Rail with Cup Holders (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter DNeyer
- Start date
brains613
Flush
Not much of a "tutorial" per se, but I'm about to start building a table, using roughly this design.
http://imgur.com/a/Q54gK
Plans are pretty hard to come by, since the popular table building forum dissolved.
Here's another, though no cupholders in this one. You do get the idea of raising the rail, though.
http://www.chiptalk.net/forum/threads/lighted-raised-rail-table-how-to.78135/
http://imgur.com/a/Q54gK
Plans are pretty hard to come by, since the popular table building forum dissolved.
Here's another, though no cupholders in this one. You do get the idea of raising the rail, though.
http://www.chiptalk.net/forum/threads/lighted-raised-rail-table-how-to.78135/
links_slayer
4 of a Kind
Did a writeup a while back here:
http://perfectmancave.com/forum/showthread.php?t=6741
http://perfectmancave.com/forum/showthread.php?t=6741
Irish's link describes the building process pretty well. Are you looking for anything that the link he posted didn't cover?
With that said, 5" is barely wide enough to fit jumbo cup holders in them. Jumbo cups are 3.5" wide leaving you with 3/4" of plywood on either side of the cups. It's doable but a cutting it quite close. Especially because the foam compresses a lot around the edges of the plywood. I normally build tables with a minimum 6" wide rail if putting cups in the rail.
2nd, 48" is too wide, I'd recomend cutting it down to 44". You only lose 4" of width without losing a lot of rail space but it's much easier to reach across the table. Those few inches can make a big difference. (That's what she said)
With that said, 5" is barely wide enough to fit jumbo cup holders in them. Jumbo cups are 3.5" wide leaving you with 3/4" of plywood on either side of the cups. It's doable but a cutting it quite close. Especially because the foam compresses a lot around the edges of the plywood. I normally build tables with a minimum 6" wide rail if putting cups in the rail.
2nd, 48" is too wide, I'd recomend cutting it down to 44". You only lose 4" of width without losing a lot of rail space but it's much easier to reach across the table. Those few inches can make a big difference. (That's what she said)
celticnoel79
High Hand
Have you started this table Dneyer look forward to seeing the pics (y) :thumbsup:
When considering table width, consider how close people's knees will be to each other. I personally dislike a table small enough that I can easily play footsie with the guy across from me. Plus, if the table has speedcloth, it is pretty easy to deal long distances. My 2 cents.
Dealing isn't the issue, its seeing, and more importantly raking in chips. Hard to do if you have to stand up each time you take a pot... I'd feel like I was attending a Catholic Church.
At just about any non-octagon table, I don't believe you can expect those at the end seats to rake in anything without standing up or having chips pushed to them. Our red oval table, seating 10, is 48" across in the middle and works very well. People have the necessary leg room and their is space for the pot in the center. At the far ends, yes, people may not see the cards of the person at the other far end, but I experience that same thing when I play in a casino.
Mrs. PZ,
In self dealt games I've played on 48" tables, it always seems as if the players helping to push the pots have to "hike" themselves up off their chairs slightly, or lean over to reach the chippies. This is much less pronounced with a 44" table.
The 48" vs 44" width debate has been well vetted on several different table building forums, and I think most table builders would advise that an "ideal" poker table width is less than 48". The OP would be wise to listen to Tony on this (he is, after all without question, one of the most experienced table builders on this site).
I think your point on leg room is 100% valid though, and I wouldn't want a table so narrow that I'm playing footsie with the person opposite me. So I think the OP would be wise to consider your advice on this aspect. Or get pedestal legs (with a stringer) for added separation.
In self dealt games I've played on 48" tables, it always seems as if the players helping to push the pots have to "hike" themselves up off their chairs slightly, or lean over to reach the chippies. This is much less pronounced with a 44" table.
The 48" vs 44" width debate has been well vetted on several different table building forums, and I think most table builders would advise that an "ideal" poker table width is less than 48". The OP would be wise to listen to Tony on this (he is, after all without question, one of the most experienced table builders on this site).
