Restoring 'drilled' clay Chips (1 Viewer)

chkmte

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Q: Will typical Paulson casino-used cheques withstand 230 F for 30 minutes? I'm looking to restore some drill holes with a product called Fimo.
 
I would imagine if theres signs of squishing at temps under 200, anything over may be hazardous...but perhaps if they are not under pressure.... @BGinGA ?
 
I would imagine if theres signs of squishing at temps under 200, anything over may be hazardous...but perhaps if they are not under pressure.... @BGinGA ?
Yeah, I've never worked with this product. Perhaps 200 F at 15 minutes would get the job done. Not sure.
 
Suggestions for referenced product?
That's a tougher ask. Ideally, it should cure at RT to something waterproof and softer than Paulson "clay".

I haven't used those lightweight, quick dry joint compounds in years, but if they cure to water resistant (i.e. formula for kitchen/bath) that may do. If you can be sure not to leave anything that needs sanding, a harder compound may suffice - like Bondo.
 
Look for a product called "water putty". Its a 2 part epoxy "clay" that hardens and sets at room temp. As for hardness, I've never done a direct comparison to chips. The good news is that it can be mixed and colored to anything you want. I use it on fossil bone repairs and it should be a workable solution for you.
 
CDAD035F-8CBD-4BAA-B916-3139E0C62429.jpeg

Will try this and post results soon.
 
If flattening warped chips works well at 125F for 30 minutes, then I'm guessing you'll have some deformation at 230F for the same amount of time. But, like they said, only one way to find out.
 
The one concern I have about this water putty is how it will react to an Ultrasonic bath a year from now.

At this point, I’ve patched 4 chips. We’ll give it 48 hours to dry and see how we did.

Thanks for the input gang.
 
The one concern I have about this water putty is how it will react to an Ultrasonic bath a year from now.

At this point, I’ve patched 4 chips. We’ll give it 48 hours to dry and see how we did.

Thanks for the input gang.
Durham's: everybody warns about water absorption. It will expand when wetted if not sealed. You might want to hand clean these.
 
Durham's: everybody warns about water absorption. It will expand when wetted if not sealed. You might want to hand clean these.
I may give the fill a light glaze to seal. But, I’m already hand cleaning all 3000 chips as we speak.
 
are these drilled on the inlays ? (so filler + label) or are these drilled in the rim ?
 
In the center. I’ve already removed inlay completely.

View attachment 600573
Def plumbers epoxy putty for center-drilled chips - it's a solid and clay-like, dries without shrinkage, and is both waterproof and sandable after drying.

Scotch tape one side, fill hole and scrape flat, let set/dry overnight, remove tape and lightly sand if needed (and usually isn't, if scraped smooth during application).
 
I use the Oatey Fix-it putty for lots of different things. Workability for about 5 minutes once mixed, and is sand-able, waterproof and rock hard.
This and duct tape is all you’ll ever need. :ROFL: :ROFLMAO:
1D3B1283-BD0D-47B8-B763-C604587C05AB.jpeg
 
So why not just label over the hole and be done with it?
That’s an option and would satisfy most folks. I just think filling in the hole is the BEST option. If done properly, there’s little chance for issues down the road.
 

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