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Introducing a conversion factor for low stakes Cash Game (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter ExileExistence
- Start date
Besides the structure (I think your buy range should be 100BB-200BB) I think you would probably want to do a setup similar to this
100/200/200/100/20 NCV/$.25/$1/$5/$25
You could always add on more $5s and up once you start playing stakes higher than $.25/$.25 which you don’t think will happen for a while.
I host a limp heavy game and rarely have to make change with 120 of my lowest denom
100/200/200/100/20 NCV/$.25/$1/$5/$25
You could always add on more $5s and up once you start playing stakes higher than $.25/$.25 which you don’t think will happen for a while.
I host a limp heavy game and rarely have to make change with 120 of my lowest denom
OP
OP
ExileExistence
High Hand
Let me clarify this for you guys: for me its mainly about creating a nice and authentic casino athmosphere/experience for my friends.
This might also include using real casino Paulsons and the typical denominations/colors most people are familiar with (white 1s, red 5s and green 25s). This is also beneficial since most casino Paulsons are mainly available in these denoms. The drawback: I'd have to play at least $1/$1 game with $100 buy-in (maybe $50 for short stacked)
This is way too high for me and my friends. We are all under 30 and most just startet their first job, others still studying. So we are rather at $5-$10 games (allowing rebuys which dont hurt) and to me it's really important that no one feels bad when losing and leaving with nothing. Yes, stakes might increase from time to time (maybe to $25 in the nearer future), but this is where we currently at. For me, there is no reason to play poker with my friends where the game is about making money, and with buy-ins of $100, we can straight up go to the casino at this point.
So I could try to get $0.25 Paulsons in my set, allowing to play $0.25/$0.25 with $25 buy-in. Still too high for now. And these fracs are way harder to get and more expensive. I would also have to skip on the nice green $25s since they are unnecessary in these games.
$0.05 chips for $0.05/$0.1 games would be perfect but obviously nearly dont exist in most Paulsons sets.
Simply put: I EITHER need to get myself a custom Tina set, but therefore can't use real casino Paulsons and won't use the typical colors (whites, reds, greens; because I am no fan of mixing the casino-standard color code and having a 0.25 as red),
OR play with a 'real casino' setup but need to introduce a conversion factor to adjust for my stakes and therefore remove the face-value=real-value relationship.
Also annoying, but can't have both.
And that was where I asked for your opinions. As an update: I already got myself my first Paulsons set with $1s as base. But I will very likely order a custom Tina set somewhere in the future, with my micro denoms. Just to have a bit of variety and cover both options. I also really dont mind spending a lot of money on my chips while still playing for cheesburger stakes (or in this case even less
). It's about the feeling, fun and activity, while I personally just go beserk on the hobby and enjoy the authenticity of nice chips.
This might also include using real casino Paulsons and the typical denominations/colors most people are familiar with (white 1s, red 5s and green 25s). This is also beneficial since most casino Paulsons are mainly available in these denoms. The drawback: I'd have to play at least $1/$1 game with $100 buy-in (maybe $50 for short stacked)
This is way too high for me and my friends. We are all under 30 and most just startet their first job, others still studying. So we are rather at $5-$10 games (allowing rebuys which dont hurt) and to me it's really important that no one feels bad when losing and leaving with nothing. Yes, stakes might increase from time to time (maybe to $25 in the nearer future), but this is where we currently at. For me, there is no reason to play poker with my friends where the game is about making money, and with buy-ins of $100, we can straight up go to the casino at this point.
So I could try to get $0.25 Paulsons in my set, allowing to play $0.25/$0.25 with $25 buy-in. Still too high for now. And these fracs are way harder to get and more expensive. I would also have to skip on the nice green $25s since they are unnecessary in these games.
$0.05 chips for $0.05/$0.1 games would be perfect but obviously nearly dont exist in most Paulsons sets.
Simply put: I EITHER need to get myself a custom Tina set, but therefore can't use real casino Paulsons and won't use the typical colors (whites, reds, greens; because I am no fan of mixing the casino-standard color code and having a 0.25 as red),
OR play with a 'real casino' setup but need to introduce a conversion factor to adjust for my stakes and therefore remove the face-value=real-value relationship.
Also annoying, but can't have both.
And that was where I asked for your opinions. As an update: I already got myself my first Paulsons set with $1s as base. But I will very likely order a custom Tina set somewhere in the future, with my micro denoms. Just to have a bit of variety and cover both options. I also really dont mind spending a lot of money on my chips while still playing for cheesburger stakes (or in this case even less
). It's about the feeling, fun and activity, while I personally just go beserk on the hobby and enjoy the authenticity of nice chips.
OP
OP
ExileExistence
High Hand
I also read a lot about this and thought 100xBB is the standard max buy-in (which would also be the typical buy-in, not less, in my cash games). I like having many chips in play, especially with my limping friends to avoif change making. So interesting to read about your experience here. However, I though 200xBB is too much and also requires way more chips, especially when bank also has to cover for rebuys.
