Webster Farm CPC Mockups (1 Viewer)

[swh]

Hey all, I've been lurking for a while, but this is my first post... I'd been wanting custom chips for a while, and when I learned that CPC was only 12 miles from my house, I knew what I needed to do! I was planning to order in a few months, but then I learned that the H-Mold is going in next month, then not again for a while, so I'm pulling the trigger now!

I've been working on some designs, and hoping to have J5 take a look over and do a bit of tightening up, but here's what I've got now:

And my planned quantities:
50¢: 540
$1: 340
$5: 220
$10: 120
$25: 120

What mistakes am I making? Help guide me, oh wise ones! Thanks you!

 

[arch3r]

Pic seems broken??

 

[detroitdad]

seems like a lot of fifty cent chips?

 

[swh]

Not sure why the pic above didn’t work— here’s the set!

 

[swh]

seems like a lot of fifty cent chips?

Yeah, I think you may be right. I may bump up both the 1 and 5 by 100, and drop the .50 by 200– does that seem reasonable?

 

[Nex]

Yes pic is broken.

1) Way too many 50c chips. Keep in mind, people can and will make change, plus occasionally they also win a pot that contains 50c chips so they will regularly be stocked up automatically. You only want to have as many 50c chips per player to bridge the gaps between pot wins basically.
2) Do not take a $10. Useless. Get more $5s instead.
3) Why the weird numbers? I can understand not wanting to increment in racks for $25 and up, but for everything below?

Your total planned quantity of chips is 1340 chips.

Here is a breakdown even below that which make a lot more sense (assuming single table and no-limit):

50c x 100
$1 x 400
$5 x 600
$25 x 80
$100 x 20

1200 chips total, $7450 total bank. Should be good for anything up to $1/$3 at 100 BB buyins. ($2/$4 might be tight on rebuys)
If you want to reduce the number to 1000 chips, remove one rack of $5s and one rack of $1s, or two racks of $5s.

Alternatively, I suggest looking at getting 25c chips instead of 50c chips. These are a lot more flexible, and you wouldn't need that many more than 50c chips. Here is a example breakdown:

25c x 120 (or 200)
$1 x 400
$5 x 580 (or 500)
$25 x 80
$100 x 20

1200 chips, $7330 (or $6950) total bank. If you want to reduce the number of chips to 1000, same deal as in the first suggestion.

 

[swh]

Is the new pic broken?

 

[detroitdad]

What will help is give us your steaks, buying, and what type of action is at your game

 

[mike32]

No $10 and do 200 x 25 cents instead of 50 cents!

 

[Rhodeman77]

Definitely seems like a strange breakdown. Are you playing some different types of games like a low stakes spread limit or $1/2 LIMIT that you need so many 50c chips?

Otherwise I would look to go with one of the more conventional breakdowns listed above.

 

[swh]

What will help is give us your steaks, buying, and what type of action is at your game

We've got a funny group-- the usual game is .50/1 NL, sometimes 1/2, and half the table buys in for $200+, the other half buys in for $40-60. Depending on the night, an "good" pot can be $15 or $300, all depending on who shows up that time. That said, I'm hoping to establish a second, bigger pot game, I just need to find the right players. (thinking about a 1/3 with a $300 min buy)

I like having more denominations, and I'm a fan of the look of the $10, so I do want to keep that. Also, I'm planning on ordering some $50 and $100 plaques over the winter, but the timing isn't as pressing on those.

Re: 25¢-- I don't want to encourage LOWER stakes games. My friends are cheap enough already And I can always add them in in the future.

How about this breakdown:
50¢: 220
$1.00: 420
$5.00: 420
$10.00: 210
$25.00: 110

 

[Highli99]

What will help is give us your steaks, buying, and what type of action is at your game

Give me all the meat!

 

[swh]

Here are the close-ups:

 

[Blaster]

As mentioned, cut down on the .50's (and/or convert to .25's), no need for both a Ten and a $25, lose the ten & treat yourself to 50 or so black $100's

 

[TheBigTater]

As far as the design goes I like it, inlays are clean/simple & denoms are easy to read. Colors & spot progression is nice as well. Good job so far.

Chip breakdown is not the norm but that is your decision based on what your group will play. Don't be surprised if you hear a lot of comments about that. For maximum chip efficiency you want 4x/5x progression. .25/$1/$5/($20/$25)/$100 etc...

 

[Perthmike]

I like the chip design a lot. My only comment would be to add an extra colour to the $1, rather the have two of the same colour spots.

 

[Lemonzest]

i love the colors! most cpc sets dont do it for me but you did good here.

I suggest ordering in full racks ie groups of 100.

I suggest ditching the 10 and 25 chip and instead get a few 20s and maybe even a handful of 100s.


50c x 200
$1 x 300
$5 x 500
$20 x 40
$100 x 20

 

[swh]

i love the colors! most cpc sets dont do it for me but you did good here.

I suggest ordering in full racks ie groups of 100.

I suggest ditching the 10 and 25 chip and instead get a few 20s and maybe even a handful of 100s.


50c x 200
$1 x 300
$5 x 500
$20 x 40
$100 x 20

Thanks!

My idea with the extras was to have some replacements and extras, as needed-- so an extra round of each: one rack of extras

As mentioned, cut down on the .50's (and/or convert to .25's), no need for both a Ten and a $25, lose the ten & treat yourself to 50 or so black $100's

I'm working on some plaques for 50s and 100s... I'm a sucker for a plaque.

