Final Design (1 Viewer)

TomC727

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I narrowed my next set to these 5 options.

Please vote on poll thread.

The color schemes are based off of the Chicago White Sox colors over the last 100 years.


Ordering within the week.
34D77281-2A7A-4898-A470-59B533D8243E.jpeg
259135F8-3A10-49F5-80B6-7C95BBA4630B.jpeg
3D87FE39-1D69-45D5-9FDF-2157CC844226.jpeg

0AE0A7FA-B624-40E0-A017-9B56B4DDBCA2.jpeg
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Some very nice chips in all the sets.

I would worry about dirty stacks with the $1 &$100. Unless you almost never get $100’s in play that a few will be prized stack cappers.

also, why a different design for the $25?
 
Is there a reason why the 25 design is different than the rest?
 
Is there a reason why the 25 design is different than the rest?
Yes. In the history of the Chicago White Sox, they have never had green in any logo whatsoever except for a green pinstripe jersey to commemorate St. Patrick's Day. Because of this, the green chip was designed to give homage to their famous exploding scoreboard, initially built in the '50's under their owner Bill Veeck. The green chip is commemorating one of the pinwheels on their scoreboard, hence the scoreboard in the inlay design.
 
Yes. In the history of the Chicago White Sox, they have never had green in any logo whatsoever except for a green pinstripe jersey to commemorate St. Patrick's Day. Because of this, the green chip was designed to give homage to their famous exploding scoreboard, initially built in the '50's under their owner Bill Veeck. The green chip is commemorating one of the pinwheels on their scoreboard, hence the scoreboard in the inlay design.
exploding scoreboard.jpg
 
Some very nice chips in all the sets.

I would worry about dirty stacks with the $1 &$100. Unless you almost never get $100’s in play that a few will be prized stack cappers.

also, why a different design for the $25?
Extremely rare to have a black in play.
And reason for the different green is explained above.
 
I am leaning toward design 1 (blue 4V12 with white 1/8 in dark blue 1/2 edge spot) and complex red.

the other design that I like is the red 1/8 in the blue chip, though I feel the red clashes with the light blue chip.

I’m leaning away from the 4V12 red chip because of a similar cash set design I own with a lot of 4V12 edge spot designs in it. This will be the first chip set (in all my life) that will have a light blue chip.
 
I feel like others may be thinking it.. do you have to have both a $5 and $10 chip? I get some people don't play fracs but a slightly simplified edge spot on that blue as a frac would be pretty sweet and maybe take away from all the white spots. I understand the theme but a lot of repeating white in there!

Just thinking out loud but cool design so far!

Fellow Chipper Ben
 
The reason for the $10 blue is that light blue chip is that light blue was a major color in the team’s late past. It was difficult to incorporate it in other chip colors.

the blue is definitely going to get more use than the green or black.
 
The blue is good. Very good. The $10 denom isn't.

Make the blue the $25 for inlay consistency and then turn the green chip into a special non-denom chip.

It's a custom set with denoms on them. You don't "need" traditional colors.
My OCD kicks in without traditional colors. LOL
 
Another option I’m toying with is decreasing the blue and adding more green, so they just don’t get as much play.

was planning on making this a 600 chip set

150, 150, 150, 100, 50 (white red blue green black) but I can change it to 150 200 100 100 50

lot of ideas here. Thanks for all the input.

currently really like the 4v12 blue and the 1/8 on the red with no white.

that may be my final design.
 
All sounds good, but again curious. You say you will not get many $25s or hundos in play but you are playing $1/$2 correct? I could see not getting as many high denoms in play if you were playing $.25/$.50. But typically with that number of lower denoms you are definitely going to get into the $25s and up with rebuys. Just a bit confused.

I would say a standard $1/$2 set would be around
(200) $1
(300) $5
(180) $25
(20) $100

Something along those lines... but if trying to keep to 600 chips. Cut the $25s to (80) and $100s to (20)

You said they probably will not get much play but you are planning on buying a bunch of the higher denoms according to your break down. I would concentrate on more of your work horse chips and less up top.

Again just thinkin out loud sir!
 
The red chip requires some white besides the blue, either in 4V12 or 4TA418 form.
The black hundo does need some more color, even if it's not going to really play en-masse with the $1. Probably Lavender and Gray spots?
The $10 is beautiful in any version, but it would only make sense in a fractional-blinds game as top-value chip, and I can see no frac. Unless you 're using the denoms as dimes.
Otherwise, you 're good.
Sleep on them.
 
