Toms Poker Club CPC Cash Game Set (2 Viewers)

[MajorTom]

Hi everyone and greetings to all Pokerchip Enthusiasts,
I have plans for a CPC cash game set I would like to share with you.
Please let me know what you think about it.
There are two designs. The first is simpler, and therefore also significantly cheaper to buy.
The second somewhat more complex (also better/nicer?)
Right now at the start I am thinking about the color scheme and the spots.
I have already decided on the basic colors for $1, $5, $25 and $100:
Blue, red, green, black. One could consider which blue, red, green.
I know you don't need $25 AND $20. But I like the yellow in the Aurora Star set, for example, which I first noticed in a YT video by Chris Manzoni. Thank you Chris for your videos! A good inspiration. So why not have both $25 and $20?
The inlays should be black. The final layout is still open. I tend towards a rather simple look like the poker chips in the Aria where I have played a lot.
Which mold? I do not know yet, so I planned just with the plain mold. With 1 inch inlay it is not so bad, is it?
Which version do you like better? What could be done better?
Both praise and harsh criticism are welcome.

 

[warma]

Quick thoughts:

• Complex spot patterns aren’t necessarily nicer- they can quickly get messy.
• Buying both a $20 and $25 would be a waste- don’t get paralyzed by a decision, pick one and go.
• The xD18 spots are tricky- take a look at the edges of other xD18 patterns and xD16 patterns, see if you think the difference is really worth the upgrade.

Observations:

• I like the 5¢ through $5 in both.
• I find there are few green chips worth the money, but I’m biased against green- I’d cut the $25 and go with $20, especially if you like it.
• CPC yellows are tricky and the design tool is a bit weak with the yellows- get color samples, spend some time looking a photos here of yellow CPC chips to understand what you’re getting.
• The spots on the TPC1 yellow $20 seem off, not sure why.
• I think you have something.

 

[MajorTom]

Hi warma,
Many thanks for your response, very helpful.
I'll have a closer look to those xD18 patterns, but I did not find xD16 in the Poker Chip Design Tool. I just found xDS18+ or xDS316+, both with two stripes and the base color in between.
I ordered sample sets from CPC, I am still waiting for them to be delivered.
Regarding the spots on the TPC1 yellow $20 I will attach a new file. I cannot see that they are off.
Maybe I should have inserted the full image instead of just thumbnails.
Sorry, I do not want to spam the forum.
Just changed the original post.

 

[improviseallday]

Some scattered thoughts:

- I like the spot progression for the chips. Consider going 314 for 5c and 614 for $100. That way you have 314/314/414/414/614/614. If you go D18, consider 3D18/3D18/4D18/4D18/6D18/6D18. (I assume you only have one of $20/$25 in play).
- The colors don't feel cohesive to me. Feels like you designed each chip individually. Not sure what to do here... let me think about possible solutions.
- The inlay needs a bit of work- padding, dollar sign, bolding (but I think you said that's a work in progress)
- Overall I like the classic chip colors that you picked, I think this is a good foundation. Just needs some polish for the details.

 

[Rhodeman77]

Nothing wrong with having both a $20 and $25. Use the $20! As the top chip in games that use an frac and use the $25 in games $1/1 and above.

I have both in one of my sets.

The d14 spots are a lot cheaper than the d18 if you want to add extra spot colors.

No a big fan of repeating the same spot pattern on the $1 & $5. Not an issue with the $20 & $25 since they won’t be in play at the same time.

 

[GetUrShineBox]

I agree with @warma on most of what he said.
I like the top set of chips over the bottom. More complex and expensive doesn’t always mean better.
I don’t like the repeating spot pattern on the $1 and $5.
My first thought is you have way too many denominations so can you please tell us what stakes you play? What are the blinds? What is the average initial buy in for each player? How many players? Do you want this set to handle 5c/10c game and also a $1/$2 game? Throughout the night how much is usually on the table after people lose and buy more chips? This will help figure out how much of a “bank” you need and will help in these decisions.

