The Heraldry Room - First Custom Set - Input Requested (1 Viewer)

crussader

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It's finally time for my first custom set. Being new to the process, I am sure I could use some help along the way.

All opinions welcomed. I have thick skin, so feel free to flame away when necessary.

THEME

Heraldry (obviously), the Age of Chivalry, Arthur and his Knights, Jousting, etc, etc


CONFIGURATION

Cash game set to support games from 1/2NL to 5/10NL


MOLD SELECTION

I am currently leaning toward the H-Mold for two reasons.

1) Historical - I really like the fact that the mold being used is the exact same one that has been used to make chips for mainstream Vegas casinos.

2) Monogram - It's convenient that the "H" ties in to Heraldry and Houston


I am also considering the Jockey Mold because I think it is the best looking mold available, and the closest thing to my beloved Paulsons.


CHIP DESIGN

Here is my current chip design...

UCP small.jpg



This is my second attempt. On the first attempt I went crazy with all the spot possibilities in the design tool and wound up with a set that was way out of the budget.

I know I went overboard on the Imperial Blue and White spots and welcome suggestions for improvement. However, keep in mind that I really need to keep the spot levels at near where they are to stay in budget.

Also, I'm not sure about the $1 chip, but am reasonably satisfied with the others.


INLAY DESIGN

I currently have a designer working on a first draft the should be available in the near future.
 
The inlay is planned to be fairly monochromatic with most of the color coming from the denominations. I should be getting a first draft in a few days or so.
 
There are a lot of repeating colors, but as been said before, you should do what feels right for you. Are you opposed to DG colors for spot patterns?
 
First piece of advice is to add an inlay to your mockups, even if it is just a generic placeholder version until the real thing is ready. Adding an inlay will drastically alter how the chip colors and spots appear. Mockups without inlays are only valid if you plan on doing hot-stamps or no inlays.

Second piece of advice (actually should be first) is to get both mold samples and color samples from CPC, if you have not already done so. Designing a set without the proper tools (or knowing exactly what you are ordering) is not wise. Pictures don't tell the whole story, in fact, far from it.
 
First piece of advice is to add an inlay to your mockups, even if it is just a generic placeholder version until the real thing is ready. Adding an inlay will drastically alter how the chip colors and spots appear. Mockups without inlays are only valid if you plan on doing hot-stamps or no inlays.

Second piece of advice (actually should be first) is to get both mold samples and color samples from CPC, if you have not already done so. Designing a set without the proper tools (or knowing exactly what you are ordering) is not wise. Pictures don't tell the whole story, in fact, far from it.

yes, yes, and yes.
 
For me, repeating exact edge spot patterns is okay if all of the chips use the same pattern. Having 2 sets of chips each with the same spot pattern is kind of tilting.

I like the concept. A cool idea could be to have each chip be a different knight and their different colored heraldry.

And the reverse side could be the round table and swords.
 
..First piece of advice is to add an inlay to your mockups

Currently in the works


.. get both mold samples and color samples from CPC, if you have not already done so.

I have a sample set of Avalons, and my brother has an older set from ASM that I've played with. I think that will get me close enough. I'm just trying to get in the ballpark of a custom Paulson. Since I can't get perfection, close enough is good enough.
 
.... Having 2 sets of chips each with the same spot pattern is kind of tilting.

I know what you mean. I first did the set with all chips having the same pattern as the first two, but that seemed a bit lackluster. I could try making the first three match as those will be the workhorses that will be on the table the most.
 
Currently in the works




I have a sample set of Avalons, and my brother has an older set from ASM that I've played with. I think that will get me close enough. I'm just trying to get in the ballpark of a custom Paulson. Since I can't get perfection, close enough is good enough.

GB means that in chip builder you can pick the CPC logo or a plain black/white inlay so that the clay center isn't showing right now. It will give you and us a better feel even now of how the chips will really look
 
GB means that in chip builder you can pick the CPC logo or a plain black/white inlay so that the clay center isn't showing right now. It will give you and us a better feel even now of how the chips will really look

Ah. Will try to get to that tonight.
 
I have a sample set of Avalons, and my brother has an older set from ASM that I've played with. I think that will get me close enough.
And your thinking would be wrong in that regard. Neither of those have any bearing on what you are about to do, or what you need at your disposal to make educated decisions.

I'll say it one more time, because it's important: Get samples. You plan on spending a lot of money on this set -- don't make it wasted money because you ordered something you end up not liking. This goes for both color samples and mold samples. The cost of samples is small compared to the cost of the chips, and it is literally the most important step of creating a custom set.

If you choose to ignore the most important and basic advice, well, then good luck to ya. You're gonna need it.
 
.. A cool idea could be to have each chip be a different knight and their different colored heraldry.

And the reverse side could be the round table and swords.

This thought has crossed my minds many times. When it does, this picture pops in my head...