The red chip requires some white besides the blue, either in 4V12 or 4TA418 form.
The black hundo does need some more color, even if it's not going to really play en-masse with the $1. Probably Lavender and Gray spots?
The $10 is beautiful in any version, but it would only make sense in a fractional-blinds game as top-value chip, and I can see no frac. Unless you 're using the denoms as dimes.
Otherwise, you 're good.
Sleep on them.
image.jpg
 
All sounds good, but again curious. You say you will not get many $25s or hundos in play but you are playing $1/$2 correct? I could see not getting as many high denoms in play if you were playing $.25/$.50. But typically with that number of lower denoms you are definitely going to get into the $25s and up with rebuys. Just a bit confused.

I would say a standard $1/$2 set would be around
(200) $1
(300) $5
(180) $25
(20) $100

Something along those lines... but if trying to keep to 600 chips. Cut the $25s to (80) and $100s to (20)

You said they probably will not get much play but you are planning on buying a bunch of the higher denoms according to your break down. I would concentrate on more of your work horse chips and less up top.

Again just thinkin out loud sir!
I think my breakdown is going to be 200 200 50 100 50 (I prefer to keep in breakdowns of 25 for case organization sake).

currently, probably will end up sticking with the blue $10 chip, but a lower amount.

I’m not sure how my future cash games will end up, but I could see 25’s getting a fair amount of play, depending on what buy ins turn into.

my next decision will be white in the red chip or not. I’ve played with both and liked both, though I also like the blue and red only with no white.
 
I 'd still go with a 4TA418 red chip; it's only level 9 cost-wise, in relation to the level 11 414418.

I'd basically go with your third iteration among the original three, with the adaptation of the hundo included.
("cause the $10 without some extra color risks dirty-stacking with the $1 too)
 
I 'd still go with a 4TA418 red chip; it's only level 9 cost-wise, in relation to the level 11 414418.

I'd basically go with your third iteration among the original three, with the adaptation of the hundo included.
("cause the $10 without some extra color risks dirty-stacking with the $1 too)
Going to avoid the lavender even though I like it. To stay consistent, I’m going to stay away from any color not associated with the White Sox.

I’m liking this - gray and charcoal on hundo. 4TA on the red to give some white in it.

only white is in red and blue. Did away with white in hundo

image.jpg
 
I’m really liking the final design above.

Here is a question for the group. Would changing the blue to a 25cent piece make more sense instead of the $10 denomination. That would most likely be my other option
 
Ok. Another option. Simplified the blue and made it a 25 cent piece.

Final 2 designs.

080ACA3F-1A1D-4CDA-A7B0-07A598134061.png
9A3CF06A-ECEA-426A-9892-89CDC8A830C5.jpeg

Nice looking set but not a fan of the $25
It is designed to look like a pinwheel from the White Sox exploding scoreboard. Very different from the rest of the chip patterns.
 
Functionally, the fracs are going to be a lot more useful than the $10s, if you 're using indeed the denoms as such, and not as dimes.
Because you never know, and because you already seem to not be badly needing fracs, make them non-denominated, so they can be used as either .25s or .50s. (Edit: or even $10s :D )
I insist they should have some more color into them, to avoid dirty stack issues, especially playing side-by-side with $1s (so 4V12 with the small spots either Retro Red, or Mandarin, or DG Peach or DG Tiger).
I also insist the $100s should have some color, namely Lavender, but it's your set and your money.
 
Functionally, the fracs are going to be a lot more useful than the $10s, if you 're using indeed the denoms as such, and not as dimes.
Because you never know, and because you already seem to not be badly needing fracs, make them non-denominated, so they can be used as either .25s or .50s. (Edit: or even $10s :D )
I insist they should have some more color into them, to avoid dirty stack issues, especially playing side-by-side with $1s (so 4V12 with the small spots either Retro Red, or Mandarin, or DG Peach or DG Tiger).
I also insist the $100s should have some color, namely Lavender, but it's your set and your money.
I tried the day glow and loved it. Problem is the color really sticks out really messes up the chip scheme.

This may be a better option and it keeps the 25 cent simpler and allows the higher denominations to build.
66989A66-E07F-4D99-9893-D18A661A49C2.png
 

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