 

[warma]

Hi warma,
Many thanks for your response, very helpful.
I'll have a closer look to those xD18 patterns, but I did not find xD16 in the Poker Chip Design Tool. I just found xDS18+ or xDS316+, both with two stripes and the base color in between.

My bad… I misremembered. (I did a 3TA316 set with one of the end colors being the base color - but the spots are slightly offset.) You could alternatively go xD14

 

[SteveEH]

I like the 1/4 inch spots and the 20 vs. 25.

I'd like to see a different spot pattern on the 5 without canary (which is used on the 20). How about a 3D14 with some lavender and white/arc yellow?

Have you considered some 1/2 or 1/6 mixed into the spot progression?

Sets with 5c and $100 denominations don't compute in my mind.

 

[Jasap47]

My humble thoughts: Go with a solid frac, then move all the spot patterns down.
I like the top row better as well. It seems like budget might be a concern, as there are no dayglo spots in the whole lot.
If dont mind dayglo spots , put dayglo pink on the .25 cent, dayglo yellow on the $5, and id use dayglo tiger on the $25.
My customs have the 1 inch label on a mold, no issues.
Ty for your time.

 

[warma]

Regarding the spots on the TPC1 yellow $20 I will attach a new file. I cannot see that they are off.
Maybe I should have inserted the full image instead of just thumbnails.

Your file is correct… what I meant to say was that the yellows in the design tool don’t accurately represent the yellows that CPC produces. I purchased a DG yellow base and found it much lighter than expected. Most people love the TRK and Paulson yellows, but the CPC yellows are different. You’ll see when you get your samples- I just don’t want you falling in love with a Paulson yellow and expecting the CPC yellow to be the same.

Here’s a quick look: left to right are CPC yellow, CPC canary, TRK yellow, CPC DG yellow. Most people want the TRK yellow, but you can’t get it with CPC.

(Having said that, the CPC yellows can look great if used properly.)

Same light… on the left, I think the DG yellow works and the canary and DG Saturn don’t. On the right, I like the yellow NRPY and the canary on the Club, but the DG yellow on the California Gold didn’t turn out the way I wanted (too light) and has bothered me since it arrived.

 

[MajorTom]

Some scattered thoughts:

- I like the spot progression for the chips. Consider going 314 for 5c and 614 for $100. That way you have 314/314/414/414/614/614. If you go D18, consider 3D18/3D18/4D18/4D18/6D18/6D18. (I assume you only have one of $20/$25 in play).

I will keep that in mind. The reason why I chose 814 for the $100 is that it reminds me somehow of the real Aria $100 chip.

- The colors don't feel cohesive to me. Feels like you designed each chip individually. Not sure what to do here... let me think about possible solutions.

ok, I think I understand. I am not sure, maybe change the 5¢ and 25¢?

- The inlay needs a bit of work- padding, dollar sign, bolding (but I think you said that's a work in progress)

absolutely, just a rough draft

- Overall I like the classic chip colors that you picked, I think this is a good foundation. Just needs some polish for the details.

Thank you improviseallday!

 

[MajorTom]

Nothing wrong with having both a $20 and $25. Use the $20! As the top chip in games that use an frac and use the $25 in games $1/1 and above.

yes, that´s what I thought.

I have both in one of my sets.

nice set! the Club House in the tree, I like that!

The d14 spots are a lot cheaper than the d18 if you want to add extra spot colors.

ok, but I cannot do a 6D14, but maybe a 4D14 is good

No a big fan of repeating the same spot pattern on the $1 & $5. Not an issue with the $20 & $25 since they won’t be in play at the same time.

I`ll keep that in mind, thank you, Rhodeman77!

