Crazy Topper Build with Built-in 55" TV (9 Viewers)

[Trihonda]

I have two similar-design exhaust/cooling fans installed in a cabinet that houses a cable box, wireless router, telephone converter, and UPS. The fans plug into USB ports, don't make much noise at all, and keep the four electronics devices plenty cool. I think 110v units would be huge overkill for your set-up, especially if you already have the table wired for USB.

I don’t currently have the table wired for USB. But it will be (is) wired for 110v... I ordered the 110 fan I linked since it appeared rated for half the dba as it’s nearest competitor. We will see. If the noise levels are intrusive it’s good to hear you’ve had success with the usb fans.

 

[Forty4]

I don’t currently have the table wired for USB. But it will be (is) wired for 110v... I ordered the 110 fan I linked since it appeared rated for half the dba as it’s nearest competitor. We will see. If the noise levels are intrusive it’s good to hear you’ve had success with the usb fans.

TV will probably have a USB port

 

[atomiktoaster]

Looks fun! I'd second a tempered glass top. Should be able to find a glass and mirror shop to custom cut something. The stiffness and scratch resistance will be worlds better. You see glass top coffee tables and shelves all the time for similar reasons.

 

[Trihonda]

Looks fun! I'd second a tempered glass top. Should be able to find a glass and mirror shop to custom cut something. The stiffness and scratch resistance will be worlds better. You see glass top coffee tables and shelves all the time for similar reasons.

I was hesitant about the tempered glass initially, as I figured it would be cost prohibitive. I had priced the plexi and it was going to come in at around $100 for a cut section. Calling several different quotes for custom cut one quarter inch thick tempered glass will run me around $95. Looks like we have a winner folks. Thank you for the suggestions, as I feel like this will actually provide better protection, and scratch resistance.

I will still pick up a piece of thin or plexi (or even plywood) as an underlayment to protect the poker felt. This should be much more reasonable

 

[RowdyRawhide]

.....cost prohibitive. .....

How long have you been on this forum

 

[Trihonda]

How long have you been on this forum

Touché

 

[allforcharity]

I, personally, would still go for the acrylic over the tempered glass. Way lighter and easier to move, won't accidentally shatter, still very strong. I doubt you'll be scratching it so bad that you'll notice, considering you're putting simple gaming supplies and books on it.

 

[Trihonda]

I, personally, would still go for the acrylic over the tempered glass. Way lighter and easier to move, won't accidentally shatter, still very strong. I doubt you'll be scratching it so bad that you'll notice, considering you're putting simple gaming supplies and books on it.

ok, you’re killing me... I was all set to go glass, and now you pull this...? Now I can’t decide.

 

[WedgeRock]

Since we are at a moment of indecision, what about building a dedicated table? If there is unknown about damaging the felt and custom cloth, why not build a box to hold the TV. It can be simple but custom, so no retro fitting... I would hate to see the poker table damaged.

 

[Trihonda]

Since we are at a moment of indecision, what about building a dedicated table? If there is unknown about damaging the felt and custom cloth, why not build a box to hold the TV. It can be simple but custom, so no retro fitting... I would hate to see the poker table damaged.

i was very tempted to simply build a topper for the poker table, and then a portable box/enclosure for the TV... and sit that atop the topper. But I was leaning towards flush mounting it. As the enclosure would be elevated a few inches. But the enclosure certainly opens up other options and solves some other concerns.

 

[atomiktoaster]

26 lbs of glass vs 12 lbs for the acrylic. You won't notice the weight moving it with 2 people, I expect, if it's permanently installed in the topper.

 

[Trihonda]

26 lbs of glass vs 12 lbs for the acrylic. You won't notice the weight moving it with 2 people, I expect, if it's permanently installed in the topper.

whatever I use, acrylic vs glass, I was planning to use a thin bead of silicone around the edge to help hold it in place. I will store the topper ON the table and remove it for poker nights. I’ll just stash the topper in the adjacent spare bedroom (leaned up against a wall). I don’t want the glass coming out

 

[allforcharity]

26 lbs of glass vs 12 lbs for the acrylic. You won't notice the weight moving it with 2 people, I expect, if it's permanently installed in the topper.

Then add the weight of the monitor, plus the frame, etc.

 

[atomiktoaster]

whatever I use, acrylic vs glass, I was planning to use a thin bead of silicone around the edge to help hold it in place. I will store the topper ON the table and remove it for poker nights. I’ll just stash the topper in the adjacent spare bedroom (leaned up against a wall). I don’t want the glass coming out

Some actual glass and mirror adhesive might be more secure. Silicone isn't the strongest stuff.

Then add the weight of the monitor, plus the frame, etc.

Sure, but it's apples to apples. Since the whole thing isn't going to be light, an extra 14 lbs shouldn't make a big difference. You're team lifting this bad boy no matter what.

 

[Trihonda]

Some actual glass and mirror adhesive might be more secure. Silicone isn't the strongest stuff.



Sure, but it's apples to apples. Since the whole thing isn't going to be light, an extra 14 lbs shouldn't make a big difference. You're team lifting this bad boy no matter what.

Again, the TV only weighs 17lbs. It’s by far the lightest TV I’ve seen in this class, which might actually be about the same weight as the 48”x28” piece of 3/4” ply I’ll be cutting out of the middle. Lol.

