Table Build #2 (1 Viewer)

[MatB]

would also like to add the difference between the eBay SSC from china and the USA one i ordered from YAT is NIGHT AND DAY!!

Absolutely not even close to being comparable in quality.

USA made definitely had some kind of backing fabric/ material , It looks and feels nicer. Will see how it wears.
I remember the China made having NO backing, feeling thin and when held under running water it acted like a seive.

Of course the difference in price is significant. USA $60 vs China $25 (i think)

 

[upNdown]

would also like to add the difference between the eBay SSC from china and the USA one i ordered from YAT is NIGHT AND DAY!!

Absolutely not even close to being comparable in quality.

USA made definitely had some kind of backing fabric/ material , It looks and feels nicer. Will see how it wears.
I remember the China made having NO backing feeling thin and when held under running water it acted like a seive.

Of course the difference in price is significant. USA $60 vs China $25 (i think)

Yeah I shoulda sprung for the good stuff when I redid my table top.
Next time.
Dies the good stuff stretch any easier than the cheap China stuff?

 

[MatB]

Yeah I shoulda sprung for the good stuff when I redid my table top.
Next time.
Dies the good stuff stretch any easier than the cheap China stuff?

The China SSC was ok to install. Both have about the same amount of give, maybe USA a tiny bit more. But not significant.

Heres the China stuff in action with a warm-up SOHE showdown before we started tourney !

We did a $1 showdown, no betting. just to get everyone interested.

 

[MatB]

UPDATE:

Just ordered 10 Brybelly slide under cup holders. JUMBO. / smoke color.

 

[72o]

UPDATE:

Just ordered 10 Brybelly slide under cup holders. JUMBO. / smoke color.

Put the damn cupholders in the rail will ya!!

 

[Trihonda]

If you have a pneumatic stapler, a trick that works for me is to staple the edges of the table, rather than underneath. The more you staple, the tighter the fit. It actually sinks in somewhat, and secures the cloth nice and taught. Use lots of staples. Then I trim the excess off the bottom, and it looks VERY clean, and using the bottom lip of the table as a cutting guide, the cut is super crisp. Maybe it's just me, but seeing the excess scrap cloth stapled to the bottom looks a tad... unfinished.

I love the legs!

 

[MatB]

Put the damn cupholders in the rail will ya!!

Sorry . NO WAY ! in fact, the first build in picture^ we were going to have 9 players, a bit of a squeeze on that table, but the cupholders make a really nice demarcation of your "zone" . Goes down to 8 players and cup holders move too. !!

 

[MatB]

If you have a pneumatic stapler, a trick that works for me is to staple the edges of the table, rather than underneath. The more you staple, the tighter the fit. It actually sinks in somewhat, and secures the cloth nice and taught. Use lots of staples. Then I trim the excess off the bottom, and it looks VERY clean, and using the bottom lip of the table as a cutting guide, the cut is super crisp. Maybe it's just me, but seeing the excess scrap cloth stapled to the bottom looks a tad... unfinished.

I love the legs!

I agree about the "unfinished " look. i was thinking of a solution, i think your idea might work. it actually shouldn't matter if you staple the top playing surface either if its just an inch in front he edge. Either way, will look a lot nicer/ clean.

 

[manamongkids]

Thanks for the invite

 

[Trihonda]

I agree about the "unfinished " look. i was thinking of a solution, i think your idea might work. it actually shouldn't matter if you staple the top playing surface either if its just an inch in front he edge. Either way, will look a lot nicer/ clean.

You want the felt to be taught... stapling the edge will tighten it up evenly. You could staple the top, but you run risks of slide unders possibly hitting the staples, and I don't think you'll get the same snugging effect. I've done well over a dozen tables using the edge stapling method, with much success. I've found no good reason to do it otherwise.

 

[MatB]

Thanks for the invite

Next $25 tourney i'm locking up a seat for you.

Its official. no backing out now.

 

[MatB]

You want the felt to be taught... stapling the edge will tighten it up evenly. You could staple the top, but you run risks of slide unders possibly hitting the staples, and I don't think you'll get the same snugging effect. I've done well over a dozen tables using the edge stapling method, with much success. I've found no good reason to do it otherwise.

