Efficiency of chip breakdown for T25 Tournament Set

TX_Golf_N_Poker

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I'm seriously considering the Prestige Group Buy. Previously my thinking on a tournament set was similar to my thinking before buying a used 8V china clay cash set. Nice looking chips for not a lot of money. So china clays, or maybe even slugged chips. 700+ chips and keep it around $200, or a lot less if I went slugged. Then the Prestige GB happened!

Now I can get a cool forever set of chips, I can get them partially customized, pick my colors, pick my denominations, put a name on the label that's meaningful to me. Yeah, I'll bust the budget a little, but if I choose wisely, I don't have to bust it by that much.

So here are some considerations and requirements:
  • Try to keep total number of playing chips around 400. Less if possible.
  • T25. I've played around with it, and I know I can get less chips with a T100 structure, or maybe even a T5, but I don't like the way the blinds are structured early in T100. I'm planning on starting with a T25. You're welcome to try and change my mind, but I don't think you will.
  • Expectation is that I only need chips for STT. 10 players max. If I grow later, then poker has become a bigger part of my life, and I'll open the wallet and buy another set.
  • BUT, because these are custom, and have my own name on them, I want them to be usable for a lifetime. So I want enough chips, but not so many that I have unused chips.
  • Is there one BEST starting stack size for T25? Or do I want flexibility within the set to cover multiple stacks such as 10K, 12K, and 20K? Flexibility may require a few more chips.
  • I'm planning on going with a T2000 instead of a T1000. I know it's disliked by some, but we are aiming for maximum efficiency here, so I think it's the right thing to do.
Starting stack - 12K - 240BB
T25 x 12
T100 x 12
T500 x 5
T2000 x 4

Ten starting stacks - 330 chips

I realize I could have less chips if I started with 8 T25 instead of 12. This sounds like a nightmare on a 10 player table with making change all the time until they are colored up. Same with starting with less T100.

Allow for rebuys
T500 x 4
T 2000 x 5

Five rebuys - 45 chips. Any more can use a T10K.

Color ups: T2000 x 9

Minimum: Round up to:
T25 x 120 130
T100 x 120 130
T500 x 70 80
T2000 x 74 80
T10K x 0 20

Min = 384 Total = 440 Net total right about $325 with 2 DBs. Oh, I'm leaning towards going with 43mm for the whole set.

I'm not going to buy the bare minimum. These chips cannot be replaced, at least not easily or at a much higher cost. If I lost one chip, then I couldn't play 10 players anymore without adjusting to some weird stack amount. 40 chips is an extra $24. I'm cheap, but I'm not THAT cheap! :D I want this set to last forever!

So is this all fairly rational? How can it be improved, keeping within my requirements? Are any of my assumptions invalid?

Ready, set, GO!
 
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upNdown

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You seem set on a T25, but I'd like to add this. T100 has quickly become standard. That has a lot to do with antes (big blind antes more specifically) and if you feel strongly that a home, single table tournament doesn't need antes, I'm not going to try to argue that point. But I prefer to structure tournaments as close to what people will see in cardrooms and casinos as possible. And when that can be done more efficiently with a T100, a guy who's concerned about chip efficiency should give it due consideration.
A couple of years ago, I scoffed at the T100 and it's odd early blind structure, and I thought I'd be T25 for life. Now, I prefer T100.
A friendly two cents, that is all.
 

TX_Golf_N_Poker

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You seem set on a T25, but I'd like to add this. T100 has quickly become standard. That has a lot to do with antes (big blind antes more specifically) and if you feel strongly that a home, single table tournament doesn't need antes, I'm not going to try to argue that point. But I prefer to structure tournaments as close to what people will see in cardrooms and casinos as possible. And when that can be done more efficiently with a T100, a guy who's concerned about chip efficiency should give it due consideration.
A couple of years ago, I scoffed at the T100 and it's odd early blind structure, and I thought I'd be T25 for life. Now, I prefer T100.
A friendly two cents, that is all.
Valid points. Thanks! I need to go read up on the big blind antes. I will say that the majority of the poker players I know that I will begin playing home games with don't play in cardrooms and casinos. Some are pretty much novices. I do have a couple of friends who play in cardrooms, and I'm not comfortable playing for the kind of money those guys play for. A poker night at my place will entail a $20-30 Buy-in tournament followed by a .25/.50 cash game, or maybe even a .05/.10 cash game.
 

