STT solids set advice (1 Viewer)

Squakmix

3 of a Kind
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I'm working on a small THC solids tournament set and could use some feedback on denominations.

I'm stuck at an impasse where I can't decide if I should murder the chips and label them (the original plan) or go denominationless. Seeing the chips together makes me think the gold hot stamps are pretty awesome and they deserve to be spared from murder, but it's also nice to have values on the chips and I like the design challenge of putting together a label for them. This decision is also complicated by the fact that one rack of arc yellows was already murdered when I acquired it. Here's what I have so far

PXL_20210923_233007552~2.jpg

PXL_20210923_233002081~2.jpg

I am going for a bright Cali pallette and was considering using the day blue chips for T1, arc yellows for T5s, black for T20, white for T100, fuchsia for T500, and hot pink for T1000. I'm also considering blue for 500s and fuchsia for 25s instead (with probably black 100s and white 500s). It's a challenge to build a set without green, but I like how it looks without green chips and want to stay with this general pallette. Anyone have other suggestions for how I should order the color/denomination lineup? Would it be too confusing to try to use these without denominations? Does anyone do starburst over-stamps these days (for the day blue, black, and arc yellow milled chips)?
 
If most of the home poker world can manage near-solid dice chips with no denominations, I'm sure y'all can. I would give it a shot once or twice if you are on the fence about it before going full murder. I also think the set looks great and doesn't need any green unless you feel like it. Also if you need a home for the murdered arc yellows...
 
If most of the home poker world can manage near-solid dice chips with no denominations, I'm sure y'all can. I would give it a shot once or twice if you are on the fence about it before going full murder. I also think the set looks great and doesn't need any green unless you feel like it. Also if you need a home for the murdered arc yellows...
That's a great point... We've played with dice chips in the past and other than needing to ask what the denominations are a couple of times people didn't have issues with it. The only thing that concerned me about doing that with this set is the unusual mapping of colors to denominations. It's definitely worth putting them into play a couple of times to see what people think though.

Haha I'll keep you in mind if I decide to sell the arc yellows. They are some of my favorite chips in the set
 
The only thing that concerned me about doing that with this set is the unusual mapping of colors to denominations.
I play non-denom games with all levels of experience (including my young kids). Few could tell you what a ‘standard’ color palette is above 100s anyway, if at all! None struggle. So I personally think this problem can be beaten.

I say give it a go and see what you think! It’ll give you more time to agonize over the set details if nothing more!!
 
If your chips were all starbursts, I’d agree with the “try them as they are” suggestion, because starbursts are pretty cool. But you have four different hot stamps there, which would look bad enough all together, but some of them have actual numbers on them. You can’t tell your players that the $100 chips are worth 20. You just can’t. I hate chip murder maybe more than anybody here. But if you’re married to the chips you have right now, I think you need to mill and label.

I’m curious why you’re looking at denominations of T1, T5, T20, T100 and T500. Are those the denominations that your group usually uses? If it works for you guys, I’m not going to argue - I’m the guy who often says that tournament denoms don’t matter, as long as they work. But if somebody was starting from scratch, I’d suggest they go with the denoms that are typically used in casinos. And that definitely doesn’t include T1, and hasn’t included T5 for years. T20 has never been a tournament denomination as far as I know ($20 are used in some cash games) - it’s always been T25. And in the past couple of years, we’ve seen casinos skipping the T25 and starting with T100s.

Do what you want, of course, and if you’ve always been doing something that works, then sure, stick with it. But if your group doesn’t have anything standard or if you’re open to starting anew or change in general, I’d suggest you take a look at what most casinos and serious home gamers are doing.
 
Consider Hot Pink for T0.25 and Fuchsia for T25 and move black to T500 (or trade for Grey/Brown). I would not put Hot Pink and Fuchsia next to each other, denom-wise.
Great ideas, I was worried about whether fuchsia was too close in color to hot pink to use next to each other like that. A hot pink T.25 chip would work well.

If your chips were all starbursts, I’d agree with the “try them as they are” suggestion, because starbursts are pretty cool. But you have four different hot stamps there, which would look bad enough all together, but some of them have actual numbers on them. You can’t tell your players that the $100 chips are worth 20. You just can’t. I hate chip murder maybe more than anybody here. But if you’re married to the chips you have right now, I think you need to mill and label.

I’m curious why you’re looking at denominations of T1, T5, T20, T100 and T500. Are those the denominations that your group usually uses? If it works for you guys, I’m not going to argue - I’m the guy who often says that tournament denoms don’t matter, as long as they work. But if somebody was starting from scratch, I’d suggest they go with the denoms that are typically used in casinos. And that definitely doesn’t include T1, and hasn’t included T5 for years. T20 has never been a tournament denomination as far as I know ($20 are used in some cash games) - it’s always been T25. And in the past couple of years, we’ve seen casinos skipping the T25 and starting with T100s.

