Tourney What are your tournament parameters? (1 Viewer)

[MeridianFC]

Just trying to get a (mostly) quantitative sense of what people are doing nowadays

1. Usual number of tables/players?
2. Buy in amount? Rebuys allowed?
3. Tournament structure (T100, T500, T1000, etc.). Base chip (T1, T5, T25, etc.)
4. Is your game A. All tournament, B. Mostly tournament, C. Split, D. Mostly Cash/Occasional tournament
5. Why did you pick/settle on your particular structure?

 

[krafticus]

Just trying to get a (mostly) quantitative sense of what people are doing nowadays

1. Usual number of tables/players?
2. Buy in amount? Rebuys allowed?
3. Tournament structure (T100, T500, T1000, etc.). Base chip (T1, T5, T25, etc.)
4. Is your game A. All tournament, B. Mostly tournament, C. Split, D. Mostly Cash/Occasional tournament
5. Why did you pick/settle on your particular structure?

I'm probably an outlier...

1. Usual number of tables/players? 27-32 monthly, so 3-4 tables.
2. Buy in amount? Rebuys allowed? $60 buy in ($40 for the game, $10 bounty, $10 to year-end freeroll). 1 rebuy per person per game (until the 1st break).
3. Tournament structure (T100, T500, T1000, etc.). Base chip (T1, T5, T25, etc.) T10000. (12/12/5/6) T25-T1000
4. Is your game A. All tournament, B. Mostly tournament, C. Split, D. Mostly Cash/Occasional tournament Main game is Tournament, but cash game starts when enough players have busted and table is open.
5. Why did you pick/settle on your particular structure? I've got a big game, and we've been playing tournaments here for 14+ years. its what most of my players want, so that's what we do. I'm starting to host cash games on the 3rd or 4th saturday of each month too. We'll be mixing those up between NLHE/PLO, circus games, limit games, and whatever else we can do.

 

[grantc54]

Just trying to get a (mostly) quantitative sense of what people are doing nowadays

1. Usual number of tables/players?
2. Buy in amount? Rebuys allowed?
3. Tournament structure (T100, T500, T1000, etc.). Base chip (T1, T5, T25, etc.)
4. Is your game A. All tournament, B. Mostly tournament, C. Split, D. Mostly Cash/Occasional tournament
5. Why did you pick/settle on your particular structure?

1. 16-20 players
2. $60-$100 (usually $80), includes everything (rebuy/addon, high hand, bounty)
3. T25K starting, T25K rebuy included (or 30k addon if unused), T25 starting
4. A
5. Deep stacks with rebuy built in allow players to get 2-3 hours of poker in pretty much guaranteed. Includimg everything im the buyin amount evens the playing field, everyone has the same options regardless of wallet depth.

 

[BGinGA]

Just trying to get a (mostly) quantitative sense of what people are doing nowadays

1. Usual number of tables/players?
2. Buy in amount? Rebuys allowed?
3. Tournament structure (T100, T500, T1000, etc.). Base chip (T1, T5, T25, etc.)
4. Is your game A. All tournament, B. Mostly tournament, C. Split, D. Mostly Cash/Occasional tournament
5. Why did you pick/settle on your particular structure?

9-event monthly NLHE league w/free-roll championship for top 8 qualifiers:
1. 2 tables (16 players) combine to a 9-player final table. Dedicated dealers.
2. $60 entry, includes $10 bounty, $5 hospitality fee, and $5 dealers/finals rake with one re-buy allowed. $10 one-time league fee. Typical 20% re-buy rate.
3. T25-base T20k stacks (200bb) with antes, 2k on-time bonus and 1k bonus for optional $5 dealer toke.
4. Monthly event runs 5+ hours, with supplied dinner break afterwards, followed by a stand-alone after-dinner event (varies, usually a $40 non-NLHE tourney or .25/.50 cash game). League start = 1:00 p.m., dinner = 6:30 p.m., 2nd event start = 7:15 p.m., usually finished by midnight.
5. Started out in 2007 as $50 NLHE league with T10k stacks (T25 base, 200bb) and has evolved over 17 seasons. Current season is experimenting with two new additional formats: T100-base 30k stacks with table ante, and T100-base T25k stacks with no antes (3 events each structure) - we will poll players after season ends for feedback. Evening event is often used to try new ideas, structures, and game types, sometimes spurring a second league series for the 2nd game for a year (Circus, HORS, etc.).

