Signal 1940s MD-50 Add-on / Feedback needed (1 Viewer)

[dew4au]

If you go down the route of a green $20, I think your lineup as posted is good (although I prefer a frac w/spots just to maintain consistency).

If you go with the grey/red $25, then I think a blue chip with green spots works better than orange - otherwise you have a fairly orange-slanted section of your lineup with orange spot/yellow base/red spot. I don't think it necessarily looks bad w/the orange spots, but a splash of green could break things up a bit and still look good.

But yeah, given my druthers, I'd go w/the lineup you proposed with the $20, but with a spotted frac.

View attachment 138901

The gray chip already exists. It's part of the existing set.

I'm trying to replace it for cash game use. Maybe not with this order, but in the future. Need to plan for it now, though.

That retro lav chip with white spots calls to me though...

I kinda like #4. I like the solid quarter, and then solid one with an upgraded hotstamp>>inlay moves the progression, IMO. The serious chips ($5 and up) get the edge spots.

I like the idea of a hot stamped $1 as well, BUT I'm not willing to risk this entire order on the stamp given the difficulty of stamping MD-50.

If the stamp turns out well, maybe I'll make a secondary in the future!

 

[joker80]

Man I have to say I love everything about your set and I'm also a big fan of the El Rancho's that inspired it

 

[ejot]

This is one of my favorite sets. The solid stamped quarter and mint chocolate chip 20 would be absoluFREAKINlutely killer additions IMHO.

 

[GenghisKhan]

So MD50 thats diamond square right? When is the deadline?

I've been wanting to order a few blank racks forever to have hotstamped by someone as fracs for different sets.

(Sorry for jumping in)

 

[onerand]

Would love to buy a sample set if they will be available. If you are hotstamping the frac, either no spot or white spot are great. maybe even a single or double spot. A lot of old fracs had 214 spots.

 

[dew4au]

So MD50 thats diamond square right? When is the deadline?

I've been wanting to order a few blank racks forever to have hotstamped by someone as fracs for different sets.

(Sorry for jumping in)

Have your order in by next Friday! Remember CPC won't stamp them, so you'll have to find someone else to do it. There are lots of considerations for stamping the chip, shoot me a PM if you'd like to know more about it.

Would love to buy a sample set if they will be available. If you are hotstamping the frac, either no spot or white spot are great. maybe even a single or double spot. A lot of old fracs had 214 spots.

Samples of the new chips will be offered. I've had the same thoughts about the 214... I did notice that while scanning the era's fracs on the chip guide.

 

[dew4au]

Still struggling internally about the spot on the frac.I do love the look of this chip.

 

[Ray-Col]

Personally, I couldn't stand three white spots in this set - with the hundo having the same spot color & pattern.
Two would be my borderline. Also, they won't hit the felt together (most likely).

 

[dew4au]

Personally, I couldn't stand three white spots in this set - with the hundo having the same spot color & pattern.
Two would be my borderline. Also, they won't hit the felt together (most likely).

Yeah, right when I get I the spotted itch, you come back with a render and put me back on terra firma!

Back on team solid! Thanks, Ray

 

[abby99]

A 2-spot quarter seems off to me. I think that either 314 or a solid quarter makes the most sense. For a 314, there are several colors that might work. I'm partial to maroon -- looks good and is in the same color family as the other spots. It looks different in real life than on this mockup.

 

[MatB]

I feel like if you can get a quarter with at least 1 spot on it rather than solid that would be my choice.

Solid for me is "ok" but given the choice. nope.

 

[dew4au]

A 2-spot quarter seems off to me. I think that either 314 or a solid quarter makes the most sense. For a 314, there are several colors that might work. I'm partial to maroon -- looks good and is in the same color family as the other spots. It looks different in real life than on this mockup.

View attachment 139070

Yeah, when I saw the render the first thing I thought was that it looked like a bunch of error chips!

I tried maroon earlier and its growing on me.

At this point, I'm convinced that if it's going to be spotted, then it's going to be 314.

 

[v1pe]

I still like the white 314, but between that and the solid... Kind of a tough choice. I think I prefer spotted to not.

 

[72o]

Definitey add a marroon spot if you can...either to the light green twenty or the frac. And yeah go with the 314 spot. The 214 spot always reminds me of a crying baby's mouth with a couple teeth showing (esp. if you use white for the spots)

 

[Ray-Col]

Just in case someone might find these ueful

 

[dew4au]

Playing around with some hot stamp concepts. This one might be a bit much. Thanks for the new render @Ray-Col!

 

[AK Chip]

I kinda like #4. I like the solid quarter, and then solid one with an upgraded hotstamp>>inlay moves the progression, IMO. The serious chips ($5 and up) get the edge spots.

I like #4 as well.

 

[Ray-Col]

Playing around with some hot stamp concepts. This one might be a bit much. Thanks for the new render @Ray-Col!

I'd love to see a more sophisticated hot stamp! (y) :thumbsup:
I think it could improve when you put the text to the bottom and the tower more to the center. Although best option, imho, is to ditch the text and let the signal tower speak for itself (reference/explanation is already in the other chips). Make the windows solid, too.

