Sisu41
Pair
I'm planning on commissioning a 1000-piece set consisting of 25c, 1, 5, 25, 100, and 500. We usually play .25/.50 but tournaments might happen in the future. How many of each chip should I get to get a good balance?
Could I use the dollar values for cents if I’m playing micro stakes?You don't quite need 1000 pieces for just a cash set, and you don't really want to use the same chips for cash and tournament.
I plan my sets to be able to play everything from 25c/25c to a light $1/2 game. This is what I like for a breakdown. You can easily manage a smaller game with less.
0.25 x 120
$1 x 240
$5 x 300 (or even 400)
$20 or $25 x 100
$100 x 40
That's 800, and the higher denoms will rarely get into play for me.
If you are going to use the same chip design for cash and tournament, then use $20s for your cash game and start your tournament with $25s. Then, if you can, get two different designs of $100s. I prefer my tournament chips not to have the dollar sign on them.
Now that I think about it, nobody I play with does tournaments, I probably should just do cashMake two separate sets; one for cash and one for tourneys.
Unless you only play with childhood friends and family, AND you never-ever host a tournament and a cash game under the same roof.
So, your cash set would go .25-1-5-20 ($) while your tournament set could be whatever units (even in the millions - it's your issue how much they would cost to buy in).
If you insist on combining both in one set, then the chips should represent the same monetary value in either cash or tournament.
So, 5-25-100-500 T units should buy you a T2,000 tournament seat costing $20, or a cash stack costing equally $20.
If you opt for 25-100-500-1,000-5,000 tourney values, your tourney T10,000 buy-in should cost $100 in order to also have a secure cash game with the values representing cents.
So, I'd recommend, in order to future-proof your game:Now that I think about it, nobody I play with does tournaments, I probably should just do cash
Sounds great, thanksSo, I'd recommend, in order to future-proof your game:
100x Non-denominated fracs (could play as either .20 or .25 or .50 or even $2 in bigger games)
200x $1
200x $5
100x $20
and you 're done unless you and your crew get rich somehow
This can cover 9-10 players from .20/.20 to $1/$1
Absolutely. Lots of people do divide the face value of their chips. for a mini-micro game, no issue with dividing the face value by 10 or even by 100 if that's what you want to do.Could I use the dollar values for cents if I’m playing micro stakes?
Definitely focus on cash then. You can always pick up a cheap tournament set (ceramics or china clay) down the road when you need one. Even some clay T-sets can sometimes sell for around $1 a chip or less.Now that I think about it, nobody I play with does tournaments, I probably should just do cash
This is certainly one option. Non-denominated chips can definitely work as fracs, but if you think your primary game will be 25c/25c or 25c/50c, then I would recommend getting 25c chips. It's just a lot more clear to your players if the chips all have denominations.So, I'd recommend, in order to future-proof your game:
100x Non-denominated fracs (could play as either .20 or .25 or .50 or even $2 in bigger games)
200x $1
200x $5
100x $20
and you 're done unless you and your crew get rich somehow
This can cover 9-10 players from .20/.20 to $1/$1
I do this with my Casino Nacional set with denominations $5 (.05) through $500 ($5). Players have no problem with it...Could I use the dollar values for cents if I’m playing micro stakes?