Looking for feedback on first set design (1 Viewer)

[Taghkanic]

Made a few changes. I found a "dark yellow" color that I think looks fairly good on the 25c and fits better with the others that all have dark variants of the main chip color in the label. Also tried a third color on the 25c edge spot which I think I like. Added pink to the 100 and it feels a lot better to me than the gray. I haven't decided on the text yet. I've been staring at all the options and really can't decide what I like best.

Thanks again for all the feedback!

View attachment 1265023

If you keep the waterline where it is, while losing “card room,” you could bring “(the) Chinook Club” down a bit, then slightly bump up the font size—since you would gain a little more width to work with.

I might also increase the size of “fox island, wa” very slightly, so that the “f” falls in line with the middle of the lower edgespots. Not so much that it crowds the denom. But I think you may find your existing point size is really tiny on an actual chip. Even one point larger could add a lot of legibility.

It’s easy in designing labels/inlays to forget how small the finished product will be, because one is looking at it huge on a computer monitor.

Overall, looking great!

 

[Colquhoun]

Two votes for no "the" then. That one is growing on me.

I have started working on getting the edge spots looking more natural, it's done on the 25c chip in that last mockup. I was using the zig zag and roughen effects along with the warp tool, but if anyone knows a better/faster approach would love to know.

For wavy edgespots, I use the pencil tool in Illustrator and do them all by hand. Extra coffee is encouraged.
Clay edges have a consistent type of curve that won’t be replicated by the roughen effect.
Also be very careful when editing edgespots, the point at which the spot meets the edge of the chip is critical…if it moves slightly while making the wavy spot, the spots on the rolling edge may not align with the spots on the face.

 

[thebwit]

Made a few changes. I found a "dark yellow" color that I think looks fairly good on the 25c and fits better with the others that all have dark variants of the main chip color in the label. Also tried a third color on the 25c edge spot which I think I like. Added pink to the 100 and it feels a lot better to me than the gray. I haven't decided on the text yet. I've been staring at all the options and really can't decide what I like best.

Thanks again for all the feedback!

View attachment 1265023

I like the new color options for each of these. You should keep "card room" at a minimum as I am not a fan of the $5 chip's text.

 

[southsound]

For wavy edgespots, I use the pencil tool in Illustrator and do them all by hand. Extra coffee is encouraged.
Clay edges have a consistent type of curve that won’t be replicated by the roughen effect.
Also be very careful when editing edgespots, the point at which the spot meets the edge of the chip is critical…if it moves slightly while making the wavy spot, the spots on the rolling edge may not align with the spots on the face.

That is some dedication! The Pioneer Club chips do look really great in the pictures I've seen, well done.

I'll give the pencil a try and see how much work that takes me. Great tip about making sure any waviness doesn't cause the spots to not align on the rolling edge.

 

[drdr]

Made a few changes. I found a "dark yellow" color that I think looks fairly good on the 25c and fits better with the others that all have dark variants of the main chip color in the label. Also tried a third color on the 25c edge spot which I think I like. Added pink to the 100 and it feels a lot better to me than the gray. I haven't decided on the text yet. I've been staring at all the options and really can't decide what I like best.

Thanks again for all the feedback!

View attachment 1265023

Great design that's almost there. Cool to see good advice being adopted too.
My 2c is that the spot colours on the $1, $5, $25 seem too similar. That's slowing down how wonderfully obvious the spot progression is.

 

[Colquhoun]

But honestly, @southsound , all of these are suggestions that WE might change… but ultimately you are the one that has to look at them all night.
Go with what you like most.

 

[southsound]

I think I've gotten very close to what will be my final design. I ended up changing some edge spot colors and making them all derive a little bit from the main color(s) of the next higher denomination, which I'm sure no one will ever notice, but ensures that they are all quite different and I like that detail. I'm sure I'll tweak the colors a bit more, but I need to decide soon to get in the next group buy!

I started trying to use the illustrator pencil tool (as suggested by @Colquhoun) to shape the edge spots with my mouse and it was taking forever and looked horrible. I then remembered that my son has a Huion drawing display so I tried that and it was amazingly easy and straightforward to shape things using the pencil tool when drawing right on it. Given how fast it is doing it that way I might try @GreekRedEye 's idea of having multiple versions of edge spot shapes for each denomination.

