First CPC Cash Set draft design (1 Viewer)

Kam

High Hand
Supporter
Joined
Mar 3, 2023
Messages
76
Reaction score
143
Location
San Diego
Hey everyone,

I've started to narrow down my first CPC cash set design, and welcome any thoughts/feedback as I refine the chip design/quantities and begin to think about the inlay.

Received good advice about SAMPLES (and it's a theme across the forum), so I bought the CPC mold & color set, plus a Rounders sample. These were my first true clay chips, so was a bit surprised initially at how dusty they were - after a quick clean all the colors came out, although Dayglo Orange didn't seem to have any... glo? I also received a bunch last week of plastic/ceramic/clay at different price points from a few vendors and was able to compare all of them:

Chip sample 1.jpg
Chip sample 2.jpg


My initial thoughts were for the cheaper end of the spectrum, the Pharaohs were definitely much sharper in quality than my current Nexgen Pro classics with beveled edges vs sharp, however, they were too smooth and actually felt more 'plasticky'. The Nexgens have a faux texture on them so although they don't look as good, they feel better. I wasn't a big fan of ceramics from a texture and sound perspective, although the colors were good - they just didn't feel premium. I was really impressed by the bright colors on the Jumers, however the chips themselves were really dinged up and some quite dirty, with some edges worn all the way down to the THC imprint - so that put me off (although I'm conscious you could probably try to buy 'minty' chips to avoid this). I like the Rounders chips for feel, but apart from the 25c & $100 High Society sentimentality chip, not a fan of the rest of the colors. With all that being said, I convinced myself CPC custom was still the best path.

I played around with the Poker Chip Design Tool and my first few iterations were more of a wannabe Tiger Palace / Casa Mango dayglo set as that was what I've been drawn to recently. Once I actually received the color samples, it changed my mind completely about what I was looking for. I was drawn more to the retro colors as the base, then using the dayglo to highlight.

I used the Canva color wheel to try and help give me an idea of colors that would be complementary/triadic etc, was fun and interesting to play around with that: https://www.canva.com/colors/color-wheel/

So here is my current Retro Revamp iteration: 25c Blue, $1 white, $5 red, $25 green, $100 Black:

Retro Revamp 3.png


Aaaand then came the sticker shock. Some of my designs were higher 'L' levels, so initially, I was in the $3.4k region. I simplified most to be <=L5, so we're averaging $3.27 a chip.

I'm still playing around and researching on the forum the quantities vs denomination. I plan to host 10 person single table cash games, with .25/.25 $25-$50 buy-in on the low end, however, would like to host/grow to mid-level $1/$2 games as well. I eliminated the $0.05 chip from my design after reading a bunch of other opinions here, and I'm keeping the $100 really just for MOAR chip vanity. Here's my rough table:

Retro Revamp cost estimate r1.JPG


In summary, after back and forth and admiring some cheaper options like some of the great custom ceramic sets here, I'm getting ready to take the plunge and it's now or never really. I'll start researching how to approach the inlay design aspect next, so appreciate any guidance to specific threads or folk for that.

Cheers,
Kam.
 
I played around with the Poker Chip Design Tool and my first few iterations were more of a wannabe Tiger Palace / Casa Mango dayglo set as that was what I've been drawn to recently. Once I actually received the color samples, it changed my mind completely about what I was looking for. I was drawn more to the retro colors as the base, then using the dayglo to highlight.
CPC, to me anyway, is all about the old school feel. Retro is the way to go.

Take your time!
 
Personally, I would shy away from going blue and white on both the fracs and the ones, to avoid dirty stacks.
I agree with this. I really like the white $1 with the blue gradient spots, so I would totally rework the frac to use neither blue nor white. A secondary consideration is the re-use of DG green on both the $5 and $100. That’s a pretty minor quibble, but I personally try to avoid using the exact same color on two chips that could be in play at the same time.

I do think your breakdown could still be improved. 200 fracs is at least 80 more (I’d argue 120 more) than you need for 10 players. I would cut those back and either save some money or put it towards the top end of the set instead.
 
I agree with the folks here on redesigning your fractional chip (you have no yellow in your set, maybe here?). I will disagree on the quantity, I fully support the 200 quantity BUT, that's how my game plays and I am by far in the minority in this opinion so take that for what it's worth. Also make sure you get more chips than you need for any particular denom, just in case.

