To Raise the Rail (or Not)

BearMetal

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I've got a table build underway by Chanman - it's a decagon build. I keep going back-and-forth over whether I want to have a very slight raised rail (like 1/2") or no rail at all.

My original thoughts were that with a 72" decagon table, the extra drop would be uncomfortable for dealing with a player's chips. However, the look is just so impressive. I also feel like you can do a scoop of the pot much easier if there's a flat edge to pull up against. Here are some pics - I would love anyone's thoughts on this:

With a very slight raised rail:
https://www.chanmanpokertables.com/gallery?lightbox=dataItem-jib887kc
https://www.chanmanpokertables.com/gallery?lightbox=dataItem-j8l764a5

Without a raised rail:
https://www.chanmanpokertables.com/gallery?lightbox=dataItem-jc3s9plh
https://www.chanmanpokertables.com/gallery?lightbox=dataItem-jvwl77sb3
 

BearMetal

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I’m a big fan of a small 1/2”-3/4” rail as far as comfort and aesthetic. Anything higher starts to strain my wrists handling chips

I shied away from the raise for that very issue - I've never played on a table that has a raise. But when I realized that 1/2" can dramatically change the look, I figured how bad could it be on the arms/wrists. I'm definitely leaning toward it now.
 

yone

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I agree, another vote for raised rail. I think mine is 1/2-3/4 raised.

Edit: I don’t have any issue of comfort on my raised rail. This is the best picture I could find in my phone. If I could do it again, I wouldn’t have got the LED lights in the rail.
242743B8-9289-4098-94C6-D5BBBCB0911A.jpeg
 

Jake14mw

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It's such a personal preference issue. I like a slightly raised rail, 3/4" or less. Given that it's such a big table, I think you should do it. I like LED lights in the rail for both the aesthetic, and functionally.
 

bsdunbar1

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Yes raised rail.
I posed the very same question and had the same concerns as you. I went ahead with the raised rail starting with 1/2", then 3/4" and my current tables are 1".
I like the looks of the 1" best, won't go back to anything any lower. Myself nor any of my players have ever felt 1 bit of concern over the 1" height.

20191102_144327071_iOS.jpg
 

BearMetal

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Yes raised rail.
I posed the very same question and had the same concerns as you. I went ahead with the raised rail starting with 1/2", then 3/4" and my current tables are 1".
I like the looks of the 1" best, won't go back to anything any lower. Myself nor any of my players have ever felt 1 bit of concern over the 1" height.

Alrighty - raised rail it is. Hopefully Tony can do it for me. He mentioned 1/2" to 3/4". I don't think I'd go as high as 1" only b/c of the shape of the table. I feel it would make the middle harder to reach. With an oval, other players are closer to the center and can easily reach in to push the pot around.
 

BearMetal

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A raised rail is a lot of additional expense, IMHO 1/2" isn't worth that expense.

First of all - thanks for those pics! It's exactly what I was trying to research and seeing two tables side-by-side is a great help.

I get what you're saying - if you're going to do it, just do it. 1/2" isn't a lot for the same labor as 1". But I think that comes down to preference too. I think the 1" might be too much of a drop for my personal taste. So, maybe I should ask Tony if he thinks that 1/2" or 3/4" would look better on the decagon.
 

Coyote

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IMHO, purely aesthetically, no raised rail at all is better.
But, functionally, it's nice to have a 10-chip high protective wall (not more though; I wouldn't like playing into a bucket).
I wonder if the 10-chip high wall could be attained through a beefed-up rail (? - clueless myself)
 

BearMetal

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IMHO, purely aesthetically, no raised rail at all is better.
But, functionally, it's nice to have a 10-chip high protective wall (not more though; I wouldn't like playing into a bucket).
I wonder if the 10-chip high wall could be attained through a beefed-up rail (? - clueless myself)

You're the first one with that opinion; and I can see your point of view. The whole "playing into a bucket' is how I feel some of Tony's tables look with a 2" rail. But having never felt it, I can't truly knock it. With that said, a rail that is between 1/2" and 1" shouldn't feel bucket-y, but should also give a nice edge and a nice aesthetic without being over the top.
 