Solanthos

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You can still make a solid structure out of T100 base. Typical slower tournament structures for T100 base w/ big blind ante with 15k+ starting stacks that allow for a decent amount of play are:

100/100
100/100/100
100/200/200
200/300/300
200/400/400
2/5/5 or 3/5/5
3/6/6
4/8/8
etc.

I definitely understand the love for T25 base, you have a lot more options and versatility for how you increase the blinds and raises can be smaller...

However, the T100 makes for less changing chips when someone bets 125 and 3 people call with 200. It also makes for faster play (good) because bet and raise sizes are a little more restricted in the early levels (maybe bad). If you're definitely going to use antes, you should use BBA... trust me, the lack of upkeep and nagging every player every hand is so refreshing, and there are minimal strategy changes.

If you have a group that doesn't necessarily play in casinos and tournaments regularly, you totally don't have to do antes at all. The point of antes is to juice the pot with chips to give people a reason to try to get those chips, but that stimulus isn't necessary when your common hand is limped 7 ways or raise and 5 calls, which is common for the kinds of home games you mention. :)
 

Solanthos

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Oh, since I missed the actual point:

10k @ 25/50 starting blinds (200BB starting stacks)
8 x 25
8 x 100
4 x 500
7 x 1000

10 players = 80+80+40+70= 270 chips... then add the 5ks and maybe 25ks for color ups... 20+20+10+10...?

OR:

15k @ 100/100 blinds (150BBs)
10 x 100
6 x 500
11 x 1000

270 chips... then add 5ks and 25ks...
Or add one 5k chip per stack to get 20k starting stacks (200bbs)
 
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I had the same thoughts some weeks ago ... this video gave me a lot of input:


I went with the following breakdown for my 400 set of Prestige in the sunfly group buy:

25 - 100
100 - 100
500 - 60
1000 - 80
5000 - 60

Starting stack is 12-12-5-6-2 fpr T20000 (optional: no 5000 chips for T10000) for up to 8 players and 8-8-6-6-2 for 10 players. Enough for one rebuy each and coloring up!

I also wante to have a T25 based set (we do not play with antes, so) so this was the right way to go!
 

TX_Golf_N_Poker

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@Solanthos I had originally suggested (in another thread) a structure like that beginning with 8-8. Several people said too much making of change with so few of the workhorse chips on the table. When the blinds are 75/150 you could have half of your 120 T25 chips on the table on one hand if everybody limped.

OK, did some reading up on T100 and BB Antes. See, this is why I did this. I know better than to have my mind made up before making a decision. If I were to go T100 - How does this look?

Starting Stack - T25K - 250BB
T100 x 15
T500 x 5
T1000 x 6
T5000 x 3

Yep, went back to traditional denoms for this example.

Rebuys - T1000 x 5, T5000 x 4, T10K x 1

290 starting stacks
60 for 6 rebuys
T5000 x 10 for color ups
50 extra chips

410 Total

T100 x 160
T500 x 60
T1000 x 100
T5000 x 70
T10K x 20

This is flexible enough to do starting stacks of 20K/25K/30K/35K
 

TX_Golf_N_Poker

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I had the same thoughts some weeks ago ... this video gave me a lot of input:


I went with the following breakdown for my 400 set of Prestige in the sunfly group buy:

25 - 100
100 - 100
500 - 60
1000 - 80
5000 - 60

Starting stack is 12-12-5-6-2 fpr T20000 (optional: no 5000 chips for T10000) for up to 8 players and 8-8-6-6-2 for 10 players. Enough for one rebuy each and coloring up!

I also wante to have a T25 based set (we do not play with antes, so) so this was the right way to go!
Thanks man! I had actually watched that a week or so ago. Might be why I was thinking 8-8 a while ago. So which is it? Is 8-8 a pain in the ass making change for the first few rounds? Or not that big of a deal? Let's hear some thoughts.
 