You did say you like some of the Rounders chips, why not use that style as a template and change colors or even some spot patterns to ones you prefer?
 
  • Like
Reactions: Kam
Great start!

Once you've narrowed down your mold choice, get a stack of at least 10 to see how they feel and shuffle.

I'd put a lot of thought into who you'll be inviting to your game, the stakes they'll be comfortable with, what a realistic number of players is for each game, and design your breakdown around this. Things to think about:

- You'll probably need a pool of at least 20 players to regularly fill a table of 10.

- These players will all need to be comfortable with the same stakes for a sustainable game in the long run.

- Or do you want to spend a lot of time continually recruiting to replenish players that lose too much money?

- Is it likely that your 20 players will all be comfortable with both .25/.25 and 1/2, or will you need two groups of 20 players?

- where are you going to find these players? Friends/family/co workers, or randoms?

worm2.jpg
 
Welcome to the addiction!

First, you only need 100 fracs, 120 max. Don't waste money on chips you're not going to use. I would plan on a 100/200/200/100/40 set. Maybe an extra rack of 5s if 1/2 is in your future.

Secondly, take your time - these chips will take a while to produce so don't rush it and end up with something that's not perfect for you.

Thirdly, take your time - yes, you can buy Paulsons at $4-$10 a chip and sell them for the same if you don't like them but that won't happen with CPCs so your money invested is for you and you only - make sure it's right first time. Only in the rarest of cases are sets so spectacular that they command reasonable prices on the open market.

Fourthly, shaped inlays are the bomb.
 
Great start!

Once you've narrowed down your mold choice, get a stack of at least 10 to see how they feel and shuffle.

I'd put a lot of thought into who you'll be inviting to your game, the stakes they'll be comfortable with, what a realistic number of players is for each game, and design your breakdown around this. Things to think about:

- You'll probably need a pool of at least 20 players to regularly fill a table of 10.

- These players will all need to be comfortable with the same stakes for a sustainable game in the long run.

- Or do you want to spend a lot of time continually recruiting to replenish players that lose too much money?

- Is it likely that your 20 players will all be comfortable with both .25/.25 and 1/2, or will you need two groups of 20 players?

- where are you going to find these players? Friends/family/co workers, or randoms?

View attachment 1099130
Agree with this ^^^. My group plays monthly at 25¢/25¢ blinds with $40 buy-in. I generally reach out to around 50 and usually have 10-12 people each month. The one thing I would add is always be recruiting. Also, I love a white $1, but just want to make sure you are aware that bright white is an additional 55¢ per chip.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Kam
Love your $1- do you really need 200 quarters?
This.

You originally were going to have nickels in your set. I used to play a lot of nickel/dime, and so I was also of the mind that I needed 160-200 quarters. Which you can support in a nickel game. But as I've started to phase out the nickel games, I have realized that game play is much better (.25/.25 or .25/.50) with no more that 12 quarters per player on the table. And my current host has reduced that even further. He gives a full barrel of quarters to the first 4-5 players who buy in, then everyone gets $1s and up after that. One night we had 8 players and he only handed out 60 quarters. The game played just fine.

So unless you have a table full of nits who only min raise all the time, one rack of quarters should do you just fine.
 
I like it as a good start. Not much to add that hasn't been said...

200 quarters seems like a lot. 100-120 is plenty for a single table. You might want more 25s anyway if playing 1/2, could shift from the quarters.

Agree the quarter and single might need deconflicted. Lots of choices here. I like a peach, dg yellow, arc yellow, butterscotch, or chocolate and a different spot pattern...414, 214, or 212 perhaps.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Kam
Don’t listen to anyone telling you that 200 quarters is too many. If you like that, do it. It’s how my sets are built also. I like lots of chips on the table. I would rather have 100 more fracs out there than 25 $1s.

Also, change the chip design tool background to gray. Easier on the eyes and will give you a better idea IMO. Also, I would figure out a theme/inlay first before design on colors. Your theme might not end up matching,
 
My advice: design a set you like, then sit on it for a couple of months and come back to it before you put the order in. Chances are your tastes will continue to evolve as you spend more time on the forums and see different sets and edge spots. The CPC set that I designed when I joined the forum would have no interest to me today. Take your time and figure out what you really like (also recommend purchasing a set or two of Paulson’s if you can and seeing them in person - can always sell them back on the forums).
 
