Standard Colors for Less Common Denominations (1 Viewer)

Mysticum

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There seems to be a standard, or at least a de facto standard, of colors and value of poker chips.

Top of my head, these seem to be pretty standard:
1White
5Red
25Green
100Black
500Purple
1000Yellow

In addition to these, 10 seems to be Blue sometimes, and 2500 often have a Brown color.

But what would be fitting colors for 20 and 200 specifically?

I want your best opinion and motivation. Either a color that differs enough from the rest, or one that you have actually seen being used. Huge bonus points for pictures and examples.

(For my special case, both Blue and Purple would be unavailable.)
 
I have white for $.25, blue for $1 and red for $5.

When I get games started up again I'm thinking of putting together a limit set. The plan is to add $2s and $20s to the set. I'm leaning yellow/gold and mint green but haven't decided which one would be which yet.
 
$20's are typically yellow (Nevada) or black (Cali).

Cali plays a bit looser with colors in general. I've got these white Gold Feather $20's.

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Building off an earlier @BGinGA post:

Typical California:
25¢ red
50¢ green/gray
$1 blue
$2 green
$5 yellow
$10 brown
$20 black
$25 purple
$100 white

Typical others:
$1 white
$5 red
$10 blue
$20 yellow
$25 green
$100 black

Not sure about $200s
 
We have yellow twos in our Minnesota cardrooms. But I think PCFers designing customs seem to pick yellow 20s.

I think tan/brown or pink quarters are a fairly common choice, and orange for 50c as well.

I did "mint" dimes, orange halves, and yellow twenties for my customs.
 
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How are you planning to do this? That would also influence the answer.
 
Blue 10s and Yellow 20s. I havent heard of 200 before. I have seen odd small denoms like $3, $7, $8 for various reasons.

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Building off an earlier @BGinGA post:

Typical California:
25¢ red
50¢ green/gray
$1 blue
$2 green
$5 yellow
$10 brown
$20 black
$25 purple
$100 white

Typical others:
$1 white
$5 red
$10 blue
$20 yellow
$25 green
$100 black
Add under "others":
$500 purple
$1000 orange (yellow in some jurisdictions)
$5000 grey or pink

Snappers ($2.50 chips) are usually pink or blue, pending jurisdiction. And some jurisdictions swap the $500/$1000 colors to orange/purple.
 
How are you planning to do this? That would also influence the answer.

Yeah, maybe I should have added more context, but I didn't want to influence the answer too much.

I'm planning on doing a Zelda theme for my poker chip set, and I'm having many designs in the work (and vacation today just to continue my work on the sketches). Hopefully a seperate post will come soon with feedback on the designs.

The "problem" is that I want to use standard colors for my chips, but Zelda has it own standard colors. Since I also want to combine my set for both cash games and tournaments (have mercy on me!), this made me want the 20 instead of 25 (since 20 is a standard value in Zelda, but also makes it very easy for 5/10 blind structures where every denomination follows the ratio of 25/50 just divided by 5, which is not possible with the 25).

So I was set on having everything in Zelda colors instead, since it would be weird is "five rupees" wasn't blue, as it's so strongly associated with in the game.

This leaves the following colors:

1 - Green
5 - Blue
20 - Red
(50 - Purple)
100 - Black (really Silver)
200 - Yellow (really Gold)

That is option #1.

--

However, during my sketches I found another design where I have rupees as a decoration on the edges that seems to work really good. Then I can combine the standard colors AND Zelda colors in one design! Perfect!

Well, almost, because now I still have the 20, and I still need the 200 (to follow the same 25/50 ratio where you have 500 and 1000, this would be the same, but divided by 5 for 100 and 200).

This leaves me with

1 - White (green rupees)
5 - Red (blue rupees)
20 - ??? (red rupees)
100 - Black (silver rupees)
200 - ??? (gold rupees)
500 - Purple (??? rupees)

So what should my colors be for the 20 and 200?

What reallly works well on my sketches so far is to have the 20 be green. I really like having the green color and it goes nice with the red rupee color as well. How much of a crime would it be to have a 20 as green? Would I not be welcome on the forum anymore? :nailbite:
 
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Why do you want a 200 chip? As a denom it's pretty useless.

If using the same set for tourneys, go with a 25 chip. It works fine for cash games too, you just need a bit more fives than with 20 chips.
 
1 - White (green rupees)
5 - Red (blue rupees)
20 - ??? (red rupees)
100 - Black (silver rupees)
200 - ??? (gold rupees)
500 - Purple (??? rupees

So what should my colors be for the 20 and 200?

