Oiling Chips Done Right (6 Viewers)

Does anyone have experience oiling CPS chips?
Does the aggressive crosshatch make it harder for this technique? (i.e. getting caught in the fibers of the towel, or even the crosshatching chipping off and creating stacking/even-ness issues?
 
Good question. I really liked that set you bought. Kind of regret not buying them myself. I'm trying to get my hands on a sample set right now. Do you feel like they need to be oiled? Are they chalky? One technique I read about talked about literally soaking them in an oil and water solution. I think you can also use a soft toothbrush instead of a towel. That might work better with all that texture on the chips.
 
I haven't received them yet, but the seller mentioned that oiling the yellows helped with the color variations.
I worry about soaking them because of the sticker "inlay". I'm sure the sticker will peel if I dunk them in water.

Soft toothbrush seems like the right idea!
 
All put away now.

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Does anyone have experience oiling CPS chips?
Does the aggressive crosshatch make it harder for this technique? (i.e. getting caught in the fibers of the towel, or even the crosshatching chipping off and creating stacking/even-ness issues?
Yes, oiling CPS chips works fine, use a very light amount though and be cautious around the labels. The crosshatching doesnt affect much of anything. If they're brand new and super chalky just oil them lightly let then dry for most of a day flip them and let them finish drying before wiping the excess off
 
Does anyone have experience oiling CPS chips?
Does the aggressive crosshatch make it harder for this technique? (i.e. getting caught in the fibers of the towel, or even the crosshatching chipping off and creating stacking/even-ness issues?
Good question. I really liked that set you bought. Kind of regret not buying them myself. I'm trying to get my hands on a sample set right now. Do you feel like they need to be oiled? Are they chalky? One technique I read about talked about literally soaking them in an oil and water solution. I think you can also use a soft toothbrush instead of a towel. That might work better with all that texture on the chips.
I know it's a long thread, but if you read all of it, you will find that most (if not all) of those with larger collections have found this to be the wrong technique. It's a poorly titled thread, with one man's opinion.

Compression does not matter, you are not "pressing" oil into the chip. I mean really, what did the OP even think? I want my chips to be shiny on the inside?

All you need to do is speed up the process that naturally occurs in a casino with players naturally handling the chips. Use very little oil and rub the chip. Some use one of those sponge shoe shine daubers...
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These absorb little oil and I understand is a very quick method. I prefer to handle every chip, because I love chips, but to each their own. Others use an oil and water method. I did not care for the results, but others have been satisfied. Again, to each their own, but nobody outside of the OP seems to advocate "compression" oiling. Unlike the OP, I have never had to re-oil chips, and I have oiled 2 large (1000 chip) sets, and 4 smaller (300-600 chips) sets. I've never heard of anyone else ever needing to re-oil chips either, unless they washed them afterwards.

If your chip looks oily, you have used way too much oil. Oily chips and average hands are formula for a dirty table.
 
I know it's a long thread, but if you read all of it, you will find that most (if not all) of those with larger collections have found this to be the wrong technique. It's a poorly titled thread, with one man's opinion.

Compression does not matter, you are not "pressing" oil into the chip. I mean really, what did the OP even think? I want my chips to be shiny on the inside?

All you need to do is speed up the process that naturally occurs in a casino with players naturally handling the chips. Use very little oil and rub the chip. Some use one of those sponge shoe shine daubers...
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These absorb little oil and I understand is a very quick method. I prefer to handle every chip, because I love chips, but to each their own. Others use an oil and water method. I did not care for the results, but others have been satisfied. Again, to each their own, but nobody outside of the OP seems to advocate "compression" oiling. Unlike the OP, I have never had to re-oil chips, and I have oiled 2 large (1000 chip) sets, and 4 smaller (300-600 chips) sets. I've never heard of anyone else ever needing to re-oil chips either, unless they washed them afterwards.

If your chip looks oily, you have used way too much oil. Oily chips and average hands are formula for a dirty table.

While I agree that this is just one person's opinion and that oily chips are bad (seriously, I use 8 drops / 100 chips), I think that the technique has valuable side effects, namely that dust and some chip material is removed.

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With that said, I've seen good tests from swipe/wipe methods too. I'll have to try the polisher you mention as well.
 
While I agree that this is just one person's opinion and that oily chips are bad (seriously, I use 8 drops / 100 chips), I think that the technique has valuable side effects, namely that dust and some chip material is removed.

