Advice on upgrading my custom poker table (2 Viewers)

JC117

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[EDIT]: Some matters have been resolved!

Hi everyone! I’m somewhat new to the forum - pleased to be here!!

Two years ago I built my first poker table, way before I found this amazing forum. It was planned to be one of the centerpieces of my apartment, next to a floor-to-ceiling glass balcony and a very large art piece, therefore aesthetics played a bigger role on the design than poker-focused playability (that's why I added a racetrack, in-table cupholders, etc., see end of the post for more on this). Also, I use it not only for poker, but for many other board games, so there were other considerations. The table will always sit at most 6 people. I attach photos of the table.

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Now I want to upgrade it with some features, and I would love to hear your opinions! The points are in order of importance to me. Also, feel free to give ideas independently of how complicated they would be to implement, I am very comfortable with building stuff, either hardware or electronics (I built this table, and I am also a mechanical & electrical engineer). Also general feedback on the table is very much appreciated!
  • Shuffle tech position: I am installing an ST-1000 for all card games played (Poker, Uno, Jass, etc.). The dealer (me) will always be seated in either position 1 or 2 (see images). Where would you position the ST-1000 (see images)? Please consider aesthetic reasons and gameplay. If the ST-1000 would be placed directly in front of me, it would be easier to mount (due to the flush mount kit), but I would have to cover the top of the ST-1000 (lid, flush mount, etc.) in the same fabric as the speed cloth or laminate/wood to simulate the playing surface such that I could play my chips/cards/etc right on top of the lid when closed. If I mount it in front of the cupholder, there is not enough space to use the flush mount kit, so I would need to design a custom mount, which would be more complicated. What do you think?
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  • [SOLVED] Raised rail: Currently I have black faux leather. Should I upgrade to real leather? All/most rails I have seen (on PCF or elsewhere) use faux leather and I am not sure why. Is faux leather easier to clean? More durable? Is it the price? Why would you choose faux leather over genuine leather Most people agree it's mainly: leather is significantly more expensive, vinyl is much easier to handle.

  • [SOLVED] Racetrack: I have a racetrack on my table and plan to keep it. Currently, I have black faux wood (laminated particleboard). Should I upgrade it to real wood? As in the raised rail lining, all racetracks I have seen are made out of some sort of laminate and not real wood. Why is this? Durability? Price? If I upgrade it, I would keep the black theme and go for ebony wood. I know, I know. People here seem to hate racetracks, read the end of the post for my reasons to have it. Almost same reasons for above: most people agree it's mainly cost and labor.

  • [SOLVED]: Power access: Currently, I always need to have a cable running from the wall to the table, to light up the LED light channel. I don't like the cable. Now that I am adding the ST1000 and the wireless chargers, I am wondering if I should either add to the table a rechargeable power station (like these ones for camping: https://www.cnet.com/home/energy-and-utilities/best-portable-power-stations/) and run everything from there. Another idea would be to open an electric socket in the floor that sits directly below the poker base, and open a hole in the table base for a hidden power strip. Anyone has done something similar? Any ideas? A camping battery underneath the table does the job.

  • [SOLVED]: Speed cloth: I am quite happy about the design of my speed cloth, but the betting line is printed in a yellow + brown gradient to simulate a golden print. I would love it if it would be printed in reflective/metallic golden. Is it actually possible to print metallic colors on speed cloth? No. SSC & gaming suede coloring is done by dye sublimation, so metallic foil cannot be done. The alternative, vinyl transfer would peel off with time.

I know it’s quite a read, so thanks if you made it all the way here! Really excited to hear your thoughts.

Thanks everyone!


Note: I decided to have a racetrack, as the poker table is one of the centerpieces of my place. The table just looks much more gorgeous with the racetrack than without it. Also, the table is not only used for playing poker, but many board games, and the hard surface makes sense for other type of games. I decided to have the cupholders on the table rather than on side carts for a minimalist approach. They are on the racetrack rather than on the rail because it looks much more aesthetically pleasing. Thanks again!
 
