Small stakes cash set, 5 cent chip or 10 cent chip? (1 Viewer)

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Jake14mw

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Hi all,

I am thinking of getting a small amount of the Horseshoe Southern Indiana chips for small cash games. Buying $1, $5, $25 chips. I will use the $25 as 25 cents. My group generally does not play cash games other than the people who bust out of our bigger tourneys. We are a casual group that usually plays tournaments with a $20 buyin with one rebuy. Based on this, I'm thinking maybe our cash games would be .10/.20 blinds. I will have to buy other chips for either .05 or .10. What do you suggest? In trying to save money on chips I'm thinking of having .10 chips rather than .05. What do you guys think? Thanks.
 
The rest of your set will be quarter, dollar, and 5? That makes the nickel best. Some people here have sets of dime, half dollar, 2, and 10. That is the only time a dime makes sense to me.
 
Thanks for the responses so far. Yes, my other chips will be .25, $1, $5. I would think the question of whether to use a .05 or .10 chip strictly depends on the blinds my group would be comfortable playing? For example, if they would prefer to play .05/.10, then of course I should go with a .05 chip instead of .10. But if we go with .10/.20, then there is no good reason to go with .05 chips at all, is there? It seems that if I go with .10 chips, then I could get away with buying less than if I went with .05. I guess the .05 would of course be more flexible though. Looking for info from people who play low stakes cash, since I don't.
 
Jake14mw said:
I would think the question of whether to use a .05 or .10 chip strictly depends on the blinds my group would be comfortable playing?
Click to expand...
Nope. The dime chip doesn't work well with the quarter, while 5 nickels is a quarter. The chips have to work well with each other or you are going to give yourself headaches every time someone needs change. Here is a quick show of my micro stakes set.

IMG_20200228_115314.jpg

IMG_20200228_115314.jpg

quick breakdown

IMG_20200228_115231.jpg

IMG_20200228_115231.jpg

Micro Stakes

When the chips work well with each other your life as host becomes that much easier
 
Dude
Buddy
Pal
329efb9b21462c9828e21f053ab50942.jpg

329efb9b21462c9828e21f053ab50942.jpg


HARDWELL UNDERGROUND MK II singles

HARDWELL UNDERGROUND MK II singles


SD HPC WH 8V.jpg

SD HPC WH 8V.jpg


PLAYING AROUND.jpg

PLAYING AROUND.jpg


MAIN 4.jpg

MAIN 4.jpg


8V micro Cash set.jpg

8V micro Cash set.jpg


8V 5 cents 03.JPG

8V 5 cents 03.JPG


EE11D606-8AC6-4607-AACF-FBB2BE13244B.jpeg

EE11D606-8AC6-4607-AACF-FBB2BE13244B.jpeg

Weller Hardy spirit mold 10c and Abc 8v 5c

21AE684B-8805-4A5C-B792-2D95237C659F.jpeg

21AE684B-8805-4A5C-B792-2D95237C659F.jpeg

It's always a nickel.
Trust me go nickel.
 
I know this doesn’t directly answer your question, but in my experience a deep stacked .05/.10 game is much more fun and splashy than a .25/.25 game (which doesn’t feel too far from .10/.20). People play wider, and it allows you to vary the buy-in (min $5, max $20) which may be more appealing to newer players.

My .5/.10 game usually sees open raises to .50 anyway, so the lowest denom chip rarely gets used for anything other than the blinds.

Given all that, I’m a big of the nickel
 
I’ll say the reason for going with a nickel vs a dime is because of two reasons (from personal experiences of playing 10c/20c with a 10c/25c/$1/$5 set)

1. If the blind is 10c/20c and someone has no dimes, they call with a quarter, which actually can’t be broken...so they have to toss in another quarter, to then get three dimes back (from the pot) or someone has to break the 50c.
2. Some asshat will definitely bet on odd amount that can’t be called and given change easily, such as 95c, 3 quarters and two dimes, which must be called with either 3 quarters and 2 dimes or 7 dimes and a quarter. Someone can’t just call with $1, bec how do they get the nickel in change back? They have to call with the above configurations, or over with something like $1.20, to try to get a quarter in change back. No one needs that in their life.
 
I agree a dime game progression should be $.10/$.50/$1/$5... quarters make no sense here... the larger question that I haven't seen anyone ask yet would be. What do you want your buy ins to be? Rather than worrying about buying new chips.

Typically cash games follow the rule of max buy in of 200 BB. So if you want to play $.05/$.10 that's a $20 max buy in. For the $.10/$.20 it's a $40 max buy in... doesn't seem major to most of us $.25/$.50 $100 buy in players, but many people especially noobs prefer the $20 bill for a buy in... they feel safe that way.