I think your point on leg room is 100% valid though, and I wouldn't want a table so narrow that I'm playing footsie with the person opposite me. So I think the OP would be wise to consider your advice on this aspect. Or get pedestal legs (with a stringer) for added separation.
celticnoel79
High Hand
I find that 44" is of optimum length for a full sized table, my next table width is gonna be 42" for a number of reasons but that is fine also. Look forward to seeing some pics!
For how many people? I ask as I'm trying to picture the full shape. Plus, I'm sure at some point PZ is going to build a new one and I can then be armed with information!
Also, I too look forward to pictures.
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I've built both (44" and 42" wide). I tend to like the 44" wide version a tad better, but didn't find the 42" necessarily shallow (somewhat depends on the rail width). I believe I've fit 10 people around both tables just fine (really depends on your chairs).
My current table is 44" x 92" (not a full 8'), and I can even fit 10 people using my crazy wide (like 26") red chairs (but it's snug, and I usually start out recruiting for 9 players, but will take 10 if I get an extra player show up). Using a banquette chairs (like the 19" black ones shown) would make this way easier IMHO.
Custom logo? That's @T_Chan all the way.
9' long? Sheesh. That's a LONG table. Does the customer give any reason for wanting it that long? To be honest, if I were building this for someone else, and they wanted it 9' long, I'd probably add 50-75% more to the cost estimate. Hopefully, Tony will weigh in here.
ps.
Extra costs would involve the difficulty in finding 9' long lumber, and the installation of a camera/monitor system, so people can see the cards at the other end of the table (unless said customer is a casino, then double the estimate and forgo the cameras)
9' long? Sheesh. That's a LONG table. Does the customer give any reason for wanting it that long? To be honest, if I were building this for someone else, and they wanted it 9' long, I'd probably add 50-75% more to the cost estimate. Hopefully, Tony will weigh in here.
ps.
Extra costs would involve the difficulty in finding 9' long lumber, and the installation of a camera/monitor system, so people can see the cards at the other end of the table (unless said customer is a casino, then double the estimate and forgo the cameras)
9' long? Is it for giants or 20 people?
You can certainly get a custom logo and cloth from me. Prices here: http://www.pokerchipforum.com/threads/custom-cloths.3661/
9' is unneccessarillyy long. Unless he's going 14 handed.. 48"x96" gives 11 players 22.4" of rail space. That's a comfortable amount if he's wanting a 10 + dealer table. For just 10 players, 44x96 is nice and spacey.
If he's set on the 9' though, you can get 9' or 10' long plywood usually at specialty plywood stores. Or you can splice 2 sheets of plywood together. Provided you alternate which end has the splice for the base & the rail, once the table is attached to the rail it will become quite sturdy.
After building over 100 tables, I've only done 1 that was longer than 8' (other than some baccarat tables). Not many reasons to go over 8'.
9' is unneccessarillyy long. Unless he's going 14 handed.. 48"x96" gives 11 players 22.4" of rail space. That's a comfortable amount if he's wanting a 10 + dealer table. For just 10 players, 44x96 is nice and spacey.
If he's set on the 9' though, you can get 9' or 10' long plywood usually at specialty plywood stores. Or you can splice 2 sheets of plywood together. Provided you alternate which end has the splice for the base & the rail, once the table is attached to the rail it will become quite sturdy.
After building over 100 tables, I've only done 1 that was longer than 8' (other than some baccarat tables). Not many reasons to go over 8'.
Mr Tree
Straight Flush
Everyone in their game must be Ben sized.
Then the OP should be helping his client with higher ceilings, not wider tables...
ParrotheadMZ
Flush
The table turned out great. Might have to make the drive someday.
celticnoel79
High Hand
Im loving that set up you got there mate, absolute top notch!
Junior24xx
Straight
44" wide is better than 48" wide IMHO
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