Round table with adjustable, swing-out cup holders (1 Viewer)

Thorn

High Hand
Joined
Nov 10, 2021
Messages
57
Reaction score
146
Location
South Bend Indiana
First off, thanks to all that have posted their table builds and links. I'm not going to post my full build since there are so many other threads that explain the process better than I can. I do want to share an approach I came up with for adjustable, swing-out cup holders though. I was inspired by @Jake14mw post but I didn't have magnets or metal on hand and wanted to see if I could come up with something with what I had laying around the garage. I wouldn't be surprised if someone has done this already, but I couldn't find any examples.

I have an old octagon that I wanted to replace with a round since I never have exactly 8 players. I also didn't want fixed position cup holders and I'm not a fan of the slide under holders.

I followed the basic process of using a router and circle jig to cut two circles. One for the top rail and another for the sub-rail and playing surface. The wrinkle I added is that after making the cut to separate the sub-rail from the playing surface base, I switched to a 3/4" bit and cut a 1/4" deep groove in the underside of the top rail piece (keeping the circle jig set at the same radius). This effectively creates a T-slot when you assemble the rail and attach to the playing surface.
Rail Assembly.png


The cup holder pieces are then attached to the table using a 1/4" carriage bolt inserted into the T-slot and secured with a wing nut allowing them to be positioned anywhere and also to swing in or out.

Underside of rail assembly showing groove for carriage bolt head.
20220807_144104.jpg

Underside of table showing access hole to insert bolts.
20220807_163413.jpg
20220807_163558.jpg
20220807_163605.jpg
20220823_210102.jpg
 
Last edited:
Very cool! I love it. Simple, well thought out design. Allows each person to put cupholders where they want, or hide them away. Meets all my requirements, well done!
 
Nice.

I'm looking to do something similar as I don't like cup holders built into the table or standalone trolleys. I thinking of going a little bigger so as well as a cup holder I'll have a bit of space for phones/keys/snacks etc.
 
As I said, I'm extremely happy with how these function. @upNdown you're right the original cup holders were way too shallow. Here are some more pics showing the deeper cup holders in various positions and a shot of the underside of the table. The last two games I've hosted we had 6 and then 7 players and everyone was able to spread out and take advantage of the extra space and the extra holders just swung out of the way.
20230202_231052.jpg
20230202_230207.jpg
20230202_230359.jpg
 
As I said, I'm extremely happy with how these function. @upNdown you're right the original cup holders were way too shallow. Here are some more pics showing the deeper cup holders in various positions and a shot of the underside of the table. The last two games I've hosted we had 6 and then 7 players and everyone was able to spread out and take advantage of the extra space and the extra holders just swung out of the way.View attachment 1072214View attachment 1072215View attachment 1072216
Deep cupholders are magical. I should knock wood and I probably shouldn’t speak this at all, but I have spilled drinks in every room of the house except for the poker room. And it’s not for lack of trying. But with deep cupholders you can bang a drink in just about any kind of container and it’s like your guardian angel catches it.
 
Added diagram to original post to help illustrate the cuts and assembly a little better. Hoping to start work on another table soon. Have been very happy with this approach so far.
 
After using these a while do you find that players bang their knees or legs into them when sitting down or getting up?

It seems I bang my knee on anything hanging under the table.
 
After using these a while do you find that players bang their knees or legs into them when sitting down or getting up?

It seems I bang my knee on anything hanging under the table.
Haven't noticed it and none of my group has complained. And this group has no problem complaining.

To be fair I haven't had more than 6 players at this table yet so there's been plenty of space to move the unused holders out of the way.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Ken
Haven't noticed it and none of my group has complained. And this group has no problem complaining.

To be fair I haven't had more than 6 players at this table yet so there's been plenty of space to move the unused holders out of the way.
Thanks for the feedback.

I no longer have room for drink tables which was my preference so am deciding to either retro fit cup holders into an existing rail or put under-mount cup holders like these on the table.
 
Thanks for the feedback.

I no longer have room for drink tables which was my preference so am deciding to either retro fit cup holders into an existing rail or put under-mount cup holders like these on the table.
Drink tables were my first choice too but not enough space. For me the in rail holders always seem to be in the way.

