How many of each denom? (1 Viewer)

[Sisu41]

I'm planning on commissioning a 1000-piece set consisting of 25c, 1, 5, 25, 100, and 500. We usually play .25/.50 but tournaments might happen in the future. How many of each chip should I get to get a good balance?

 

[BigJackJones]

There are quite a few threads on this topic. Here are a few to get you started.

https://www.pokerchipforum.com/threads/why-do-people-have-multiple-chips-sets.111249/

https://www.pokerchipforum.com/threads/advice-on-the-quantity-for-custom-set.110498/#post-2280457

 

[NotRealNameNoSir]

https://www.pokerchipforum.com/thre...ut-a-cash-game-chip-set-5c-10c-to-5-10.30897/

 

[TX_Golf_N_Poker]

You don't quite need 1000 pieces for just a cash set, and you don't really want to use the same chips for cash and tournament.

I plan my sets to be able to play everything from 25c/25c to a light $1/2 game. This is what I like for a breakdown. You can easily manage a smaller game with less.

0.25 x 120
$1 x 240
$5 x 300 (or even 400)
$20 or $25 x 100
$100 x 40

That's 800, and the higher denoms will rarely get into play for me.

If you are going to use the same chip design for cash and tournament, then use $20s for your cash game and start your tournament with $25s. Then, if you can, get two different designs of $100s. I prefer my tournament chips not to have the dollar sign on them.

 

[Coyote]

Make two separate sets; one for cash and one for tourneys.
Unless you only play with childhood friends and family, AND you never-ever host a tournament and a cash game under the same roof.

So, your cash set would go .25-1-5-20 ($) while your tournament set could be whatever units (even in the millions - it's your issue how much they would cost to buy in).

If you insist on combining both in one set, then the chips should represent the same monetary value in either cash or tournament.
So, 5-25-100-500 T units should buy you a T2,000 tournament seat costing $20, or a cash stack costing equally $20.
If you opt for 25-100-500-1,000-5,000 tourney values, your tourney T10,000 buy-in should cost $100 in order to also have a secure cash game with the values representing cents.

 

[Sisu41]

You don't quite need 1000 pieces for just a cash set, and you don't really want to use the same chips for cash and tournament.

I plan my sets to be able to play everything from 25c/25c to a light $1/2 game. This is what I like for a breakdown. You can easily manage a smaller game with less.

0.25 x 120
$1 x 240
$5 x 300 (or even 400)
$20 or $25 x 100
$100 x 40

That's 800, and the higher denoms will rarely get into play for me.

If you are going to use the same chip design for cash and tournament, then use $20s for your cash game and start your tournament with $25s. Then, if you can, get two different designs of $100s. I prefer my tournament chips not to have the dollar sign on them.

Could I use the dollar values for cents if I’m playing micro stakes?

 

[Sisu41]

Make two separate sets; one for cash and one for tourneys.
Unless you only play with childhood friends and family, AND you never-ever host a tournament and a cash game under the same roof.

So, your cash set would go .25-1-5-20 ($) while your tournament set could be whatever units (even in the millions - it's your issue how much they would cost to buy in).

If you insist on combining both in one set, then the chips should represent the same monetary value in either cash or tournament.
So, 5-25-100-500 T units should buy you a T2,000 tournament seat costing $20, or a cash stack costing equally $20.
If you opt for 25-100-500-1,000-5,000 tourney values, your tourney T10,000 buy-in should cost $100 in order to also have a secure cash game with the values representing cents.

Now that I think about it, nobody I play with does tournaments, I probably should just do cash

 

[Coyote]

Now that I think about it, nobody I play with does tournaments, I probably should just do cash

So, I'd recommend, in order to future-proof your game:
100x Non-denominated fracs (could play as either .20 or .25 or .50 or even $2 in bigger games)
200x $1
200x $5
100x $20
and you 're done unless you and your crew get rich somehow

This can cover 9-10 players from .20/.20 to $1/$1

 

[Sisu41]

So, I'd recommend, in order to future-proof your game:
100x Non-denominated fracs (could play as either .20 or .25 or .50 or even $2 in bigger games)
200x $1
200x $5
100x $20
and you 're done unless you and your crew get rich somehow

This can cover 9-10 players from .20/.20 to $1/$1

Sounds great, thanks

 

[LeLe]

My 1000 chips go to breakdown is

25c x 100
$1 x 200
$5 x 400
$25 x 200
$100 x 80 or 100
$500 x 20 or 0

You can cover stake from 25/50c to big $2/$5 game or small $5/$5 $5/$10 game

 

[TX_Golf_N_Poker]

Could I use the dollar values for cents if I’m playing micro stakes?

