Fragility and durability of China Clay's chips (2 Viewers)

The solids break easy now that I try to break them. The green's and red's are fine though. The Blue tri color takes more force to break.
 
The solids break easy now that I try to break them. The green's and red's are fine though. The Blue tri color takes more force to break.
I have the same grey solids and I'm telling you, washing them in warm water, throwing a label on, and then a solid pressure oiling makes a difference. I still wouldn't drop them from shoulder height onto a tile floor, but normal play is no problem.
 
I have the same grey solids and I'm telling you, washing them in warm water, throwing a label on, and then a solid pressure oiling makes a difference. I still wouldn't drop them from shoulder height onto a tile floor, but normal play is no problem.

Really? WHat do you mean by solid pressure oiling? I don't want to put some oil on it press down and CRACK!
 
Really? WHat do you mean by solid pressure oiling? I don't want to put some oil on it press down and CRACK!
search for the oiling done right method. its a great post on how to do it. basically you are pinching the edge between your middle, pointer and thumb and rotating it. You don't do it until the label is on, so that adds some strength too.
 
I've tried several times to hotstamp these, and there's just no way. They break all to pieces the moment you put any heat/pressure on them.
 
I've tried several times to hotstamp these, and there's just no way. They break all to pieces the moment you put any heat/pressure on them.

I'll be doing labels on the tri and dual color ones. I might just scrap the solid grays as my nickels and get something else. The red tri color and the green dual color are quite sturdy. The blue tris are hit and miss it seems.
 
I own around 800 Dunes china clays. I purchased them about 8 years ago. They are flaking, not horribly, and some of the coloring has faded. Any suggestions as to what I should ask for a selling price? Also, any suggestions on what to include in the post so the potential buyer doesn't get surprised by any typical older china clay features?
 
I own around 800 Dunes china clays. I purchased them about 8 years ago. They are flaking, not horribly, and some of the coloring has faded. Any suggestions as to what I should ask for a selling price? Also, any suggestions on what to include in the post so the potential buyer doesn't get surprised by any typical older china clay features?
can we see a picture of the wear over 10 years?
 
Since this thread has been resurrected, I might as well post that the PGI 8V's do not seem to be fragile or brittle at all. I was able to break a pink one with my bare hands, but it took several minutes of wrenching on it with both hands, as hard as I could. I haven't seen any evidence of flaking or crumbling, either.
 
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Since this thread has been resurrected, I might as well post that the PGI 8V's do not seem to be fragile or brittle at all. I was able to break a pink one with my bare hands, but it took several minutes of wrenching on it with both hands, as hard as I could. I haven't seen any evidence of flaking or crumbling, either.
agreed. I have CPS and 8V tourney sets, I have not noticed any damage at all, but I am not looking under a microscope. I love both of those sets. The spirit mold solids, on the other hand, I cannot go a game without a chip obtaining significant damage. I end up destroying 1-2 chips each game due to damage. Its too bad because I really like the look of them. For what I have in to them, its not too heartbreaking though. Live and learn.
 
agreed. I have CPS and 8V tourney sets, I have not noticed any damage at all, but I am not looking under a microscope. I love both of those sets. The spirit mold solids, on the other hand, I cannot go a game without a chip obtaining significant damage. I end up destroying 1-2 chips each game due to damage. Its too bad because I really like the look of them. For what I have in to them, its not too heartbreaking though. Live and learn.
They’re also the china clays that feel and sound most like actual clay chips, IMO.
 
They’re also the china clays that feel and sound most like actual clay chips, IMO.
I agree, I love the feel and sound, just not the strength. Although, the greens show almost no damage at all, the reds, greys and blues are pretty fragile. I will end up playing with them until enough chips get destroyed to where its not a playable set anymore, then move on. I don't want to give them to anybody knowing how fragile they are.
 
I agree, I love the feel and sound, just not the strength. Although, the greens show almost no damage at all, the reds, greys and blues are pretty fragile. I will end up playing with them until enough chips get destroyed to where its not a playable set anymore, then move on. I don't want to give them to anybody knowing how fragile they are.
You have the solids, right? The spotted ones seem to be better.
 
