameter and another diameter since the Milescraft jig only goes to 52” diameter. I definitely recommend the for all other cuts 52” diameter for ease and accuracy.
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  • I made rookie mistake by cutting this in my garage, the saw dust got everywhere and on everything. I moved the operation outside to finish cutting the other pieces out.
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Step 4 – Cup Holder Cuts
Cutting out the holes for the cup holders in the track. I used a 3-1/2” hole saw. I actually like what other people did with cup holders in the rail but this being my first build that seemed a little aggressive this time around.

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To Be Continued.....ran the limit on posting pics in one post.
 
Step 5 – Rail padding and Vinyl
Sprayed the foam adhesive on the top portion of the rail and laid it on the foam. I cut the outside leaving about 1-1/4” overhang. I cut the inner circle leave about 1/2” overhang.

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  • The vinyl comes in 61” width and however long you want. It is very difficult to get the vinyl to stretch around the 2 sides. Searching through the forum there is some good info on what to do to get the vinyl to stretch. First you need to staple each end. Then start making cuts to the center of the vinyl so that you can stretch it over the other two sides.
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  • You will have to make more cuts than shown.
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  • I am pretty happy with the way it came out.
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  • I did have some bunching issues in one spot, maybe someone can give me ideas on how to avoid this in the future.
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Step 6 – Playing Surface
I forgot to take some pictures the assembly of the playing surface but its pretty simple. Spray adhesive on the wood playing surface, lay it on the 1/4" foam, I cut the excessive off flush tot eh wood. Stapled the suited speed cloth around the playing surface. Picture shown are the round playing surface sitting in the base. My goal was to get the playing surface as close to flush/even with the track. Came pretty close.

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Step 7 – Raised Rail
I bought the suited diffuser from @T_Chan . These are really nice and add that extra pop to the table. FYI, the way you order the suited diffusers is give them the height of the raised rail (in my case 3/4”) and they will be taller, mine came in at 7/8”. The reason for this is the way you install them. I cut a 3/32” groove with the router around the track and the suited diffuser and plastic cracked ice backing will sit in this groove. The rail will rest on top of it so it wont come out.

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  • My original design I was going to have wood backing and stain the inner portion black
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  • A lot of people on the forum used lights behind the diffusers and it looks very cool. I thought it might be a little too difficult for me to do but I gave it a try and switched up the design a little bit, so happy I did. Having lights is so nice. The way I installed the lights might not be the best way but it the best I could do with the wood I had left and they way the table design was already built.
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Step 8 – Decorative Nails
I think adding the decorative nails around the outside edge give it that executive feel and extra pop. Very easy to install and get the correct spacing using a quick nailer.

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While this is a beautiful table, I have always been a skeptic regarding round tables for the reason that elbow room and amount of people that can sit at it....

Anyone else share this concern?
 
Also, I am very jealous of your handy ability, and I DO agree building something yourself is more meaningful than buying it. However adding up your costs to nearly $1000 and hours of labour, travel to stores/waiting for items to arrive via mail etc., I guess this is a project for people who have the tools, ability, time, and space to create such a masterpiece.

In hindsight, would you go back and order this table from a builder even if the cost was a bit more? @Bredog
 
Also, I am very jealous of your handy ability, and I DO agree building something yourself is more meaningful than buying it. However adding up your costs to nearly $1000 and hours of labour, travel to stores/waiting for items to arrive via mail etc., I guess this is a project for people who have the tools, ability, time, and space to create such a masterpiece.

In hindsight, would you go back and order this table from a builder even if the cost was a bit more? @Bredog
Great question. This was all about building one myself using ideas from what I seen other people used on this site. This table is for a friends house that only a round would fit. If I was able to host games and had a space to do it I might buy one from Chanman or BBO. I been looking at those for a while, however those are much more expensive. I was pushing $1,000 with this build (not including tools) but its seems I would have to spend closer to 2k+ for a 60" round.
 
While this is a beautiful table, I have always been a skeptic regarding round tables for the reason that elbow room and amount of people that can sit at it....

Anyone else share this concern?
If the game is self deal, 60 inch round is awesome. We played on a 60 inch round table for years (2-4 times a week) with no issues. We moved to a oval table when we started using a dedicated dealer.

BTW, the table is bueatiful. The workmanship is really impressive!
 
While this is a beautiful table, I have always been a skeptic regarding round tables for the reason that elbow room and amount of people that can sit at it....

Anyone else share this concern?
Seconding the above. Round table is by far the preferred option for self-dealt games.

In my experience getting 8 guys around a 54" is doable with minimal elbow bumping, but if the player pool features more than a couple fat guys then 60" is preferable.
 
While this is a beautiful table, I have always been a skeptic regarding round tables for the reason that elbow room and amount of people that can sit at it....

Anyone else share this concern?
It just depends on how many people you need to seat. Maximum seating for a round table is 8, since that is the max comfortable at 60", and round tables over 60" are a little impractical because reaching the center becomes difficult. If we have 7 or less I will always use my 58" round over any other table. Everyone sees everyone equally and everyone can deal easily from every seat.
 
Congratulations! A beautiful table. I love following these table build threads. I’m awed at that mad skills that some people on this forum possess!
 
Great work! I've built a table or two in my day and am always amazed at the mad craft carpentry skills in the community.
 
Jesus tits that's tight! Not a racetrack fan but the diffuser and lights add a super nice touch.
 
I'm in process of building a 60" round table as well. Does anyone have thoughts on the below two base options X vs disk? The X base is a lot cheaper, but I'm not sure about stability. X base is 30"x30" and disk base is 30" diameter. Thanks!

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