Barrington poker table thread

jcooper911

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Did my refelt on Monday. Pretty happy with it. Plan to do deeper cupholders and add some handles for easier table handling.

This thread was clutch city in the process.
Nice work man, looks pure.
 

Littleluck55

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I helped a friend of mine re-do his Barrington table. He isn’t a PCF member, but I wanted to share his work. It turned out great.
 

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Littleluck55

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Dodger

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I helped a friend of mine re-do his Barrington table. He isn’t a PCF member, but I wanted to share his work. It turned out great.

Those are the marine cup holders on Amazon. Wide top with the skinnier bottom for a beer bottle. They do have to come out to fold the table up properly.

SeaLux 4pcs Stainless Steel Cup Drink Holder with Drain for Marine Boat RV Camper https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0097MF4DU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_W4BXZ6R6E4J29A6918AK

Looking fantastic!

It’s nice to see someone go with the deeper/wider cup holders on this specific table upgrade. Solid work!
 

SixSpeedFury

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For those who installed deeper/wider cups, does the table still fold as normal or did you have to reconfigure some things to make it fold flush?
 

Dodger

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For those who installed deeper/wider cups, does the table still fold as normal or did you have to reconfigure some things to make it fold flush?

I went with the deeper cup holders, but still standard width. I believe they are 2 1/4 inches tall. Table folds up no problem for storage. When you move up to the jumbo size cup holders, the depth of the cup holder increases as well so you may have to remove them prior to folding.
 

pipdenny

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Here was my experience, mostly following what I've read in this amazing thread with a couple of new things (at least I think they are new).

I drilled out the cupholders first. I used this auto trim remover tool kit I bought from harbor freight for a few bucks. If you back out the screws underneath the rail just a bit (enough for it to be able to lift up a little without becoming detached completely), and shimmy this auto trim remover tool underneath the cupholder while heating with a blow-dryer, they pop right out.

Another HUGE plus to drilling out the cupholders first, in my opinion, is that the hole and new cupholder will acts as a sort of alignment guide peg when reassembling the rail. After re-felting, you just lay the rail on top and insert the new cupholders. This way, there were absolutely no issues with alignment of the rail pieces; everything went back precisely in the same position/orientation.


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From there, I drilled out the cupholders without having to worry about snagging the cloth. Note that you will only be able to drill out 6 of the cupholders as the other 4 are obstructed by the legs underneath. What I did was drill those 4 about halfway (to make sure I was drilling in the exact correct spot), then finished the job when the legs were removed. If I did this again, I would DEFINITELY buy a better hole saw bit. This thing was cheap and dull, and I nearly started a few fires. Be careful if you have a cheap dull bit like this the friction will cause the wood to smoke.

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Another note. Wait for the glue to dry again after blow-drying or else it will gum up the teeth of the hole saw bit.
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One last note is that you do not have to remove the screws underneath the rails completely. I just backed them out enough to remove the rail, but kept them screwed into the top. This way, you don't have to worry about labeling each one. This coupled with the cupholder-alignment-guide-peg thing mentioned earlier made for a totally seemless reassembly.


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Here is me attempting to line up the cloth (I deemed it "good enough" especially doing this alone)

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Finished product:




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Super easy and fun project! I could not have done this without this forum, thank you all!!
 

Regularjohn

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Here was my experience, mostly following what I've read in this amazing thread with a couple of new things (at least I think they are new).

I drilled out the cupholders first. I used this auto trim remover tool kit I bought from harbor freight for a few bucks. If you back out the screws underneath the rail just a bit (enough for it to be able to lift up a little without becoming detached completely), and shimmy this auto trim remover tool underneath the cupholder while heating with a blow-dryer, they pop right out.

Another HUGE plus to drilling out the cupholders first, in my opinion, is that the hole and new cupholder will acts as a sort of alignment guide peg when reassembling the rail. After re-felting, you just lay the rail on top and insert the new cupholders. This way, there were absolutely no issues with alignment of the rail pieces; everything went back precisely in the same position/orientation.


View attachment 629197

View attachment 629193 View attachment 629194 View attachment 629195View attachment 629196

From there, I drilled out the cupholders without having to worry about snagging the cloth. Note that you will only be able to drill out 6 of the cupholders as the other 4 are obstructed by the legs underneath. What I did was drill those 4 about halfway (to make sure I was drilling in the exact correct spot), then finished the job when the legs were removed. If I did this again, I would DEFINITELY buy a better hole saw bit. This thing was cheap and dull, and I nearly started a few fires. Be careful if you have a cheap dull bit like this the friction will cause the wood to smoke.

View attachment 629198

Another note. Wait for the glue to dry again after blow-drying or else it will gum up the teeth of the hole saw bit.
View attachment 629200

One last note is that you do not have to remove the screws underneath the rails completely. I just backed them out enough to remove the rail, but kept them screwed into the top. This way, you don't have to worry about labeling each one. This coupled with the cupholder-alignment-guide-peg thing mentioned earlier made for a totally seemless reassembly.