 

[Bacon Dad]

@grantc54
Interesting setup. What are the negatives to this?

3. T25K starting, T25K rebuy included (or 30k addon if unused), T25 starting

1. So you track who uses the 25k rebuy and if they don’t, they can opt to add on 30k?
2. Are these options available for the entire tournament or is there a cutoff where you can’t get the rebuy or add on?
3. What does it cost the player to use the 30k add on? Or is this included too?
4. If both are included in the initial cost, why would you ever play for the 25k rebuy if you have a 30k add on available?
5. How many of your players ever go the 30k route vs the free 25k rebuy?

5. Deep stacks with rebuy built in allow players to get 2-3 hours of poker in pretty much guaranteed. Includimg everything im the buyin amount evens the playing field, everyone has the same options regardless of wallet depth.

1. Do you find players are more “careless” with the first 25k since the know they have another 25k waiting for them?
2. Does this set up lead to a lot more action?
2. How many players tap the free 25k? All of them?

Thanks!

 

[Mesnik44]

Just trying to get a (mostly) quantitative sense of what people are doing nowadays

1. Usual number of tables/players?
2. Buy in amount? Rebuys allowed?
3. Tournament structure (T100, T500, T1000, etc.). Base chip (T1, T5, T25, etc.)
4. Is your game A. All tournament, B. Mostly tournament, C. Split, D. Mostly Cash/Occasional tournament
5. Why did you pick/settle on your particular structure?

1. 2 tables - 18 players
2. $62 - $50 to pot. $5 to Year End Tournament Pool. $5 to Player Service Charge (Lol...food, sodas, etc). $2 to Kill Shot (not mandatory). 3 total rebuys allowed, not per person. You stop earning points if you rebuy.
3. Tournament Structure T10,000. Base Chip T25
4. All tournament. 1 game a month, and each has a theme. Big Blind Ante, Wife Birthday, Double Points, Lou Sunshine Memorial, Bring a Friend, Free rebuy / Add On, Deep Stack 30,000 chips, Immortal Mafia, My Birthday, MEGASTAX - T1M or T5M, Main Event, Christmas Poker.
5. I've been messing around with getting it right. 5K too low of a starting stack. 20K too high.
6. Even though it was not asked for, I use Tournament Director to run my tournaments. Corey is very very good to deal with, and will answer you almost immediately should have any questions.

If you would like to check out my website, I have my rules, schedule, RSVP link, chips I use, and a members only link there. Hitmen Poker

 

[Kid_Eastwood]

Just trying to get a (mostly) quantitative sense of what people are doing nowadays

1. Usual number of tables/players?
2. Buy in amount? Rebuys allowed?
3. Tournament structure (T100, T500, T1000, etc.). Base chip (T1, T5, T25, etc.)
4. Is your game A. All tournament, B. Mostly tournament, C. Split, D. Mostly Cash/Occasional tournament
5. Why did you pick/settle on your particular structure?

For the tournament I host myself :

1. 1 table of 8 players.
2. 20, no-rebuy but I'm thinking of adding it sometimes.
3. T100 with T30.000 starting stack on opening blinds 100-100 (so 300BB).
4. B : A small cash game often follows the tournament but the main event is the tournament.
5. It gives +/- 5 hours of play for the tournament which is the sweet spot for our group.

 

[LotsOfChips]

@grantc54
Interesting setup. What are the negatives to this?