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I'll start by saying that your table looks spectacular. I also built my table with a racetrack that sits 8 players, with a raised rail with LED COB lighting behind a card suited diffuser. I am in the process of removing the racetrack, and building a new rail wide enough to put the jumbo cup holders on the rail. I purchased the trim rings for under the vinyl so the cup holders will be flush with the top of the rail, and not be sunken. Chanman tables are done this way, and I purchased the trim rings from him for the rail base.
1) Use a stretchable whisper type smooth vinyl to wrap the rail over HD density foam I use 1.5" foam, but once the vinyl is stretched over the foam, it condenses it to about 1". Real leather is more rigged, and will be difficult to get nice smooth stretch over the contours. It is also very difficult to get such a large piece of leather to use as a 1 piece rail covering.
2) If you are keeping the racetrack, then the best place for the shuffletech is on the playing surface, which will be flush with the mount, and not impede the play.
3) When I build my poker room, I installed an air plus subfloor, and ran a HD extension cord from the wall receptacle under the subfloor plastic track on the grooves, and brought the cord up under one end of the table. I have access to the rail lights, and any other electrical item required. I simply plug in the cord to the cord into the receptacle when I'm using the table.

I'm looking forward to your finished project, do I hope that you share it with us.
 
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I'll start by saying that your table looks spectacular.
Thanks! I put a lot of effort and thought into the table. Happy to see it paid off!

I also built my table with a racetrack that sits 8 players, with a raised rail with LED COB lighting behind a card suited diffuser. I am in the process of removing the racetrack, and building a new rail wide enough to put the jumbo cup holders on the rail. I purchased the trim rings for under the vinyl so the cup holders will be flush with the top of the rail, and not be sunken. Chanman tables are done this way, and I purchased the trim rings from him for the rail base.
Why did you decide to go for COB vs SMD? Right now I have SMD, should I move to COB? For the racetrack, why did you decide to remove it?

1) Use a stretchable whisper type smooth vinyl to wrap the rail over HD density foam I use 1.5" foam, but once the vinyl is stretched over the foam, it condenses it to about 1". Real leather is more rigged, and will be difficult to get nice smooth stretch over the contours. It is also very difficult to get such a large piece of leather to use as a 1 piece rail covering.
Good points!

2) If you are keeping the racetrack, then the best place for the shuffletech is on the playing surface, which will be flush with the mount, and not impede the play.
In both cases, the shuffle tech would be flush on the playing surface, and be covered in playing materials such that it doesn't impede the play. The questions is more about whether it is better to have it immediately in front of me (the dealer), which would be easier to mount, or to my left/right which would be more difficult to mount.

3) When I build my poker room, I installed an air plus subfloor, and ran a HD extension cord from the wall receptacle under the subfloor plastic track on the grooves, and brought the cord up under one end of the table. I have access to the rail lights, and any other electrical item required. I simply plug in the cord to the cord into the receptacle when I'm using the table.

I'm looking forward to your finished project, do I hope that you share it with us.
Makes sense! The way you did it would be my ideal implementation. Do you have some photos of your setup? I have already installed laminated floor though, which would require to remove it and make a new electric installation under the floor.

I will definitely post my final build here once I'm done!

Thanks!
 
Thanks! I put a lot of effort and thought into the table. Happy to see it paid off!


Why did you decide to go for COB vs SMD? Right now I have SMD, should I move to COB? For the racetrack, why did you decide to remove it?


Good points!


In both cases, the shuffle tech would be flush on the playing surface, and be covered in playing materials such that it doesn't impede the play. The questions is more about whether it is better to have it immediately in front of me (the dealer), which would be easier to mount, or to my left/right which would be more difficult to mount.


Makes sense! The way you did it would be my ideal implementation. Do you have some photos of your setup? I have already installed laminated floor though, which would require to remove it and make a new electric installation under the floor.

I will definitely post my final build here once I'm done!

Thanks!
I don't have a before pic, but this is the subfloor panels I used. Notice the gaps, that is where I ran the extension cord through, then came up in the floor on the inside portion of the table. The extension cord is run from under the floor, close to a receptacle so I can plug it in when I want power to the table. If I ever redo the wall with the receptacle, I can run the extension cord wires inside the receptacle box, and have it on a light switch to turn the power on.
 

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