Tourney More tourney chip questions/help (1 Viewer)

gmansbu

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I host a weekly cash game and we’re starting to transition from all cash to occasional tournaments.

My cash game is $1/$2. So all my chips are setup for this. Another PCFer was nice enough to make me a starting stack and blind schedule that works with my existing chip sets.

I would like to switch to a traditional tourney setup and buy some new chips.

We typically only have 10 guys, but I would like to have a setup for 20 guys with rebuys etc. We would like the game to last 3-4 hours if that matters.

Does the most popular tournament structure start with a base t25 with $10k starting stacks? I’m assuming I can find standard blind schedules?

How about chip quantities for this structure to accommodate up to two tables? Do I need t5000 if I only need up to 20 guys? I like chips on the table but I also don’t want it to be annoying.

Thanks guys.
 
I host a weekly cash game and we’re starting to transition from all cash to occasional tournaments.

My cash game is $1/$2. So all my chips are setup for this. Another PCFer was nice enough to make me a starting stack and blind schedule that works with my existing chip sets.

I would like to switch to a traditional tourney setup and buy some new chips.

We typically only have 10 guys, but I would like to have a setup for 20 guys with rebuys etc. We would like the game to last 3-4 hours if that matters.

Does the most popular tournament structure start with a base t25 with $10k starting stacks? I’m assuming I can find standard blind schedules?

How about chip quantities for this structure to accommodate up to two tables? Do I need t5000 if I only need up to 20 guys? I like chips on the table but I also don’t want it to be annoying.

Thanks guys.

There is a guide to chip ordering here https://www.pokerchipforum.com/resources/poker-set-selection-tool.90/

If going t25 based, then you decide if playing 20k freezeouts, rebuts etc or 5-10k freezeouts/rebuy tourney etc.

If planning a 2 table tournament set with a t25 base the key numbers for t25 and t100 chips base on multiples of 8. So 1 table requires 8 of each minimum, with two tables you will want 160 total, allowing for single table base stacks up to 16xt25 or t100 while the extra chips give you the option to expand for more guests. Likewise 240, t25 and t100 will let you have both 12xt25, 12xt100 for two table or 3 tables of 8xt25, 8xt100.

I like t25 most, I prefer 5000ncv starting stacks to the traditional 20k tournies often mentioned here. I generally have rebuys/addons and this type of game moves well to allow for additional games in the same day.
 
Does the most popular tournament structure start with a base t25 with $10k starting stacks? I’m assuming I can find standard blind schedules?

I think this was true when the WSOP exploded in the early 2000s, the format at that time was T10K starting stacks with blinds starting at 25-50. Every poker room started emulating that for their tournaments.

There is probably a case that base T100 is more popular now (even the WSOP has converted to this). I am personally partial to base T500 myself, but whatever base you use I have a good method for generating good structures.

Levels using chip multiples
I this of tournament levels as multiples of 2-4, 3-6, 4-8, 6-12, and 8-16 for each denomination in use, with optional 1-1, 1-2, and 1-3 levels for the first denomination in play at the start. (The WSOP structure is more like multiplying denominations by 2-4, 3-6, 4-8, 5-10, 6-12, 8-16, 10-20, 12-24 for a slower effect.)

So basically you use those multiples for each chip and reset every time you reach 2-4 of the next chip.

So if you do base T100 for example, you could write levels like this using my multiples on chips with denoms T100/T500/T1000/T5000.

100-200, 100-300, 200-400, 300-600, 400-800, 600-1200, 800-1600 (color up and multiply by T500 below)
1000-2000, 1500-3000 (color up and multiply by T1000)
2K-4K, 3K-6K, 4K-8K, 6K-12K, 8K-16K (color up and multiply by T5000)
10K-20K, 15K-30K, 20K-40K, 30K-60K, 40K-80K

Planning your set

So now you have to figure out your ideal starting stack. 200BB starting stacks are common, so if you are thinking base T100, you probably want to plan for T40K starting stacks. That would look something like the following.

(T100/500/1K/5K)
10/4/7/6
15/5/11/5

Multiply those starting stacks by the number of players you would want to support. So if you figure you can do 20 players with the 15/5/11/5 stack, you would buy 300/100/220/100, a total of 720 for your starting stacks.