1. So you track who uses the 25k rebuy and if they don’t, they can opt to add on 30k?
2. Are these options available for the entire tournament or is there a cutoff where you can’t get the rebuy or add on?
3. What does it cost the player to use the 30k add on? Or is this included too?
4. If both are included in the initial cost, why would you ever play for the 25k rebuy if you have a 30k add on available?
5. How many of your players ever go the 30k route vs the free 25k rebuy?

1. Do you find players are more “careless” with the first 25k since the know they have another 25k waiting for them?
2. Does this set up lead to a lot more action?
2. How many players tap the free 25k? All of them?

Thanks!

I play in this game (sometimes) so I'll answer from my perspective...

What are the negatives to this?
Very few, or none IMO (unless you are a rebuy maniac that wants to push other players around by going all in every hand with marginal holdings). As Grant mentioned, this format allows for a rebuy on a bad beat, but doesn't encourage the deep pocketed players to buy their way to victory.

1. So you track who uses the 25k rebuy and if they don’t, they can opt to add on 30k?
Yes, everyone gets a "Rebuy" chip as part of the buyin. If you bust before the second break, you can use the chip to rebuy a 25k stack (same as initial buyin). If you still have the chip at the second break, you get an automatic 30k add-on to your existing stack.

Are these options available for the entire tournament or is there a cutoff where you can’t get the rebuy or add on?
Chips are all exchanged before or at the second break.

3. What does it cost the player to use the 30k add on? Or is this included too?
One price for everything (initial buyin, rebuy/add-on chip, bounty chip and high hand jackpot). In other words, everyone pays the same amount, and you know the total cost of the evening before you sit down.

4. If both are included in the initial cost, why would you ever play for the 25k rebuy if you have a 30k add on available?
Add on is only valid if you are still at the table at the start of the second break. If you bust out before hand, then you would have to use the rebuy option (but then you aren't eligble for the add-on)

5. How many of your players ever go the 30k route vs the free 25k rebuy?
Somewhat player dependant, and also somewhat dependant on the hands involved. In the last game there was one player busted within the first 15 minutes (full house vs. larger full house). Classic bad beat, player was still able to play with the rebuy. Other times certain players play LAG and get busted out. Last game out of 26 players I think that 4-5 players used the rebuy chip after busting out, and the remaining 21-22 were eligible for the add-on.

1. Do you find players are more “careless” with the first 25k since the know they have another 25k waiting for them?
Mostly the opposite. Larger add-on encourages a bit tighter play. Having said that, the game totally changes flavor after ther rebuy period ends (common with rebuy tournaments)

2. Does this set up lead to a lot more action?
More action than what? I play in another group with unlimited rebuys for the first 2 hours. THAT game sees a LOT of action (to the point of stupidity), as there are a few players that see nothing unusual about buying in 8 or 9 times. Grant's single rebuy or add-on format is somewhat more wide open than a strict freeze-out (at least before the second break).

Edit - another feature of this format is that it doesn't encourage short stacks to go all-in crazy at the end of the rebuy period. In some rebuy formats where you need to bust in order to rebuy, if you have 5k or 6k a couple of hands prior the end of the rebuy period, , it is probably correct to push all-in so that you can rebuy for a full 25k stack. This can lead to 4 or 5 players shoving with garbage, just so they are eligible to buy a larger stack. Pity the poor sap(s) that loses to an even shorter stack, and ends the rebuy period with only a few hundred chips but can't rebuy.

In Grant's format, you would be more correct playing to preserve even a single chip, as you get a larger amount for the add-on than for the rebuy, and that is added to whatever you have in your stack when the break begins.