Eric are you also just using 1 piece of 3/4 ply for the playing surface? or are you doubling up the underneath? And do you think adding a 1/4 oval is overkill?

 

[Trihonda]

Just the 3/4 ply. Can you explain what you mean by 1/4 oval? I didn't use any base layer, other than possibly a sub base at the joins for the legs. I find, that a well-done rail adds a significant amount of rigidity.

 

[MatB]

Just the 3/4 ply. Can you explain what you mean by 1/4 oval? I didn't use any base layer, other than possibly a sub base at the joins for the legs. I find, that a well-done rail adds a significant amount of rigidity.

The 3/4 is rigid but i always imagine a few 200Lb + people standing up for an epic All-in moment leaning on the table. Pretty sure it will be fine, but i like overkill, so my thinking was... adding another "skin" underneath where the legs attach.

table oval is 44 X 88, second 1/4" layer would be 30 X 60 (or66) mimicking the shape of the table ,just smaller. The legs and carry handle would then be mounted to that surface.
I agree the rail will add rigidity, but the screws aren't going to be tight because of the slide under cup holders. So rail will not be a part of structural integrity, Pretty sure i'm over thinking this.

 

[Trihonda]

The 3/4 is rigid but i always imagine a few 200Lb + people standing up for an epic All-in moment leaning on the table. Pretty sure it will be fine, but i like overkill, so my thinking was... adding another "skin" underneath where the legs attach.

table oval is 44 X 88, second 1/4" layer would be 30 X 60 (or66) mimicking the shape of the table ,just smaller. The legs and carry handle would then be mounted to that surface.
I agree the rail will add rigidity, but the screws aren't going to be tight because of the slide under cup holders. So rail will not be a part of structural integrity, Pretty sure i'm over thinking this.

When you cut the rail, the inside oval will be smaller than the play surface... I've seen some builds use this extra inner scrap as a sub base. This adds tons of rigidity, but also a ton of weight. If you plan on ever moving your table on a regular basis, skip the extra wood layer.

Even if not screwed down tightly, the rail will absolutely be part of the structural integrity.

 

[MatB]

When you cut the rail, the inside oval will be smaller than the play surface... I've seen some builds use this extra inner scrap as a sub base. This adds tons of rigidity, but also a ton of weight. If you plan on ever moving your table on a regular basis, skip the extra wood layer.

Even if not screwed down tightly, the rail will absolutely be part of the structural integrity.

weight is a concern, which is why i thought a 1/4" piece instead.
I'll get the rail on. Probably will skip the extra layer. Thanks for the input. (y) :thumbsup:

 

[Trihonda]

Here's the sub base I used for my secondary table

You can see the profile from the side, I used a secondary lower lip on the rail. This involves using a third piece of ply.

You can see that I use lots of staples

Here's a better shot of the lower lip, and my installation of decorative into it.. 1.5" spacing.

This lower lip creates a nice finish, so it covers up all of the Staples.

 

[MatB]

Very slick. And VERY nice work.

You just raised the bar for my next build. Table #3 here we come.

 

[MatB]

So you have just an extra 3" or so piece on the underside that the brass tacks are in?

 

[Trihonda]

So you have just an extra 3" or so piece on the underside that the brass tacks are in?

Correct. This serves several purposes, the deco nails have somewhere to call home, it adds stiffness without a ton of weight, and it completely covers the edge of the play surface. Without this lip, part of the play surface can be seen in profile.

Assuming all are 3/4 boards, the rail innerds are comprised of two boards, and one of these boards rests on top of the play surface. There are several layers of material adding thickness to the assembly, so the play surface will be visible from the side. The play surface foam, the SSC, and the rail vinyl all add about 3/8" of exposure for the Play surface. The lower rail lip covers this up.

Lastly, it also covers up all the vinyl staples, so if you're looking at the underside. It looks 100% finished.

 

[MatB]

Correct. This serves several purposes, the deco nails have somewhere to call home, it adds stiffness without a ton of weight, and it completely covers the edge of the play surface. Without this lip, part of the play surface can be seen in profile.