Do what you want, of course, and if you’ve always been doing something that works, then sure, stick with it. But if your group doesn’t have anything standard or if you’re open to starting anew or change in general, I’d suggest you take a look at what most casinos and serious home gamers are doing.
We've been playing casual tournaments with my cash chips, so they're used to 0.25, 1, 5, 25, and 100 denominations. The 20 was an idea to make the set fit better with "traditional" Cali colors and avoid a green 25, but you're right that that can be confusing/weird and might just be too cheeky.

I have been feeling the same way about the mixture of hot stamps/denominations with starbursts. If I used the $100s and $1s without milling/labeling them, I'd put them in the lineup with the value they're stamped with. I have been tempted to scoop up some of these chocolate starbursts for a while (https://spinettisgaming.com/product...or-starburst-chip?_pos=8&_sid=6cac9015a&_ss=r) and finally was inspired to order some today after reading some of these suggestions and visualizing them with my chips instead of the black $100s. It looks like I may have gotten the last rack of them.

Edit:

I'm also curious about the possibility of potentially having the $1s, fuchsias, milled arc yellows, and black $100s hot stamped to become starbursts. Is anyone doing starburst hot stamps right now?
 
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My recommendation to play with them as-is first was simply to save the cost and effort of milling/labeling. They’d obviously look twice as good milled and labeled…but at potentially twice the cost and after considerably more effort. If the players are happy as-is, I say play away!! If you want chips that look as awesome as some of the above…that’s obviously an option any time you’re ready.

The big thing though is that solids ROCK!!
 
Since they have no specific history, I'd mill and label.

View media item 21425
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The Reno club CA-NV were Club Cal-Neva worn roulette which I tourned into a tribute set.

The other set were mostly starburst, fun nites, ...
Those are incredible, especially the first set. Really nicely done! A darker label like that was what I originally had in mind for this set but I'm still working on potential designs.

I never really see people hot stamping milled or murdered chips... Is it just prohibitively expensive or are milled chips not great for hot stamping?
 
Maybe they are not suitable for hotstamping because the area where the stamp would be applied is thinner than on a blank chip.
 
These chocolate starbursts from @Spinettis Gaming turned out to be pretty spectacular in person. Holy cow
PXL_20210929_212243201.jpg


Thanks to @Potsie1 for the amazing custom starburst dealer button too.

Edit: more pr0n
PXL_20210929_210920480.jpg

They need to be flattened and cleaned but I'm really into the mauve hue. It's kind of difficult to capture in pictures
 
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As a colour, Paulson Chocolate is very underrated here. It goes well with so many other colours and progressions.

In my Cal-Neva set, I initially had chocolate for the T100. But I replaced it with showboat grey as in low light chocolate was creating issues with the T500 purple.

But I loved my chocolate T100 as a single chip.

In a solid set, I would avoid using it along with dark colors.

Add green for pistachio

Screenshot_20210930-070607~2.png
 
Man these clean up amazingly well
PXL_20211006_073623230~2.jpg


Washing and oiling them really brings out the reddish hue and makes them pop. These chocolate starbursts have exceeded my expectations
 
I'm thinking about going with a breakdown of:
T 25 - 160
T 100 - 160
T 500 - 80
T 1k - 60
T 5k - 40

For 12/12/5/6 10k starting stacks
PXL_20211026_024204229.jpg

Am I underestimating the number of 1k and 5k chips that I'll need?
 
As much as I love the hot stamps, I have been leaning in the direction of milling and labeling them. I think the result would be worth it.

This has made me start to eye other hotstamp tournament sets though like Private Cardroom, Aurora Star, Avalon club, etc
 
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This is for one table. People haven't been rebuying because they typically don't have more than a few hours to play at a time but the rule has been that one rebuy per person is allowed up until the point where we get down to 3 people.
 
There are too many T25 and T100 and not enough T1000.

I'd go with :
T25 x 120
T100 x 120
T500 x 50
T1000 x 80
T5000 x 30

Starting stack = 12/12/5/6
Color-up of T25 and T100 by introducing T1000
Color-up of T500 by introducing T5000
Rebuy = T5000 x 2
 
I'm thinking about going with a breakdown of:
T 25 - 160
T 100 - 160
T 500 - 80
T 1k - 60
T 5k - 40

For 12/12/5/6 10k starting stacks


With this Breakdown & 60 T500 + 80 T1K instead , 16/16/6/5 will be better suit as Starting Stack or Even 16/16/6/5/2 for a Deeper stack 20K poker

Leaving you 30*1k and 40*5k for coloring and Rebuy + Top up
 
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Thanks for the feedback, these are some great ideas. I'm also considering:

T 25 - 140
T 100 - 140
T 500 - 80
T 1k - 80
T 5k - 60

This way the set would stay at 500 chips but include a couple more barrels of the higher value chips. I was worried that with up to 10 people playing we'd have all of the T1k chips in play right off the bat. At least with the breakdown above there'd be another barrel of them left in the bank.

I'm also tempted to look for ways to allow this to support two tables. That's overkill given the games I'm hosting right now but I like the idea of being covered if the game grows
 
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