View attachment 629201View attachment 629202

Here is me attempting to line up the cloth (I deemed it "good enough" especially doing this alone)

View attachment 629204View attachment 629205

Finished product:




View attachment 629206

Super easy and fun project! I could not have done this without this forum, thank you all!!
Very nice! Did the same color.

PS if I can only find chairs like that now...
 

jamesd57

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Out of curiosity, does anyone know if it is possible to add lights to the standard Barrington table by just attaching some underneath the rails while re-installing them? (So in between the felt and the rail)
 

tabletalker7

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Out of curiosity, does anyone know if it is possible to add lights to the standard Barrington table by just attaching some underneath the rails while re-installing them? (So in between the felt and the rail)
You would need to add something between the table and the rail to hold up the rail so the lights can go under it. As is, the rail is flush with the table
 

jonn1ecakes

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Out of curiosity, does anyone know if it is possible to add lights to the standard Barrington table by just attaching some underneath the rails while re-installing them? (So in between the felt and the rail)
Some have attached the LED lights that go behind your TV underneath the table.
 

SixSpeedFury

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I reached out to a few local tent/canvas/awning places to ask about potentially making a heavy duty carry bag with handles or straps. Would anyone be interested if we can get a multiple discount? What's a cost that would be appealing?
This would be great as there's not much out there on the market.
 

JRald07

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I reached out to a few local tent/canvas/awning places to ask about potentially making a heavy duty carry bag with handles or straps. Would anyone be interested if we can get a multiple discount? What's a cost that would be appealing?
I would be interested depending on price. I have two other friends that would be interested as well!
 

SirFatalx

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My table seems to be defective when I first got it and I am afraid to take it apart because I don't know if I could get it back together because it's unaligned. Is it possible to buy a custom sized topper to place on top of the felt instead? I saw some on Amazon but they are not the same size as the poker table itself.
 

TX_Golf_N_Poker

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My table seems to be defective when I first got it and I am afraid to take it apart because I don't know if I could get it back together because it's unaligned. Is it possible to buy a custom sized topper to place on top of the felt instead? I saw some on Amazon but they are not the same size as the poker table itself.
If the edges are going to be under the rail, you could buy something oversized and trim it where it needs to be.
 
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Complete refurb completed.

- Gold Speed Cloth (YAT)
- Refoamed with 1/4" Ensolite (Foam By Mail)
- Deeper Cup Holders (here)
- 3' piano hinge replacement (here). I feel it makes a big difference with stability.

157473885_353688895854185_2452520900221707505_n.jpg


Pretty happy with the fold alignment since I did it all solo.

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It was a coin flip between the gold and bronze, but happy with the way this color turned out. I like the slightly brighter color but not overpowering. Midnight blue would have also been in the running if it was in stock.

Foam - I had originally purchased the YAT foam sample kit. Didn't want to do Volara as it was too hard for my tastes, and the issues with permanent indentation made it a no go. Sew foam wasn't bad, a touch soft. HD foam was going to be my choice, but when I went to purchase both the 1/3" and 1/4" were out of stock. Based on some of the recommendations on here I decided to try the 1/4" Ensolite. Incredibly happy with the way it feels. It's on the firmer side, but not too firm. I can stack 40 48mm chips with zero wobble, and still get a fingertip under the cards for card peek.

Highly recommend the 1/4" Ensolite if you're going to redo the foam.
 

jonn1ecakes

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Complete refurb completed.

- Gold Speed Cloth (YAT)
- Refoamed with 1/4" Ensolite (Foam By Mail)
- Deeper Cup Holders (here)
- 3' piano hinge replacement (here). I feel it makes a big difference with stability.

157473885_353688895854185_2452520900221707505_n.jpg


Pretty happy with the fold alignment since I did it all solo.

157739601_1082311275569788_1344937882478282967_n.jpg


It was a coin flip between the gold and bronze, but happy with the way this color turned out. I like the slightly brighter color but not overpowering. Midnight blue would have also been in the running if it was in stock.

Foam - I had originally purchased the YAT foam sample kit. Didn't want to do Volara as it was too hard for my tastes, and the issues with permanent indentation made it a no go. Sew foam wasn't bad, a touch soft. HD foam was going to be my choice, but when I went to purchase both the 1/3" and 1/4" were out of stock. Based on some of the recommendations on here I decided to try the 1/4" Ensolite. Incredibly happy with the way it feels. It's on the firmer side, but not too firm. I can stack 40 48mm chips with zero wobble, and still get a fingertip under the cards for card peek.

Highly recommend the 1/4" Ensolite if you're going to redo the foam.
I did the same color change. Something about the bronze makes it look classy. Haha. Nice job
 

SirFatalx

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SirFatalx

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This is the best I came up with without taking apart the table due to it being unaligned when I received it. I placed foam padding underneath the speed cloth and essentially made a mat to go on top of the table so it can be removed as well. For the most part the cloth is flat but it's not perfect by any means. Probably will buy a new better table or build one from scratch in the future.
 

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