Thanks for all the great feedback it's really helped me think through everything. Here's my final-ish mockups:

 

[Colquhoun]

I think I've gotten very close to what will be my final design. I ended up changing some edge spot colors and making them all derive a little bit from the main color(s) of the next higher denomination, which I'm sure no one will ever notice, but ensures that they are all quite different and I like that detail. I'm sure I'll tweak the colors a bit more, but I need to decide soon to get in the next group buy!

I started trying to use the illustrator pencil tool (as suggested by @Colquhoun) to shape the edge spots with my mouse and it was taking forever and looked horrible. I then remembered that my son has a Huion drawing display so I tried that and it was amazingly easy and straightforward to shape things using the pencil tool when drawing right on it. Given how fast it is doing it that way I might try @GreekRedEye 's idea of having multiple versions of edge spot shapes for each denomination.

Thanks for all the great feedback it's really helped me think through everything. Here's my final-ish mockups:

View attachment 1266160

They look amazing!
Just a side note about the pencil tool…if you double click on the tool icon, you can change the level of smoothness as you draw. Can make a huge difference.

 

[GreekRedEye]

I think I've gotten very close to what will be my final design. I ended up changing some edge spot colors and making them all derive a little bit from the main color(s) of the next higher denomination, which I'm sure no one will ever notice, but ensures that they are all quite different and I like that detail. I'm sure I'll tweak the colors a bit more, but I need to decide soon to get in the next group buy!

I started trying to use the illustrator pencil tool (as suggested by @Colquhoun) to shape the edge spots with my mouse and it was taking forever and looked horrible. I then remembered that my son has a Huion drawing display so I tried that and it was amazingly easy and straightforward to shape things using the pencil tool when drawing right on it. Given how fast it is doing it that way I might try @GreekRedEye 's idea of having multiple versions of edge spot shapes for each denomination.

Thanks for all the great feedback it's really helped me think through everything. Here's my final-ish mockups:

View attachment 1266160

I love it! Nice hack on the spots. One word of caution on your $5. Colors print differently on ceramics than you see on the screen and I fear your red may look more brownish-red in real life. Maybe you are going for that.

I don't know if you have Tina samples. I have several here and I really like how the below colors pop. If you are going for something more muted, then these may be too much. Just a reference point (for you and others).

Sunset Beach Yellow is close to C=4; M=0; Y=78; K=0

Sacramento Casino Light Blue is close to C=61; M=9; Y=0; K=0

Kodiak Red is close to C=11; M=95; Y=95; K=2

Casa Grande green is C=76; M=16; Y=99; K=2
Orange edge spot is C=2; M=50; Y=86; K=0

Crystal Park Mid/Royal Blue is about C=85; M=63; Y=0; K=0

Pink (inner pink) on President Casino NY is about C=7; M=60; Y=4; K=0

Hot Pink spot on The Chateau C=1; M=80; Y=16; K=0

And...purple. Yeah, I have several samples and purple prints weird on Tina ceramics. I am working on a project now and will be using C=60; M=100; Y=0; K=0. For more "blurple" you would up the C.

 

[southsound]

I love it! Nice hack on the spots. One word of caution on your $5. Colors print differently on ceramics than you see on the screen and I fear your red may look more brownish-red in real life. Maybe you are going for that.

I don't know if you have Tina samples. I have several here and I really like how the below colors pop. If you are going for something more muted, then these may be too much. Just a reference point (for you and others).

Sunset Beach Yellow is close to C=4; M=0; Y=78; K=0
View attachment 1266187

Sacramento Casino Light Blue is close to C=61; M=9; Y=0; K=0
View attachment 1266188

Kodiak Red is close to C=11; M=95; Y=95; K=2
View attachment 1266189

Casa Grande green is C=76; M=16; Y=99; K=2
Orange edge spot is C=2; M=50; Y=86; K=0
View attachment 1266190

Crystal Park Mid/Royal Blue is about C=85; M=63; Y=0; K=0
View attachment 1266193

Pink (inner pink) on President Casino NY is about C=7; M=60; Y=4; K=0
View attachment 1266202

Hot Pink spot on The Chateau C=1; M=80; Y=16; K=0
View attachment 1266203

And...purple. Yeah, I have several samples and purple prints weird on Tina ceramics. I am working on a project now and will be using C=60; M=100; Y=0; K=0. For more "blurple" you would up the C.