Assuming all are 3/4 boards, the rail innerds are comprised of two boards, and one of these boards rests on top of the play surface. There are several layers of material adding thickness to the assembly, so the play surface will be visible from the side. The play surface foam, the SSC, and the rail vinyl all add about 3/8" of exposure for the Play surface. The lower rail lip covers this up.

Lastly, it also covers up all the vinyl staples, so if you're looking at the underside. It looks 100% finished.

View attachment 85855

a definite for table #3

 

[RowdyRawhide]

Not much else to add except I definitely wouldn't waste my time adding a 1/4" peice to the bottom. 1/4 plywood has zero strength

Love the those legs!

 

[BGinGA]

One change I'd think about making on my next table is moving away from plywood and into an "advanced" OSB.

http://www.huberwood.com/advantech/products/advantech-flooring


Much more rigid, (almost) totally waterproof, very smooth and about $30/sheet. Only downside could be the weight but it certainly isn't as heavy as MDF.

Holy crap, 78 lbs for a 23/32" 4x8 - that's considerably heavier than 23/32" plywood (about 60 lbs). 11/16" MDF is right around 100 lbs.

Another downside is that it is tongue & groove, so you will lose close to an inch in every direction.if you want squared edges.

 

[MatB]

Not much else to add except I definitely wouldn't waste my time adding a 1/4" peice to the bottom. 1/4 plywood has zero strength

Love the those legs!

I slept on it (not the table) and NO 1/4" ply. Contemplating cleaning up the edge where @Trihonda, hate removing staples, but i think worth it.
Also contemplating doing the lower underside band on this table. Once i clean up the fabric, my play surface plywood cuts weren't the cleanest. so that 3" band would cover that up too.

I have time. The table will be ready for BBotB next week and after that i can mess around with it.

 

[MatB]

Holy crap, 78 lbs for a 23/32" 4x8 - that's considerably heavier than 23/32" plywood (about 60 lbs). 11/16" MDF is right around 100 lbs.

Another downside is that it is tongue & groove, so you will lose close to an inch in every direction.if you want squared edges.

LOL, i was waiting for someone to point out its 23/32.

Wow is right. Never though Advantech was that much heavier. I probably wouldn't use it now for the next table, just based on the weight alone.
With one carry handle in the middle on this table its getting up to the limits of portability.

 

[MatB]

TABLE UPDATE:

So pretty much done. Rail foam and vinyl installed. Only thing left to do is screw the rail to the base. I think that will happen tonight with beer in hand.

So i'm not too happy with my upholstering of the rail vinyl. I understand it takes time and theres a learning curve, but man, it is tough.

I also feel like the xtreme vinyl i purchased from YAT has minimal stretch to it which may make it tougher as well. I may be saying this as an excuse for my shoddy work, but i'm kind of frustrated that it didn't come out as well as i had hoped.
After BBoTB I may purchase some WHisperlite vinyl and see if that makes a difference. It will be a pain taking out the staples but i think i have to do it.

So heres the latest pics. I was tempted to not even post as i feel its a sub par job.

The last photo shows probably the worst crease i couldn't get rid of.... Arrrrghh! even as i type this.. me so mad!!!

 

[Raf]

If it really irks you, remove staples and spread that vinyl some in both directions. It's not all that much and think you can definitely get it straightened out. You just need a good staple puller

 

[MucksAlot888]

Looks good mat. Heck of a project to tackle....

 

[Trihonda]

The inner rail inconsistencies can likely be solved by having more pre-slices. Looking at your pics, it seems like you tried to do too big of sections at a time.

Here's what I'm talking about.

 

[MatB]

The inner rail inconsistencies can likely be solved by having more pre-slices. Looking at your pics, it seems like you tried to do too big of sections at a time.

Here's what I'm talking about.

View attachment 87106

View attachment 87107

View attachment 87108

YEs. Probably right about doing too big a section at a time, but its so tricky, i felt like as i got 1 are nice and tight as possible, tightening up then next section got even tighter, making that first section look not as nice.. And your sure its not the fabric messing with me? I was hoping someone might chime in and say "oh the Xtreme from YAT is a PITA. !!" but i guess not. Its just me.

I'm not going to mess with the inner now, but may play around with the outer edge.