View attachment 1177278

 

[MajorTom]

I agree with @warma on most of what he said.
I like the top set of chips over the bottom. More complex and expensive doesn’t always mean better.

very good, so I would not have to spend so much money

I don’t like the repeating spot pattern on the $1 and $5.

That`s what Rhodeman77 said. I have to think about it.

My first thought is you have way too many denominations so can you please tell us what stakes you play? What are the blinds? What is the average initial buy in for each player? How many players? Do you want this set to handle 5c/10c game and also a $1/$2 game? Throughout the night how much is usually on the table after people lose and buy more chips? This will help figure out how much of a “bank” you need and will help in these decisions.

Yes, I thought about it...
My brother is our host, but I want to have my own pokerroom and become a host too.
We usually play .25/.50 with a max buy-in of 100 (Euros). Most players go in for 50, but we see many rebuys.
For this kind of game I think .25, 1, 5 and a few 25 would be enough. We would not need 100.
But who knows if we go for higher stakes? Inflation in the Euro-currency-zone ? I just would like to be prepared for games with blind of up to 1/2 as well.
So why .5? Just in case we or my sons (they are students and have their own homegames sometimes I get invited) want to play micro stakes.
That´s the reason for so many denominations.
But you are right, I could do also one set for higher (or normal) stakes and another for micro....
Thank you, GetUrShineBox!

 

[MajorTom]

I like the 1/4 inch spots and the 20 vs. 25.

thank you

I'd like to see a different spot pattern on the 5 without canary (which is used on the 20). How about a 3D14 with some lavender and white/arc yellow?

wow, nice combination, I have to consider this

Have you considered some 1/2 or 1/6 mixed into the spot progression?

oops, not sure if I understand what that means

Sets with 5c and $100 denominations don't compute in my mind.

You are right, not all chips in just one game, but one set for all stakes from micro (my student sons) up to 1/2 (we are playing now .25/.50 most of the times)
I know I could do just one set for one game.

Thank you, SteveEH!

 

[SteveEH]

What I meant was using more than just 1/4" spot patterns. I used a combo of 1/2 and 1/4 inch:

 

[MajorTom]

My humble thoughts: Go with a solid frac, then move all the spot patterns down.

ok, I think it should look like this:

I like the top row better as well. It seems like budget might be a concern, as there are no dayglo spots in the whole lot.

budget is not limited, I am willing to spend money

If dont mind dayglo spots , put dayglo pink on the .25 cent, dayglo yellow on the $5, and id use dayglo tiger on the $25.

interesting, my wife recommended dayglo as well, whereas I did not chose dayglo colors. I thought they might look like neon colors or so. Well, I still wait for my samples from CPC. Here come the dayglo spots:

I think I like it.

My customs have the 1 inch label on a mold, no issues.
Ty for your time.

Thank you, Jasap47!

 

[MajorTom]

What I meant was using more than just 1/4" spot patterns. I used a combo of 1/2 and 1/4 inch:

View attachment 1177329

now I understand, thank you! nice chips and I like the circle square mold!

 

[MajorTom]

Your file is correct… what I meant to say was that the yellows in the design tool don’t accurately represent the yellows that CPC produces. I purchased a DG yellow base and found it much lighter than expected. Most people love the TRK and Paulson yellows, but the CPC yellows are different. You’ll see when you get your samples- I just don’t want you falling in love with a Paulson yellow and expecting the CPC yellow to be the same.

Here’s a quick look: left to right are CPC yellow, CPC canary, TRK yellow, CPC DG yellow. Most people want the TRK yellow, but you can’t get it with CPC.
View attachment 1177297
(Having said that, the CPC yellows can look great if used properly.)

View attachment 1177299
Same light… on the left, I think the DG yellow works and the canary and DG Saturn don’t. On the right, I like the yellow NRPY and the canary on the Club, but the DG yellow on the California Gold didn’t turn out the way I wanted (too light) and has bothered me since it arrived.

thanks for these detailed informations. I won´t order until I got my samples from CPC.
And I think you are the only one bothered bythe DG yellow on the California Gold. I like it, are there pictures of the whole set in the forum?