Don’t listen to anyone telling you that 200 quarters is too many. If you like that, do it. It’s how my sets are built also. I like lots of chips on the table. I would rather have 100 more fracs out there than 25 $1s.
That’s a totally fair take, and I used to be in the “more chips = more fun” crowd myself for a very long time. So, my revised advice to OP would be stick with 200 fracs if you know you like lots of chips on the table and they fit in your budget. However, if budget is a concern or you prefer efficiency, understand that a 10 person game will run perfectly smoothly with only 8 fracs per player. There really isn’t a wrong answer, it’s entirely down to your preferences.
 
Get your 200 quarters. Don’t listen to everyone who tries to lay out how your game should run. I play in, and have run cash games myself, that easily employ 200 fracs. Need or rules has nothing to do with it.

Sick of all the rules setting with respect to 200 fracs. I have 200 fracs in multiple cash sets. Nothing wrong with it. No need to be so rigid with how you build a set.

Do what you WANT!
 
I run a .25/.25 game and like to give 12-16 quarters to each person. So for my cash sets I don't like less than 160

tbh there is always some limping at my tables.
I play in a game that is 100% similar. We just love the quarters. Get them all into play. Large stacks. Some fall over. It’s good fun with good buds! They aren’t even chippers except for the host.

It’s all Fracs and $1s by the end. Maybe a few $5s and a single $20. Hahahahaha!
 
Get your 200 quarters. Don’t listen to everyone who tries to lay out how your game should run. I play in, and have run cash games myself, that easily employ 200 fracs. Need or rules has nothing to do with it.

Sick of all the rules setting with respect to 200 fracs. I have 200 fracs in multiple cash sets. Nothing wrong with it. No need to be so rigid with how you build a set.

Do what you WANT!
I don't think anyone here is telling him what to do. He's a new member. He came here asking questions and looking for advice. Unless he's been running a game for many years, he may not know yet what he wants. We are all sharing our real world experiences with him so that he can make his own informed decision.

When I was new here I asked a million questions trying to gain insight. And I got lots of suggestions for questions I didn't even ask. Some of them I aggressively disagreed with at first, then after some time passed, I realized the points were usually quite valid. I still made my own final decisions, but I was glad to have the opposing ideas to think about.

Fracs is one of those areas where I have completely flipped my way of thinking after a couple of years of regular live play experience that I didn't have when I first joined. I still like big piles of chips in front of me, but now I want big piles of $5s, not big piles of quarters!
 
Thanks everyone for the constructive feedback and insights.

I appreciate the frac debate and different perspectives :) I'll need to chew on that one a little longer, although I'm leaning towards having a few too many than too few. I think part of my quantity vs denom challenge is I don't have an established game setup yet - so don't have a feel for betting patterns/ depth, and I'm happy to host smaller stakes/ ad hoc friendly games where folk are somewhat new to the game. I'll play around with the quantities and post an update.

I revised the 25c base chip color due to the initial feedback on the navy frac conflicting with the $1 with blue spots and the repeat DG. But then it was like the butterfly effect on the rest of my chips, and one thing lead to another. So anyway, I started blastin'... only the $1 chip survived. I ended up back with a Dark Blue frac, but I think it's distinct enough from the white $1 to avoid dirty stacks.

5 iterations later and here is my updated cash set: Dark Blue 25c, White $1, Red $5, Green $25, Black $100:

Retro Revamp 8.png


The colors don't show that accurately here with my photo/lighting skills, however, I played around with the sample set to get a feel for the different colors. Dayglo Saturn is completely different in person vs on the screen (luminous yellow vs matte mustard IRL) so I ditched that for canary yellow when I put the chips together. The 25c dark blue shows almost as black in the photo, but since it's a 25c chip, not concerned about dirty stacks/conflicting with the $100 at the same time - and I'm unlikely to be using the $100 that often:
Colors.jpg


Inspiration/themes center around activities I love here:

25c - color scheme based on early morning sunrises over the pacific when out near/ on the water
25c 1.JPG
25c 2.jpg


$1: Love heading up to the mountains in the winter, bluebird days at Mammoth
$1 1.jpg


$5: Wife & Pup in the mountains:

$5 1.jpg
$5 2.jpg


$25 - Kayaking in the bay / ocean
$25.jpg


$100: yellow fins on the black custom carbon fiber surfboard

$100.JPG


Last thought on the molds - I only paid attention to the mold design at first, then read somewhere on the forum that the B diamond had a better texture. I went back through and was surprised at how different the molds were when you look at the overall pattern imprint across the whole chip. The B was definitely the best for feel/ tactile in my opinion, some were completely smooth and not what I'm looking for.