 

[dew4au]

I'd love to see a more sophisticated hot stamp! (y) :thumbsup:
I think it could improve when you put the text to the bottom and the tower more to the center. Although best option, imho, is to ditch the text and let the signal tower speak for itself (reference/explanation is already in the other chips). Make the windows solid, too.

Good point on the windows. They will need to be solid for sure.

I know it seems weird, but I'm intentionally trying to AVOID lots of detail the center. The thing about stamping MD-50 is that the center is often uneven, and that causes stamping errors. You can't even stamp it with a automated machine. That's why CPC won't do it.

This stamp had about a 50% error rate:

This one had about a 25% error rate:

Notice that most the majority of the stamp is offset to one side.

I'm still not sure if the tower will fly at all. If it does, it may be the tower and a denom. I'd definitely like to have the 25% stamp and not the 50% stamp, so I'll have to make some concessions.

 

[Ray-Col]

I'm a complete dimwit when it comes to hot stamping. My comment solely derived from aesthetic feel.
I guess there's nothing wrong with not wrecking chips! :

 

[dew4au]

Maybe something like this. I'm going to dig up all the MD-50 hotstamps from TCG...

 

[dew4au]

@Ray-Col, Here's a better explanation of the situation from @cgraham86 This was his response to the question of ordering samples from his Blakeley Club chips above.


I would absolutely love to, but unfortunately for me (and I don't know if Courage or others are experiencing this as well) there are a LOT of mis-stamps on this mold, which is really upsetting. The heat/pressure/time combination is extremely tricky to nail down to begin with, and even with that dialed in this mold has been a bit wavy in the inlay, and since it's not flat the results are incomplete stamps - especially in the center. This includes an incomplete denomination, the circle being partially stamped, etc. I know the waviness in the inlay is the issue, partially because a majority of the chips stamp just fine and are flat enough I can get a quality stamp, but also because a lot of the mis-stamps result in an incomplete stamp in one area but overstamping in other area of the same stamp - specifically in the lettering. Right now it's above 25%, which is downright awful. So, the chips have a tendency to have a depression in the center. The outer edges of the inaly seem to be relativey consistent, but trying to get a clear stamp in the middle means overstamping the letters. That looks awful on a dark chip.

Typically cross-hatcing can help with this issue a little bit, but this mold has hardly any. It's just a difficult mold to hotstamp (at least for me), so I don't think any samples will go out unless folks are happy with mis-stamps. I'm definitely not so I don't imagine anyone else would be. However, I'd be happy to throw some of these out if people want them.

The die is partially the issue too - I have to admit. I should have made my font a little more bold and less sharp on the edges, but that would only help on the overstamping of the letters. It wouldn't help overcoming the depressions in the center.

 

[dew4au]

I've aggregated known examples of casino hot stamps on the MD-50. I see a pattern here. Many of the stamps utilize the outside edge of the inlay area and avoid the center.

 

[Ray-Col]

Thanks for the thorough insight!
I'd like to vote for #3 as I'm still a fan of the solid. Two stamps seems to be a nice way to kill two birds with one stone. (y) :thumbsup:

 

[dew4au]

I'm mainly compiling this information here to help the next person who does a MD-50 hot stamp.

Set: Vintage Cedar Room
Owner: @toad94
Stamper: @cgraham86
Error Rate: About 15%



Set: Club Courage
Owner: Courage
Stamper: @monkeydog
Error Rate: $1: 15%, $5: 11%



Set: Suicide Queen
Owner: @k9dr
Stamper: @meatboy
Error Rate: Possibly around 10% but not sure



Set: Blakely Club (Full set on the blue wall)
Owner: cgraham96
Stamper: cgraham86
Error Rate: Around 50%



Set: Hellfire Club (Full set on the blue wall)
Owner: @Racer96
Stamper: cgraham86
Error Rate: Around 25%


Courage is the only person who posted pictures of the error chips. See below for examples.

If anyone else knows of other stamped MD-50 sets, let me know and I will try to get them added!

 

[dew4au]

@johnnycnote Did you ever have your Havana Capri set produced and stamped?

 

[dew4au]

Alight. T minus 24 hours until the order is placed. Final arguments for solid versus spotted frac... Do I like that spot $100 better?

Team Solid
@Ray-Col
@AK Chip
@p5woody
@abby99
@Burke
@crussader
@TheBigTater
@WedgeRock
@ejot


Team Spotted
@v1pe
@joker80
@Mac128k
@72o
@RowdyRawhide
@MatB

 

[TheBigTater]

Only comment, if you go spotted then you should really go with an inlay. HS for solid only.

 

[abby99]

Only comment, if you go spotted then you should really go with an inlay. HS for solid only.

Agreed!

Spotted with inlay = first choice
Solid with HS = a close second
Spotted with HS = third choice

 

[72o]

Alight. T minus 24 hours until the order is placed. Final arguments for solid versus spotted frac... Do I like that spot $100 better?

Team Solid
@Ray-Col
@AK Chip
@p5woody
@abby99
@Burke
@crussader
@TheBigTater
@WedgeRock
@ejot


Team Spotted
@v1pe
@joker80
@Mac128k
@72o
@RowdyRawhide
@MatB

SPOTTED!

If there was varying spot patterns throughout the set, then yes, go with a solid frac. But because the whole set uses the same spot pattern, the solid frac looks out of place to me.

I would however suggest orienting the frac pattern the same as the others in the set though.