Thinnest quality print at home labels (1 Viewer)

JeepologyOffroad

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Title says it all. Looking to create a cash and a tourney set out of 2k+ faux clays. I hear Gear is the best, but with something cheap like faux clays I’d prefer to keep it budget and print at home. Any help is appreciated.
 
I assume you're not planning on milling due to the title "thinnest"?
 
I did use stock onlinelabels.com for the print at home, they have all kinds of materials and sizes. However, here is my cautionary tale about home printing.

https://www.pokerchipforum.com/thre...d-perils-of-cheap-chipping.29479/#post-546125

Basically home printers, no matter how well you calibrate are subject to at least 1/8" of possible shifts. Fine for most home printing applications, but troublesome for this purpose. A 12% shift in a 1" inlay is a big deal unless you have a very tolerant design. (As in plenty of whitespace on the outside.)

My design couldn't tolerate that, so I ended up doing full sheet labels and hand punching which was a ton of handwork.

I am happy with the final product for ABS, but it was way more work than I bargained for.
 
There's a lot of truth to that. I know I threw a lot of labels away because they were way off. To fix this I printed all of my labels on PDF and utilized my work hours to sit there and punch them all out with a fiskars 1" punch. Then I needed smaller sizes and upgraded to my wife's cricut for the smaller and larger cuts. I'm shopping for commercial sized cutters/printers now I'm so into it.
 
I assume you're not planning on milling due to the title "thinnest"?
Just thinking through a backup plan. My buddy has a small cnc router so hopefully that makes it easier.
I did use stock onlinelabels.com for the print at home, they have all kinds of materials and sizes. However, here is my cautionary tale about home printing.

https://www.pokerchipforum.com/thre...d-perils-of-cheap-chipping.29479/#post-546125

Basically home printers, no matter how well you calibrate are subject to at least 1/8" of possible shifts. Fine for most home printing applications, but troublesome for this purpose. A 12% shift in a 1" inlay is a big deal unless you have a very tolerant design. (As in plenty of whitespace on the outside.)

My design couldn't tolerate that, so I ended up doing full sheet labels and hand punching which was a ton of handwork.

I am happy with the final product for ABS, but it was way more work than I bargained for.
Noted. Punch it is. Appreciate the heads up.
 
So now that punching 2k+ of these is on my plate - is there a go to for entire blank sheets?
 
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I would recommend this over any other punch. Much easier to line up and on your hands. Hobby Lobby has these for $7 after a coupon. Buy a few of them because they do go full after a while and there’s really no good way to sharpen them. Plus you want a sharp cut or the label will look like crap.
 
So now that punching 2k+ of these is on my plate - is there a go to for entire blank sheets?

So you are probably looking at .80/sheet for your quantity at onlinelabels.com. You probably should get something waterproof just to avoid print transfer to oily hands.

However, I know those materialis aren't the thinnest.
 
Buy a few of them because they do go full after a while and there’s really no good way to sharpen them. Plus you want a sharp cut or the label will look like crap.

I have heard that you can keep these punches sharp by using repeatedly punching out using sheets of aluminum foil.
 
Your best bet is talking to Gear. His cheapest labels are thin and about 20 bucks per rack. Way better than embarking on an R&D project and potentially having issues with adhesion or color fading/transfer.
 
Your best bet is talking to Gear. His cheapest labels are thin and about 20 bucks per rack. Way better than embarking on an R&D project and potentially having issues with adhesion or color fading/transfer.

Yeah you’re probably right. Maybe I can convince myself to spend the coin despite these being faux clays.
 
I’ve never actually handled faux clay chips myself, but if I like em as much as it sounds like I will when they arrive then it’s a strong possibility I’ll keep it simple and go with Gear.
 
Have gear send you sample labels of whatever his thinnest are so you can put a few on and see if you need to mill a recess or they will work without.

I know @Captn_All_In labeled without milling and said they worked without spinners but your mileage may vary.

Milling can be done, and if you can do a cnc jig and batch them out quickly that’s a really good bet.

If you want, I’ll send you some of my reds to play with before you decide what to do.

Are white and red still available here?
http://www.ultimatepokersupplies.co...ker-Chips-10g-Sold-in-packs-of-25-p-1556.html
 
I had no issues using / printing Avery round labels to over-label mint Detroit Jack $1s chips. Whenever the print job got off alignment, I just reprinted another full sheet. 700 labels for something like $12. And if you want/need a gloss finish w added protection, you can use a spray can of Rust-Oleum clear-coat for $4. Spray after ink dries then wait for labels to fully dry before applying to chips...less than hour.
https://www.pokerchipforum.com/threads/label-over-jack-1s.41154/
 
That's funny. I was actually going to post a thread for opinions on denominations on a split of these between a cash and tourney set. Was leaning towards a black dollar. Need to find some more whites to dye
 

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