Round Build prep. Foam application - Securing Base? (3 Viewers)

[TheWhat]

Think there are a decent amount of threads covering how to build, and will hopefully peel the info out of them.

But one thing I did not come across clearly. What are people doing for a base / legs? Do we salvage something from FB Marketplace? Order new online?

We are shooting for a 58-60" to accommodate up to 8 players. How do we determine what "specs" a base would need?

Thanks in advance for any tips / knowledge you can pass on.

 

[dizzyChipper]

Think there are a decent amount of threads covering how to build, and will hopefully peel the info out of them.

But one thing I did not come across clearly. What are people doing for a base / legs? Do we salvage something from FB Marketplace? Order new online?

We are shooting for a 58-60" to accommodate up to 8 players. How do we determine what "specs" a base would need?

Thanks in advance for any tips / knowledge you can pass on.

View attachment 1580367

View attachment 1580368

Cards has to be pedestal. Not tulip as there won’t reliably 4 or 5 or 6 people so everyone has to flow around.

Otherwise I know nothing but can’t wait to see results.

 

[TheWhat]

Cards has to be pedestal. Not tulip as there won’t reliably 4 or 5 or 6 people so everyone has to flow around.

Otherwise I know nothing but can’t wait to see results.

Pedestal, meaning like the bottom picture?

 

[JeepologyOffroad]

I used these for my recent 60 build

https://www.pokerchipforum.com/threads/table-showcase-pics.17451/page-34#post-2735090

 

[TheWhat]

What is the technical ir reasoning of using a Router over a Jig Saw? What does the rounded edge achieve?

 

[JeepologyOffroad]

Router results in a perfect cut. If you are really good with a jig saw then it probably won’t matter and would likely be slower tbh. But for me a router made perfect circles nice and easy

 

[LotsOfChips]

Router with a circle jig for the smoothest cut! You'll never get a jigsaw to cut it as cleanly (or at least I never could).

You can make your own circle jig from a piece of scrap wood and a nail, or buy one pre-made.

Check YouTube for the former, Amazon for the latter. Milescraft makes a very nice one.

 

[TheWhat]

My friends concern with the Router, is that we will end up with a large gap between pieces (rail - playing surface - base), when they are going back in place? Ie a Jigsaw blade is thin, but router bit is going to be much larger.

 

[LotsOfChips]

we will end up with a large gap between pieces

Not really. A 1/4" gap is just about right (IMO). If you are really worried, you could use a 1/8" bit (requires a change of collets), but it is easier to break the smaller bits if you move too fast.

With a router and circle jig, you should also be able to fit the pieces together even if you rotate one of the parts 180 degrees. With a jigsaw, that is less likely, especially with a thin kerf.

 

[TheWhat]

So, secured all of our rail padding, vinyl, cup holders etc. Just need a pneumatic stapler, and some adhesive spray.

Might drop down to as low as 56" based on the view of Chanman's Chunky builds, that looks like enough space, to cover the overwhelming majority of our games.

If we are salvaging a base off a dining table, is there a minimum base size we should look for? They all seem fairly standard.

And, has anyone attempted something like this:

 

[TheWhat]

Base secured.

Now Foam problem / question for playing surface.

1/4" 60" x 60" proving very difficult. Upholster specialist locally suggested maybe to use Headliner. Ie Interior roof of vehicle. Not against the idea, any foreseeable troubles laying a custom felt over it?

Secondary, 1/2" seems alot easier to source. Any strong takes on using 1/2" over 1/4" for the paying surface?

 

[TheWhat]

Trouble an expert for thoughts on 1/2 vs 1/4 @bsdunbar1 @Irish

 

[Thomacetti]

I second @Irish

 

[justsomedude]

YAT (YourAutoTrim) has 1/4" x 60" wide currently in stock.

https://www.yourautotrim.com/1thfopamede.html

I think 1/2" would be way too thick, and could make chip stacks unstable and wobbly.

You could also use 3/10" foam (I used this on my last build), but it's only 54" wide... you'd have to use two strips to cover 60".

 

[Irish]

Some general thoughts on foam, if you're bored: https://www.pokerchipforum.com/threads/poker-table-question.30485/post-561441

I don't build very often anymore, but my last dozen tables or so I used 1/4" or 3/10" the high density foam from YAT, typically it's pretty widely available and plays great. The softer neoprene/close cell options just don't seem to be as available nowadays.