 

[TexRex]

1. I now limit to 2 tables of up to 9 players each. I have done 3 tables of up to 10 each.
2. $35, +$5 for dealer and card fund. Sometimes we do a $5 bounty. Sometimes we do a rebuy – limited to 1 rebuy.
3. Base T25. Starting T40,000. Aggressive blind schedule allows most games to end in 4 hours of playing time.
4. All tournament. We used to allow a cash or sit-n-go afterwards, but haven’t done that in several years.
5. I found that our players like a bigger starting chip stack. They generally prefer freezeouts, but are OK with rebuys or add-ons 2-3 times a year. They only want a bounty a couple times a year. It’s all NLHE. Typically a 13-15 game schedule. We’ve scheduled 16 the last 2 years, but have had to cancel some, so 15 last year, 13 this year. Typically once a quarter one of the games is special – bigger buy-in, rebuy/add-on, play for 5-6 hours instead of 4 hours, or perhaps a special feature that slightly alters the game.

• We have had a Main Event with a 2x buy-in, but it’s open to anyone who signs up in time. Way more in chips, like 2,000 BB, but we keep our aggressive blind schedule –50-67% increase per round, though to help with the structure, it slows down a little near the end. Our Main Event is open to players who haven’t played with us before. We are not a league. I’ve never done a “championship” game where there is one table after playing a season with multiple tables.
• My tournaments are designed so 90% of the players will play at least 2 hours, and usually it’s higher than 90%.
• We used to do antes starting in the 2nd round. But once as an experiment, we didn’t do antes. The positive feedback from that made me abandon antes entirely. It’s much easier to manage.
• We have aT5,000 early bird bonus, which is 12.5% of the total chips for our regular tournament – but 10% to even up to 20% seems to work well. I have found that is the best way to get started on time, and I’ve tried several things. You have to pay by 10 minutes before the game to qualify. If you pay early (some do), but aren’t there by game time, your stack is subject to a SB and BB at the beginning of each round. Empty seat stacks don’t get cards so they have no effect on play. When a player arrives, depending on where there seat is, they may have to sit out 2 hands.

 

[Bacon Dad]

I play in this game (sometimes) so I'll answer from my perspective...

What are the negatives to this?
Very few, or none IMO (unless you are a rebuy maniac that wants to push other players around by going all in every hand with marginal holdings). As Grant mentioned, this format allows for a rebuy on a bad beat, but doesn't encourage the deep pocketed players to buy their way to victory.

1. So you track who uses the 25k rebuy and if they don’t, they can opt to add on 30k?
Yes, everyone gets a "Rebuy" chip as part of the buyin. If you bust before the second break, you can use the chip to rebuy a 25k stack (same as initial buyin). If you still have the chip at the second break, you get an automatic 30k add-on to your existing stack.

Are these options available for the entire tournament or is there a cutoff where you can’t get the rebuy or add on?
Chips are all exchanged before or at the second break.

3. What does it cost the player to use the 30k add on? Or is this included too?
One price for everything (initial buyin, rebuy/add-on chip, bounty chip and high hand jackpot). In other words, everyone pays the same amount, and you know the total cost of the evening before you sit down.

4. If both are included in the initial cost, why would you ever play for the 25k rebuy if you have a 30k add on available?
Add on is only valid if you are still at the table at the start of the second break. If you bust out before hand, then you would have to use the rebuy option (but then you aren't eligble for the add-on)

5. How many of your players ever go the 30k route vs the free 25k rebuy?
Somewhat player dependant, and also somewhat dependant on the hands involved. In the last game there was one player busted within the first 15 minutes (full house vs. larger full house). Classic bad beat, player was still able to play with the rebuy. Other times certain players play LAG and get busted out. Last game out of 26 players I think that 4-5 players used the rebuy chip after busting out, and the remaining 21-22 were eligible for the add-on.

1. Do you find players are more “careless” with the first 25k since the know they have another 25k waiting for them?
Mostly the opposite. Larger add-on encourages a bit tighter play. Having said that, the game totally changes flavor after ther rebuy period ends (common with rebuy tournaments)

2. Does this set up lead to a lot more action?
More action than what? I play in another group with unlimited rebuys for the first 2 hours. THAT game sees a LOT of action (to the point of stupidity), as there are a few players that see nothing unusual about buying in 8 or 9 times. Grant's single rebuy or add-on format is somewhat more wide open than a strict freeze-out (at least before the second break).