How much of a crime would it be to have a 20 as green?
No more of a crime than a 200 chip (of any color) just on general principles.

Do whatever floats yer boat. Just don't expect much resale value, if that's any consideration.

Personally, I'd go with yellow/(red) for 20 and brown/(gold) for 200, with pink rupees on the purple 500. Minimal duplication of colors across the entire set (only red is repeated).
 
I understand that the 200 makes little sense at first, and I'm not sure how the explains it, but I'll make one more try :)

First of all, the 200 actually have a color in Zelda games so that's good.

Second of all, it allows me to take any 25/50 blind structure and follow it, but just have it divided by 5 instead.

I tried with 1/2 blinds, but it's very awkward and I can't follow a 25/50 structure since the ratio is different.

It take 4x 25 to make 100, and 5x 100 to make 500 and 2x 500 to make 1000.

If I divide everything by 5, it will take 4x 5 to make 20, and 5x 20 to make 100, and 2x 100 to make 200.

So the 200 in this case shouldn't be any more useless than a 1000 chip for 25/50 tournaments. In the end, skipping the 200 would just force me to have even more 100 and 500's otherwise, and I'm planning on go with plaques for 500 and 1000.

--

So with that in mind, and that Zelda has a 20, it's more or less set in stone that I will have 20 instead of 25, even though it's not optimal, I think it's the best use case for me. I will also use my chips for board games and 20 is slightly better there as well.

--

Since this is customized for me, I expect 0 resale value more or less.
 
Well, if you want to use your chips for boardgames, then it can make a world of difference and I wouldn't know anything about what is needed. But for poker you are looking to have two inefficient denom jumps (100 to 200 and 500 to 1000) instead of just one, and in general you should be able to put together a stack of single denom chips that matches the next denom (not so for 200 to 500). I have a tourney set starting with 5/10 blinds that has zero inefficient denom jumps and uses a 25 chip (blind structure a standard 25/50 style with a few additional lower levels, you don't need to completely retool the structure).

full


But your money, your chips. In the end get the ones you want/need. :)
 
Well, if you want to use your chips for boardgames, then it can make a world of difference and I wouldn't know anything about what is needed. But for poker you are looking to have two inefficient denom jumps (100 to 200 and 500 to 1000) instead of just one, and in general you should be able to put together a stack of single denom chips that matches the next denom (not so for 200 to 500). I have a tourney set starting with 5/10 blinds that has zero inefficient denom jumps and uses a 25 chip (blind structure a standard 25/50 style with a few additional lower levels, you don't need to completely retool the structure).

But your money, your chips. In the end get the ones you want/need. :)

Yes, that is sound advice, and I can't disagree with you :)

The 200 is doubtful, but really no stranger than having the 1000 chip for a 25/50 tournament, which is a "weird" chip to have anyway. I agree with that. I think it's the fact that the Zelda have a gold color for the 200, and that 200 would be convenient to have more "value" available without having megatons of 100.

But yeah, skipping 200 and going directly to 500 makes more sense. But the thing here is that I wanted the plaque for 500, and that puts me in a situation where I either have to have tons of plaques, which would be too much, and inconvenient. Or a take a 500 chip and go for plaques for higher denominations, but then the plaques would be rarely used in tournaments anyway, and thus, the whole point of having them goes away.

So having the 200 just makes things a bit convenient. But it's not set in stone, and I might regret this later.

Thanks for your input :)

I appreciate more feedback if people have opinions. I hope I don't sound too "defensive", I just try to motivate my reasons. To be honest, I would question these weird things myself two weeks back :p
 
I don't know what kind of structure you plan for a 25-base tournament, but you will want plenty of 1000. Like hundreds + of them depending on how many players you have in that tournament. One of the most favoured starting stacks for say T10000 is 12 x 25, 12 x 100, 5x500, 6x1000. And you will use the higer denoms for color ups and rebuys, so you need more than what's just in the starting stack of those. Probobly need a handfull of 5000 too.

I love the 20 in a cash set. Mainly because it represents an actuall bill.

As for a 200 i think it can be alright in cash games as you would also be playing in SEK as currency. I have given it some thought myself, but that would be instead of a 100. There's just no point to have them both in the same set. I'm not so sure in a tournament setting if you would ever want a 200. No need to reinvent the wheel, the common values work great.
 
Having both a 500 and a 1000 chip may seem strange but I think (in a T10k/20k tournament) that it makes sense since the 500 takes the load off the first work horse chip (the T100) in that you can make bets of 600/700/800/900 with far less chips.