Then you add extra high-denomination chips to support re-entries and color-ups. In this case, I might suggest an extra 60 of the T5K chips and 20 T25K chips to make an even 800. That's enough to support 23 re-entries plus leave enough for color-ups. This also will be enough to support a 30 player tournament using the smaller 10/4/7/6 stacks.

So basically, figure out your needed starting stack first. Then plan higher denomination chips to support re-entries. This process works no matter what base and starting stack you select.

Hope this helps,
 
@JustinInMN’s post has lots of excellent advice. I’ll just add a few nuances from my game, which is very similar to what you are putting together.

First, I use a T25 base for two relatively unimportant reasons: (1) I tend to really like green chips, which usually are T25s, and (2) I just like having more chips on the table. That being said, I started with a T100 base in the beginning in order to save money and space with a smaller chip set. Both worked perfectly fine.

Second, on blind levels:

Levels using chip multiples
I this of tournament levels as multiples of 2-4, 3-6, 4-8, 6-12, and 8-16 for each denomination in use, with optional 1-1, 1-2, and 1-3 levels for the first denomination in play at the start.

So basically you use those multiples for each chip and reset every time you reach 2-4 of the next chip.

So if you do base T100 for example, you could write levels like this using my multiples on chips with denoms T100/T500/T1000/T5000.

100-200, 100-300, 200-400, 300-600, 400-800, 600-1200, 800-1600 (color up and multiply by T500 below)
1000-2000, 1500-3000 (color up and multiply by T1000)
2K-4K, 3K-6K, 4K-8K, 6K-12K, 8K-16K (color up and multiply by T5000)
10K-20K, 15K-30K, 20K-40K, 30K-60K, 40K-80K

Through a lot of trial-and-error (and math), I actually came upon this exact same structure, which I think is pretty ideal for most purposes. If you use a T25 structure, starting blinds of 50/100, starting stack of 10K (100 bbs), and end up with only 15 buy-ins or so (including rebuys), this structure could let you finish in 3-4 hours if you use 15-minute levels. However, if you want deeper stacks, longer levels, or a larger number of players/rebuys, and you still want to end in 3-4 hours, you will need a different structure for your blind levels.

This is exactly the problem I ran into with my game. I have 15 to 20 players each game, plus rebuys, but everyone wants to be done in 3-3.5 hours. So I dug around on PCF and found a turbo-ish structure posted in an old forum by @BGinGA, who I now consider to be my tournament structure guru. This is the blind structure we use now for our games when we need to be done in 3-4 hours but have something like 200,000 to 400,000 chips in play (the blind amounts are not nearly as neat/natural as the structure above, but you have to do something to get the blinds up faster, and this does the trick):

50/100; 75/150; 125/250; 200/400; 300/600
500/1000; 800/1600; 1200/2400; 2000/4000; 3000/6000
5000/10000; 8000/16000; etc.

We use 15K stacks and still wrap up in about 3.5 hours, except in nights where we have over 20 people and/or really long heads-up battles.
 
Also, if you are new to hosting tournaments, I can’t recommend highly enough Chris Manzoni’s YouTube videos: https://youtube.com/@chrismanzoni3586

He has a bunch of videos on chips too, but I got the most value out of the Home Poker Tutorials playlist, especially Videos 18 (starting stack/blind structure), 19 (coloring up), and 25 (seating issues, like balancing and breaking tables). I think he also has a video on how to do bounty tournaments. I don’t do everything that he suggests (among other things, I prefer 12/12/5/7/x stacks to the 8/8/6/6/X stacks that he recommends), but it’s a great place to start from as you use trial and error to hone what you want in your own game.
 
Also, if you are new to hosting tournaments, I can’t recommend highly enough Chris Manzoni’s YouTube videos: https://youtube.com/@chrismanzoni3586

He has a bunch of videos on chips too, but I got the most value out of the Home Poker Tutorials playlist, especially Videos 18 (starting stack/blind structure), 19 (coloring up), and 25 (seating issues, like balancing and breaking tables). I think he also has a video on how to do bounty tournaments. I don’t do everything that he suggests (among other things, I prefer 12/12/5/7/x stacks to the 8/8/6/6/X stacks that he recommends), but it’s a great place to start from as you use trial and error to hone what you want in your own game.
@Chris Manzoni is a PCF treasure.
 