Edit - another feature of this format is that it doesn't encourage short stacks to go all-in crazy at the end of the rebuy period. In some rebuy formats where you need to bust in order to rebuy, if you have 5k or 6k a couple of hands prior the end of the rebuy period, , it is probably correct to push all-in so that you can rebuy for a full 25k stack. This can lead to 4 or 5 players shoving with garbage, just so they are eligible to buy a larger stack. Pity the poor sap(s) that loses to an even shorter stack, and ends the rebuy period with only a few hundred chips but can't rebuy.

In Grant's format, you would be more correct playing to preserve even a single chip, as you get a larger amount for the add-on than for the rebuy, and that is added to whatever you have in your stack when the break begins.

Thanks for all the info. Sounds well thought out.

 

[Bacon Dad]

3. T25-base T20k stacks (200bb)

@BGinGA
What is meant when you say T25-base? Is it the lowest starting chip in your stack? I think I confuse it with T20k as value.

And with a $20k stack (200bb), are your initial blinds $50/$100?

Thanks so much.

 

[Moxie Mike]

Just trying to get a (mostly) quantitative sense of what people are doing nowadays

1. Usual number of tables/players?
2. Buy in amount? Rebuys allowed?
3. Tournament structure (T100, T500, T1000, etc.). Base chip (T1, T5, T25, etc.)
4. Is your game A. All tournament, B. Mostly tournament, C. Split, D. Mostly Cash/Occasional tournament
5. Why did you pick/settle on your particular structure?

1) 18-24 usually.
2) $65 - $250 depending on the occasion. Yes unlimited rebuys until a certain point (usually the first or second break).
3) 30k starting stack 100/200 level 1. I don't know what 'base chips' are. I use T100, T500, T1000, T5000, T25000 & T100000 denoms.
4) I run a league - 6 bi weekly tournaments that culminate in a championship game at the end of the season. I also run one-off tournaments & cash games.
5) It's what attracted the most players.

PS if you want to see my tournament/league rules, send me a PM.

 

[SendThatStack]

Just trying to get a (mostly) quantitative sense of what people are doing nowadays

1. Usual number of tables/players?
2. Buy in amount? Rebuys allowed?
3. Tournament structure (T100, T500, T1000, etc.). Base chip (T1, T5, T25, etc.)
4. Is your game A. All tournament, B. Mostly tournament, C. Split, D. Mostly Cash/Occasional tournament
5. Why did you pick/settle on your particular structure?

16-20 players, Final table at 10 players

$40-100 buyin usually with unlimited rebuys for first hour allowing rebuy at or below the starting stack. Add-on is sometimes allowed when rebuy period closes and is same price as buyin and gets you either 1x or 1.5x the starting stack. Have also done a 1 rebuy 1 addon that was fun.

Structures have been sped up at my game to shoot for a finish within 4 hours. Typically using T25. Sometimes run a super turbo that ends under 3 hours.

My game is mainly cash with 3-4 tourneys a year

Picked structure to keep it from running too long while letting most people get at least 1 hour of tourney play.

 

[MeridianFC]

@Moxie Mike & @Bacon Dad

Base chip would be the lowest value chip in play at the start. One can usually intuit the starting blind structure is from that.

 

[grantc54]

@grantc54
Interesting setup. What are the negatives to this?



1. So you track who uses the 25k rebuy and if they don’t, they can opt to add on 30k?

Correct. Rebuys are live for the first 2 hours.

2. Are these options available for the entire tournament or is there a cutoff where you can’t get the rebuy or add on?

Rebuys for first 2 hours.

3. What does it cost the player to use the 30k add on? Or is this included too?

Rebuy/addon included in the buyin amount.

4. If both are included in the initial cost, why would you ever play for the 25k rebuy if you have a 30k add on available?