 

[RowdyRawhide]

Again, the TV only weighs 17lbs. It’s by far the lightest TV I’ve seen in this class, which might actually be about the same weight as the 48”x28” piece of 3/4” ply I’ll be cutting out of the middle. Lol.

I believe 3/4 in plywood weighs about 1 1/2 - 2lbs per sq ft...if that helps with an over all weight estimate (which you must already know with your above estimation.)

 

[Trihonda]

I have two similar-design exhaust/cooling fans installed in a cabinet that houses a cable box, wireless router, telephone converter, and UPS. The fans plug into USB ports, don't make much noise at all, and keep the four electronics devices plenty cool. I think 110v units would be huge overkill for your set-up, especially if you already have the table wired for USB.

TV will probably have a USB port

Well, I went ahead and ordered a couple more fan setups from Amazon. I ordered a single and double fan with USB hookup. Not sure which one I'll use, but the one I don't use can get plugged into my PS4 system to keep it cool.

The more I thought about it, if I used AC, sure I'll have a power strip in there, but I would hate to have to lift the table topper up each time to plug in the fan. If I plug them into the TV, hopefully it won't power the fan until the TV is turned on. I checked the TV specs and it says one USB 2.0 out. I'm assuming that will provide enough power? And I'm assuming it's not powering when the TV is off (I'll have to test it to make sure).

Boy, still keeping the set-on-top TV box as an option for this build... I really think it's a much cooler (baller) setup to have it flush mounted, and allows for books and such to spill over onto the screen (as space will be tight otherwise), but it's certainly creating a lot of logistical issues to make it happen... Fans, Grommets, Concerns about damaging the poker felt... etc....

Here's a video of someone who made a box... it'd be cool, but not as cool as flush mounting...

 

[Trihonda]

table build is IN progress...

snagged a nice piece of birch ply. Started to work on cutting it to fit. Should overhang 1” on all sides. I’d love a skirt, but I don’t think I’ll have enough room, so it’ll just sit on top of the vinyl rail. I’ll add some bumpers on the inside so it doesn’t shift around.

a router is the only way to get nice arc (aside from CNC)

edge banded with birch

used levels to mock where the screen will fit

 

[Trihonda]

Got quite a bit accomplished this evening, with the help of my buddy (Cody).

I routed relief grooves that will float over the rail. The idea is this will allow some air intake, and allow for the power cord to wrap around and be routed back towards the power supply in the legs.

We routed the rabbit grove where the tempered glass will rest.

going with two exhaust fans. These are usb powered and only turn on when the TV is turned on. The other side will allow routing for HDMI and other cabling.

 

[Trihonda]

Pics my buddy Took of the build in progress.

Drilling holes for the grommets

Used clamped levels as a router guide

 

[stonker]

WOW!!! Nice work. Cant wait to see the finished product.

 

[sheikh617]

SO excited to see it in progress. Can't wait to see more pics!

 

[Dr Lecterr]

Watching this thread!!! So cool

 

[CraigT78]

55" TV - MEH. I'd be impressed if this was a >65". But yeah, looks cool - even with that small screen.

 

[Trihonda]

Any thoughts on stain color? I went to my local “stain” and hardware store and found two color options.. pure black or onyx. They have pure black in super small cans. Need a few. Or I can get onyx in the correct sized can. I want a black colored stain. Which to choose? Anyone have experience with these? @T_Chan what color do you use on the black drink carts? I have a number of these and matching this would be good.

 

[Trihonda]

55" TV - MEH. I'd be impressed if this was a >65". But yeah, looks cool - even with that small screen.

the 55”screen is almost too big. There’s a lot of fitment under the topper surface. With the bracing/framing that is required, there’s not much spare room left. Plus, you want some area around the edge for players to place books, dice, etc.

...but I do like where your head is at.

 

[T_Chan]

Any thoughts on stain color? I went to my local “stain” and hardware store and found two color options.. pure black or onyx. They have pure black in super small cans. Need a few. Or I can get onyx in the correct sized can. I want a black colored stain. Which to choose? Anyone have experience with these? @T_Chan what color do you use on the black drink carts? I have a number of these and matching this would be good.

Classic black polyshades by Minwax. It's a 2 in 1 stain and finish. I don't use the product anymore though as I now prefer to apply a lacquer after the fact so that there's no chance of color rubbing off.

 

[Trihonda]

Classic black polyshades by Minwax. It's a 2 in 1 stain and finish. I don't use the product anymore though as I now prefer to apply a lacquer after the fact so that there's no chance of color rubbing off.

Thank you sir

I was planning to do a couple coats of urethane over the black stain.

 

[bsdunbar1]

My son and I refinished a kitchen table for him that was painted black. We wanted to stain it black and none of the Minwax stains came close to "BLACK" other than True Black 274

 

[Trihonda]

My son and I refinished a kitchen table for him that was painted black. We wanted to stain it black and none of the Minwax stains came close to "BLACK" other than True Black 274

hmmm, good to know. I was wondering this... I was almost Gonna do onyx, because people have said it’s like black... but in the store display, i liked the true black better.

Edited: I ordered the true black in amazon in the size can I need. Way cheaper than buying a bunch of smaller cans.