Cash Game Question from a noob about workhorse chipps in a cash game (2 Viewers)

I will make Red 100 as 5c Blue 200 as 25c White 150 as $1 black 50 as $5 giving you over $450 bank just nice for a 5c/10c game with $10 or $20 buyin start small as it seem your group basically are learning stage

I suggesting 5/10c first to start if not your game will just be lot of limping with 25c bet all the way
This is a good suggestion.
 
I will make Red 100 as 5c Blue 200 as 25c White 150 as $1 black 50 as $5 giving you over $450 bank just nice for a 5c/10c game with $10 or $20 buyin start small as it seem your group basically are learning stage

I suggesting 5/10c first to start if not your game will just be lot of limping with 25c bet all the way
I've thought about this. I definitely don't want people limping all the time, or even getting annoyed by a 3-bet. Will 5/10c play much smaller than 10c/20c?
 
This will be fine. Just use the white for quarters, blue for dollars, red for $5.
And this is a bit unorthodox but for the sake of maximizing the utilization of your current set for the stakes you play, I would make the blacks $2.

Then in the future when you decide to get a different set or another set as well (which will most likely happen if you’re on this site), you can customize it to exactly how you see fit.
I've already spent considerable time learning about poker chip sets. This rabbit hole runs deep! I've already purchased a sample of Tiki Kings and DDLM (the latter sample just came in minutes ago--they are gorgeous!). Love the DDLM--not the Tiki Kings so much. I really like the chips from CPC, but I think that's out of my budget for the time being.
 
I've thought about this. I definitely don't want people limping all the time, or even getting annoyed by a 3-bet.
Your game, your call. You certainly could play much better deep stack poker, playing with nickels, but if your game has a bunch of noobs (and sorry if I'm assuming incorrectly there) good deep-stack poker may just not be in the cards, regardless. I'd be concerned that playing 5 cent poker would just encourage bad play. Like, I think some people might just see every flop and call every bet, because hey, it's only fifteen cents.
 
Your game, your call. You certainly could play much better deep stack poker, playing with nickels, but if your game has a bunch of noobs (and sorry if I'm assuming incorrectly there) good deep-stack poker may just not be in the cards, regardless. I'd be concerned that playing 5 cent poker would just encourage bad play. Like, I think some people might just see every flop and call every bet, because hey, it's only fifteen cents.
Nope, you're assuming correctly. I anticipate being the least nooby, but I also haven't played in many years. Personally, I would call anything for 15c. I wouldn't call anything for $1. I don't know if that'll be true for everyone else. I guess TBD. I also don't want them to never call with anything but the nuts because the stakes are too high (also because that's boring and I'll always fold to their bets). It's sounds like it comes down to the fact that I don't know this group very well (yet).
 
I've thought about this. I definitely don't want people limping all the time, or even getting annoyed by a 3-bet. Will 5/10c play much smaller than 10c/20c?
It very common to raise 3-5x blind in poker it is a good practise to raise with a lower stake, if everyone limp the poker will just be who are the luck box and flop better not really using any skill

5c/10c common raise will be 25c-40c whereas 10/20 raise will be 50c-70c so they are about half as small.
 
Your game, your call. You certainly could play much better deep stack poker, playing with nickels, but if your game has a bunch of noobs (and sorry if I'm assuming incorrectly there) good deep-stack poker may just not be in the cards, regardless. I'd be concerned that playing 5 cent poker would just encourage bad play. Like, I think some people might just see every flop and call every bet, because hey, it's only fifteen cents.
This is exactly why I raised the stakes in the game that I used to play in. Some of the guys just wanted to see flops all of the time and hated it when someone was raised. But they learned quickly that a little pressure made the game more competitive and fun.
 
Generally speaking, I think your workhorse chip will be your 2nd and/or 3rd denomination with your first denom being predominately used for blinds. Considering the fact that a person will typically open for 3 bigs (75c in a 25c big blind game) if said person gets a call, the majority of the bets after the flop will be greater than $1. From there it just depends on how loose/tight your game gets. Also depends on how deep. A .25/.25 game late in the night can start to play more like a .50/$1 game if stacks get really deep.

Just my 2 cents.

