It's really happening - First Table Build (3 Viewers)

[TheDirtMerchant]

It's been a while of being on this forum and saying I'm going to build a table.
Like 5 years on the forum and 3 years since I seriously wanted to build one.
I actually ordered playing surface foam and rail foam and suede 2.5 years ago.
Laziness, forgetfulness, tiredness and a flooded basement have also contributed to the delay...but...I finally started!

I cut the 4x8 sheet down to a 44" width. Going with 96" x 44"

A little DIY for the half circle lines.

Went with a jigsaw for the corner cuts. I think I'll order a Jasper Circle jig for my router and clean these up. If I can find some thin plywood in my garage, maybe I'll DIY
the circle jig.

Up against the wall, 2 sheets Oval-ed. I'll have to get back to this asap. And really hoping that its not a long time before I get back to it.

Next chance I get, I'll have to get a 3rd sheet of plywood (I had to use the 3rd sheet for a shelving project a while ago and have yet to replace it).
Cut that into the oval for and use for the Top Rail.
And cut the 2nd sheet into the Bottom Rail, Inner Play Area and "Outer Play Area" to act as the holder for the frosted light diffuser.
I'm planning to go 2" Bottom Rail, 2" Outer Play Area and a 5" rail.

I'm basically follwing this plan/thread:
https://www.pokerchipforum.com/threads/custom-poker-table-blueprint.113372/

For the riser...I think I'm using 2x4 (I have plenty of scraps laying around that I can cut into the riser pieces).
I want cupholders in the rail...we'll see how I do with that. I have the corner pieces and this thread to follow:
https://www.pokerchipforum.com/threads/poker-table-build-with-cups-in-rail.103142/#post-2133564

(but that would mean getting another smaller circle jig).
Anyone know if the Jasper Circle Jigs fit on the Harbor Freight routers? I assume they do...but you never know.

Anyway...more to come.

 

[TheDirtMerchant]

And I just saw a comment that the rail should be 6" if there will be jumbo cupholders. So, going with a 6" rail.
If that's the case...I should make the bottom rail and Outer Play Area wider...yes?

 

[TheDirtMerchant]

Had a couple hours and some good weather (finally!).
Routered down the ugly edges on the base and what will be the bottom rail pieces.
What a difference with the circle jig + router compared to my free hand jig saw shakiness.

Here is the base, the bottom rail, outer play and inner play area.
I drilled a hole at a starting point (intersection of straight and curve) to get the router bit down and cut the curve and then clamped a straight edge down and used a circular saw to cut the straights.

I will take a sander or possibly route the outer edge of the inner play area and the inner edge of the outer play area. I don't want sharp edges to fray/cut the felt over time...? Is that necessary?

I have to buy another sheet of 3/4 plywood that will be the table rail.
I think I need to get a 1/2" half round router bit to soften up the outer edge of the table rail and the base.
I need T-nuts to put the rail together.
3M Adhesive for the foam and playing surface foam/felt.

 

[TheDirtMerchant]

I am planning to cut cupholders into the top rail, which I will be making a 6" rail.
I'm planning to use 2x4 chunks as the spacers between the top rail and the bottom rail.

Do I need to cut the cupholder "round" down into the bottom rail and outer play area?
DIY thread research upcoming...

 

[TheDirtMerchant]

OK...day 3 of work didn't go well at all.
I realized that I cut down my plywood to 44", but was doing a half circle as if it was 48" (thinking that the full table length is what mattered).

And because of my bad jigsaw skills and wanting to clean up edges I decided to "shorten" my circle. So I centered on 23 3/4" from the end and 22" from side to side, and used the jig to route at 47 1/2" (Base and Bottom Rail), 42 1/2" (Outer Play Area ring), 37 1/2" (Inner Play Area)...I believe that corresponds to 23 3/4", 21 1/4' and 18 3/4" from the "centered" nail. So...I think I have a slightly...not perfect half circle on the end? Not really sure this makes a bad issue...except when I'm giving measurements for thecustom felt...

Anyone good at geometry able to tell me wtf I'm doing?!?! And if this matters?

Basically, I have a larger HEAD than the shaft of my table! LMFAO.


THEN:
With an hour or two of sunlight and good weather and some free time, I decided to try to route out the cupholder rings (I don't have my 3rd sheet of plywood and I'm not sure what else I can do ). Didn't go well at all. I mounted the scrap piece, screwed down another piece of the corner cutoff scrap and tried to route a 4" circle. I think I set the bit too long and it was maybe a crappy bit because I got a lot of smoke and embers and burn marks. Got 1 circle done though. Tried to move 1/2" outward and 1/8 of the way around and the peg pulled out of the hole...not that it mattered because I had clearly put the peg in the wrong hole (*pause*)...and was WAY too close to the inner hole and the ring was basically mush...and burned.

Sigh.

Does anyone still sell those pre-made cupholder rings? Because my woodworking and geometry skills are not good.