You have the solids, right? The spotted ones seem to be better.
I've got the solids. I hear that the spotted chips are much better too. They are going to take a back seat once my scrub donkeys come in! The fact that I have the spirit solids is enough justification for a scrub donkey set!
 
More info on older vs newer CCs from the importer/vendor:
Not sure if you know how much time we work with the makers of these chips to improve quality over the years.

The Majestic, Dunes, Pharaoh’s, and Royals are incredible chips for people that can’t afford casino quality items.
And if you look at the ads/posts for older vs. newer CCs, you will see that this is backed up with comments and pictures. The newer CCs seem rather durable.
 
Having handled cc chips for the first time this last week, I can say with confidence that they are poorer quality than ceramics and compression molded clay chips. Infact, there is nothing clay like about them. They feel exceptionally plastic like. When they break, its plastic.
Ceramics are far superior.
The only good thing about cc i would like to say is that the 43mm chips are close to 10g in wt.

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@Ischie ... I started out with the Nevada Jack Skull ceramics which I loved. But when the chance to go for the 43mm royals came, I jumped on it and never looked back. All but one of my players prefer the CC's.

So, I'm curious. Which ceramics would you say are better? I really like the feel of Sunfly's non-ceramics. Maybe theirs feel a lot different than the NJs?
 
@BearMetal there’s no such thing as non ceramic sun fly chips. Are you talking about the hybrids?

Many members are of the opinion that Chipco has a better blank but they’ve gone the way of the dodo as far as customs and home game sets are concerned.
 
@BearMetal there’s no such thing as non ceramic sun fly chips. Are you talking about the hybrids?

Many members are of the opinion that Chipco has a better blank but they’ve gone the way of the do’s as far as customs and home game sets are concerned.

Yes, I'm talking about the hybrids. The ones with an actually inlay. But I wouldn't refer to these as ceramics normally. In my mind ceramics are fully dye subbed.
 
Yes, I'm talking about the hybrids. The ones with an actually inlay. But I wouldn't refer to these as ceramics normally. In my mind ceramics are fully dye subbed.

FYI, those are a label not a true inlay.

Can understand your thinking about the hybrids. For the sake of conversation it’s probably easier to refer to them as ceramics(or hybrids as they’re known) on the forums as everyone else seems to. It might cause confusion and misinformation for those who aren’t familiar with them.

Of course you are free to call them what you like :)
 
Ok, so that means most people would consider a set like Union Station to be ceramics? In that case, I think I do like the feel of ceramics more than CC.
 
Many members are of the opinion that Chipco has a better blank but they’ve gone the way of the dodo as far as customs and home game sets are concerned.

Unfortunate, but true. Game On (GOCC) had a very similar blank, but I have no idea what is going on with them, and ABC has restricted their Chipco blanks to casino-only. At this point, if you want a Chipco-style ceramic, you have to rely on the classifieds.
 
@Ischie ... I started out with the Nevada Jack Skull ceramics which I loved. But when the chance to go for the 43mm royals came, I jumped on it and never looked back. All but one of my players prefer the CC's.

So, I'm curious. Which ceramics would you say are better? I really like the feel of Sunfly's non-ceramics. Maybe theirs feel a lot different than the NJs?

The Nevada jacks are a bit rough textured. Brpropoker’s tikki king and dia de los muertos chips are on a better feeling blank imo. You get them semi customized and also in 43mm size.

Personally I would take used or old paulsons over china clays any day but that comparison is not fair. They excel as a low cost alternative.

I hold ceramics in a category of their own because they are a different type of product that is not trying to a clay chip. Full face graphics, casino wt, etc.

To answer you question and as others have mentioned, chipco protech ceramics by abcgiftsandawards were the best ceramics available to the public on special request. This changed in Oct 2019 when someone told them to restrict sale of protech blanks to casinos only. If you can get your hands on Chipco protech ceramics, you will see what I mean. They are different from old chipco. Graphics extend to the entire rim (no graphic-less border ring).
 
@BearMetal I didnt know Chipco classics were on sale. Are these on chipco blanks?
Category wise, casino grade ceramics is all I can come up with. I am sure someone can enlighten us.
 

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