Poker Chip Tubes (3D printed)

Nex

Flush
Supporting Member
Joined
Jan 25, 2017
Messages
1,565
Reaction score
1,865
Location
Munich, Germany
I've fallen behind on demo prints. Had an annoying issue with my printer that was very hard to track down because the exact same error pattern is usually caused by something other than what it actually was. Wasted a good amount of filament (and time) with a lot of test prints until I found out I was on the completely wrong path with my attempts of fixing it. But well - another thing learned now.

Busting out all the different colored filament I have, and mixing and matching, I made nice themed individual tubes for the samples of my three CPC sets. I felt all like playing with the CPC Chip Design Tool again :)

DSC_4048r=2048t.jpg

Club Hel, 15 chip capacity
Paradise LA, 8 chip capacity
Horseshoe Cardroom, 10 chip capacity

Some more filament wasted while optimizing on the print settings for the 4th and last brand of filament I have (transparent yellow). Now the results have a reasonable fit, but there's still headroom. It is much more frustrating than with the other brands I use... this stuff does not forgive even just slightly too high temperature it seems. And the worst is, you don't see that the material expands just a tiny bit as there is no elephant foot effect at the bottom - you only find out when you take the finished print and it doesn't fit :mad:

I still have to conduct a little more testing, remake a few parts and print some new ones... and likely tomorrow, I'll receive a couple more filament spools and samples in new colors :)
 
Last edited:

Nex

Flush
Supporting Member
Joined
Jan 25, 2017
Messages
1,565
Reaction score
1,865
Location
Munich, Germany
And more throwbacks.

Wasted well over three hours with trying to save my printer's nozzle after it got clogged by (apparently) filament contaminated with foreign particles. No chance, had to replace it.

Fortunately you can get the nozzles in bulk very cheap if you buy unbranded ones... but the spool of filament I can probably throw into the trash. :tdown:

And potentially up to three more spools as well - although I'm not quite sure yet. I thought I had the old nozzle unclogged at one point, filament was flowing easily again, so I loaded a new spool and started printing. A minute or two into it, nozzle was clogged again. It's possible that the other filament is contaminated as well, but it's also entirely possible that it is fine and I simply didn't remove the clog completely but merely pushed it up in the hotend, where it was then pushed back down by the new filament.

So, no solid blue filament now. Possibly no solid light orange, solid yellow and solid lavender either.

I'll have to repeat tests with the other three spools, and then order whatever was contaminated from a different shop that has more expensive but higher-quality filament. Sadly they have no lavender, only purple, and their orange is a very saturated neon color like the spool of Prusa Orange I already have.
 

WedgeRock

Straight Flush
Supporting Member
Joined
Feb 25, 2016
Messages
9,153
Reaction score
12,824
Location
America's High-Five
And more throwbacks.

Wasted well over three hours with trying to save my printer's nozzle after it got clogged by (apparently) filament contaminated with foreign particles. No chance, had to replace it.

Fortunately you can get the nozzles in bulk very cheap if you buy unbranded ones... but the spool of filament I can probably throw into the trash. :tdown:

And potentially up to three more spools as well - although I'm not quite sure yet. I thought I had the old nozzle unclogged at one point, filament was flowing easily again, so I loaded a new spool and started printing. A minute or two into it, nozzle was clogged again. It's possible that the other filament is contaminated as well, but it's also entirely possible that it is fine and I simply didn't remove the clog completely but merely pushed it up in the hotend, where it was then pushed back down by the new filament.

So, no solid blue filament now. Possibly no solid light orange, solid yellow and solid lavender either.

I'll have to repeat tests with the other three spools, and then order whatever was contaminated from a different shop that has more expensive but higher-quality filament. Sadly they have no lavender, only purple, and their orange is a very saturated neon color like the spool of Prusa Orange I already have.
English only at the table, sir.
 

Nex

Flush
Supporting Member
Joined
Jan 25, 2017
Messages
1,565
Reaction score
1,865
Location
Munich, Germany
English only at the table, sir.
:p

Update: At least the other three spools turned out to be fine.

However, I managed to break my printer yet again... accidentally damaged the threading of the heat block. First, goop started to leak out... and now, after disassembling and reassembling the whole hotend, I can't even tighten the nozzle to the block anymore, it just falls out halfway :mad: Must have used too much force when screwing it in in last time.

Of course I have one replacement of just about any part of the printer that could possibly be subject to wear at home... except for the damn heat block. (And heatbreak, but I can probably reuse that)

At least one week of forced downtime until the replacement parts arrive.
This time I'm ordering two of each to have a backup handy should it ever happen again.

Anyway, due to the leaking I ended up with a couple of transparent tubes that were color-contaminated, and I've found some odd old plastic bomb chips. I will conduct some drop tests soon. On side, on cap, and 45deg angled. First with the cheapo chips, just to see if maybe the whole tube breaks. It's a nice choice for a stress test since the metal slug chips weigh more and hence the forces at work will be significantly greater than with lighter chips.
If it holds, I'll test another fresh tube with CPC sample chips.
 

Nex

Flush
Supporting Member
Joined
Jan 25, 2017
Messages
1,565
Reaction score
1,865
Location
Munich, Germany
Printer repaired and back up and running since Thursday. I've finished printing all the demo objects I wanted over the weekend.
Also made a test print of tube and caps with PLA plastic. Mechanically it sort of works, but I wouldn't want to give any guarantees on durability.

New pics below and from recent posts coming to OP shortly.