Edit: Opinion is assuming a progression of either (25c/$1/$5/$25/$100) or (50c/$1/$5/$25/$100)
 
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This is exactly why I raised the stakes in the game that I used to play in. Some of the guys just wanted to see flops all of the time and hated it when someone was raised. But they learned quickly that a little pressure made the game more competitive and fun.
Yeah, this is what I am worried about with people who don't know poker well. I remember in games I used to play when I was younger that people would always be annoyed when they didn't get to limp in to see a flop. I'm hoping that because most of these people will be noobs that I can teach them not to be like that, lol.
 
I've thought about this. I definitely don't want people limping all the time, or even getting annoyed by a 3-bet. Will 5/10c play much smaller than 10c/20c?
Your game will play like your game. If you spread 5¢/10¢ with a group used to playing .50/1, your game will play huge. If you spread .25/.50 with a group used to playing with nickels and dimes, there will be tons of limping. In my experience, the game will play smaller initially, and get a little looser the more you play. We play 5¢/10¢, and people used to buy in for $5-10, and pots hardly ever got bigger than a few dollars. Now, buy ins are usually $15-20 (20 is max), most opens are 50¢, and pots are regularly $10.
 
Easy way to spot a workhorse IMO will be whichever chip you want mostly on the table. In a 1/2 game, most everyone will have one barrel of ones and stacks of fives to carry the load.

Now, in a .25/.25 game, 1s might be too much of a reach for your play. So your workhouse might be a 50 cent chip to fill out the set, or more racks of quarters if you like alot on the table. But, it's standardly the next highest chip from the base blind. But it's really defined by the way your game plays.
 
For a .25/.50 game, or a looser .25/.25 game, 10 quarters per player would be plenty, as quarters would mostly be used for the blinds. For a tighter .25/.25 game, I’d want 15-20 quarters per, and 2-3 racks of 1’s. Those two chips will share the workload.
 
Thanks for this! I haven't played yet, but I think I will like having more chips on the table. I also think I will like having more betting options with more fracs on the table.

I currently have a 500 chips sets which is all non-denoms with the followingg breakdown

White - 150
Blue - 200
Red - 100
Black - 50
With this breakdown of non-denominated chips, why not trial a few different options over the course of a couple of games — then see what works best based on what your players enjoy the most / creates the best action?

If you find that nobody is enjoying an initial 5c / 10c game one week, why not bump it up to 10c / 20c the next time you play, then 25c / 25c etc? Even though it will probably take a while for your players to get used to which chip is worth what, the beauty of a non-denom set is the fact that you can be flexible until you hit your game's sweet spot.
 
Thanks for your response. Is it normal for someone to 4-bet the flop, turn, and river? I suppose this is the part I am trying to understand. If the answer is yes, then of course it makes sense that the $1 or $5 might be the workhorse. If, instead, there are 3-bets on each street, then the $0.25 chip will be the workshorse. Like I said, it's been a long time since I've played poker, so just trying to understand what to expect.
Are you playing limit or no limit? It will be unusual for people to be betting 25 cents into a $3-4 pot on the turn and river in my experience.
 
FWIW My weekly game is .25/.25 with a $40 buy-in. A couple years before I took over the game it was a .10/.20 $20 buy-in. I like at least 100 minimum BBs for a friendly game. .25/.25 $20 is a bit tight IMO.

As others have mentioned. Bets should be measured off the sized of the pot, not the size of the original BB. In my .25/.25 game the opening bet is often between .75 on the very lowest end on up to $3 with it typically being about $1-$2 before re-raises. With a couple callers the post flop pot is between $5-$10 so a bet should already be up to the $5 range considering the pot size at that point. Betting .50 into an $8 pot is not good poker.

With some of your descriptions here it sounds to me like a .10/.20 $20 game is more appropriate so that it isn't super nitty.
 
I agree the blind chips tend to not be the workhorse, when i do host .25-.50 I usually need to have 2 stacks (barrels) of 1s and a stack of 5s ready per player. and then yes, sometimes it goes late and I never raise blinds but the stack sizes dictate play and pot sizes more than the blinds at that point. it's very typical in my 1-2 game to even need to break out a few $100 chips. when it's really good i do get a couple cameos from ppl that want to match the large stack and usually the players are happy about that. (not always)
 
I will make Red 100 as 5c Blue 200 as 25c White 150 as $1 black 50 as $5 giving you over $450 bank just nice for a 5c/10c game with $10 or $20 buyin start small as it seem your group basically are learning stage

I suggesting 5/10c first to start if not your game will just be lot of limping with 25c bet all the way
Would you recommend doing 5c/10c over 10c/10c? It seems like a waste to use a whole denom for the small blind (at least to my noob brain). How would you denominate the chips in 10c/10c?
 