 

[TheDirtMerchant]

3rd sheet of plywood ordered, expected delivery on Thursday.

Anyone want to weigh in on...The 2 pieces already cut are the expensive stuff. Cabinet grade birch 3/4", $80/sheet at HD.
This 3rd sheet, I "cheaped" out a bit and got AC plywood (1 side sanded smooth, other side not) and its pine.

Is it ok to use the pine as the Rail or the Base? Or is it really not advisable to use pine plywood for either part? I can switch to the expensive stuff still...

 

[buzzmonkey]

3rd sheet of plywood ordered, expected delivery on Thursday.

Anyone want to weigh in on...The 2 pieces already cut are the expensive stuff. Cabinet grade birch 3/4", $80/sheet at HD.
This 3rd sheet, I "cheaped" out a bit and got AC plywood (1 side sanded smooth, other side not) and its pine.

Is it ok to use the pine as the Rail or the Base? Or is it really not advisable to use pine plywood for either part? I can switch to the expensive stuff still...

I'd use the pine for the rail, smooth side down.

 

[elisbam]

not saying I’m an expert after one build… however I found that rounding off the edges of the pine rail with the router gave a really nice feel after upholstered

 

[TheDirtMerchant]

Yup! I'm definitelly going to round off all outer edges on my table.

 

[merkong]

OK...day 3 of work didn't go well at all.
I realized that I cut down my plywood to 44", but was doing a half circle as if it was 48" (thinking that the full table length is what mattered).

And because of my bad jigsaw skills and wanting to clean up edges I decided to "shorten" my circle. So I centered on 23 3/4" from the end and 22" from side to side, and used the jig to route at 47 1/2" (Base and Bottom Rail), 42 1/2" (Outer Play Area ring), 37 1/2" (Inner Play Area)...I believe that corresponds to 23 3/4", 21 1/4' and 18 3/4" from the "centered" nail. So...I think I have a slightly...not perfect half circle on the end? Not really sure this makes a bad issue...except when I'm giving measurements for thecustom felt...

Anyone good at geometry able to tell me wtf I'm doing?!?! And if this matters?

Basically, I have a larger HEAD than the shaft of my table! LMFAO.


THEN:
With an hour or two of sunlight and good weather and some free time, I decided to try to route out the cupholder rings (I don't have my 3rd sheet of plywood and I'm not sure what else I can do ). Didn't go well at all. I mounted the scrap piece, screwed down another piece of the corner cutoff scrap and tried to route a 4" circle. I think I set the bit too long and it was maybe a crappy bit because I got a lot of smoke and embers and burn marks. Got 1 circle done though. Tried to move 1/2" outward and 1/8 of the way around and the peg pulled out of the hole...not that it mattered because I had clearly put the peg in the wrong hole (*pause*)...and was WAY too close to the inner hole and the ring was basically mush...and burned.

Sigh.

Does anyone still sell those pre-made cupholder rings? Because my woodworking and geometry skills are not good.

View attachment 1518539

Either 3D printer of pvc pipe is another proven hack.

 

[merkong]

Bring your cupholder to the store. If it fits and catches your cupholder you got the right size. Cut them how you choose and glue them in place

 

[merkong]

Chop saw ensures they’ll all be the same measurement

 

[TheDirtMerchant]

Either 3D printer of pvc pipe is another proven hack.

I saw you? someone? mention that in another thread, but did not see the outcome.
4" PVC is the size?

And that would be better than 1/2" incremented hole saw to make a ring in plywood?

 

[merkong]

3rd sheet of plywood ordered, expected delivery on Thursday.

Anyone want to weigh in on...The 2 pieces already cut are the expensive stuff. Cabinet grade birch 3/4", $80/sheet at HD.
This 3rd sheet, I "cheaped" out a bit and got AC plywood (1 side sanded smooth, other side not) and its pine.

Is it ok to use the pine as the Rail or the Base? Or is it really not advisable to use pine plywood for either part? I can switch to the expensive stuff still...

Rule of thumb; if it’s covered it’s the cheap stuff.

 

[merkong]

I saw you? someone? mention that in another thread, but did not see the outcome.
4" PVC is the size?

And that would be better than 1/2" incremented hole saw to make a ring in plywood?

Depends on the cupholder. I’m a haul with guy. Jumbo is 4” I believe.

You know, two-way v. jumbo etc etc

Two-way bad. Jumbo is the correct move. But, you have to plan for the rail to handle the jumbo. 6” wide.

 

[merkong]

Depends on the cupholder. I’m a haul with guy. Jumbo is 4” I believe.

You know, two-way v. jumbo etc etc

Two-way bad. Jumbo is the correct move. But, you have to plan for the rail to handle the jumbo. 6” wide.

That’s why people stay away from jumbo. Requires the wider rail.

 

[TheDirtMerchant]

Yup, I'm going with a 6" rail and jumbo cup holders.