He really is. @Chris Manzoni is the reason I found this amazing PCF community. One year ago, I had been hosting the occasional ad hoc poker game for about 2-3 years, using dice chips and Bicycle cards, struggling to come up with blind/stack/payout structures on the fly (or just using the defaults from tournament management apps), and averaging 8-10 players (with the occasional 11- or 12-player game).

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I stumbled upon Chris’s videos while trying to improve my structure, then found PCF, then CPC, and the rest is history. Now, thanks in large part to Chris and this community, we have a regular game every 6-8 weeks, we are four games into our first league/season, we average 15-20 players per game (with 26 unique players having attended at least one game this season, and another 5-8 on our list who haven’t yet been able to attend a game). The players love the upgrade to denominated chips (just using Monaco ABS chips for now, but I’ve got my first fully custom CPC set on the way any day now), custom table toppers from @rjdev7 , a Shuffletech, a homemade cabinet for the chips/cash/Shuffletech, and most of all the predictable structure that works perfectly for our very casual/inexperienced group of players who want to play, chat, and have fun for 3-4 hours and then go home.

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Apologies for derailing the thread, but I was struck by the urge to express my appreciation for Chris, Ryan, CPC, and the rest of this community. Y‘all have contributed to a lot of joy for me, my family, and my friends.
 
Gmansbu, I’ll give you my take on your original post.

I don’t know what a “traditional tourney” setup really is. There are so many ways to run a tournament and a lot of tournament structures. The WSOP Main Event used to have T10,000 in chips and start at 25/50, so a total of 200 BB. Then I think they went to T30,000 in chips, and it’s changed more. When I first started hosting tournaments, we duplicated the WSOP starting stacks and 200BB. I was shooting for a 4-hr tournament (playing time). I believe the starting stacks were 12x25; 7x100; 2x500; 3x1,000; and 1x5,000. The stack was 25 chips. Then they changed to 8x25; 8x100; 2x500; 3x1,000; and 1x5,000 – 22 chips. I tried both formats. Perhaps that is what people mean by traditional tournament.

I think it makes for a better player experience if you don’t have half the starting chip value in one chip, but I had to learn that through experience.

Getting a setup for 20 players makes sense, but I’d consider the possibility that your game will grow. There are 3 ways your game can grow that will affect a chipset purchase.
  • More players and needing more chips to accommodate those players.
  • More buy-ins per player. Things like rebuys, add-ons, and bonus chips will require more chips.
  • Larger starting stacks. Down through the years, I’ve done 200BB, 300BB, 400BB, and 500BB for “regular” tournaments. What I found is players seem to prefer the larger starting stacks. To keep the game at 4 hours, I just made the blinds structure more aggressive. See below on this.
  • There can be a combination of all of these things that will affect the chipset size.
Players can be funny. I played someone else’s game for a while. They started with 15K instead of 10K. I decided to go to 15K, and my players loved it! That inspired me to try something else, so I experimented with 25K – 500BB. Players liked the bigger chip stack even better. Then I went to 40K starting chips, but started at 50/100, so 400BB. Players really liked that structure. I found it humorous that some would say they loved how many starting chips we had, but we’d effectively reduced it from 500BB to 400BB. But throughout this process, I kept to a 4-hour playing time. Some players didn’t realize we reduced the starting BB. They look only at the total starting chips. By itself, that means nothing. Chip stacks are always in the context of the blinds, and it tournaments, that changes every time the blinds go up.

I would have T5,000 in the chipset! Your structure will dictate the need, but realistically, if you are thinking of rebuys, or the tournament goes longer than expected, you will want higher value chips. My suggestion is to buy at least some chips that are 1 value higher than your intended format.

The more chip values, the more flexible your set is. I have 2 tournament sets right now. One is 1675 chips and the other is 1700 chips. Due to being required to buy the 1675 set in blocks of 25, it has more bank (total chip value) than the 1700 set. Both sets were designed for 30 players, but also designed to accommodate up to 40 players by reducing the number of chips in the starting stacks. You can be creative and not giving everyone identical stacks as long as the total value is the same. I had a plan to do that if I got more than 27 players. My home would be limited to 3 tables of 10, though I no longer use 3 tables. Therefore, I never had to try varying chip stacks. Having a plan for it though would allow me to actually accommodate up to 45 players.

Your game is likely to change. If you play other games, you will see new things to you that you want to try. Your players will come up with suggestions you might want to try.