The 1k chip is also needed since it will become the second work horse chips once the T100 have been colored up. The 500 would be a worse work horse chips since it’s harder to quickly figure out roughly how much a tall stack of 500s are as oppose to a tall stack of 1ks. And it would be harder to read e.g. a bet of 4k using 500s than the same bet using 1ks.

Dunno if this makes sense or if a lot of it has to do with those being very standard denominations.

Re: 20 or 25 in cash. To me it doesn’t really matter. I have sets with either. Yes we have a 20 bill in Sweden too yet no 25 bill. However nobody under the age of 60 really carries cash anymore so wheather it corresponds to a bill or not is a none issue imo.

edit: same goes for 100 vs 200. Both would work but if using the latter I would feel the need to change denoms below accordingly: 2/10/50/200 which would tilt me:)

edit 2: I know nothing of what works/is needed for when using chips for boardgames.
 
I don't know what kind of structure you plan for a 25-base tournament, but you will want plenty of 1000. Like hundreds + of them depending on how many players you have in that tournament. One of the most favoured starting stacks for say T10000 is 12 x 25, 12 x 100, 5x500, 6x1000. And you will use the higer denoms for color ups and rebuys, so you need more than what's just in the starting stack of those. Probobly need a handfull of 5000 too.

I love the 20 in a cash set. Mainly because it represents an actuall bill.

As for a 200 i think it can be alright in cash games as you would also be playing in SEK as currency. I have given it some thought myself, but that would be instead of a 100. There's just no point to have them both in the same set. I'm not so sure in a tournament setting if you would ever want a 200. No need to reinvent the wheel, the common values work great.

Not sure you understand me. I will use 5/10 for tournaments. So the exact same as 25/50 but divided by 5. That means, when you're saying I want plenty of 1000, that means I need plenty of 200.

The reason I want to use 5/10 is that it's just easier to combine cash + tour into one set that way without needing plenty of chips. Plus I will have 20 instead of 25.

Having both a 500 and a 1000 chip may seem strange but I think (in a T10k/20k tournament) that it makes sense since the 500 takes the load off the first work horse chip (the T100) in that you can make bets of 600/700/800/900 with far less chips.

The 1k chip is also needed since it will become the second work horse chips once the T100 have been colored up. The 500 would be a worse work horse chips since it’s harder to quickly figure out roughly how much a tall stack of 500s are as oppose to a tall stack of 1ks. And it would be harder to read e.g. a bet of 4k using 500s than the same bet using 1ks.

Dunno if this makes sense or if a lot of it has to do with those being very standard denominations.

Re: 20 or 25 in cash. To me it doesn’t really matter. I have sets with either. Yes we have a 20 bill in Sweden too yet no 25 bill. However nobody under the age of 60 really carries cash anymore so wheather it corresponds to a bill or not is a none issue imo.

Good points. To that degree, the 200 both works and not. It works in the way to take the load off all the 100's, but not in the way that it's easy to bet in nice amounts.

edit: same goes for 100 vs 200. Both would work but if using the latter I would feel the need to change denoms below accordingly: 2/10/50/200 which would tilt me:)

Haha, yeah, that's out of the question. The 1, 5 and 100 will be in, no matter what. And the 500 in either chip or plaque.
 
@Eriks, lol, yes, but be that as it may, i still prefer the 20 over 25.:ROFL: :ROFLMAO:
 
@Eriks, lol, yes, but be that as it may, i still prefer the 20 over 25.:ROFL: :ROFLMAO:
Yeah I’m leaning towards liking the 20 better for cash too :). Although I like that a barrel of 25s equals 500. Makes it easy to read and count.
 
If you use the same chips for cash and tournament you run the risk of somone slipping a 20 or 25 into their pocket during a tournament and then sliding it into the cash game throwing your bank off.
 
I think you're completely missing the point on the applicability of a T200 chip for tournament poker.

If you are running a 5/10 blind tournament (typically called a T5-base event), the optimum denominations, breakdown, and blind structure have nothing in common with a T25-base tournament, which has an entirely different set of requirements and thus parameters. There are several good reasons for the T500-to-T1000 2x denomination jump in a T25-base or T100-base set, and those reasons do not exist for a T5-base set/event.

You can't just take a T25-base set or structure and "divide by 5" and expect it to play the same way..... because it won't.
I understand that the 200 makes little sense at first

it allows me to take any 25/50 blind structure and follow it, but just have it divided by 5 instead.

It take 4x 25 to make 100, and 5x 100 to make 500 and 2x 500 to make 1000.