If you bust in the first 2 hours you need to use the rebuy or you are out. Addon can only be used at the end of 2 hours if rebuy is unused.

5. How many of your players ever go the 30k route vs the free 25k rebuy?

90% get to addon

1. Do you find players are more “careless” with the first 25k since the know they have another 25k waiting for them?

Nope, because if they make it to the addon they get an extra 5k

2. Does this set up lead to a lot more action?

I think the deep stacks lead to more action at the start more than anything. But the extra safety net likely adds action.

2. How many players tap the free 25k? All of them?

Thanks!

About 10-20% have to use the rebuy, the rest get the addon.

 

[BGinGA]

@BGinGA
What is meant when you say T25-base? Is it the lowest starting chip in your stack? I think I confuse it with T20k as value.

And with a $20k stack (200bb), are your initial blinds $50/$100?

Thanks so much.

Txx-base refers to the smallest tournament chip in play -- long-standing common casino and home game tournament examples are T5-base, T25-base, and more recently, T100-base. But any denomination can be used as a starting point (although some have advantages over others). And $$ or other currency signs are not used to describe tournament chips, because they have no cash value (tourney chips only represent theoretical units).

Yes, our T20k/200bb T25-base structure has starting blinds of 50/100, eliminating the need for non-standard blind amounts or having any levels that double the blinds.

Incidentally, that's why a T20k/200bb structure with 50/100 opening blinds is superior to the similar T10k/200bb structure with 25/50 opening blinds -- there is no need for 100% jumps or the odd 25/75 blind level.

Also why I advocate that T100-base structures should start with 200/400 blinds (vs 100/200), and that T5-base structures should start with 10/20 blinds (vs 5/10).

 

[Nine_high]

Also why I advocate that T100-base structures should start with 200/400 blinds

So do you prefer T100 base starting stacks in the 60k-120k range?

 

[BGinGA]

So do you prefer T100 base starting stacks in the 60k-120k range?

60k stacks are way too big for a T25-base set, even if starting with 50/100 blinds (that's 600bb, ffs). A 60k T100-base with 200/400 would be a moderately deep 150bb, or you could start with 100/200 (300bb) or 100/300 (200bb) for deeper events without needing to increase the stack sizes.

Stacks larger than 120k are better served by using a T500-base, imo -- even a 100k stack T500-base event can be set up for 200bb using 500/500 to start.

 

[MeridianFC]

I’ve been mulling this over for a while. I’ve always run a base T25 because that’s what most casinos I’ve been in were doing and initially I had the idea that I could reuse those chips as a cash set that matched the stakes I play more or less (this was a long, long time ago before I knew better). It does seem to me that the most efficient set is a T1 since it maximizes the jump between chips with what is most commonly available not to mention those denominated chips are, well, the most common. Obviously that doesn’t matter as much if one is using completely custom for everything. I do get that one can have a set where the denominations used for cash and the denominations used for tournaments never meet (.25-$20 and 25-5000 for instance).

Certainly there is a lot to be said for the texture of the game, something that I really believe in. Having 100,000 in play versus 5000 just gives the game a different feel no matter what the reality of the math is. 200BB IS 200BB no?

 

[Nine_high]

60k stacks are way too big for a T25-base set, even if starting with 50/100 blinds (that's 600bb, ffs).

For sure. Was talking T100 base.

A 60k T100-base with 200/400 would be a moderately deep 150bb, or you could start with 100/200 (300bb) or 100/300 (200bb) for deeper events without needing to increase the stack sizes.

Thought you said 200/400 was the ideal starting blinds. To get good starting depth, wouldn't you think 60k, 80k, 100k, or 120k would be a good starting stacks? Or would you rather lower the starting blinds instead and keep the stacks at or below 60k?

 

[Kid_Eastwood]

For my T100 tournament, I use 30.000 starting stacks with blinds 100-100, 100-200, 100-300, 200-400, 300-600, 400-800, 600-1200, 800-1600, 1000-2000, 1500-3000, 2000-4000, 3000-6000, 4000-8000, 6000-12000, 8000-16000, 10000-20000.