 

[allforcharity]

You'll be spending way more than you have to if you are contemplating 2 sets of cash to cover micro.

Just expand one set to cover all your bank needs. Your bottom rack could be 0.05. Your top rack can be 80x 25 and 20x 100. 2-3 racks each for your workhorse chips in the middle keeps the whole thing to 800-1000, around $3000 if you keep your spot levels reasonable.

 

[MajorTom]

You'll be spending way more than you have to if you are contemplating 2 sets of cash to cover micro.

Just expand one set to cover all your bank needs. Your bottom rack could be 0.05. Your top rack can be 80x 25 and 20x 100. 2-3 racks each for your workhorse chips in the middle keeps the whole thing to 800-1000, around $3000 if you keep your spot levels reasonable.

Yes, that´s exactly what I had in mind: one custom set for all games (or multiple stakes as I read in another thread): from micro 0.05/0.10 over small 0.25/0.50 to 0.50/1 or maybe 1/2 which would be maximum for my homegame.
My breakdown would be something like
100 (better 200 I think) x 0.05
200 x 0.25
300 x 1 (do I want 400?)
300 x 5 (more $5 chips?)
100 (or 200) x 20 (I tend to order both $20 AND $25, but use only one denomination in one game and not mix them in one game)
80 (or 160) x 25
20 (or 40) x 100
That´s a minimum of 1,000 chips (if I decide to have either $20 or $25) or 1,100 chips (if I chose both $20 and $25) or a maximum of 1,400 (or up to 1,600 if I go for 400 x 1 and 400 x 5)
Could become quite a huge set
Thanks for your advice, allforcharity!

 

[allforcharity]

Yes, that´s exactly what I had in mind: one custom set for all games (or multiple stakes as I read in another thread): from micro 0.05/0.10 over small 0.25/0.50 to 0.50/1 or maybe 1/2 which would be maximum for my homegame.
My breakdown would be something like
100 (better 200 I think) x 0.05
200 x 0.25
300 x 1 (do I want 400?)
300 x 5 (more $5 chips?)
100 (or 200) x 20 (I tend to order both $20 AND $25, but use only one denomination in one game and not mix them in one game)
80 (or 160) x 25
20 (or 40) x 100
That´s a minimum of 1,000 chips (if I decide to have either $20 or $25) or 1,100 chips (if I chose both $20 and $25) or a maximum of 1,400 (or up to 1,600 if I go for 400 x 1 and 400 x 5)
Could become quite a huge set
Thanks for your advice, allforcharity!

Personally I would keep closer to the 1000 chips for cash only.

If you want more chips, design a separate tournament set. That way you have maximum flexibility.

 

[GetUrShineBox]

I would go 900 or 1000 chips
100 - 0.05
120 - 0.25
200 or 300 - $1
300 - $5
80 - $20
80 - $25
20 - $100

You will most likely never use $100’s in your stakes unless it becomes a deep $1/$2 game. You will most likely not even use 80 $20’s or $25’s, you don’t need more than 80 of those.

300 - $5’s is $1500
80 - $25’s is $2000
20 - $100’s is $2000
So the only way you should consider getting more than 80 $20’s or $25’s is if you plan on having over $5500 on the table.

 

[MajorTom]

Personally I would keep closer to the 1000 chips for cash only.

If you want more chips, design a separate tournament set. That way you have maximum flexibility.

I`ll keep that in mind, thanks

 

[MajorTom]

I would go 900 or 1000 chips
100 - 0.05
120 - 0.25
200 or 300 - $1
300 - $5
80 - $20
80 - $25
20 - $100

You will most likely never use $100’s in your stakes unless it becomes a deep $1/$2 game. You will most likely not even use 80 $20’s or $25’s, you don’t need more than 80 of those.

