For you folks that don't leave your table up, what do you do with it and where does it "live"? (2 Viewers)

Nice job! I've been thinking about doing the same for my oak kitchen table (also expands w/ two leaves). A couple of questions:
  • I was going to use 1/4" ply as the base, then foam, then a Chanman Custom Suede. Is the foam without a base stiff enough and strong enough? (Out of Context Thread, here I come)
  • How do you attach the foam/speed cloth to the rail (when you are hanging it on the wall as shown, or laying it on the table)?
  • Can you post (or PM me) a few pictures of the foam/SSC separate from the rail, back side of the rail, any build pictures, etc.?
Cheers!

If you can, I'd recommend using 1/4" plywood for a base for the speedcloth. I chose not to, my priority was To make the table super easy to put up and take down, and to have it be easily portable and easy to store.

However, I've been happier than expected with how the speedcloth attached to only foam has worked. It's sitting on top of a wood table, so it feels like any other poker table.


I don't attach the speedcloth in any way when it's in "table mode". It's basically just a matt that sits on top of the table (it's the exact size of the table), and then I put the rail on top, and that's it. The rail sitting on top adds a little pressure, and I have not noticed any slipping or movement yet.
When it's in "art mode", I've been using thumbtacks to stick it into the wood of the rail. I know this isn't a good option, but it was quick and easy and what I had at the time.

I'll send you some pics. Unfortunately I just broke the table down and hung it up before seeing your post. But I'll definitely send you more info
 
Stays covered.
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Leaving a poker table on it's said against the foam isn't a concern, as long as the weight is evenly distributed. If you accidentally put the table on top of something, like a piece of lego, then it'll leave a dent in the rail.

The foam I use is pretty high density, and I wrap the vinyl/suede/leather very tight so there's no worry about over compressing the foam over time.

Kickstands are a good option, I include those for folding tables, but not for toppers since those have to have a flat bottom.
Do you compress the rail with weight when wrapping and stapling the vinyl or leave the foam expanded? When I made a topper over a decade ago we compressed and it worked well, but I've heard folks say it's not necessary.
 
following, looking for ideas to store
1-cash 9ft table with folding legs
1-tourney 9ft table with wood pedestal legs (heavy and legs/table top can be removed, 2 person job)
1-folding table w legs.
 
I thought at first you were asking about people who don't quit a game until they're busto :ROFL: :ROFLMAO:
 
Curious, do you guys support the table in anyway to prevent damage to the rail/padding, or is that not a concern? I'll be receiving a topper as soon as DHL decides to get their shit together and it's something I've been wondering about.
This may not be of help if you already have your table on the way, but I built a topper with a removable rail. When it needs to be stored, I pop it off so the rail only has to support it's own weight. I haven't had any issues with it being stored over a summer.
 
Do you compress the rail with weight when wrapping and stapling the vinyl or leave the foam expanded? When I made a topper over a decade ago we compressed and it worked well, but I've heard folks say it's not necessary.

I don't pre-compress the foam, but when I do the upholstery I pull the vinyl tight otherwise I'd end up with wrinkles.
 
Where are you guys finding these table sized fitted covers? I need one of these.
Tableclothworld.com. The oval and round covers are at the bottom of the page. I have one and I have referred several people that bought them. Everyone seems very pleased with them. Get the elastic cover and make sure you order it large enough so the cover wraps under the table edge. I bought a 64" cover for my 60" round table.
 
Mine get completely disassembled.

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The rail is hung on bike racks which are covered with block foam. The table foam and speedcloth are rolled up (speed cloth behind the foam in the photo). Legs are unscrewed and live in a canvas bag on the little black shelves in the foreground. The base of the table is slid behind the big red toolbox, along with a couple other disassembled tables. Everything else in that room is on wheels, so I can get stuff in/out pretty easily.
 
Mine get completely disassembled.

View attachment 689960

The rail is hung on bike racks which are covered with block foam. The table foam and speedcloth are rolled up (speed cloth behind the foam in the photo). Legs are unscrewed and live in a canvas bag on the little black shelves in the foreground. The base of the table is slid behind the big red toolbox, along with a couple other disassembled tables. Everything else in that room is on wheels, so I can get stuff in/out pretty easily.
Nice Bat'leth flex.
 
Some people buy guns to defend their home against home invasion. I bought a Bat'leth to protect my home against Romulan invasion.

The odds of either happening are almost exactly the same.
Well everyone knows the Romluans prefer to provoke their enemies into aggression instead of initiating aggression.
 
I’m looking for ideas to hang my 88” table on a wall… It’s two sheets of birch ply plus steel legs, so it’s pretty heavy but not a total monster.

I can find the wall studs, so if I can come up with a good option the weight shouldn’t be an issue.

I hung a table once with two bicycle hangers, but it stuck out more than I’d like. They wrapped around the crossbar of a folded table leg.