This is why I built both!! Lol
20200830_202140.jpg

Know your players, know what they are comfortable with, only push them to dig deeper in the pockets if your game can afford it! (Will loosing a couple guys because they don't want to play that size game hinder the playability for everyone?) Then build the chipset around the game and of course always have a hot dog roller spinning dogs 30 minutes before the game (this will definitely help fill any vacant seats!)

Best of luck with your decisions sir!

Fellow Chipper Ben
 
allforcharity said:
But why would anyone, anywhere, ever want the Nickelback?
(Sorry, I just needed to get that joke in there)
Click to expand...
LOL - I tried to avoid that joke through my phrasing. :ROFL: :ROFLMAO:

I heard that Canada radiowaves have to play x% of Canadian music. Thus Nickelback gets a mandatory amount of play...

Is that true? And If so, how do you cope? :eek:
 
markleteenie said:
LOL - I tried to avoid that joke through my phrasing. :ROFL: :ROFLMAO:

I heard that Canada radiowaves have to play x% of Canadian music. Thus Nickelback gets a mandatory amount of play...

Is that true? And If so, how do you cope? :eek:
Click to expand...

I believe the rules are minimum 30% Canadian content.
I suppose we cope with copious amounts of Rush and Neil Young.
 
markleteenie said:
I’ll say the reason for going with a nickel vs a dime is because of two reasons (from personal experiences of playing 10c/20c with a 10c/25c/$1/$5 set)

1. If the blind is 10c/20c and someone has no dimes, they call with a quarter, which actually can’t be broken...so they have to toss in another quarter, to then get three dimes back (from the pot) or someone has to break the 50c.
2. Some asshat will definitely bet on odd amount that can’t be called and given change easily, such as 95c, 3 quarters and two dimes, which must be called with either 3 quarters and 2 dimes or 7 dimes and a quarter. Someone can’t just call with $1, bec how do they get the nickel in change back? They have to call with the above configurations, or over with something like $1.20, to try to get a quarter in change back. No one needs that in their life.
Click to expand...
Thanks very much! These are two particular examples that illustrate good reasons NOT to go with dimes instead of nickels. My mind is made up.
 
So, now a follow up question. For an 8 player cash game, with most buyins $20, some up to $40, blinds probably 10c/20c, what is the MINIMUM number of each denomination that you recommend?
 
Jake14mw said:
So, now a follow up question. For an 8 player cash game, with most buyins $20, some up to $40, blinds probably 10c/20c, what is the MINIMUM number of each denomination that you recommend?
Click to expand...
Barrel of nickels barrel of quarters rest in singles. 5s for buy-ins over $25. All rebuys in straight 5s. Nickels just pay blinds, and quarters will be needed for opening bets, but the singles will be your workhorse.
 
Jake14mw said:
Hi all,

I am thinking of getting a small amount of the Horseshoe Southern Indiana chips for small cash games. Buying $1, $5, $25 chips. I will use the $25 as 25 cents. My group generally does not play cash games other than the people who bust out of our bigger tourneys. We are a casual group that usually plays tournaments with a $20 buyin with one rebuy. Based on this, I'm thinking maybe our cash games would be .10/.20 blinds. I will have to buy other chips for either .05 or .10. What do you suggest? In trying to save money on chips I'm thinking of having .10 chips rather than .05. What do you guys think? Thanks.
Click to expand...
If you buy Casino Chips to use Dollar Chips as Cents 1, 5 and 25 is very usable. With a set of 150 Chips each denom you can cover all sorts of Cash Games like 5c/10c but also if your group step up in limits you can play 25c/25c using the 5$ no longer as cents.

With this breakdown you can cover Games up to 1$/2$. Big flexibility if you and your group of players are fine with this dollar denoms used as cents thing.
 
I am trying to come up with an easy math formula to follow to answer the question to what chips a chip bank should have. I may be oversimplifying this but here goes ......

Denom 1 is your base chip. Whatever is the smallest chip you want in play, that is Denom 1.

Denom 2 is skipped for now, we will come back to that later.

Denom 3 is a barrel of Denom 1. Easy color up for PL/NL games.

Denom 4 is a rack of Denom 1. Easy color up for all games.

Back to Denom 2, to keep color ups easy, a barrel of Denom 2 is Denom 4.

Does this cover it?
 
I too bought HSI $25s to use as quarters. Until I can score some non-red $5 chips or some clay nickel chips, I’m thinking of using some from my other set:
8FEB6C82-4650-461F-9D00-28AB46E0B6D4.jpeg

I know, I know....mixing ceramic and clay...
But it’s MY game.
 