Cheers,

Kam
 
I would worry about the 25$ and 100$ in bad lighting as they are both very dark, but maybe that is just me. I see the green chip benefit from being a lighter green color as both the 5 and the 100 are dark based.
 
Get your 200 quarters. Don’t listen to everyone who tries to lay out how your game should run. I play in, and have run cash games myself, that easily employ 200 fracs. Need or rules has nothing to do with it.

Sick of all the rules setting with respect to 200 fracs. I have 200 fracs in multiple cash sets. Nothing wrong with it. No need to be so rigid with how you build a set.

Do what you WANT!
I like big stacks. Fracs build big stacks….






Got any TP secondary fracs?
 
I like big stacks. Fracs build big stacks….






Got any TP secondary fracs?
I surely wish I did!

I’m still hoping to make a primary cash set, and I have no TP fracs. I’m gonna have to overlabel to get over the finish line.

Wish I could help ya mate. I think you wanted $500P, but @kk405 was nice to offer a trade that helped me, so I traded them.

I have a barrel of $500S , if that is of any value to you.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Kam
I like where you are going, some good spot combos. My only thoughts:

1. Dark green, dark blue, and black are really close in poor lighting. I think your spots are different enough that it shouldn’t be an issue. You have the colors, so you know what you’re getting into.

2. Have you set a budget or looked at unit costs? Your top 2 chips get expensive fast.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Kam
Take your time! I’ve designed hundreds of CPC line ups and my taste changes weekly. To me the $5 and maybe the $1(but not entirely) are the only chips that give me the “retro” feel. The rest don’t scream retro at all and to me it just doesn’t all flow. Again that’s me and these are your chips, just some friendly advice.
- Even though the .25 and $100 won’t be in play together, them in the same “set” tilts me greatly bc they are way too close in color.
- If your game moves to $1/2 you still won’t need 40 $100’s so I’d lean towards 80 - $25’s and 20 - $100’s rather than 60/40.
- I would suggest doing 300 - $5’s as well for once you move up to $1/2.
- the Frac is level 7 which is super expensive. I like spot progression so sometimes less is more when it comes to fracs. (Again your chips just my opinion)

I love following these feeds.
Good luck!
 
I would worry about the 25$ and 100$ in bad lighting as they are both very dark, but maybe that is just me. I see the green chip benefit from being a lighter green color as both the 5 and the 100 are dark based.
Frac and Hundo far too close in base color IMHO. You are correct about the $25, I made a change in mine for that very reason. It's not just colors but lightness/darkness.

At .25/.50 and even 1/2 the $1 and $5 are going to be your work chips so put most of your effort and qauntity there. I'd keep the frac simple, but that's me. You can go crazy with the Hundo because you won't need many but you also don't want to piss away your budget on a Level 11 chip that will rarely if ever see play. I have hundos but don't really need 'em. But they are a great "bank" chip. Always get more chips than you think you need in case you lose some, some break, you game expands, etc. With custom CPC it is not quick, and that's one hell of an understatement, to get replacements.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Kam
Just when you think you're happy with your chip design, a bunch of folk come along and give a load of... very valid input :) Loved looking through the other mock-ups and appreciate hearing about other chip color lessons learned - which is why I'm here! I updated the set to try and get it to flow better from a progression perspective, remove the potential conflicts in color, and consider dark/light etc, royalties may be owed... Realized that as much as I like the retro colors, they are too dark for what I'm trying to do so I've decided to move away from that approach of using them as the sole base colors.

I designed 3 fracs, yellow, lavender and dayglo blue (first 3 chips below, with one to be 25c). The canary yellow is likely the smart choice, but I still prefer the blue...

Retro Revamp 10.png

Canary.jpg
retro 10.jpg


Also made some updates to the quantities, reduced the fracs & $100, bumped up $5 & $25:

1679015401429.png


Thoughts?

Cheers,

Kam
 

Create an account or login to comment

You must be a member in order to leave a comment

Create account

Create an account and join our community. It's easy!

Log in

Already have an account? Log in here.

Back
Top Bottom