You could always just try the under mounts in fixed position without going through the effort of creating the groove. Would give you a sense of whether you'll be banging your knees. And less hassle than retrofitting the rail.

My 2 cents anyway.
 
You could always just try the under mounts in fixed position without going through the effort of creating the groove. Would give you a sense of whether you'll be banging your knees. And less hassle than retrofitting the rail.

Yeah I'd try that first - I wouldn't want them in the rail.

I've got my (jumbo) cupholders attached to the underside of my (collapsible) table at fixed positions using simple (m10) bolts and t-nuts. I wanted my 8 (max!) seats clearly delineated, hate feeling crowded, so a combination of rail sections and fixed cup holders do that perfectly.

e7f9WCY.png


IEhxZDD.png


People don't bash into them at all really, a few knocks every now and then. They don't get in the way as they only stick out a bit and have plenty of clearance underneath them, ~3" between thighs/knees and underside of cup - although I don't have chunky legs. (Seat height 17", rail height 30" & cup underside/bottom 25" with a cup depth of ~2.5")

They work perfectly for me and we haven't had a spill of any kind yet despite those occasional knock. Safer than side tables imo and better looking than them or in-rail versions.
 
Yeah I'd try that first - I wouldn't want them in the rail.

I've got my (jumbo) cupholders attached to the underside of my (collapsible) table at fixed positions using simple (m10) bolts and t-nuts. I wanted my 8 (max!) seats clearly delineated, hate feeling crowded, so a combination of rail sections and fixed cup holders do that perfectly.

People don't bash into them at all really, a few knocks every now and then. They don't get in the way as they only stick out a bit and have plenty of clearance underneath them, ~3" between thighs/knees and underside of cup - although I don't have chunky legs. (Seat height 17", rail height 30" & cup underside/bottom 25" with a cup depth of ~2.5")

They work perfectly for me and we haven't had a spill of any kind yet despite those occasional knock. Safer than side tables imo and better looking than them or in-rail versions.
I suppose you could just put in a lot of threaded t-nuts or inserts, maybe every few inches, to have a lot of choices where to put the holder on the fly depending on how many players show up or whatever.

Thanks for the data. I'm going to have to build a test cup holder and try it out.
 
I suppose you could just put in a lot of threaded t-nuts or inserts, maybe every few inches, to have a lot of choices where to put the holder on the fly depending on how many players show up or whatever.

Thanks for the data. I'm going to have to build a test cup holder and try it out.

(You're probably aware of this already but) It's worth mentioning that the t-nuts are in the top of the layer the cup-holder attaches to - it is pulled into the wood as the bolt is tightened. I mention this as if you're looking to do this to an already built table then it's trickier than allowing for them in a fresh build.

AF48Mt4.png


You could do it with the t-nut the other way but it isn't anywhere near as strong as it would just be behaving the same way as a threaded insert but without the threads, just relying on the spikes to keep it in. It would just come out, possibly damaging the table, if enough force was applied.

I think that makes sense :)
 
  • Like
Reactions: Ken
(You're probably aware of this already but) It's worth mentioning that the t-nuts are in the top of the layer the cup-holder attaches to - it is pulled into the wood as the bolt is tightened. I mention this as if you're looking to do this to an already built table then it's trickier than allowing for them in a fresh build.

You could do it with the t-nut the other way but it isn't anywhere near as strong as it would just be behaving the same way as a threaded insert but without the threads, just relying on the spikes to keep it in. It would just come out, possibly damaging the table, if enough force was applied.

I think that makes sense :)
Excellent point.

In my case I have a fantastic table built for me by @T_Chan way back in 2012. The rail comes completely off (with about 20 hex bolts) as well as the playing surface for easy maintenance. So I can get to the inside and do whatever is needed. I replaced the LED strip years ago when it was acting up. Here is a photo I took at that time. The rail is on the left facing down. The bottom part is on the right facing up. The playing surface is removed in this photo.

pkrtableapart.jpg
 

Create an account or login to comment

You must be a member in order to leave a comment

Create account

Create an account and join our community. It's easy!

Log in

Already have an account? Log in here.

Back
Top Bottom