The next step is another factor you wont see in the instruction manuals of chip oiling. If you use plastic trays, then you should know that they, too, are porous microscopically. Yes, get that rag out and oil the inside of your trays also, and let them air dry for 1-2 days along side of your chips. You'll be glad you did, as the charge from the plastic can withdraw active oils from within the clay. Oops! Who'd thought their plastic trays were drying out their chips? Just seal them the same way. View attachment 53918
Will my wooden case be affected by the oil in any way? Will the oil ruin the finish on the mahogany? Will the wood draw-in the mineral oil from the chips? Is it safe & recommended to also oil wood racks, just like plastic?
Didn't get updated on all the new posts folks, but you're in great hands as many questions were answered well. Also, a hearty "you're welcome" to the many thanks.
I will say, if you're hurting your fingers using this process, you're pressing way too hard. Compression doesn't mean a vice grip hold, and pressing too hard may actually just wipe the oil off as you go. I would apply as much pressure as it takes to hold the weight of a deck of cards with two fingers.
Also, yes, Paulsons respond very, very well to this method. The other question, the facing (center) isn't necessary to oil for labelled chips--in fact, unless a chip is splotchy, just doing the edges is sufficient in most cases. If the chip is new, though, I'd definitely do the edge facings for an initial pore seal.
As for Hourglass, oiling wood is very common. I do this on all cutting boards I collect for my gardening and fishing habits in order to seal them, etc. You can find some very expansive videos on this in YouTube.
That said, if the wood has been treated with just a stain, you can oil it; but if it has been sealed with any type of clear coat, urethane or other noticeable form of gloss or matte coating, then I would not suggest getting any oils on that--nor would there be a need since it is already sealed if so.
To restore wood which has been coated in such fashion, you actually have to sand it with variable grits and recoat it with a similar seal.
I found this thread very informative. I tried oiling chips once in 2005 when my new TR King set arrived. I used mineral oil and carefully and painstakingly oiled each of the ~750 chips. Needless to say, after a few days, they looked just as chalky as they did coming from the factory. I was pretty discouraged and never spent the time and effort to oil chips again. I really love those TR Kings, but damn are they dusty. I can imagine how great they would look after being properly oiled. Maybe I will give it another shot! Thanks again, OP!
Yes, facing will be negligible for the most part. You can apply a little more oil, but it really isn't worth it. Edges are the part which are seen most and where the cosmetic factor comes in. The rest is a matter of sealing it so the chip facing doesn't have soils getting into the pores.
As i have and play with BG or matsui chips i just put a bit of oil with a sponge and then wipe them with cloth. the process is very useful especially for used BG chips as it makes the colors to pop and get more vibrant, however i find that the chips get a bit more stickier and stick to one each other after they stay in trays for awhile.
Does anybody have experience with how the CPS chips respond to oiling? I followed this method with my spirit mold china clays and it made a SIGNIFICANT difference. They still hold their improved color and shine to this day.
I finally finished labeling the CPS blanks, but I won't have time to oil them before my tourney this Saturday and I am chomping at the bit to put them in play.