This is great info! I've been wondering how closely the printing will match what I see on screen. I figured I just had to kind of hope it came out close enough.

I don't want the $5 red to be super bright, but also don't want it to be brownish so I'll try tweaking that a little bit based on the kodiak red values you listed.

 

[digirati]

Maybe consider a special "gift" chip like "EST 2024" on it that you can give to friends. Here's mine:

 

[CallingStation614]

I love it! Nice hack on the spots. One word of caution on your $5. Colors print differently on ceramics than you see on the screen and I fear your red may look more brownish-red in real life. Maybe you are going for that.

I don't know if you have Tina samples. I have several here and I really like how the below colors pop. If you are going for something more muted, then these may be too much. Just a reference point (for you and others).

Sunset Beach Yellow is close to C=4; M=0; Y=78; K=0
View attachment 1266187

Sacramento Casino Light Blue is close to C=61; M=9; Y=0; K=0
View attachment 1266188

Kodiak Red is close to C=11; M=95; Y=95; K=2
View attachment 1266189

Casa Grande green is C=76; M=16; Y=99; K=2
Orange edge spot is C=2; M=50; Y=86; K=0
View attachment 1266190

Crystal Park Mid/Royal Blue is about C=85; M=63; Y=0; K=0
View attachment 1266193

Pink (inner pink) on President Casino NY is about C=7; M=60; Y=4; K=0
View attachment 1266202

Hot Pink spot on The Chateau C=1; M=80; Y=16; K=0
View attachment 1266203

And...purple. Yeah, I have several samples and purple prints weird on Tina ceramics. I am working on a project now and will be using C=60; M=100; Y=0; K=0. For more "blurple" you would up the C.

This is such a valuable post man!
Do you have any more cmyk data?
I will be able to use a few of the ones you posted, so thanks!

 

[BGinGA]

I think I've gotten very close to what will be my final design. I ended up changing some edge spot colors and making them all derive a little bit from the main color(s) of the next higher denomination, which I'm sure no one will ever notice, but ensures that they are all quite different and I like that detail. I'm sure I'll tweak the colors a bit more, but I need to decide soon to get in the next group buy!

I started trying to use the illustrator pencil tool (as suggested by @Colquhoun) to shape the edge spots with my mouse and it was taking forever and looked horrible. I then remembered that my son has a Huion drawing display so I tried that and it was amazingly easy and straightforward to shape things using the pencil tool when drawing right on it. Given how fast it is doing it that way I might try @GreekRedEye 's idea of having multiple versions of edge spot shapes for each denomination.

Thanks for all the great feedback it's really helped me think through everything. Here's my final-ish mockups:

View attachment 1266160

These latest colors/spots are tons better than previous mockups, although I think you still need more contrast between the three quarter spots (and on both the $5 and $25 spot colors too, to a lesser degree).

Adjacent dark spots (or adjacent light spots) rarely turn out well irl.

 

[southsound]

Maybe consider a special "gift" chip like "EST 2024" on it that you can give to friends. Here's mine:

View attachment 1274674

This is a great idea! I already submitted my order for the group buy, but if I do a future order I’ll definitely do something like this.

 

[southsound]

These latest colors/spots are tons better than previous mockups, although I think you still need more contrast between the three quarter spots (and on both the $5 and $25 spot colors too, to a lesser degree).

Adjacent dark spots (or adjacent light spots) rarely turn out well irl.

Are you saying the edge spot colors will be much closer to each other when printed vs on the screen or that lower contrast just generally looks worse than high contrast in edge spots? I already submitted my order so I’ll see how these turn out. Designing these was fun so I’m sure I’ll end up doing another one eventually and will think about this more next time.

 

[TeddyFSB]

Looks great. I vote for no « the »

 

[BGinGA]

Are you saying the edge spot colors will be much closer to each other when printed vs on the screen or that lower contrast just generally looks worse than high contrast in edge spots? I already submitted my order so I’ll see how these turn out. Designing these was fun so I’m sure I’ll end up doing another one eventually and will think about this more next time.

Both.