300 - $5’s is $1500
80 - $25’s is $2000
20 - $100’s is $2000
So the only way you should consider getting more than 80 $20’s or $25’s is if you plan on having over $5500 on the table.

sounds reasonable, I will reconsider the breakdown, thank you

 

[warma]

If you’re getting $20s and $25s, then you’re not likely to need those $100s. That’s $6,000 from those three chips alone, plus the $1,500 from the fives. That’s a really big serious game that most people will never play.

 

[MajorTom]

If you’re getting $20s and $25s, then you’re not likely to need those $100s. That’s $6,000 from those three chips alone, plus the $1,500 from the fives. That’s a really big serious game that most people will never play.

That`s right, but I am still not sure if I am going to order both $20 AND $25, still thinking about itand I would not use both in one game, could be just a variation

 

[warma]

That`s right, but I am still not sure if I am going to order both $20 AND $25, still thinking about itand I would not use both in one game, could be just a variation

Just saying, if you do order $20 and $25 (I’ve advised against it as wasteful), I doubt you’ll need the $100. Even so, it’s unlikely you’ll ever need the $100 chips.

You’re playing 25¢/50¢ now- $1/$2 is a huge jump. $1/$2 a totally different game for folks playing 25¢/50¢, a real change from friendly poker to serious cash game, and will require a lot of folks to go with you. I know we all think we’ll get there (even I have), but I think that’s more romance and really not practical.

Frankly, if you’re playing $1/$2 regularly, you’ll have the disposable income to buy a second set, one that you’ll be happy to buy because you’ll have a better sense of your chip design aesthetic and have become a chipper looking for an excuse.

 

[SteveEH]

we all think we’ll get there (even I have), but I think that’s more romance and really not practical.

This was me in the poker boom. Then my school friends stopped coming to my game when I started inviting rando degens.

 

[MajorTom]

Just saying, if you do order $20 and $25 (I’ve advised against it as wasteful), I doubt you’ll need the $100. Even so, it’s unlikely you’ll ever need the $100 chips.

You are probably right, maybe I just want to have many chips in one set (crazy I know, but nothing ordered yet, I`ll consider your advice, thanks alot)

You’re playing 25¢/50¢ now- $1/$2 is a huge jump. $1/$2 a totally different game for folks playing 25¢/50¢, a real change from friendly poker to serious cash game, and will require a lot of folks to go with you. I know we all think we’ll get there (even I have), but I think that’s more romance and really not practical.

Totally agree, $1/$2 would be like a small stake Casino cash game. Nowadays I could imagine to do a 50¢/$1 cash game, that would be big enough right now.
But who knows? When I say "$" I mean "€" because I live in Germany and I am not so sure if we won`t get more inflation in our Euro currency zone. Maybe in 5 or 10 years we play €2/€5 and think it is normal? Ok, this is exaggerated, I get your point.

Frankly, if you’re playing $1/$2 regularly, you’ll have the disposable income to buy a second set, one that you’ll be happy to buy because you’ll have a better sense of your chip design aesthetic and have become a chipper looking for an excuse.

Again you are right. I could buy a second set, but at this moment I am planning my (first) dream set. Nothing ordered yet and I will consider what you told me.
Anyway this is a good discussion and what I learned so far is not to buy too many chips for just one set. Better buy a second set and maybe go on.... collecting, but also play Poker.
I am looking forward to meeting some of our forum members from Germany. They promised to invite me soon. I am curious what they will tell me about collecting pokerchips.
Again thank you for your advice, warma, I appreciate it alot!

 

[warma]

Yeah, all food for thought. We’re all just passing along our knowledge. It’s hard to know how to balance everything and what the perfect answer it. But it’s a fun adventure!

You know… you can also get a dedicated micro set from Tina or another Alibaba vendor for you/your sons…

Sorry about the $/€ mixup. I was in a few threads and mixed you up. Apologies.