Absolutely. Lots of people do divide the face value of their chips. for a mini-micro game, no issue with dividing the face value by 10 or even by 100 if that's what you want to do.

Now that I think about it, nobody I play with does tournaments, I probably should just do cash

Definitely focus on cash then. You can always pick up a cheap tournament set (ceramics or china clay) down the road when you need one. Even some clay T-sets can sometimes sell for around $1 a chip or less.

So, I'd recommend, in order to future-proof your game:
100x Non-denominated fracs (could play as either .20 or .25 or .50 or even $2 in bigger games)
200x $1
200x $5
100x $20
and you 're done unless you and your crew get rich somehow

This can cover 9-10 players from .20/.20 to $1/$1

This is certainly one option. Non-denominated chips can definitely work as fracs, but if you think your primary game will be 25c/25c or 25c/50c, then I would recommend getting 25c chips. It's just a lot more clear to your players if the chips all have denominations.

You didn't say what type of chip you are planning for your custom set. If you're getting CPCs, then I understand trying to make some chips do double duty as multiple denominations. But if you're getting more reasonably priced ceramics, then go ahead and get some chips in every denomination you plan to regularly use. You won't be sorry.

 

[SteveEH]

Could I use the dollar values for cents if I’m playing micro stakes?

I do this with my Casino Nacional set with denominations $5 (.05) through $500 ($5). Players have no problem with it...

 

[gopherblue]

Cash...two rules of thumb:

1. 100 x 25¢ is plenty for a single table (give a barrel out to each of the first 5 players ala @abby99 , and the others can make change as the game progresses), and
2. Always get spares (at least 5-10) of every denom in case of Murphy.

Breakdown:
This guy keeps getting it right, and I hear he’s a hell of a fella:

https://www.pokerchipforum.com/threads/breakdown-25-50-and-50-1-nl.15141/#post-265619

Or ignore him and go with this guy’s advice...he’s smaht and good-looking to boot:

https://www.pokerchipforum.com/threads/need-help-with-cash-set-breakdown.6473/#post-67892

 

[Samuel]

A couple of pesos for OP:

A few things you may want to consider:

Do you like more or less chips (bigger or smaller stacks) on the table?
How many players do you typically have (how many would be the "most")?
How much money is in the bank per session (what would be the "most")?
Do you prefer to make change more often ("all the time") or less often ("occasionally") throughout the session?
What kinds of games are you playing and do you have any betting limits on any of the games?
How is the action in your games - mellow or crazy (how big do your pots get)?

My two primary groups usually play $1/2 but if/when I host, it's usually .25/.50 (because for me, it's more about hanging out than the $).
At my house, for a $100 buy in, starting stacks are typically:
40 - .25
40 - 1
10 - 5
or sometimes
20 - .25
40 -1
11 - 5
and most of my sets can handle 8 players with those same starting stacks (40-.25). I also have plenty more 5's, 25's, and 100's on the rare occasions I host $1/2 or if the pots get uncharacteristically large for my game.

I played .25/.50 at a buddy's place yesterday night and his breakdown for a $100 buy in was (for 10 players, not everyone bought in for $100):
20 - .25
20 - 1
15 - 5
He didn't have any fracs so he was using $25 for .25 - the way the game played last night (strictly NLHE with a group of his daughter's college/just graduated not long ago from college friends, most of whom don't play much poker), we didn't even get into any $25's...

Do whatever works best for You and Your group(s)...

ETA - In one of my 1000 chip cases right now (for a .25/.50 game):
400 - .25
300 - 1
200 - 5
75 - 25
25 - 100
Total bank - $5775
If I plan on using the same set for a $1/2, then those 400 fracs would be replaced with some 1's, a bunch of 5's and 25's and some more 100's...

 

[Salbino]

You can get a solid cash game set for 600 chips and one table tournament set is about 380 chips bringing the total to 980 chips.

If you are having customs made make sure to differentiate between the two such as $20 chips for the cash set vs T25 for the tournament set. The only other crossover would be the $100 chip which should be a different color/shape/mold or just a $-sign vs no $-sign.

Cash Set - 10 players max
.25/.50 or .50/1 chip break down
125 fracs - recommend no denomination so you can make them .25 for a .25/.50 game or .50 for a .50/1 game.
200 $1
200 $5
50 $20
25 $100

Tournament set 1-table - 10 players max (T25 based)
80 T25
80 T100
70 T500
90 T1000
40 T5000
20 T10000 or T25000