Apparently they were over-oiled and not wiped down.
Oiling Chips Done Right (11 Viewers)
- Thread starter Stibnite
- Start date
"I love the smell of cleaned and oiled chips in the morning. It smells like...victory."
Mr Winberg
Full House
ktran
Flush
When dusting off chips before oiling, is a manual wipe with damp cloth necessary or is dipping/bathing it in a bowl of water fine? Speaking about RHCs.
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CPCs I would wipe down as they get alot of factory dust within the mold impressions
Otherwise just a quick rinse is probably sufficient enough
ktran
Flush
Okay I was referring to RHCs.
Indiana grands I would wash with more than water
Even the mint chips had alot of crud on them from the transportation method
ktran
Flush
Well only the primary 5s needed a clean. I pretty much had secondaries. The Primary $1s were minty somehow too. I didn't see any crud except for the $5s.
That's cool. We washed all of ours including the secondaries they were all mint but still had some dirt and color transfer
Didn't expect another acquisition so soon, but here we are after cleaning and oiling
ktran
Flush
Anyone experience if the foam part of the case will wick off some oil? I'm storing them in trays/racks in a case with foam.
I've never shared this before thinking I might one day get this done. That dream is over.
Many years ago, I worked with a friend who had woodworking skills and had a prototype of a chip oiler product made. It was a block of wood measured to the exact length of rolling a 39mm chip one revolution. It had 3-4 grooves cut down to cover THC edges. It had glued felt on top and went down through the grooves. I used a medicine dropper filled with mineral oil to add to the grooves as needed. The felt both soaked up the oil and protected the chips from being damaged.
The chips were hand rolled through the grooves. I could do 3-4 chips at a time in a couple of seconds. It worked pretty well. I was thinking about selling them on the blue board, but the woodworker lost his job and moved to CO.
Just another lost project I gave up on; I give up easily. I wish I could find the prototype. I think one of my kids must have thrown it away. On second thought, it was probably my wife so I wouldn't keep buying chips. Don't be silly, I'm still gonna oil it. *Warning for copycats - Patent Pending* Lol
Many years ago, I worked with a friend who had woodworking skills and had a prototype of a chip oiler product made. It was a block of wood measured to the exact length of rolling a 39mm chip one revolution. It had 3-4 grooves cut down to cover THC edges. It had glued felt on top and went down through the grooves. I used a medicine dropper filled with mineral oil to add to the grooves as needed. The felt both soaked up the oil and protected the chips from being damaged.
The chips were hand rolled through the grooves. I could do 3-4 chips at a time in a couple of seconds. It worked pretty well. I was thinking about selling them on the blue board, but the woodworker lost his job and moved to CO.
Just another lost project I gave up on; I give up easily. I wish I could find the prototype. I think one of my kids must have thrown it away. On second thought, it was probably my wife so I wouldn't keep buying chips. Don't be silly, I'm still gonna oil it. *Warning for copycats - Patent Pending* Lol
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No, I can’t say. I’m not much of an oiler, though I have oiled and seen chips dry out again. I imagine it happens to some extent. But significantly more so than the plastic of the trays or just natural drying? I don’t know.
Hey folks, can someone with mineral oiling experience tell me if I let these sit with excess oil too long? I noticed little patches of spots on a few chips and I don’t recall seeing them there before oiling.
and if so, what’s the remedy? maybe getting new labels from gear? Thanks
and if so, what’s the remedy? maybe getting new labels from gear? Thanks
I wipe excess oil off of the faces/inlays before letting them sit out to dry. It does appear some got under yours here. A little oil goes a long way.
This. That looks like oil seepage under the inlay. If it is, I don't think any amount of waiting/airing it out will do anything. Sometimes you get seepage under the inlay when you clean them, but letting them dry out usually fixes it. But since this is a result of oiling, I don't think that's the case.
I also wipe inlay's almost immediately after oiling the chip. And yes, a little goes a long way. Even with the dryest of chips, I usually end up using about two drops per barrel.
ktran
Flush
I think true inlays will have seepage. Paper inlays are fine I believe. The inlays I had were paper and no issues.
EvelcyclopS
High Hand
I had this on my CPCs when I was perhaps a bit overzealous with the oil.
I don’t know whether it diffused across the rest of the inlay or if it dried out but even if I look for it now I cannot tell.
