The Ocean Club - Poker Table DIY (2 Viewers)

Wow... this is absolutely stunning! Every element of the design flows perfectly into the next and really looks like a piece of furniture in the home. Maybe I missed it but what finish did you use on the base? So well thought out, really appreciate you sharing the journey!

Thanks for the feedback. I forgot to mention it. I treated the legs and the edge banding of the base plate with wood oil. I chose one that does not significantly darken the color of the wood because I like the light tone of ash.
 
14. Padding the playfield was easy enough. First place the foam sheet on the table, flip half of it over, glue, then do the other half.
View attachment 1231498After I cut the foam to size I stapled a ring of 2mm balsa wood to the side.
View attachment 1231499This serves two purposes. 1. when the cloth is installed, the wooden ring creates a very neat edge of the playfield which is impossible to achieve when there is just rubber foam which is compressed by the cloth. 2. The gap between parts B2 and B3 is 6mm. The acrylic diffuser which goes in there is 3mm strong. The rest of the space is occupied by the 2mm wooden ring and the cloth. That means I do not need to screw or glue the acrylic in place because it’s already a tight fit.

15. Cloth installation. The cloth came folded and sat in the closet for a few weeks before installation. My first attempt at ironing did not work. I had the feeling the wrinkles always reappeared 10 seconds after I moved along with the iron. I consulted Tony and then repeated the whole procedure with more heat (tried it on the edge first) and steam. Wrinkles were still visible but the tension during installation did the rest.
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16. Edge banding for sheet A. Unfortunately I did not take pics.

17. Time to put the pieces together. I still had to cut the acrylic strips. Did that with the table saw and a very fine blade. In some places there was still room between the acrylic and B2 so I just pushed some more balsa wood in the gaps. Now the diffuser sits absolutely tight.
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18. I installed some strong magnets to attach the battery.
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19. Carried it into the living room and enjoyed my work.
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And that’s it. I hope this is of use to anyone. And if it’s just to motivate you to do this yourself. I tried to be as detailed as possible but there is always room for improvement. I’m happy to answer any questions.

Cheers
Such a great comprehensive guide! really appreciate it!
 
Thanks for the feedback. I forgot to mention it. I treated the legs and the edge banding of the base plate with wood oil. I chose one that does not significantly darken the color of the wood because I like the light tone of ash.
Ya I agree on not darkening the natural ash! Especially because the shape is so natural, just the clear finish really compliments your work here. Its really quite the piece! Definitely an inspiration to start my first build!
 
8. Glueing on the rail foam. The spray adhesive I used worked well after I let it sit for 5 minutes after spraying. It became very tacky then and the foam stayed in place.View attachment 1231474View attachment 1231476
9. I did not have an electric turkey knife, so I though a bit on how I could get the cleanest cuts possible. I did have a hot wire cutter which I used for Styrofoam before. It worked well for HD foam too, but it was slow. So I guess nothing beats the electric knife.
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10. Upholstery. What a bitch. This was by faaaaaaaaaar the worst part of the build. I don’t want to go into full detail here (I don’t want to relive those memories), but I followed this guide here. In the end I probably pulled out more staples than ended up in the rail. And I still have wrinkels. The fabric I used did not have a lot of stretch, so I partly blame the fabric. Still I did better than in my first build. But this is the only part where I’m not 100% satisfied and I may redo this in the (distant) future.
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11. Now I installed the inner HDF board where the LED strip will sit on. I used my nail gun again.
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12. LED strip installed (the adhesive on the back side was sufficient. The strip is routed into the rail via a 10mm hole. And my math worked out. I made use of 497cm out of 500cm total length.
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13. I wanted the power cord to come out of the sheet A in the middle of the table. I drilled a hole in A where I wanted it to appear and another hole (not actually a hole because I only went down half the strength of sheet A) where the cable is fed from the rail and then used the router to create a channel for the cable. The cable will then run from the rail nose through the base board A (below the playfield) to the middle of the table.
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This concludes part 2 of the build.

What is the name of the light strip you used? I used a standard tape light on my table and I can see the individual LEDs through the diffuser.
 
What is the name of the light strip you used? I used a standard tape light on my table and I can see the individual LEDs through the diffuser.
Search for COB led strips. With this kind the leds are packed so tight on the strip that you cannot see them even with a diffuser right over the strip (the distance between strip and diffuser is only 1cm (less than half an inch) in my case and it’s an even glow throughout.
 
Search for COB led strips. With this kind the leds are packed so tight on the strip that you cannot see them even with a diffuser right over the strip (the distance between strip and diffuser is only 1cm (less than half an inch) in my case and it’s an even glow throughout.

Thanks!
 

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