If I divide everything by 5, it will take 4x 5 to make 20, and 5x 20 to make 100, and 2x 100 to make 200.

So the 200 in this case shouldn't be any more useless than a 1000 chip for 25/50 tournaments.
This is flawed thinking, for a couple of reasons.

In a T25-base set, the T1000 chip is a primary workhorse chip for the latter half of the tournament, replacing the T100 which is the initial workhorse chip. Both chips are numerically 1-based, and are thus the easiest and quickest for humans familiar with the base 10 decimal system to count without errors (one hundred, two hundred, one thousand, two thousand, etc.). The T1000 chip also transitions a T25-base set to continue upwards (using efficient 4x and 5x jumps) using denominations that are also the easiest to count and use (5000, 25000, 100000).

Simply dividing by 5 creates a T200 chip that fails at all of those things. In a T5-base set, the workhorse duties are equally shared by the T5 and T25 (and to a lesser degree, the T100) and generally, no chips larger than T500 will ever be needed (nor very many). A T200 chip is awkward and not intuitive (try counting: one two-hundred, two two-hundreds, three two-hundreds, etc.), is inefficient as a 2x jump from T100, and does not serve as a transition chip to larger denomination chips (which aren't needed).

The 200 is .... really no stranger than having the 1000 chip for a 25/50 tournament, which is a "weird" chip to have anyway.
Untrue, for the reasons stated above. It's actually the T500 chip in a T25-base set that has lesser value, and as such, fewer are needed when dealing with a set that contains a 2x transition from T500-T1000.

But this is not true for a 2x T100-T200 transition in a T5-base setting, since the T100 is a partial workhorse chip and the T200 is not. It may look similar on paper, but it is very different in reality.
I will use 5/10 for tournaments. So the exact same as 25/50 but divided by 5. That means, when you're saying I want plenty of 1000, that means I need plenty of 200.

The reason I want to use 5/10 is that it's just easier to combine cash + tour into one set that way without needing plenty of chips. Plus I will have 20 instead of 25.
As shown above, it's NOT the same, and you won't need 'plenty' of T200s, since it's not a workhorse chip in a T5-base set/structure.

Good T5-base and T25-base tournament structures are created to best utilize the chip denominations available in each set. One is simply not 5x (or /5) of the other.

And I don't advise using a T20 chip in a T5-base tourney set, either -- T25s are a much better choice for workhorse chips, for similar ease-of-counting and efficiency reasons. Regardless, using a T5-base structure with a chip set that contains T20 chips (vs T25s) will require modification.

Regarding cash sets, generally speaking a $20 chip works better for low stakes (using 25c, $1, $5 chips), and a $25 chip works better for higher stakes (using $1, $5, $25, and $100 chips).

But using the same set for both cash and tournament play is simply asking for trouble. Too easy to compromise the set, and more difficult to ensure the integrity of the game. A single error can end up costing more than the price of additional chips needed to create separate sets.
 
Thank you for a golden explanation! I very much appreciate your time and effort to write that!

You have convinced me to drop the 200 (although I'm not sure why anyone would count "one two-hundred", "two two-hundred" instead of "two, four, six, eight", even thought I agree the 100 makes it easier). Back to my spreadsheet math again then :)

So for a T5-base tournament, would you simply recommend 5/2X/100/500/(1000) then?

I would very much like the 25, but since I'm doing the Zelda theme, it's just way more fitting to have the 20, which is unfortunate.

I'd like separate sets for cash and tournaments for sure, but I have to start somewhere, and thus, I'm trying to do what I can with the resources I have. So this will be a set mainly for board games and cash (1/1 or 1/2 blinds). But I would still like to be able to do tournaments if the situation arises (which realistically will be 1-2 times per year at maximum).

Given those circumstances, can I just broaden my chips with additional 100/500 and have an okay set for T5 tournaments, or what would your advice be?
 
If you are really going to be doing tournaments a couple of times per year and play a 1/2 cash regularly just play a T1 base tournament.

Starting 1/2 blinds with a 400 starting stack 200 times the starting big blind

10x1
8x5
6x25
2x100

Don’t even need a 500 could just color up with 25s and 100s if you want.

Then save your money and buy a separate tournament set
 
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Yeah, you're probably right. I just feel that the blind structure in T1 tournaments are very clunky, whereas I could just use a good 25/50 blind structure and divide by 5 for the T5 base. Unfortunately that doesn't work as well for converting to T1 and at some point blinds needs to be like 7/14 or 8/15 or something which feels clunky.
 

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