Solanthos

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Most casino tournaments (WSOP, WSOP-C, WPT) do 8/8 these days (or did when they ran T25)... 8/8/4 = 3k in one barrel, then they bring racks of yellows for the rest of the setup. It works just fine for them, but for a single-table, sure, you might want to put a few extra in play. Or if your players enjoy having tons of small chips so you can have mountains and heaps of chips. :)

For your 25k setup - I think that's mostly good, but I have a hard and fast rule about not having more than half your stack be in 5ks. I think you're better off going 11 1ks (or 10 and 7 500s) instead of running 3x5k. Making change for 5ks all the time is WAY more of a pain in the ass than occasionally making 25 chip change. (changing 25s is static - one chip for 4. Changing 5ks requires minimum 5 chips and typically that player will need a 1k broken down even further so you wind up changing one chip for 6-10 chips... if you only have 6 1ks per player, you're going to have a lot of situations where someone will have to give up most of their 1ks to break a 5k)
 

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Give this a read:

https://www.pokerchipforum.com/threads/arguments-against-t25-t100-t500-t2000-t10000-sets.38197/

My 2 cents: My tournament denoms are:

25/100/500/1000/2000/5k/10k/25k

where I sometimes use
25/100/500/1000/5000/25k
and sometimes
25/100/500/2000/10k

After trying both I definitely prefer the T1000 approach, but I like to mix it up and sometimes go the T2000 route.

IMO the consistent jumps of ×4/×5 are trumped by how natural it is to use a T1000.

I don't think it's that much more efficient with a T2k. In your OP you have 5 T500, which IMO is to few. I read somewhere that you should strive for having enough of each denom that it can cover 2 of the next denom, which 5 T500 fails to do. If you comply with this, then the T2k breakdown becomes less effective.

My 2 cents...
 

Mr Winberg

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8-8 a pain in the ass making change for the first few rounds? Or not that big of a deal?

I would say it wouldn't be a pain in the ass, but perhaps like an irritating itch which you aren't able to scratch because you didn't buy enough soap in the soap GB. If you go with 8/8, then however many chips you buy will dictate your maximum amount of players. If instead you go for 12/12, then there will be less change making and your game can grow by 50% (not taking the other denoms into consideration).

Starting Stack - T25K - 250BB
T100 x 15
T500 x 5
T1000 x 6
T5000 x 3

I think this would work. I think the "standard" would be only 10 T100, but I am personally in the MOAR > less camp.

I'd like to add regarding:
I read somewhere that you should strive for having enough of each denom that it can cover 2 of the next denom
that this becomes less important the higher relative value the chips has. 6 T1000 would be too few according to this recommendation, but I don't believe it is since the T1000 has so many chips "beneath it", so to say. The same applies to your T2k structure so maybe I was wrong there?
 

BGinGA

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Starting stack - 12K - 240BB
T25 x 12
T100 x 12
T500 x 5
T2000 x 4
This is not a very good starting stack breakdown for a set that uses T2000 chips -- you need many more T500s in play, since it is a workhorse chip when T1000 chips are not used.
:
Generally speaking, you need 10-12 chips each of the lowest two denominations, and 7-10 of the secondary workhorse chips in play (fewer starting chips are needed since the number of remaining players is smaller when they become necessary, and they can often be increased via color-ups). This is why the most commonly recommended starting stack size for T25-base is 12/12/5/6/x (using T1000s to color-up) and why T100-base stacks are commonly 10/8/10/5 or 10/6/11/5 (using T5000s to color-up).

This is a much better starting stack breakdown for a T25-base set that uses T2000 chips:
T25 x 12
T100 x 12
T500 x 9
T2000 x 3

while using T2000 chips for T25 and T100 color-ups. For a single-table event, the T500 chips will never get removed (they will still be needed for posting blinds), and T10000 chips will not see play (there simply aren't enough total chips in play to really warrant their use).

If you are interested in maximum efficiency in a small single-table set, then I'd suggest that you go with either T100- or T500-base, and discard the T2000 idea (more on this later).

Regarding your specific items listed, see below in red text:

So here are some considerations and requirements:
  • Try to keep total number of playing chips around 400. Less if possible. Check. See below for three versions of 400-chip set breakdowns.
  • T25. I've played around with it, and I know I can get less chips with a T100 structure, or maybe even a T5, but I don't like the way the blinds are structured early in T100. I'm planning on starting with a T25. You're welcome to try and change my mind, but I don't think you will. I think you get more bang-for-the-buck with a T100-base set, as fewer total low-denomination chips are needed, and hence fewer chips that see less play long-term. See below for how much bigger the set plays (relatively-speaking in terms of starting big blinds) for the same overall size set. Similarly, the T500-base set breakdown is perfectly efficient, with the flexibility to spread anywhere from T50K up to 300K stacks.
  • Expectation is that I only need chips for STT. 10 players max. If I grow later, then poker has become a bigger part of my life, and I'll open the wallet and buy another set. Check. See below for three versions of STT 10-max set breakdowns.
  • BUT, because these are custom, and have my own name on them, I want them to be usable for a lifetime. So I want enough chips, but not so many that I have unused chips. All of the breakdowns below can be used to structure events that utilize all of the chips in the set.
  • Is there one BEST starting stack size for T25? Or do I want flexibility within the set to cover multiple stacks such as 10K, 12K, and 20K? Flexibility may require a few more chips. Best size? No, because every starting stack size (combined with blind level progression and times) can create differing types of events as desired. Starting stack sizes are best thought of in terms of BB (big blinds), with can vary from 50BB (turbo) to 300BB (deepstack) and everything in-between (150BB-200BB is common and plenty to allow for meaningful play). All of the breakdowns below have this capability built-in.
  • I'm planning on going with a T2000 instead of a T1000. I know it's disliked by some, but we are aiming for maximum efficiency here, so I think it's the right thing to do. The only problem is that it is not advisable to use T2000 chips in a small single-table set. I've said this before -- T2000 chips play worse than T1000s unless the starting stacks are larger than T20K and/or with more than two tables (20K x 2-tables is the absolute minimum imo, and even that size event is basically an efficiency wash compared to using a T500/T1000 set). Don't get me wrong; I'm a big fan if T2000 chips.... but only when they can be efficiently utilized, and a single table set (especially a small one) does not meet that narrative. One reason is that you need a LOT more T500 chips in play when using T2000s (vs T1000s), since it becomes much more of a workhorse chip (due to no T1000 chips in play). In a typical T25- or T100-base set, you will never need to use more than one T500 chip to post a blind or make a bet, but in a set with T2000s, you will often need three times as many T500s and you will need them all the way to the end of the event. Another reason is that a small set will never have so many chips in play that the T10K chip is needed.

----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

A 400-chip single-table 10-player tournament set can be structured several ways. These are all proven breakdowns with efficient chip usage:

T25-base -- 12/12/5/6 T10K starting stacks (200BB with 25/50) and 100% re-buys, or up to T25K stacks (500BB) and no re-buys:
120 x T25
120 x T100
50 x T500
75 x T1000 (includes color-ups for T25/T100)
35 x T5000 (includes color-ups for T500 and re-buys/larger stacks)
------------
400 chips, with 80-110 chips in play at tournament end (32% highest denom)

T100-base -- 10/8/10/7 T50K starting stacks (250BB with 100/200) and 100% re-buys, or up to T100K (500BB) stacks and no re-buys
100 x T100
80 x T500
100 x T1000
95 x T5000 (includes color-ups for T100/T500 and re-buys)
25 x T25000 (includes color-ups for T1000 and re-buys/larger stacks)
------------
400 chips, with 95-120 chips in play at tournament end (29% highest denom)

T500-base -- 10/10/7/6 T200K starting stacks (200BB with 500/1000) and 50% re-buys, or up to T300K (300BB) stacks and no re-buys
100 x T500
100 x T1000
100 x T5000 (includes color-ups for T500/T1000
100 x T25000 (includes chips for re-buys/larger stacks)
------------
400 chips, with 160-200 chips in play at tournament end (37%-50% highest denom)

Fwiw, I consider 80 to 200 chips in play at tournament end to be sufficient, with the optimum number in the 120-160 range (2-3 barrels per player three-handed and 3-4 barrels per player heads-up).

----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Compare those three breakdowns above to a small T25-base set using T2000 chips:

T25-base (using T2000) -- 12/12/9/2 T10K starting stacks (200BB with 25/50) and 80% re-buys, or up to T18K stacks (360BB) and no re-buys:
120 x T25
120 x T100
90 x T500
70 x T2000 (includes color-ups for T25 and T100 and re-buys/larger stacks, 2 extras)
------------
400 chips, with 118-158 chips in play at tournament end (24%-44% highest denom)

T10K chips cannot be used for re-buys, because there are not sufficient chips in play to make change for them when introduced. For similar reasons, it is not advised to have a single chip in a starting stack being equal to 1/2 of the stack size (it's nearly impossible to break it down when needed), which means that the minimum starting stack size a T10K chip could be used is at least T26000 or larger (12/12/9/5/1). Keeping such a set under 400 chips would look like this:

T25-base (using T2000) -- 12/12/9/2 T10K starting stacks (200BB with 25/50) and 60% re-buys, or up to T26K stacks (520BB) and no re-buys:
120 x T25
120 x T100
90 x T500
60 x T2000 (includes color-ups for T25 and T100 and re-buys/larger stacks, 2 extras)
10 x T10000 (used for larger stacks only)
------------
400 chips, with 118-158 chips in play at tournament end (6% highest denom, but with with three denominations in play)

Finally, I found this from a similar thread (linked by @Mr Winberg above):
Only caveats I routinely advise on:
  • design a T2000 chip that is NOT a color generally associated with a T1000 -- that pretty much rules out yellow and orange, but pretty much anything else works fine (red, blue, white, etc.). Avoid using pink or gray too, as those are common T5000 colors. This helps avoids a lot of the confusion over the value of the chips in hand, since it's not readily-identified or associated by color.
  • T500-T2000 progression works best for larger stacks (20K+) or larger fields (20+). Small fields and small stacks really don't benefit much, and can actually play worse in some circumstances. Definitely not advised for 10 player x T10K stack events.
 

TX_Golf_N_Poker

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@BGinGA Abso-Freakin-Lutely Unbelievable answer!!! Thanks Dude! You're awesome!

I think it's going to take me all day to absorb everything you wrote. Maybe two days. :D
 

BGinGA

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OK, did some reading up on T100 and BB Antes. See, this is why I did this. I know better than to have my mind made up before making a decision. If I were to go T100 - How does this look?

Starting Stack - T25K - 250BB
T100 x 15
T500 x 5
T1000 x 6
T5000 x 3
This popped up during my composition last night, and I didn't see it until today.
I think it's going to take me all day to absorb everything you wrote. Maybe two days. :D
Sidebar:

If planning on a T100-base set that uses a BBA, it's a very good idea to increase the number of starting T100s from 10 to 15 chips. But be aware that the increase (50 extra T100s) will cause issues with keeping the set size small, and that additional T500s will also be needed to account for players being able to post the BBA when it increases in size to 500/1000/1500 along with the blinds. A properly designed T100-base/BBA single-table set probably needs to contain closer to 500 total chips. That may or may not influence your decision-making process.
 

upNdown

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This popped up during my composition last night, and I didn't see it until today.

Sidebar:

If planning on a T100-base set that uses a BBA, it's a very good idea to increase the number of starting T100s from 10 to 15 chips. But be aware that the increase (50 extra T100s) will cause issues with keeping the set size small, and that additional T500s will also be needed to account for players being able to post the BBA when it increases in size to 500/1000/1500 along with the blinds. A properly designed T100-base/BBA single-table set probably needs to contain closer to 500 total chips. That may or may not influence your decision-making process.
This is a fair point that I've never really considered. When I play T100 BBA in casinos and cardrooms, it's always 10 T100's per starting stack, because casinos are always going with the fewest number of chips that are reasonably playable. And when I think about it, T100's feel scarce for the first couple of hours, and there does seem to be a lot of changemaking. Usually there's a guy with a couple of barrels and half the table have none. It's no problem with a good dealer, but at a self dealt home game I can see it getting annoying.
 

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I think it's LESS likely to happen in a self-dealt home game because players are better at self regulating, willfully helping make change, and not feeling entitled to hoard small chips. :)

One caveat is that in casino tournaments, there are typically going to be other players brought into those tables at a reasonable pace after the first few levels, adding more black chips than the initial 90/100/whatever that are assigned to each table. In a single-table home tournament (or even two tables) you're not getting that extra influx of chips.

Another caveat is that casinos doing re-entry events generally don't give a "normal" starting stack out once they fill the tables; they give out 1k or 5k chips only and then you have to change them at the tables. I feel like that, more than anything, causes the chip shortages early in live MTTs.
 

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Side question: T100 seems cool enough, easy to size bets etc etc but what about the 500/1000 chip issue? Seems to be wasting a lot of chip estate when those two denoms are so close together.

Just wondering what folks think about that.
 

Solanthos

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Side question: T100 seems cool enough, easy to size bets etc etc but what about the 500/1000 chip issue? Seems to be wasting a lot of chip estate when those two denoms are so close together.

Just wondering what folks think about that.

What's the issue?
 

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Side question: T100 seems cool enough, easy to size bets etc etc but what about the 500/1000 chip issue? Seems to be wasting a lot of chip estate when those two denoms are so close together.

Just wondering what folks think about that.
I think it's fine, it just means that you don't need that many T500.
 