DSC_4085-4086panr=2048t.jpg

DSC_4093r=2048t.jpg

DSC_4096cr=2048t.jpg
 
Last edited:

BarrieJ3

Flush
Supporting Member
Joined
Nov 22, 2018
Messages
1,509
Reaction score
1,758
Location
Indiana
Man, this is almost annoyingly awesome! @Nex you take this to a while other level.

Between the sets you’ve created and these types of extras, I’m floored.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Nex

Nex

Flush
Supporting Member
Joined
Jan 25, 2017
Messages
1,565
Reaction score
1,865
Location
Munich, Germany
OP updated.

Still have the drop tests on my to-do list, as well as a proof of concept for tournament seating inserts for tube caps.
 

JeepologyOffroad

Flush
Supporting Member
Joined
Jul 22, 2019
Messages
1,173
Reaction score
1,669
Location
NM
Beautiful work. Very nicely done. Hope to get my hands on some of these one day.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Nex

Nex

Flush
Supporting Member
Joined
Jan 25, 2017
Messages
1,565
Reaction score
1,865
Location
Munich, Germany
With my last order of replacement parts for my printer, I also picked up one of those PEI powder-coated spring steel sheets that Prusa makes as an alternative to the smooth sheets.

Much harder to get filament to stick to it, but the texture looks absolutely gorgeous on solid color tube caps.

Still working on tweaking my print temperature settings for all the different filament brands I use for this textured sheet (needs much higher print bed temperature).

DSC_4099r=2048t.jpg
 

Nex

Flush
Supporting Member
Joined
Jan 25, 2017
Messages
1,565
Reaction score
1,865
Location
Munich, Germany
I might have been a tiny bit bored lately...

Adjusted tube dimensions to hold Euro coins and rolled up bills up to €50. The inner diameter is just enough to perfectly fit the coins, so it's either coins or bills but not both at the same time.

The tube wall has the same thickness as its big brother but the rails as well as the caps are a bit thinner. Hence lower filament consumption and shorter print times. Tube center: 2h 30m, both caps: 30m. It will fit roughly 32 coins, potentially one or two more depending on which denominations you take, as they all have slightly varying thicknesses.

DSC_4380r=2048t.jpg
 

Nex

Flush
Supporting Member
Joined
Jan 25, 2017
Messages
1,565
Reaction score
1,865
Location
Munich, Germany
Made a test print of a 43mm chip tube just to see if everything is okay with my parametric design in the other direction as well.
Other than a warped edge of one of the caps - which came from me being lazy and not properly cleaning the print bed - it works perfectly.

Only thing I noticed was the loose fit in comparison with my 39mm design. Turns out though that my 39mm CPCs aren't actually 39mm but more like 39.7 in diameter, while those Paulson 43mm are a perfect 43.0. The fit is not too loose though as to reduce usability or protection in a significant way, so I'll leave it as it is.

DSC_4431r=2048t.jpg
 

Nex

Flush
Supporting Member
Joined
Jan 25, 2017
Messages
1,565
Reaction score
1,865
Location
Munich, Germany
Picked up a couple new filament colors - among others, woodfill.
I am surprised I didn't get some of this stuff earlier to try out. Absolutely awesome results!

Essentially this is PLA plastic mixed with (a large amount of) very fine-grained wood dust. Occasionally clogs the printer nozzle, but not that bad that you couldn't fix it with a needle. Has a tasty maple syrup smell when it's being printed :)

Due to the high wood dust content, you can actually do a lot of postprocessing on the printed parts that you could also do to real wood workpieces, like sanding and staining. The material doesn't soak up that much like real wood so staining is a bit tricky, but absolutely doable.

Check out this mahogany "wood" chip tube. Sanded but unstained XYZ calibration cube for comparison.
Walnut and beech stain is already on the way.

DSC_4563r=2048t.jpg


(I admit I have to work on my staining skills, but I think it still nicely shows what's possible.)
 

Nex

Flush
Supporting Member
Joined
Jan 25, 2017
Messages
1,565
Reaction score
1,865
Location
Munich, Germany
If I also had to battle the printer itself alongside finding out what I managed to fuck up again to make the printer stop working - in the vast majority of cases so far it was my own fault! - I might very well have given up very early after getting the printer. Luckily, I decided against testing the waters of 3D printing as cheap as possible and went with something more expensive that was said to be of solid quality, very reliable and (comparatively) pleasant to work with.

In my youth, I face planted it numerous times when going cheap to try out a new hobby. It was purely born from necessity as I didn't have much cash back then, but anyway. The cheap stuff I bought always drained my energy fighting with it to make it work like it should, which in turn left me with no energy to actually dive into the hobby I wanted to try. My lesson from that was to rather spend more money on the initial equipment, even if that means that I can't try as many different things as I maybe wanted to. I have fared very well with that attitude.

The Creality Ender 3 was actually the very first printer I initially eyed - before eventually choosing to take the Prusa i3 MK3 kit instead (which is now a MK3S).

It appears to me that 3D printing is just on the brink of becoming easy enough to do that the masses might jump on the bandwagon. A few manufacturers, of course towards the more expensive end of the spectrum, have refined their machines just about enough that the most annoying hassles are being taken care of automatically so that the user can focus on the actual job. Many other manufacturers (the chinese i3 copycat legion among them) still haven't caught up.

But I should add - even my Prusa still takes enough work to keep it going, and it's easy enough to break it. I've spent a couple hundred bucks on replacement parts for stuff I've screwed up already, although that figure includes spares I still have, and I have a feeling that I've probably made the vast majority of the most common mistakes one can make by now.
 
Last edited:
Top Bottom