Will my wooden case be affected by the oil in any way? Will the oil ruin the finish on the mahogany? Will the wood draw-in the mineral oil from the chips? Is it safe & recommended to also oil wood racks, just like plastic?The next step is another factor you wont see in the instruction manuals of chip oiling. If you use plastic trays, then you should know that they, too, are porous microscopically. Yes, get that rag out and oil the inside of your trays also, and let them air dry for 1-2 days along side of your chips. You'll be glad you did, as the charge from the plastic can withdraw active oils from within the clay. Oops! Who'd thought their plastic trays were drying out their chips? Just seal them the same way.
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Yes, facing will be negligible for the most part. You can apply a little more oil, but it really isn't worth it. Edges are the part which are seen most and where the cosmetic factor comes in. The rest is a matter of sealing it so the chip facing doesn't have soils getting into the pores.I am oiling my CPC chips and I notice a negligible difference on the face of the chip (makes a huge difference on the edges), has anyone else noticed this for CPC's?
I just got a brand new set of Matsui chips. Do you think oiling them would help with the slickness?As i have and play with BG or matsui chips i just put a bit of oil with a sponge and then wipe them with cloth. the process is very useful especially for used BG chips as it makes the colors to pop and get more vibrant, however i find that the chips get a bit more stickier and stick to one each other after they stay in trays for awhile.
Also, YMMV, but in my experience, oiling makes a significant difference in the appearance and shufflability of CC chips. I am in process of oiling my CPS chips and the difference in the colors is noticeable.I compression oiled my spirit mold china clays the first time and it made a significant difference. now, months later, I noticed they were getting a bit dull so I did @Trihonda's method and it pepped them right back up. The first time I oiled them, I'm glad I went with the compression method, it pulled a significant amount of gunk off the chips. The second time, I'm glad I did the oil and water, because I didn't feel like spending hours doing it. Long story short, they both work!
Thank you @Trihonda! This was eye-opening. Definitely going for mineral oil+water. (y) :thumbsup:May as well post this here, since this thread was the inspiration for a video I made about chip cleaning and oiling. The video is cheesy, and I’m not Steven Spielberg when it comes to cinematography... but if you skip to the last couple minutes it details the oil/water trick, and has comparisons to the method of pressing in the oil by a rag... pretty much the same results. Enjoy (or get a good laugh).
Great explanation! Can you explain the difference between an inland chip and an embossed chip?And they were all wrong, too.
An adhesive label (often laminated) is just that -- a base material (paper or vinyl), sometimes covered with a protective plastic laminate, with an adhesive glue on the back, which adheres it to the chip surface (usually in a recessed area) when it is applied to the surface of the otherwise finished chip. It is essentially a sticker, and unless using a UV-cured adhesive, relatively easy to remove afterwards.
An inlay is different, in terms of how it is affixed to the chip. The base material (paper, linen, or vinyl) is also usually covered with a protective laminate, but the inlay itself is actually pressed into the chip during the compression manufacturing step, using extremely high pressure and heat. Depending on the specific compression mold being used, the finished inlay may be recessed, or it may be flush with the rest of the chip surface area. It also takes on the surface characteristics of the specific mold, meaning that it may end up with a linen or crosshatched surface finish, or it may end up with a smooth finish -- all dependent upon the mold, not the inlay itself (although matte finish vs glossy is usually a function of the protective laminate material). Because it is actually inlaid into the base chip material (hence the name), removing an inlay is usually extremely difficult, and will often end up destroying the base chip in the process unless done with extreme care.
All plastic chips (including china clays) with artwork have adhesive labels which are applied after the chip manufacturing process is completed (usually injection-molded).
All high-end compression molded chips have inlays which are pressed into the chip during the manufacturing process -- unless the chips are produced as blanks (which have no inlay, but can be later hot-stamped). Some blank high-end chips have a deep enough recess to take a thin label, but others do not -- it is all dependent on the mold characteristics.
And for reference, ceramic chips use a dye-sublimation method to apply ink directly onto/into the surface and rolling edge of a blank chip.