But I understand not everyone likes levels where BB is not 2x SB.

 

[BGinGA]

Thought you said 200/400 was the ideal starting blinds. To get good starting depth, wouldn't you think 60k, 80k, 100k, or 120k would be a good starting stacks? Or would you rather lower the starting blinds instead and keep the stacks at or below 60k?

200/400 would certainly be my preference combined with an appropriately-sized starting stack, but if the extra chips needed aren't available, starting at (and/or using) 100/100, 100/200, and/or 100/300 still allow the smaller number of chips to serve as larger bb stacks while maintaining the same blind structure percentage increases as 200/400 & up.

Of all those, I personally prefer starting at 200/400 most, followed by starting wifh100/200 100/300, followed by starting at 100/300, and lastly beginning with 100/100 100/200 100/300. With the corresponding stacks sized to be the same number of bb's, all four options will essentially play the same.

However, I never start with 100/200 and then immediately double it to 200/400, because it's an outlier compared to the rest of the blind increase percentages, and it slices the number of bb in half after just one level.

 

[Johnblue]

Great thread. Lots of nuance here. Going to murder label a big MTT set pretty soon, and I’m think I’m going to skip the 25s and make this T100 base, mainly because I have a pretty big t25 set already,

I think if we can do 3-4 tables, sounds like T100 base is a bit better for a MTT.

You guys that play T100, is it fair to say that it’s a bit easier for a 3-4 table set up?

What are the common t100 starting stacks? T20,000 for example.

 

[Kid_Eastwood]

Great thread. Lots of nuance here. Going to murder label a big MTT set pretty soon, and I’m think I’m going to skip the 25s and make this T100 base, mainly because I have a pretty big t25 set already,

I think if we can do 3-4 tables, sounds like T100 base is a bit better for a MTT.

You guys that play T100, is it fair to say that it’s a bit easier for a 3-4 table set up?

What are the common t100 starting stacks? T20,000 for example.

With T25, you have to decide for 8 or 12 lower denom in your starting stacks.
8 involves changes but is fairly playable.
12 is plenty.
With T100, if you don't pay with BBA, you can use just 10 chips of the lower denom which I think is the sweet spot.

For my T30,000 stacks I use :
- T100 x 10
- T500 x 6
- T1000 x 11
- T5000 x 3

The on-time arrival bonus is 3000 (10%) which I make by issuing a T5000 chips and remove 2 T1000 chips from the starting stack.
I use T1000 to color-up the T100, T5000 to color-up the T500 and T25000 to color-up the T1000.

For a 20,000 starting stack :
10/6/11/1 or 10/6/6/2 if you don't have enough 1000 would work.
If you play with BBA (or if you just like more lower denom chips in your starting stack), you should push the starting T100 from 10 to 15 per player.
15/7/10/1

 

[Johnblue]

With T25, you have to decide for 8 or 12 lower denom in your starting stacks.
8 involves changes but is fairly playable.
12 is plenty.
With T100, if you don't pay with BBA, you can use just 10 chips of the lower denom which I think is the sweet spot.

For my T30,000 stacks I use :
- T100 x 10
- T500 x 6
- T1000 x 11
- T5000 x 3

The on-time arrival bonus is 3000 (10%) which I make by issuing a T5000 chips and remove 2 T1000 chips from the starting stack.
I use T1000 to color-up the T100, T5000 to color-up the T500 and T25000 to color-up the T1000.

For a 20,000 starting stack :
10/6/11/1 or 10/6/6/2 if you don't have enough 1000 would work.
If you play with BBA (or if you just like more lower denom chips in your starting stack), you should push the starting T100 from 10 to 15 per player.
15/7/10/1

Good info. I have 4 racks for the 100, 3 for the 500 4 for the 1000, and also 4 for the 5000 haha ( not going to need THAT many) but looks like I’m covered for 4 tables with the 10x100 and could also do the 15x100 with 3 tables!