I’m visualizing something attached to the bottom of the table which could slide down into a bracket. Would be good to find something which will reduce markings on the wall.

Open to any and all ideas.
 
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Was thinking maybe something like this. I’d have to use blocking to make sure it cleared the folded legs.

Or else maybe a pair of heavy duty u-hooks and some chain.
 
I’m looking for ideas to hang my 88” table on a wall… It’s two sheets of birch ply plus steel legs, so it’s pretty heavy but not a total monster.

I can find the wall studs, so if I can come up with a good option the weight shouldn’t be an issue.

I hung a table once with two bicycle hangers, but it stuck out more than I’d like. They wrapped around the crossbar of a folded table leg.

I’m visualizing something attached to the bottom of the table which could slide down into a bracket. Would be good to find something which will reduce markings on the wall.

Open to any and all ideas.
For one of my tables, I screwed heavy duty eye bolts into the bottom of the table, and mounted heavy duty hooks to the wall studs (unfinished side of basement). Works well, but it's hard to get lined up perfectly. Something like what @Taghkanic suggested above would be a better solution though. Please let us know what you come up with and take pictures!
 
I’m looking for ideas to hang my 88” table on a wall… It’s two sheets of birch ply plus steel legs, so it’s pretty heavy but not a total monster.

I can find the wall studs, so if I can come up with a good option the weight shouldn’t be an issue.

I hung a table once with two bicycle hangers, but it stuck out more than I’d like. They wrapped around the crossbar of a folded table leg.

I’m visualizing something attached to the bottom of the table which could slide down into a bracket. Would be good to find something which will reduce markings on the wall.

Open to any and all ideas.
Will something like this work??
French_cleat.jpg
 
Will something like this work??
View attachment 800721

I think it would work, at least if the center screw/lag bolt hit a stud. For my table, I’d have to build out the table-side wedge from a deeper piece of wood so as to clear the legs.

I checked out the Hillman hanger in the screenshot above at Lowe’s. I was underwhelmed by the quality of the metal — pretty thin stuff for this purpose. The packaging insists it’s rated up to 200 pounds, and with multiple screws that might be possible and ought to be more than adequate. But I’d like to look for a similar products made by other companies to see if anyone makes something a little heftier.

I also did my usual big box store browse looking for other homegrown/hacked together ideas. Came up with a lot of possibilities, but none that really seemed like a winner, so I’ll leave those alone for now unless one of them works out.
 
I think it would work, at least if the center screw/lag bolt hit a stud. For my table, I’d have to build out the table-side wedge from a deeper piece of wood so as to clear the legs.

I checked out the Hillman hanger in the screenshot above at Lowe’s. I was underwhelmed by the quality of the metal — pretty thin stuff for this purpose. The packaging insists it’s rated up to 200 pounds, and with multiple screws that might be possible and ought to be more than adequate. But I’d like to look for a similar products made by other companies to see if anyone makes something a little heftier.

I also did my usual big box store browse looking for other homegrown/hacked together ideas. Came up with a lot of possibilities, but none that really seemed like a winner, so I’ll leave those alone for now unless one of them works out.
What about a TV wall mount? That's basically like the Hillman hanger and they can usually accommodate a couple hundred pounds. And they're tilt adjustable so you may be able to get the clearance you want. What does the table weigh?

https://www.staples.com/Peerless-AV-SmartAmount-PT660-Wall-Mount-Up-To-200-lbs/product_IM1Q94690
 
I really like the hanging on the wall idea. I just settled in turning the extra bedroom to the poker room.
 
I would guess the table is something like 125-130 pounds with the legs.
Could be an interesting thing to try. The downside is that the TV hangers can be pricey unless you can find an open box or used one.
 
The TV mount might work, but I’d have to find a way to dodge the legs and some steel supports underneath which I added to reduce flexing.

I am leaning toward using hooks which wrap around the crossbar of one of the leg supports. (See pics below.) The crossbar is welded to the hinge, and seems strong enough.

The challenge is that the studs on this wall (in a renovated barn) are 24” apart, but the crossbar is only 18” across. So I can’t secure screw hooks into more than one stud, unless I open up the wall to install blocking.

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Another idea I had was to use a steel coathook more than 24” wide, so it could span the studs.

I’ve found one with holes exactly the right distance apart (see pic below), but I’m not certain the hooks will reach the crossbar… So I might have to block behind the rack.

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Another idea is to attach boat hooks or the like to the studs and the underside of the table, then use chain with caribbeaners or latches to hang the table. This should work, but I think could be clunky when putting the table up or taking it down.

I’d probably need to build a small riser to hold the table up an inch or two higher than necessary (leaning against the wall), so it can be latched on… Then remove the riser carefully so as not to have a heavy drop. Or use some kind of jack. Again, seems kludgey.
 

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