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With that said, I've seen good tests from swipe/wipe methods too. I'll have to try the polisher you mention as well.
@BGinGA uses the shoe dauber method, I use the wiping method. My issues are with the compression and the amount of oil. Since @pipdenny questioned issues with the CPS chip crosshatching, it was apparent that he still thinks a lot of pressure is needed. I use about the same amount of pressure I would use to dry hand-dry stemware.
 
@BGinGA uses the shoe dauber method, I use the wiping method. My issues are with the compression and the amount of oil. Since @pipdenny questioned issues with the CPS chip crosshatching, it was apparent that he still thinks a lot of pressure is needed. I use about the same amount of pressure I would use to dry hand-dry stemware.

I agree, the OP uses way too much oil. The first time I tried it, I put a capful onto a rag. My first chips looked like they could slide across the table in their own. I started to adjust the method, put in smaller amounts per barrel, still totaling 1 capful. It was still too much! Finally, I got it down to about 2 drops per barrel and I was really happy.

The "compression" takes off material/dust and gives great coverage. And, like you, I like handling each one. But that's not to say other methods don't work equally as well.

Side note: I'm glad that I experimented with my capfuls on the Royals. Those cheap CCs drank it up and really needed it! If I had used a set of Paulsons, I would have ruined them. Since my learning experience, the 2 drops per barrel works great on Paulsons for me.
 
I think a light "compression" has some merit as it does allow faster penetration of oil into the chip pores, so that there's less excess on the face that needs to be absorbed into the external towel, therefore slightly faster "drying" time. I usually flip the chips after about 8 hours and rack them up 8 hours after that.
 
This is how much I used per CPC barrel and it worked well. Just a quick tip of the bottle onto the microfiber rag. If I got too much on my rag, I’d angle it so I only used half the oil on one barrel and used the other half on a second.

Just enough to get the edges. I quickly wiped the face to remove any excess that may have made it onto the face of the chip from gaps along the edges.
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Before/after on DG Peacock
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Clay chips benefit from very light oiling (protection and cosmetics). New BCC chips soak up oil, as do heavily cleaned Paulson and TRK chips. Most ASM/CPC chips really only benefit from edge oiling.

Plastic chips do not benefit from oiling. Being plastic (nylon/polyester), ceramic chips do not benefit from oiling. Being primarily plastic (especially later generations), some china clay colors (primarily darker hues) can benefit cosmetically from light oiling, but simply cleaning/removing the factory residue is sufficient for many colors.
 
Quick question guys... I'm going to oil some Horseshoe Cincinnati chips in prep for my next game. Wasn't sure on the best method for casino used paulsons. Should I just follow the directions in the op?
 
Quick question guys... I'm going to oil some Horseshoe Cincinnati chips in prep for my next game. Wasn't sure on the best method for casino used paulsons. Should I just follow the directions in the op?
How dirty are they?
 
I won't profess to know everything about anything or anything about everything; but what I do know is I often research and test subject matter to the fullest extent possible to find the best results.

Using a combination of advices from numerous poker minds, I set myself up to test oiling of chips in a variety of ways--from wipe n dry, to dip n drip and oil and water dont mix except with chip tricks. Yada yada.

Well, with a number of mixed results, I discovered that most methods left the chips looking great--at first--then left them lacking thereafter (usually within 1-5 days). A number of factors playing--oil type, drying method, application method, etc.

Well, after much testing using just basic Milano China Clays (which aren't supposed to take oil as well as CPC or Paulsons), I believe I have discovered the best way to oil those chips and keep them that way afterward. I named this method: Compression Oiling. A mix of common methods with a touch of my own strategical experimentation and creativity.

Hopefully my step by step tutorial on Compression Oiling will help others who keep having trouble with their oiling, and it seeming like a waste of time. Yes, your oil and chips will dry out--unless you follow the instructions I'm about to present.

Without further delay, let's jump right in!

First, I am assuming by this point you have already removed the factory dust by wiping off your chips with warm water and a little Dawn dishwashing liquid--I used the pink hand lotion version as it helped tone down the clay smell also.

Here is the difference between factory shipped dust-covered chips next to unoiled cleaned chips with 2 oiled chips hiding within.
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Bear in mind, most of the tests I conducted for oiling made the chips shine for about a day and then they returned to the "clean" matte color on the right. That suggests that most people who oil all their chips collectively probably won't notice the dullness a day later as the chips will still look clean compared to factory dust-covered. Be not deceived. Unless done right, the oil is probably gone a couple days later (as all my tests proved)--you just can't tell without a comparison. There is a significant difference beyond clean chips and clean oiled chips retaining their sheen.