Looking good!

 

[Kid_Eastwood]

Good info. I have 4 racks for the 100, 3 for the 500 4 for the 1000, and also 4 for the 5000 haha ( not going to need THAT many) but looks like I’m covered for 4 tables with the 10x100 and could also do the 15x100 with 3 tables!

Looking good!

With so many 5000, you can ever cover the rebuys on top of the color-up or use deeper starting stacks if needed.
It's good to have this flexibility.

 

[idoru99]

Just trying to get a (mostly) quantitative sense of what people are doing nowadays

1. Usual number of tables/players?
2. Buy in amount? Rebuys allowed?
3. Tournament structure (T100, T500, T1000, etc.). Base chip (T1, T5, T25, etc.)
4. Is your game A. All tournament, B. Mostly tournament, C. Split, D. Mostly Cash/Occasional tournament
5. Why did you pick/settle on your particular structure?

1. 3 tables, 24 players on average
2. $40 buy-in with one $40 re-entry available before the end of the first break.
3. T8,000 to T10,000 (depending on number of players) with a T1000 bonus if you arrive on time. Base chip is T25.
4. The game is a tournament, but a cash game often starts up with players who bust out.
5. We started with T10,000 but as the game grew, we needed to reduce the starting stack or the length of the rounds to finish at a reasonable hour.

 

[Rome]

200/400 would certainly be my preference combined with an appropriately-sized starting stack, but if the extra chips needed aren't available, starting at (and/or using) 100/100, 100/200, and/or 100/300 still allow the smaller number of chips to serve as larger bb stacks while maintaining the same blind structure percentage increases as 200/400 & up.

Of all those, I personally prefer starting at 200/400 most, followed by starting wifh100/200 100/300, followed by starting at 100/300, and lastly beginning with 100/100 100/200 100/300. With the corresponding stacks sized to be the same number of bb's, all four options will essentially play the same.

However, I never start with 100/200 and then immediately double it to 200/400, because it's an outlier compared to the rest of the blind increase percentages, and it slices the number of bb in half after just one level.

How long are your levels?

 

[louBdub]

Just trying to get a (mostly) quantitative sense of what people are doing nowadays

1. Usual number of tables/players?
2. Buy in amount? Rebuys allowed?
3. Tournament structure (T100, T500, T1000, etc.). Base chip (T1, T5, T25, etc.)
4. Is your game A. All tournament, B. Mostly tournament, C. Split, D. Mostly Cash/Occasional tournament
5. Why did you pick/settle on your particular structure?

1. 10 Players STT
2. $40, freeze out
3. T100 - 65K 15/7/15/4/1 (tube capacity)
4. Monthly Tournament points, with bounty bonuses for final championship table in June
5. Tried a few, settled on this because it works & it’s fun

 

[dpeks13]

I'm probably an outlier...

1. Usual number of tables/players? 27-32 monthly, so 3-4 tables.
2. Buy in amount? Rebuys allowed? $60 buy in ($40 for the game, $10 bounty, $10 to year-end freeroll). 1 rebuy per person per game (until the 1st break).
3. Tournament structure (T100, T500, T1000, etc.). Base chip (T1, T5, T25, etc.) T10000. (12/12/5/6) T25-T1000
4. Is your game A. All tournament, B. Mostly tournament, C. Split, D. Mostly Cash/Occasional tournament Main game is Tournament, but cash game starts when enough players have busted and table is open.
5. Why did you pick/settle on your particular structure? I've got a big game, and we've been playing tournaments here for 14+ years. its what most of my players want, so that's what we do. I'm starting to host cash games on the 3rd or 4th saturday of each month too. We'll be mixing those up between NLHE/PLO, circus games, limit games, and whatever else we can do.

So do you think 2 hours is too far to travel for a game??? Theoretically speaking and not that I live 2 hours away and am looking for a new game or anything...