TX_Golf_N_Poker

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Side question: T100 seems cool enough, easy to size bets etc etc but what about the 500/1000 chip issue? Seems to be wasting a lot of chip estate when those two denoms are so close together.

Just wondering what folks think about that.
Not a side issue at all. It was one of my major considerations. I am starting to get pushed away from the idea of replacing T1000 with a T2000 chip though. I will probably just deal with it, and keep the number of T500 chips down to the minimum number absolutely needed.
 

TX_Golf_N_Poker

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Not a side issue at all. It was one of my major considerations. I am starting to get pushed away from the idea of replacing T1000 with a T2000 chip though. I will probably just deal with it, and keep the number of T500 chips down to the minimum number absolutely needed.
To add to this, as I'm crunching numbers in my spreadsheet, going 500-2000-10000 creates a worse problem. No T5000 chip. That puppy is a workhorse in the later rounds. And if there's no T1000, you can't color up the T500 until pretty late, if ever, in a single table event. Honestly, there's not much need for more than a few chips bigger than T5000 in STTs that use T25 or T100 base and T10k to T25K stacks.
 

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----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

A 400-chip single-table 10-player tournament set can be structured several ways. These are all proven breakdowns with efficient chip usage:

T25-base -- 12/12/5/6 T10K starting stacks (200BB with 25/50) and 100% re-buys, or up to T25K stacks (500BB) and no re-buys:
120 x T25
120 x T100
50 x T500
75 x T1000 (includes color-ups for T25/T100)
35 x T5000 (includes color-ups for T500 and re-buys/larger stacks)
------------
400 chips, with 80-110 chips in play at tournament end (32% highest denom)

T100-base -- 10/8/10/7 T50K starting stacks (250BB with 100/200) and 100% re-buys, or up to T100K (500BB) stacks and no re-buys
100 x T100
80 x T500
100 x T1000
95 x T5000 (includes color-ups for T100/T500 and re-buys)
25 x T25000 (includes color-ups for T1000 and re-buys/larger stacks)
------------
400 chips, with 95-120 chips in play at tournament end (29% highest denom)

Fwiw, I consider 80 to 200 chips in play at tournament end to be sufficient, with the optimum number in the 120-160 range (2-3 barrels per player three-handed and 3-4 barrels per player heads-up).

I'm considering buying my first set of chips for single table tourney (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/threads/400-or-500-tournament-chips-need-help.69504/) and efficiency is key but I also don't want to be on the low spectrum using the minimum chips possible.

You told us a 280 chip minimum to play normally, and that you prefer this 400 approach, for usability I suppose.

You also say 120-160, seems to be the perfect range for finals, I'm prefering at the moment T25 but it has less final chips than T100, can this be solved adding more chips (I suppose that brokes the usability but just asking).

Maybe it is for the colors that I prefer T25 than T100 and we are used to play with T25,.

Which advantages do each type, T25 and T100 offer each one?

Does one of them provide slower jumps on blinds structure if one wants it?

Sorry if deviated but really crunching my mind on buying a first 400/500 chip set and thinking on your writings to make the buy. Thank you!
 

TX_Golf_N_Poker

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I'm considering buying my first set of chips for single table tourney (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/threads/400-or-500-tournament-chips-need-help.69504/) and efficiency is key but I also don't want to be on the low spectrum using the minimum chips possible.

You told us a 280 chip minimum to play normally, and that you prefer this 400 approach, for usability I suppose.

You also say 120-160, seems to be the perfect range for finals, I'm prefering at the moment T25 but it has less final chips than T100, can this be solved adding more chips (I suppose that brokes the usability but just asking).

Maybe it is for the colors that I prefer T25 than T100 and we are used to play with T25,.

Which advantages do each type, T25 and T100 offer each one?

Does one of them provide slower jumps on blinds structure if one wants it?

Sorry if deviated but really crunching my mind on buying a first 400/500 chip set and thinking on your writings to make the buy. Thank you!
This is a very old thread. Funny to see it pop up again. So much has happened since I started this. I never did buy these chips and instead bought 1700 custom ceramics, enough for a 3-4 table tournament! LOL!

I'm with you in that I love the color green and I love a green T25 to start out a tournament. I just like the early blind structures better, and could not care less what they do in the casinos. Their reason for starting T100 is of no consequence to me.

Hopefully @BGinGA or one of the other gurus will jump in and answer your other questions, or if not, you may want to just start a new thread. Welcome to the PCF Madness!
 
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