Here is an example of clean chips next to oiled chips done right and still holding their shine nearly a week later and showing no signs of fading.
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So, what do you need to get started after cleaning your chips?

You need a microfiber cloth, pure mineral oil (fragrance free), and chips! A flat surface covered with plain colorless paper towels is essential.
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Some will agrue here and say to use a shoe polish applicator or water/oil dip, etc. for speed and ease. To each their own. I tried every method I could find and none of them worked better than what I am going to share, so more on that further in. Meanwhile, I will point out that if you want something done right the first time, and not having to do it over, then effort and time is required to make it so.

A wise man once told me, "Adam, how come there is never enough time to first do something right, but there is always enough time to do it over?"

Let's do this right, folks!

First thing I am going to tell you is the oil does not hurt your adhesive stickers on Milanos. I can't speak for other chip stickers or inlays yet (I'd be cautious if the sticker is paper made), but to test, I left a Milano chip submerged in oil for a week and there is no discoloration of the plastic label or loosening of its adhesive seal. Myth busted.

Next, oil can be a little liberal if you're using microfiber cloth. I start by filling the oil cap and then massaging it into the cloth to form an oil spread 3 times the chip size. Do not use the baby oil--it is filled with evaporative agents. Do not use wax--it is petroleum-based. Use pure mineral oil. Walgreens has an excellent version shown above.
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The next step is something you wont read anywhere, and I had to learn it the hard way. I think it is the single most critical reason why everyone's oil keeps drying out. I will quickly trademark this rule as mine. We will call it the "Stibnite Seal n Shine©", all rights reserved 2016.

Working with polymers, seals, impregnators, densifiers, urethanes and other forms of coverants in my business, I am highly experienced when it comes to sealing off the microscopic pores of surfaces. One thing is for sure--in order to seal something with non-water based substances like oil, it requires compression. Wooden cutting boards, for example, must be press-oiled 2-5 times before they are sealed tight and ready to use.

In layman's terms, that means if you want this china clay chip sealed right with oil, then you must add pressure to seal and lock it in. Sorry shoe polish applicators and oil-water dips--your oiling method won't stand the test of time on China Clays. Plus, water/oil mixtures apply unevenly and leave a splotchy appearance on the chip faces. That said, however, because the higher end clays are more porous, those methods are more effective overall than they are on china clays, but compression oiling WILL still be far better and provide a uniform and lasting covering and seal.

What is compression oiling? Well, it is quite simple. It means you add pressure while oiling. Using one hand, hold the oiled microfiber cloth with three fingers and using the other hand, spin a single chip between your thumb, index and middle finger firmly--applying surrounding pressure to both faces and edge at the same time. You WILL feel the chalky substance peeling off (yes, AFTER having washed the chips already), and once the edge feels smoothened from both pressure and oil, it is done. Set it on the paper towel.
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Now, you've done this rack of 100 chips and the hard part is next. You must wait 24-48 hours. Air drying is the only way to let these seal and cure. Do NOT disturb them during the air dry process.

Now, to show you why compression is important during oiling, take a look at how much rough surface came off onto the microfiber rag during compression oiling AFTER these chips had been soap washed and dryed from the factory dust.
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Compression oiling smoothens the surface and edges and forces the oil deep into the pores of the clay that oil layering or dipping cannot achieve. It also makes them much better for shuffling, etc.

The next step is another factor you wont see in the instruction manuals of chip oiling. If you use plastic trays, then you should know that they, too, are porous microscopically. Yes, get that rag out and oil the inside of your trays also, and let them air dry for 1-2 days along side of your chips. You'll be glad you did, as the charge from the plastic can withdraw active oils from within the clay. Oops! Who'd thought their plastic trays were drying out their chips? Just seal them the same way.
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Now, after waiting a day or two, your anticipation is getting the best of you. Time to get those chips off of the paper towels and dry off the adhesive sticker. Do not wipe the edge and face of chips dry with the microfiber towel as this just needlessly dulls the chip and sucks out the oil--defeating the whole purpose for air drying. Just grab the chip and quickly swipe the sticker dry and clean only. I hold the chip on the edges and make a small central swirling motion with a pinch of the thumb and index finger to clean the sticker on both sides, and done. Then start putting your chips in stacks of 10. The oil should be properly air dried by this point anyhow. The oil on the sticker, however, will still be moist enough to wipe away since the sticker on Milanos is non-porous.
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Adhesive sticker is clean and intact!