10c/10c or 10c/20c would be good. 50BB is $10 and 100BB is $20. You can probably use .10 and .50 denom chips, and round it out with $1 chips
 
Would you recommend doing 5c/10c over 10c/10c? It seems like a waste to use a whole denom for the small blind (at least to my noob brain). How would you denominate the chips in 10c/10c?
5c/10c and 10c/10c shouldn’t be too much of a difference. As for the demo I will go for 10c (100) 50c (200) $2 (150) $10 (50) for your non demo set.

If you planning to buy a set with demo in future it good to buy in 100/100/200/80/20 in demo 10c/50c/$1/$5/$20 for a set of 500

Below is the set I used for my micro 10/20c stake

31E66DCF-4807-4C40-A6BD-26483717445C.jpeg


A starting stack of $20 / 100bb
62F1D81B-6DBE-498C-BDCC-97BDBF837B44.jpeg
 
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Would you recommend doing 5c/10c over 10c/10c? It seems like a waste to use a whole denom for the small blind (at least to my noob brain). How would you denominate the chips in 10c/10c?
Most people would not use a nickel and a dime to play .05/.10 - you just toss in two nickels for the big blind. For a .05/.10, I'd probably go for a rack of nickels, two racks of quarters, two racks of dollars, and a rack of fives? But I've never hosted that stake, so that's just guesswork.
 
Stick with your initial thought of playing .25/.25, don't play .05/.10. My guys wanted to play 5c/10c so I went with it. It was horrible and didn't last very long. As already mentioned the mentality was "it's only 20c to call? sure why not, I'm in." Or they'd start betting dollars. The problem I have now is they want to buy-in for $20 to $25 but we're playing .25/.50. I suppose if we just played a cash game they'd be willing to buy-in for more but we always have a tournament first then start the cash game as guys get eliminated.
 
Stick with your initial thought of playing .25/.25, don't play .05/.10. My guys wanted to play 5c/10c so I went with it. It was horrible and didn't last very long. As already mentioned the mentality was "it's only 20c to call? sure why not, I'm in." Or they'd start betting dollars. The problem I have now is they want to buy-in for $20 to $25 but we're playing .25/.50. I suppose if we just played a cash game they'd be willing to buy-in for more but we always have a tournament first then start the cash game as guys get eliminated.
In a cash game, if someone wants to buy in for less than 100bb, that’s fine. It’s only to their advantage to buy in for the maximum amount.
 
I notice you keep saying 4 bet, but I assume you are meaning 4 times the big blind, and if you are asking if it’s normal for people to make the bet sizing 4x the big blind pre flop…..100%.

Now, it really depends on how conservative your players are, but trust me, after a few times of playing, that pre-flop bet will regularly be in the 4x to 8x range. Easily.

I’ve played these exact stakes for about 3 years now in a home game and the $1 chip is most definitely the work horse chip, but if you like more chips on the table (which a lot of people do) get almost as many quarters as you to ones. That way you can add some spice to your bets such as a $2.75 bet for example, rather than just making it a $3 bet because you have so little fracs on the table, and people only end up using them as blinds.

A good starting set up for a $25 buy in at .25/.25 would be
.25 - 200
$1 - 400
$5 - 100

You can make things work with the set you have using this type of breakdown reference for chip value.

.25-150 ----white
$1- 200 -----blue
$5- 100 -----red
$20 or 25- 50 -----black

Starting stacks
$0.25/$0.25 Game$0.25/$0.50 Game

.25-12 Chips

.25-12 Chips

$1-17 Chips

$1-17 Chips
$5 -1 Chips
$5-6 Chips

$25 buy-in 10 players
$50 buy-in 10 players


If creating your own set I for this game style I would also want to include the possibility to go up to a 1/2 game eventually and would recommend
.25-200
1.00 - 200 to 300 chips
5.00 - 200 to 300 chips
25.00- 40 to 100 chips
100- 20 to 40 chips
 
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