For my Paulsons set, I am currently trying to complete it with $25 to end up with: 200/400/160/40 for $1/$5/$25/$100. I know, waaay too much for single table game, but allows me to play $2/5 or maybe even $5/$10 with less players. And I love to be prepared for a full table
When ordering a custom Tina set, I will have to go over the correct breakdown again and adjust the numbers.
1:100 FTW. My set is for .05/.10 to .25/.25 deep or .25/.50 100 BBs 6 max. it's a tribute to the hotel and original chips, so I wanted to keep $s on the inlays.
Not really.
My current set is 120/200/260/100/40 (.25/1/5/25/100) and I host a .25/.25 game $25-$50 buy ins.
My standard buy in is a barrel of .25 ($5) (until I run out at 6 buy ins) and a barrel of 1s ($20) plus 0-5 $5 chips to cover the extra buy in after those two barrels. So it’s only 5 extra chips to cover a 200bb buy in.
I think your current set up is great, but I don’t see any use for the $1 chips, you could just run a .05/.05 game and it would run the exact same and you wouldn’t have useless 1 cent chips. Unless you actually move up in stakes and use them for face value.
Gojira777
Pair
I‘d prefer a 1:100 ratio as well if I‘d have to play with a conversion factor. But I‘m not a fan of it.
I would try to find some chips that you like and that fit your set that you can relabel as quarters. Get 2 racks for 1 table, and a rack of solids/hotstamps or something as nickels. Can be (re)labeled as well.
That is what I‘m doing right now. Building a full mixed set and relabeling when I got everything. Meanwhile we play with CC Pharaos, I like them a lot for what they are. We play .05/.10 with 10€ buyins too. 100/200/200/100 is perfect for an 8 handed table. The 5s are mainly for future proofing for a .10/.25 or .25/.25 game.
I would try to find some chips that you like and that fit your set that you can relabel as quarters. Get 2 racks for 1 table, and a rack of solids/hotstamps or something as nickels. Can be (re)labeled as well.
That is what I‘m doing right now. Building a full mixed set and relabeling when I got everything. Meanwhile we play with CC Pharaos, I like them a lot for what they are. We play .05/.10 with 10€ buyins too. 100/200/200/100 is perfect for an 8 handed table. The 5s are mainly for future proofing for a .10/.25 or .25/.25 game.
My friends and I just played tonight. We play 5c/10c. I don’t have Paulsons or Tinas, but I have several sets (Majestic, Bluff Canyon, Ultimate and Monte Carlo). I only have the 5c with my Monte Carlo set, but my guys have no issue with recognizing the number on the chip are cents and not dollars. 1:100 is the way to go
4SUMERZ
Flush
I'm sure you will get lot's of replies and ideas on your chip structure blinds etc. I host a cash game, 8 players. We all toss a $2 in a pot, and whoever had the highest hand of the 4.5 hr session wins the pot of $16. Everyone has a chance to get the high hand to the last deal.
We play low stakes at $0.25/$0.25 blinds with $25 starting stack.
The high hand pot makes it interesting as the high hand changes as the night moves along..
We play low stakes at $0.25/$0.25 blinds with $25 starting stack.
The high hand pot makes it interesting as the high hand changes as the night moves along..
Nymor
3 of a Kind
My game we typically play 5/10p or 5/10/25p Mixed/Circus cash or £20 Deepstack Holdem/Omaha/Mixed Tournies. Single table 8-max.
I have a 800 piece Tina chip set with values from 5 - 25000 and use the same chip set for both formats. For Cash we use the 5/25/100/500/1000 as 5p, 25p, £1, £5 and £10 and for my Tournies I manage to get all the denoms on the table at some point, although the 5s are only for bullets (start with 25K + 3 bullets worth 25K each).
I appreciate that many discourage using the same set for both formats but I only have the one set, players are friends that I trust more than randoms, the chips are a unique design and I count chips back into the case at the end of a session. 3-4 years of playing this way without incident. As long as you understand the potential issues with a single set and mitigate against them where you can then it's a viable solution.
I have a 800 piece Tina chip set with values from 5 - 25000 and use the same chip set for both formats. For Cash we use the 5/25/100/500/1000 as 5p, 25p, £1, £5 and £10 and for my Tournies I manage to get all the denoms on the table at some point, although the 5s are only for bullets (start with 25K + 3 bullets worth 25K each).
I appreciate that many discourage using the same set for both formats but I only have the one set, players are friends that I trust more than randoms, the chips are a unique design and I count chips back into the case at the end of a session. 3-4 years of playing this way without incident. As long as you understand the potential issues with a single set and mitigate against them where you can then it's a viable solution.
Last edited:
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