Developing a good tournament structure is a science. Once you understand the factors and how they work, you can develop a structure with almost any starting stacks and starting blinds to go 3-4 hours. What I’ve tried to do is have a good experience for the players. That is not necessarily a goal of commercial tournaments.

There are five factors that determine the length of your tournament. Alter one and you alter the tournament time. The factors, in no particular order, are:

The ratio of starting chips to the big blind (SC/BB) – Here’s something I heard some years ago. A tournament is deep stacked if over 150 BB, very short stacked at 100 BB. A player is considered to be competitive at 50 BB, short stacked at 30 BB, seriously short stacked at 20 BB, and desperately short stacked at 10 BB. By itself, this is a good guide, but this is somewhat in a vacuum. You have to look at the average blind increases too.

Average blind increases – The average of how rapidly blinds go up. Most people use increases of 1.25-1.67 (25% to 67% increases) and think 2.0 or higher is too high. Three basic philosophies are [a] consistent increases, start slow and increase, and [c] start fast and decrease. Every good tournament follows one of these 3 basics or a variation of them. If blind creases are all over the place, it can be predictable regarding time, but it’s like driving on a really bumpy road.

Length of rounds and time per hand -- 1 hour or more per round is considered slow; 20-30 minutes is about average, 15 or less very fast, and under 10, lightning fast. Most calculations of times I’ve seen use an average hand time of about 2 minutes, so anything less than 2 minutes per player at maximum players per table is probably too fast as it doesn’t give every player a chance at every position every round. Generally tournaments are calculated using the 2 minutes per hand assumption, even if people don’t realize that is the assumption.

Note: Not every group plays at 2 minutes a hand. If the pace is slower, you have to adjust for this. If it takes 3 minutes a hand, your blinds must be 50% longer to end at a particular blind level. Reality is that tournaments need a certain number of hands more than a certain number of blind rounds.

Think about a 60-minute football game. If the average play takes 30 seconds, the game will last about 120 plays. If the average play takes 20 seconds, the game will last about 180 plays. Those two paces are very different. There will be more of everything in the second game – more plays, more yards, more points, etc. Poker tournaments are the same way. If you know the average hand length in your group, you can calculate more accurately.


Number of players – It takes longer for more players to be eliminated. However, this is not a straight-line ratio. If you have half as many players as anticipated, that doesn’t mean the tournament will only last half as long.

Fewer players tend to play longer per player in my experience. I’ve been calculating average time per player for several years, and this is very consistent. The more players you have, the sooner knockouts start happening. While my measurements have been done with no more than 3 tables, what I’ve found is that it takes less than 30 minutes average playing time to eliminate twice as many players.

Total chip count and BB (big blinds) in tournament -- Two different formulas can determine how long a tournament will last. One is when Antes (A), Small Blind (S), and Big Blind (B) added together equals 5% of the total amount of chips in play (T), the tournament will end. This is expressed in several ways, but one is A+S+B = T*.05. A second formula is when B equals 5%, expressed as B=T*.05. My experience is these are good outside parameters and the actual time is likely to fall in between these times the vast majority (80-90%) of the time.

Allowing rebuys, add-ons, bonuses, etc., affects the total chip count and therefore the length of the tournament. What really counts though, is the number of big blinds these things add at the time they occur. For example: If you have a tournament with starting stacks of 200BB, and about halfway through, players could do an add-on of the same amount, then you have to look at how many additional BB that is right then. If that add-on is 20 more BB, to accurately account for that, you calculate the starting stacks with 220 BB instead of 200.

Doubling the starting stacks does not double the length of the tournament. A rebuy will add a little bit to the tournament time, but its timing is important. A rebuy at the 1 hour mark will lengthen the tournament more than if it’s at the 3 hour mark.

Note: I’ve been tracking this for several years. If I plan on a 4-hour tournament (20 minute playing rounds), I’ve found that over 80% of the time that tournament will last within one round of the planned ending time.

These five factors work together. None can be ignored. Changing any one of them will affect the length of a tournament. The five main factors in tournament design lead to how good the tournament structure is.

There are several PCFers who can develop good structures, and there are programs that can do it for you. I’ve developed many structures I’m happy to share, but I’ve never figured out how to post them on the forum. I use an Excel spreadsheet to help you create your own that will last the length of time you want it to last.
 
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