Coyote

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Yeah, the question is how high the standard (non-raised) rail stands, or how high it could stand.
I wouldn't go for a total height of more than 35-40mm, but that's just me.
 

Al Azouri

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I went with 3/4” raised rail and real (not decorative) LED lighting. I don’t regret either decision. The raised rail adds physical comfort and the lighting adds visual comfort. I went one night without the lighting because someone kicked out a wire and it was very noticeable.
That being said, you have to consider the added expense. If @T_Chan is building your table you will be happy no matter what.
B32CA2DA-6073-48A7-9026-19555D8BE727.jpeg
 
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72o

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Definitely recommend a 3/4” raised rail.
 

Mac128k

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I've had both and currently have a raised rail.

My 2¢:
  • I love a removable rail for cleaning the playing surface. I used a brush to clear off (poker) chip dust, (potato) chip dust, fuzzers etc. I lifted the rail and swept it off and it worked perfectly. I now have to use a vac and it err...sucks.
  • You have to consider chair leg height and table leg height into your raised rail height. My equation is currently off and my players are complaining. I can't change the rail height so I have to shorten the table legs or get taller seats.
 

Mrmeaner

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I have two different rails for my table but prefer the raised rail as I have LED lighting stuffed underneath - my rail is probably just over and inch high, no issues with it being too tall or wrist issues.
 

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BearMetal

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I've had both and currently have a raised rail.

My 2¢:
  • I love a removable rail for cleaning the playing surface. I used a brush to clear off (poker) chip dust, (potato) chip dust, fuzzers etc. I lifted the rail and swept it off and it worked perfectly. I now have to use a vac and it err...sucks.
  • You have to consider chair leg height and table leg height into your raised rail height. My equation is currently off and my players are complaining. I can't change the rail height so I have to shorten the table legs or get taller seats.

Thanks for the info about chair height. Based on the measurements I got, I think it was perfect before the rail adjustment. With only an extra 1/2", I don't think it would make a negative impact.
 

Coyote

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I've had both and currently have a raised rail.

My 2¢:
  • I love a removable rail for cleaning the playing surface. I used a brush to clear off (poker) chip dust, (potato) chip dust, fuzzers etc. I lifted the rail and swept it off and it worked perfectly. I now have to use a vac and it err...sucks.
  • You have to consider chair leg height and table leg height into your raised rail height. My equation is currently off and my players are complaining. I can't change the rail height so I have to shorten the table legs or get taller seats.
Let alone a dining top, on top of the raised rail (although I 'm generally fond of tall table surfaces and I guess I wouldn't be among @Mac128k 's complaining players)
 

Balanar

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I've had both and currently have a raised rail.

My 2¢:
  • You have to consider chair leg height and table leg height into your raised rail height. My equation is currently off and my players are complaining. I can't change the rail height so I have to shorten the table legs or get taller seats.
Let alone a dining top, on top of the raised rail (although I 'm generally fond of tall table surfaces and I guess I wouldn't be among @Mac128k 's complaining players)

These are the EXACTLY my biggest concerns at the moment. With my typical dining table being at a height of 75cm, my current chairs work perfectly. I'm worried the dining top would be too high if I proritised the poker table height and that if I were to lower the height of the legs to make the dining height right, the poker table would be too low with my players hunched over the table. Are my concerns too exaggerated?
 

BearMetal

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I'm worried the dining top would be too high if I proritised the poker table height and that if I were to lower the height of the legs to make the dining height right, the poker table would be too low with my players hunched over the table. Are my concerns too exaggerated?

I went for the 1/2". I can't imagine it would ruin the feel of a table or make it too high. 2" ... I'd be worried. 4" ... I'd be really worried.
 

Balanar

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I went for the 1/2". I can't imagine it would ruin the feel of a table or make it too high. 2" ... I'd be worried. 4" ... I'd be really worried.

I'm leaning towards 1" - 1.25".. Would not be comfortable with anything taller than that.

Feel like .5" is too little IMO.
 

BearMetal

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With such a large table, I didn't want to make the drop too drastic. Just wanted something for aesthetics and to provide a small edge to pull chips up against a flat edge.
 
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