 

[Nex]

Do get extras... but don't mention those as part of your breakdown. You are not going to use them together with the set. You only replace single chips in the set when needed. Apart from that, the extras will always slumber in your closet.

Edit: Plaque denominations -- don't waste your time designing a 50. It is a denomination as useless as the 10. Stick to the 100 if at all.

 

[swh]

Do get extras... but don't mention those as part of your breakdown. You are not going to use them together with the set. You only replace single chips in the set when needed. Apart from that, the extras will always slumber in your closet.

Fair enough!

Edit: Plaque denominations -- don't waste your time designing a 50. It is a denomination as useless as the 10. Stick to the 100 if at all.

Like the $10 chip, it's a personal preference thing more than it making logical sense. $100+ bets are very rare in my home game, so a $50 plaque will get used (and my friends will think it's fun to have and throw it into the pot), but the $100 plaque will rarely get touched.

 

[Nex]

$100 and the likes aren't intended to be "used" as in landing in a pot as part of a bet (except for all-ins) in most home games.
They are intended to be bank chips, i.e. only to store value in a compact way. They are usually broken down by making change before being bet.

 

[swh]

Hey all! Thanks for your feedback. I took some, decided not to take others, and came up with this Rev. 2 today:

With these updated quantities:
$0.50: 200 (+10 extra)
$1.00: 300 (+10 extra)
$5.00: 400 (+10 extra)
$10.00: 140 (+5 extra)
$20.00: 160 (+5 extra)
$50.00: 100 (+5 extra)
Bounty: 40
Non-Denom: 40

Total chip value without the extras: $12,000, which would easily support a higher blind game in the future.

Notes:
$10: Yes, I know that the $10s are useless, but I like them!
Bounty: We've talked about using a bounty in our cash games (yeah, I know it's unusual, but it could be fun...), and one of our regulars is an avid squirrel hunter, so I thought the crosshair theme bounty chip would be fun.
Unmarked: The unmarked chips are for me to give out to friends and use for card protector, golf marker, whatever

 

[arch3r]

I really like the looks of these. I hope you are going to offer sample sets? I'm so in for one. (y) :thumbsup:

 

[swh]

I really like the looks of these. I hope you are going to offer sample sets? I'm so in for one. (y) :thumbsup:

I’ve been wondering how people go about that— I’ve seen a lot of mention of sample sets, but don’t see a forum where people post them. Do people usually pay for sample sets? A full set + postage isn’t cheap. I’m happy to send out some samples, just wondering what the norm is.

 

[Nex]

It is common to offer sample sets at actual cost (manufacturing cost plus shipping+shipping materials) for the sample collectors around here.

They will gladly pay in advance so there's no financial risk for you if you calculate the costs correctly.

Regarding the superfluous denoms, I understand you want to have some more variety, but consider this: the more different denominations on the table, the harder it is for everyone to quickly count stacks and pots. Community experience suggests to try to never have more than four different denominations on the table together (five if one of them is a bank chip) - preferably even just three.

You could consider having merely a barrel or so made of your $10/$50 each - that way you can still throw in some variety if you feel like it, but don't waste too much money. I did the same for my Club Hel set. I have a half barrel each of a $10 and a yellow $20 (main set has green $20) just because I wanted the denom variety - but I perfectly knew those would barely if ever end up being used in an actual game.

 

[Sprouty]

I'm a fan of a $10 chip. I think I prefer your first version.

 

[arch3r]

I’ve been wondering how people go about that— I’ve seen a lot of mention of sample sets, but don’t see a forum where people post them. Do people usually pay for sample sets? A full set + postage isn’t cheap. I’m happy to send out some samples, just wondering what the norm is.

See @Nex response above.

 

[Nex]

I like the looks of the original $25 a lot more than the new $20 - that one looks quite bland.

Also +1 to the suggestion of altering the $1 to have three different spots, rather than two spots with the same color and an odd one. Just looks wrong. Alternatively, balance out the spot distribution: Two imperial spots, two white spots.

In the same spirit, I'd suggest using the regular 4D18 for the $10, i.e. the one with 90 degree radii.

 

[arch3r]

I like the looks of the original $25 a lot more than the new $20 - that one looks quite bland.

Also +1 to the suggestion of altering the $1 to have three different spots, rather than two spots with the same color and an odd one. Just looks wrong. Alternatively, balance out the spot distribution: Two imperial spots, two white spots.

In the same spirit, I'd suggest using the regular 4D18 for the $10, i.e. the one with 90 degree radii.

Damn @Nex , you are reading my mind.

 

[Coyote]

Design-wise, the set has been lovely from the outset, with the exception of the unnecessary assymetry on the $1 spots (either make them all some Blue, or have an IB, a white and another Blue-probably Retro Blue). It's going to be a very nice chip.

Breakdown-wise, you have to give it some thought. Think of maximum number of players, min and max stakes, etc. A cash set has to be middle value heavy, with as many workhorse chips as possible, at the expense of blinds chips and high value storage chips. Have the latter in quantities ensuring the required maximum bank.

Fractional value chips don't need to be denominated, so that they can be used as either quarters or .50s (or anything, like $10s). By the way, I like more the Imperial Blue / Orange chip as ND frac, than the Canary / Orange one.

Though not generally efficient, a dedicated (denominated) $10 chip might make sense as top value chip in a low stakes game, where the $25s will hardly hit the felt. At any rate, it seems you want one, so you 'll get one, because it's your set and your money

Your $25 is beautiful and you should keep it. You may also keep the charcoal chip (originally $10) as $100.

Finally, congrats on the gorgeous $5, and best of luck!