So my advice would be to not worry about it, it should get better
I don’t know whether it diffused across the rest of the inlay or if it dried out but even if I look for it now I cannot tell.
So my advice would be to not worry about it, it should get better
Ben8257
Royal Flush
Paper/Plastic it doesn't matter... no rhyme or reason... some chips are well sealed to the inlay (meaning where the inlay meets the clay) others are not, especially older chips and shaped inlays. If water gets under them... often you can lay them out and let them dry out and the will be ok..OK... unfortunately once oil runs under the inlay it doesn't come out. If it tilts you bad enough the only way to fix them is remove the inlay and buy new from Gear.
There should have been evidence during the washing cycle, rather by hand or in a machine. Always try to take note if there is any water under the inlays. If you see any at all, make sure the oil rags is almost dry and only oil to the center of the hats with very light oil, some only "barrel oil" meaning heavier oil on the rag and do a barrel at a time and only on the outer lip of the chip, I prefer still to get some oil on the faces but stay clear of the edges of the inlay, oil will run towards the center on its own.
There is a learning process,at least this wasn't on really high end chips.
There should have been evidence during the washing cycle, rather by hand or in a machine. Always try to take note if there is any water under the inlays. If you see any at all, make sure the oil rags is almost dry and only oil to the center of the hats with very light oil, some only "barrel oil" meaning heavier oil on the rag and do a barrel at a time and only on the outer lip of the chip, I prefer still to get some oil on the faces but stay clear of the edges of the inlay, oil will run towards the center on its own.
There is a learning process,at least this wasn't on really high end chips.
bigearv14
Waiting List
This is my second wave of Majestics. Had a 1000 chip set for cash and tournament, then decided to make it two separate sets of 800 and 1000, respectively (plus rebuys and bounties). I don’t know if this is the best or most efficient way to do this, but it worked well past my expectations the first time, so I decided to do it again to the new ones.
Thank you for this method. I was lost when I bought these the first time, but this was a very helpful guide and I love how much it improved the look and feel of the chips.
Goronic
Two Pair
Good guide. After doing several racks of Paulsons I would say ‘in my opinion’ the compression is the harder to do, but gives the best results. For a ‘almost as good’ result with a lot less work the oil and water is good too. If your chips are very dry I would highly recommend the compression hand to hand combat approach. I hope I don’t come across as an idiot with this recommendation. Thanks, and happy chipping!
NotRealNameNoSir
4 of a Kind
Almost definitely overoiled my first ever clays, but the color difference, wow! That inky blackness makes the gold pop. Loving it.
Woke up and some had small little pools of oil. Not worried about the inlays, but I flipped them and will reassess after 24 hours from oiling.
Left acoustic, right electric.
Woke up and some had small little pools of oil. Not worried about the inlays, but I flipped them and will reassess after 24 hours from oiling.
Left acoustic, right electric.
FWIW, I usually wipe down the inlay/hot stamp area with a paper towel after oiling them. Keep flipping them every day or so, and let them stay out for a little bit, and the rest of the oil will take care of itself.
NotRealNameNoSir
4 of a Kind
Huh! Okay will do, appreciated. Definitely had a lot on there, was curious how much would soak and what a day would do for them. Thanks
I rub each chip down with a microfiber cloth after oiling, whether or not there is any oil visible.
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I let them sit out for a minimum 2 days and flip at least once a day, preferably twice (morning and night). With the inlay wipe, I just tear off a sheet of paper towel double and wrap it around my index finger, and then just swirl it around each inlay adjusting to a fresh part of the sheet as needed. Also can use a clean rag to do this.
I think you’re adding too much if they need to sit out that long.
My first attempt, I had them out for a day and realized that was too much oil.
Since then, I quick edge wipe a barrel, lightly hit the faces around the inlay to spread whatever oil dripped over the sides into the face, and then put in the rack. I then check back in a month, pull the barrels from the rack and wipe up any excess that dripped down- usually nothing.
The lighter piled chips looked better than the first job I did. Less is more.
My first attempt, I had them out for a day and realized that was too much oil.
Since then, I quick edge wipe a barrel, lightly hit the faces around the inlay to spread whatever oil dripped over the sides into the face, and then put in the rack. I then check back in a month, pull the barrels from the rack and wipe up any excess that dripped down- usually nothing.
The lighter piled chips looked better than the first job I did. Less is more.
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