Now, you have many oiled chips in stacks of 10 sitting there. Grab a stack and place it on your oiled microfiber cloth within your hand. Hold them evenly and firmly in place and roll the edges only--avoiding faces and stickers. The edges are far more porous and truly require this second coat, but the second coat does not require compression. During this step I did not re-oil the rag, but used the leftover, nearly dried oil from the day prior. No need to make this coating heavier than a simple brisk.
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Now, place the chip stacks right into the rack, as is, to air dry for another 12-24 hours. After air drying, take them out one last time and there will be a line of settlement oil that didn't absorb left on two sides of the chips where the rack made contact on the edges. Just use your fingers and wipe it away or massage it into the chip. Do not wipe them off with the microfiber. The trace amount is so insignificant that your skin will absorb it even if you just bust them out and play them at this point.
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Congratulations. Your chips are ready to play. Place them back into the racks and call your friends and enemies over.

After nearly a week, you can see clearly that these chips are holding their shine both in play and out of play.
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Unplayed compression oiled reds 6 days old next to clean unoiled reds.

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Oiled blacks oiled and played for 6 days and holding their shine without any signs of wear.


In conclusion, Compression Oiling is the way to go in my book. I am currently applying this method to the 1000 lot and looking forward to the difference it makes to these Milanos.

I hope you found this information and guide helpful to your oiling process.

Oiling Chips Done Right!


Update: September 5, 2016 (Two week mark)

After two weeks of rigorous play, these racks which were finished back on the 21st of August still look amazing. No chips have dried out or lost sheen. I used a more natural lighting and opposing background to capture the real look so they don't appear "too" shiney.

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Also, the shuffling ability of these chips after proper oiling is pretty solid. I can smack two stacks of 20 with both hands at the same time. I can't achieve this with most casino chips consistently.

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This is super useful, thanks for your insights
 
Not to beat a dead horse, but I agree with @Poker Zombie this isn't perfect!I have used the compression method for a year now on over 20,000 chips.

I do everything exactly the same as the OP other than I absolutely do wipe the entire chip after the drying period. I don't see how a quick wipe is pulling out the oil that has soaked into the clay.

Excess oil os going to then absorb into your cloth or felt along with dirt, skin particles (dust), any food that may not have been properly washed off. All of this is what we refer to as Hooker Juice, its nasty when you get used chips but can you imagine basically your entire playing surface absorbing hooker juice... yuck!!

There are 100 ways to skin a cat as they say, find what works for you! I prefer this method but do not leave your chips wet. After wiping them off they will still have that beautiful bright color and be properly sealed. It's even hard to imagine players didn't complain about oily hands after playing those chips!

Just my 2 cents on the subject!

Fellow Chipper Ben
 
Not to beat a dead horse, but I agree with @Poker Zombie this isn't perfect!I have used the compression method for a year now on over 20,000 chips.

I do everything exactly the same as the OP other than I absolutely do wipe the entire chip after the drying period. I don't see how a quick wipe is pulling out the oil that has soaked into the clay.

Excess oil os going to then absorb into your cloth or felt along with dirt, skin particles (dust), any food that may not have been properly washed off. All of this is what we refer to as Hooker Juice, its nasty when you get used chips but can you imagine basically your entire playing surface absorbing hooker juice... yuck!!

There are 100 ways to skin a cat as they say, find what works for you! I prefer this method but do not leave your chips wet. After wiping them off they will still have that beautiful bright color and be properly sealed. It's even hard to imagine players didn't complain about oily hands after playing those chips!

Just my 2 cents on the subject!

Fellow Chipper Ben

Yes, I agree that this method is not perfect. But I've gotten very good results from a modification of the method (similar to Ben). After compressing, I wipe down all faces on both sides, then I let them sit and dry for a day with a flip. Edge oiling comes next, then more waiting and wipe down of any excess. After about 2-3 days total, a rack is done; it's not oily and it looks great (and stays that way for at least 8 months).

However, I was too much of a puss to do this with my expensive Joker's Wild 25c HS. So, I did the swipe-n-wipe method with those. Got about 90% color uniformity with virtually no excess at all. Then, I did the edge oiling with even less oil (like, 1 drop on a rag and then waiting a really long time before I used it). And the results were really good! And much faster than the compression method.
 

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