Jake14mw said:
So, now a follow up question. For an 8 player cash game, with most buyins $20, some up to $40, blinds probably 10c/20c, what is the MINIMUM number of each denomination that you recommend?
Click to expand...
  • Nickels, 10-15 per player. Covers a lot of blinds, does not clutter the table, and seldon need to make change even with a lot of limping play (which is standard with new players).
  • Quarters, 13-14 per player (depending on nickel distribution). These are the real workhorse in a beginner-level 5¢-10¢ game, but the $1s come in to play relatively quickly in later streets.
  • Dollars, 11 per player. This is the workhorse in later streets.
  • Fives, 1 each in a $20 game, 5 each with a $40 buy-in. This is your big chip, the "All-in" chip if you will. It is also used for all your rebuys, so depending on buy-ins and rebuys, 4-5 barrels should be plenty for the entire table.
  • Twenties - None at the start, but having a barrel to make the game "future-proof" isn't a bad idea, and is way better than $20s on the table.
My first cash game started at 5¢-10¢ stakes in 2016. It then moved to 25¢-25¢, and the next time there will be a 25¢-50¢ option by popular demand. Only one payer still wants to play nickel-dime, and I bought nickles, so damn-it I wanna use them. That said, future-proofing a set is a good idea.
 
Based on answers so far, I'm hoping on being able to get away with 10-14-11-1 for chips for a $20 buy-in, and $5 chips for any amount more than $20. Early rebuys could have $1s and $5s, and later rebuys just $5. How does that sound?

I like having more chips on the table, and I know for most of you on this site, the HSI $1, $5, and $25 chips are a bargain, so the obvious answer is just buy more so I can have more chips on the table. But for me, paying 69 cents per chip is a LOT! :LOL: :laugh:
 
Jake14mw said:
Based on answers so far, I'm hoping on being able to get away with 10-14-11-1 for chips for a $20 buy-in, and $5 chips for any amount more than $20. Early rebuys could have $1s and $5s, and later rebuys just $5. How does that sound?

I like having more chips on the table, and I know for most of you on this site, the HSI $1, $5, and $25 chips are a bargain, so the obvious answer is just buy more so I can have more chips on the table. But for me, paying 69 cents per chip is a LOT! :LOL: :laugh:
Click to expand...
Just remember the first time you pay $20 per chip those $.69 will feel almost free! Lol that breakdown works, definitely try to stay on budget so you don't become one of us! Broke!!!
 
Poker Zombie said:
  • Nickels, 10-15 per player. Covers a lot of blinds, does not clutter the table, and seldon need to make change even with a lot of limping play (which is standard with new players).
  • Quarters, 13-14 per player (depending on nickel distribution). These are the real workhorse in a beginner-level 5¢-10¢ game, but the $1s come in to play relatively quickly in later streets.
  • Dollars, 11 per player. This is the workhorse in later streets.
  • Fives, 1 each in a $20 game, 5 each with a $40 buy-in. This is your big chip, the "All-in" chip if you will. It is also used for all your rebuys, so depending on buy-ins and rebuys, 4-5 barrels should be plenty for the entire table.
  • Twenties - None at the start, but having a barrel to make the game "future-proof" isn't a bad idea, and is way better than $20s on the table.
My first cash game started at 5¢-10¢ stakes in 2016. It then moved to 25¢-25¢, and the next time there will be a 25¢-50¢ option by popular demand. Only one payer still wants to play nickel-dime, and I bought nickles, so damn-it I wanna use them. That said, future-proofing a set is a good idea.
Click to expand...
5¢ ante or 10¢ ante is how I keep the nickel love alive
 
Jake14mw said:
Based on answers so far, I'm hoping on being able to get away with 10-14-11-1 for chips for a $20 buy-in, and $5 chips for any amount more than $20. Early rebuys could have $1s and $5s, and later rebuys just $5. How does that sound?

I like having more chips on the table, and I know for most of you on this site, the HSI $1, $5, and $25 chips are a bargain, so the obvious answer is just buy more so I can have more chips on the table. But for me, paying 69 cents per chip is a LOT! :LOL: :laugh:
Click to expand...

I like this breakdown as well. I did 20/20/X this past weekend, and filled with 1s based whether people wanted to buy in for $10 or $20. Looking back I probably would’ve done a few less nickels.

If someone buys in for $30 (possibility in a .10/.20 game), then 20/20/19/1 is perfect 3 barrels of chips, though that’s probably wayyyy too many nickels. But it’s pretty
 
I still don't know what I would do for a 5 cent chip. Current thought is unlabeled Milano $10,000 CC chips (orange), with my own label.
 

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