Poker Chip Break Downs (1 Viewer)

bucks_absente

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Hey guys!

Man this forum is great, I get totally lost and start thinking about getting more chips :ROFL: :ROFLMAO:

Right now, after reading some threads this is my plan:

Tourney set: (max. 10 people, mostly 6-8)

Stacksize 10.000 (12/12/5/6/0)

T25 - 120
T100 - 150
T500 - 100
T1000 - 80
T5000 - 30
Bounty - 20 (just because they're cool)

Blind-structure attached


Cash Game set: (max. 8, mostly 4-6)

Buy-In 25 (12/12/2), Blinds at 0,25/0,25

T0.25 - 160
T1 - 180
T5 - 80
T25 - 120 (from Tourney set)

What do you think about this plan?

I really dont know if the cash game set is right. But I have no experience with cash games, just want to have an alternate set, just in case :sneaky:


Have a nice christmas and a happy new year!


bucks
 

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I'll leave the blind structures to the experts, but in regards to the cash setup, you may want to be careful using the 25s in both cash and tourney games if you're running both at the same time.

Personally, in my ring of friends, it's irrelevent because nobody would pull that kind of garbage, but if I had outsiders joining, I'd have either 20s or more 5s for the cash game to make sure everything is separate.

There's no worse feeling than a short bank at the end of the night when you're hosting.
 
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Using $20’s for the cash game has also worked out well for me. +1 on the possible of outsiders purposely or inadvertently shorting your chips, so better to have a process that reduces the amount of carryover between cash game and tournament.

Also, the T before the number just represents tournament value and makes sense in your tournament set…. but it isn’t necessary in your cash set. You’ll probably give out exact cash value for your cash game chips ($40 worth of chips for $40 in cash) so you can use the dollar sign to represent cash chips.

Your tourney breakdown looks good. Is $25 your max buy-in for cash game, or the average buy-in?
 
.25 - 100
1 - 200
5 - 100

That will give you about $70 to put on the table. If you have extra chips to hit a number I'd throw them at 5s or 20/25s.
 
Using $20’s for the cash game has also worked out well for me. +1 on the possible of outsiders purposely or inadvertently shorting your chips, so better to have a process that reduces the amount of carryover between cash game and tournament.

Also, the T before the number just represents tournament value and makes sense in your tournament set…. but it isn’t necessary in your cash set. You’ll probably give out exact cash value for your cash game chips ($40 worth of chips for $40 in cash) so you can use the dollar sign to represent cash chips.

Your tourney breakdown looks good. Is $25 your max buy-in for cash game, or the average buy-in?
Ah ok, didnt know That T stands for tournament.
yeah the chips for the Cash Game say Cents or Dollar, except the 25, because I only play tournament or cash game. Not both the same time.

average buy in is 25, max is 50.

Wanted 2 sets with max 1000 chips for both.
 
You've got lots of good advice in this thread so I'll just echo what others have said - for cash games, you rarely need so many of your lower end chips. More of your next denomination up will see much more use.

You can look at it this way. At most, someone will use 3x 0.25 per round (if they absolutely need to bet x.75 everytime), with x4 rounds (préflop to showdown) leaving with you 12x max needed per hand.

And reality that wont really happen. You could even make it 15x# of players expected and you'd have a solid set. People don't mind a bit of colour swaps between hands, it's inevitable in any game (even if would be with the bank, assuming you had infinite of everything).

At least that's my 2c!
 
I think you are close! I have some suggestions. But first, a disclaimer: I am not a pro, but have run a few home tournaments and thought about this a lot. If one of the Tourney Directors on PCF (it's noted under their Avatar) weigh in then absolutely take their advice over mine.

First off, you don't need that many T500s, unless you are planning to use them for something like an "on time" bonus. You might use one or two during color-ups, but really, you should use the T1000 or T5000 during the color ups. Also, you don't need to give folks 5 of the T500s. 3 of them is enough (remember they are only half a T1000 so you should only need max of one for any bet). You could get away with as few as 30 in this set. One approach could be to buy 50 of the T500s, that way, you can in any given game choose to give folks 5 in their stack or give them 3 with another twenty in reserve for bonuses and color ups.

Below are some possible tournament sets breakdowns. I am assuming starting stacks of 10k (which is 200 x BB) and that every player adds on 5k and rebuys 10k (you may not always do rebuys and add-ons, but it is good to be able to accommodate it). If you want to be able to offer deeper stacks (e.g. 300 x BB or more) or if you want to offer multiple add-ons and rebuys, then you will need more of the T1000s and T5000s. Whatever setup you choose, I also recommend a couple spares of each denom and bounty in case of loss in the future.

Option 1 - one table for 12/12/3/7/x stacks
T25 - 120
T100 - 120
T500 - 30 (add 10 more if you plan to use as bonus)
T1000 - 100 (this assumes you need 70 for starting stacks plus 30 more for color ups and rebuys)
T5000 - 40 (this assumes zero in starting stacks but 10 for color ups and 30 for re-buys and add-ons)
Bounty - 10
Total = 410


I know the suggestions below are probably more than you thinking of right now, but you might consider these to be able to expand. (And I suspect you want to if you are buying 20 bounties). I don't know where you are getting your set. If you are getting stock chips, then you can start with option 1 and then easily add on in the future. But, if you are getting customs made, you might consider buying more now (if budget allows) as it may be hard to add on in the future.


Option 2 - Either one table at 12/12/3/7 or two tables at 8/8/4/7
The beauty of T25 is that there are two starting stack options: 12/12/3/7/x and 8/8/4/7/x. If you build your set to accommodate 2 tables using the second starting stack type (8/8/4/7/x) then you can do lots of chips (12/12/3/7/x) on one table or fewer chips (8/8/4/7/x) on 2 tables.

T25 - 160
T100 - 160
T500 - 80 (add 20 more if you plan to use as bonus)
T1000 - 160 (assumes 140 for starting stacks plus 20 for color ups - adding more for rebuys or bonuses would not hurt)
T5000 - 80 (assumes zero in starting stacks but 20 for color ups and 60 for re-buys and add-ons)
Bounty - 20
Total = 640 + 20 bounties


Option 3 - three-table sweet spot - either two tables at 12/12/3/7 or three tables at 8/8/4/7
If I were buying a new T25 tournament set today, this is the line-up I would use. Again, the beauty of the math of 12/12 or 8/8 comes to play beautifully here as 240 divided by 20 players is 12 or divided by 30 players is 8.

T25 - 240
T100 - 240
T500 - 160 (assumes 4 x 30 players, plus 30 for bonuses, plus 10 just in case you want to use for color ups)
T1000 - 240 (assumes 210 for starting stacks plus 30 more for color ups - adding more for rebuys or bonuses would not hurt)
T5000 - 120 (this assumes zero in starting stacks but 30 for color ups and 90 for re-buys and add-ons)
Bounty - 30
Total = 1000 chips + 30 bounties
Optional: a barrel of T10k or a handful of T25k (plaques are cool) to give your bank a bit more depth in case your set is pushed to the max. Or you could just buy more T5000s.
 

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