SID3700ALG.jpg


I keep telling myself no for two reasons. 1) The artwork costs of going with a different design on each chip. 2) The set is for an upscale private club and I want something a little more reserved for the design.
 
For me, repeating exact edge spot patterns is okay if all of the chips use the same pattern. Having 2 sets of chips each with the same spot pattern is kind of tilting.
Agree to a point although it initially bothered me more that the first four chips only had 1/8" spots with bigger spots added on the final two. For me it's really only those chips that seem off, I don't mind the two sets of same spots when the only difference between the two are the $25 and $100 each having eight instead of six, I think that works.

Myself, if my heart was set on the spot pattern of your first four chips I would stick with 1/8" and just add more yet to the $500 and $1000 (and yes, switch up some of the white and IB) :D

Screen Shot 06-06-17 at 06.29 PM.PNG
Screen Shot 06-06-17 at 06.30 PM.PNG
 
And your thinking would be wrong in that regard. Neither of those have any bearing on what you are about to do, or what you need at your disposal to make educated decisions.

I'll say it one more time, because it's important: Get samples. You plan on spending a lot of money on this set -- don't make it wasted money because you ordered something you end up not liking. This goes for both color samples and mold samples. The cost of samples is small compared to the cost of the chips, and it is literally the most important step of creating a custom set.

If you choose to ignore the most important and basic advice, well, then good luck to ya. You're gonna need it.
+1 million

I have recently purchased a custom CPC set. I had a sample set from ASM from a few years prior. All I can say is thank god I bought a recent CPC sample set when deciding my colors. There will be color variations throughout the years and you want the most recent samples. I even bought 2 recent sample sets just to compare because especially the blues were so different from the previous years. Most of the dayglo colors are more vibrant now too it seems.

Just buy a recent sample set please!
 
If you used sable or azure for the spot on the silver chip it would make for more variation in the first two denominations.

Some points to consider if you're trying to stay true to the period. Pink and orange aren't tinctures in heraldry of the time. I might suggest yellow or canary as gold for a base instead of orange. Although you may want to experiment with spot colors then, to differentiate from the vert chip a bit better. And perhaps you could try lavender or purple as purpure for a spot on the azure chip, but that's less common tincture as well. Gold on azure looks good, but if you go with a gold instead of orange you might want To change the base color order as well.

Have you considered the fleur de lis mold? It's a natural fit with a heraldry theme.

I'd also second the recommendation to get samples of at least the colors in the ranges your considering to make sure they work with the colors in your design that you finally end up with. You may even want some colors in the inlay adjusted to work better with the chip colors that you choose when you see them in person.

I'm a bit into heraldry myself and am looking forward to seeing your inlays.
 
Additionally, the colours you see in the Chip Design Tool will not be the colours you see in your hands with samples. The CDT makes most everything look pretty and bright and it also misrepresents some colours, so having samples in your hands can help steer you towards the colours you're after.

Most of the dayglo colors are more vibrant now too it seems.

Want more proof? My colour samples are at least a year and a half old (based solely on when I ordered them and not when they were actually produced). Around this January, I had asked CPC if I should get another colour sample set in case the colours had changed, and was told that my sample set should be okay. Having received my custom set just over a month ago, I can tell you that current samples are a must. All of the colours in my set came out pretty close to the colours in my sample set except for the DG Arc Yellow and Tiger, as seen below:

DSC_0103.JPG


I was lucky as this could have proved disastrous.
 
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Some points to consider if you're trying to stay true to the period. Pink and orange aren't tinctures in heraldry of the time. I might suggest yellow or canary as gold for a base instead of orange. Although you may want to experiment with spot colors then, to differentiate from the vert chip a bit better. And perhaps you could try lavender or purple as purpure for a spot on the azure chip, but that's less common tincture as well. Gold on azure looks good, but if you go with a gold instead of orange you might want To change the base color order as well.

Great information! Much appreciated.

Have you considered the fleur de lis mold? It's a natural fit with a heraldry theme.

I thought about it, but my heritage is English and my first thought seeing a fleur de lis is France.
 
My Dayglo Green add on is a different shade than what I bought a year prior. Not a big deal to me. Definitely to some.
 
I really like that green chip! The more muted yellow works better than the canary I was using. I think I'm going to use that one.
 
As suggested, I have reworked the set limiting it to the color palette of the time period....

H1 small.png



As far as color samples go, most of the color decisions are pretty straight forward. The only real question I have is whether I should use green or dark green for the quarter. I think a darker shade represents the theme better, but am concerned that it might be hard to distinguish from the black chip when they are in a pot together. Anybody using dark green and black together?
 
This is why you get samples.

The reason I love these forums is that it saves me time, money, and hassles. In sticking with primary colors, my choices are pretty straight forward. My only real concern is which shade of green. That has been effectively answered.
 

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