colour codes for Paulson chip colours? (1 Viewer)

[xdan]

Hi All
Is there a list/reference for the colour codes for the Paulson chips..

im sure i can get close by loading the pics into adobe and getting the eye dropper tool.. but i know it wont be perfect.

any ideas?

thanks

 

[Tommy]

Hi All
Is there a list/reference for the colour codes for the Paulson chips..

im sure i can get close by loading the pics into adobe and getting the eye dropper tool.. but i know it wont be perfect.

any ideas?

thanks

This thread might help.
http://www.pokerchipforum.com/threads/wsop-chip-colors.6641/

The chip color reference is here. I wouldn't recommend doing it that way though.
http://www.pokerchipforum.com/resources/paulson-chip-color-reference.2/

I can help with the WSOP CMYK color codes. I just finished them up the other day.

 

[xdan]

Thanks guys

WSOP would help.. thanks heaps

I'll keep the search going for the others

 

[Tommy]

Thanks guys

WSOP would help.. thanks heaps

I'll keep the search going for the others

Easier to copy and paste... here you go. I used a combination of the Pantone CMYK swatches, CMYK color wheels, and CMYK codes that were used on other ceramics.

5000
Blaze Orange Base Color: C-0 M-60 Y-100 K-0
Dark Brown Main Spot: C-5 M-80 Y-92 K-75
Tan Middle Spot: C-26 M-36 Y-51 K-1

1000
Canary Yellow Base Color: C-0 M-20 Y-100 K-0
Plum Main Spot: C-30 M-100 Y-0 K-0
Sherbet Orange Middle Spot: C-0 M-25 Y-40 K-0

500
Desert Flower Base Color: C-34 M-12 Y-0 K-0
Maroon Main Spot: C-0 M-100 Y-0 K-60
Pink Middle Spot: C-0 M-50 Y-0 K-0

100
Black Base Color: C-0 M-0 Y-0 K-100
Day Blue Main Spot: C-40 M-0 Y-0 K-0
Dark Blue Middle Spot: C-100 M-0 Y-0 K-40

25
Day Green Base Color: C-40 M-0 Y-100 K-0
Forest Green Main Spot: C-100 M-0 Y-90 K-0
Yellow Middle Spot: C-0 M-0 Y-100 K-0

If you wait a bit, I have some prototypes in production. We can see how they come out. I took into consideration that the colors print a little darker on ceramics.

 

[xdan]

Are you doing a WSOP set on ceramics?

I did a set a while back. I just went with the colours that looked the best.. Came out ok.

 

[Tommy]

Are you doing a WSOP set on ceramics?

I did a set a while back. I just went with the colours that looked the best.. Came out ok.

Yeah, you have pics?

 

[xdan]

obvisouly an exact replica.. but i did these when i was learning illustrator.

If i even went again and got more, i would make a few changes.

 

[Tommy]

Very cool!

 

[Gear]

FYI, color recipes specified in RGB or CMYK will never be "perfect" the way you think they will. There is no such thing, unless you know and control every step of the process, and I mean EVERY STEP. Think about it - if you want to reproduce the color of a chip, you have to do something like the following:

1. Scan the chip with a scanner, or take a picture with a camera
2. View that image on a monitor
3. Eyeball or measure a color to add to your document that matches the appearance of the original
4. Output a file
5. RIP the file for the output device that will print it

Every single step there has its own color profile. The scanner or camera will have a profile to it. All monitor(s) have color reproduction characteristics. The document you put CMYK or RGB values into will have a color space definition (sRGB vs Adobe RGB, for instance). The output file may or may not have an ICC profile embedded or applied. The software processing the input file for the device making the output will have its own set of color characteristics.The actual device will have its own set of characteristics as well (how do you know that your Cyan ink is the same color as my Cyan ink? You don't.)

If all of these things haven't been profiled and calibrated, there is NO SUCH THING as the "perfect" RGB or CMYK values for anything.


Having said that, you can certainly get close. But do not be surprised if you generate a set of values from something (even a set of swatches laid against original chips) and use those values for output, and they are not identical.

Accurate color matching is very hard, and high-end graphics and print shops pay a lot of money for expensive equipment and expertise to get it as close as they can. And it's frequently still not "perfect".

My 2¢ after about 10 years in that segment of the prepress industry.