RE: on 1/4" vs 1/2" - 1/4" imho would be better, but it somewhat depends on the type of foam. If it's cheap headliner foam, 1/4" is better because at 1/2" you'll run into the issue @justsomedude mentions above. Headliner compresses very easily, so you'll potentially get stack instability.

Something else to consider that may help to expand your options - if your table is 60" wide overall and you have a 6" wide rail, you really only need a ~48" wide piece of foam, as the rail covers a portion of that 60" wide table.

 

[Jp74]

Upholster specialist locally suggested maybe to use Headliner. Ie Interior roof of vehicle

Exactly what I used 20 years ago.

 

[TheWhat]

Bit the bullet on the headliner foam, it's 1/4" thick. Seemed to be very close to the consistency of the foam I originally sourced, but my cats ruined. Unfortunately shipping to Canada wasn't really an option.

Guess the decision now is adhere the "finished" side face down? Or face up?

@Jp74 how did / is it hold up?

 

[foreverdev]

I used this foam and it’s excellent
https://www.straightpokersupplies.com/1-4-inch-high-density-foam-98-x-60-piece.html

 

[Jp74]

@Jp74 how did / is it hold up?

that table has been through hell. Was cut down from an 8 ft oval to like a five ft work table around 15 years ago when I needed a table for my saw. Has lived in a hot and humid garage ever since but the foam and the 3m adhesive i applied it with never failed and is still going strong! The Joanne’s fabric I used to cover it on the other hand was not the best choice for either application.

 

[TheWhat]

Oooph got the belt sander out, and found a few screws this weekend (Play surface and rail not yet attached). Acquired some Super 77, and hole saws for cups.

 

[TheWhat]

Are these cup raisers, glued on? Nailed on? Both?

 

[Irish]

Are these cup raisers, glued on? Nailed on? Both?

View attachment 1681385

I glue mine to the wood rail piece, but it's really just to keep them in place until the rail is upholstered.

 

[TheWhat]

Don't have a pic of the chaos handy, but after the agony of lining up a couple hours to do some work, we hit a major road block.

Burned through full 2 batteries, and ruined 2 cheap hole saws, trying to cut through this 3/4 Baltic Birch. Luckily, all of this occurred on scrap.

So I "upgraded" the hole saw (Pic attached) to a Milwaukee brand, per another carpenter friend this job should be within its range. And buddy is going to bring a corded drill. But should we be doing something else? Like a jigsaw and router?

 

[TheWhat]

Cup holders done! Who knew all we needed was Milwaukee Dozer hole saw, and likely more importantly, a corded drill. Super happy with this so far.

 

[TheWhat]

Do have a question about the base. I want the table top to be removable for storage. Any tips on quick, or easy methods? Thinking some type of pin, or lock mechanism for the playing surface / rail to be taken on / off game days?

And now to find the foam install instructions!

 

[Irish]

Furniture bolts and threaded inserts.

 

[TheWhat]

Furniture bolts and threaded inserts.

Any concern with screwing and unscrewing a couple times a month?

 

[JeepologyOffroad]

Looking good so far!

 

[TheWhat]

Any reason something like the below, horrible illustration, wouldn't work?

Basically install on the bottom of the topper some "rails" that would then slot into, and through the base top. Could lock with a pin if needing any additional support.

 

[Irish]

Any concern with screwing and unscrewing a couple times a month?

Nope, as long as you're not totally torquing them down you should be fine.

Any reason something like the below, horrible illustration, wouldn't work?

Basically install on the bottom of the topper some "rails" that would then slot into, and through the base top. Could lock with a pin if needing any additional support.

View attachment 1686410

Adding some guides to help with the fit up is a good idea, but you definitely want to secure it down with fasteners, either furniture connector bolts or hex head bolts with a washer.

Pedestal:

Pedestal with connector plate attached to top:

Underside of table (I drilled holes where the bolt extensions from the pedestal sit, helps with the alignment when putting it on):

And you can see the threaded inserts to accept the bolts that will fasten the connector plate to the underside of the table:

Fully assembled:

Similar approach but with hex bolts & washers:

One more: