Oiling Chips Done Right (13 Viewers)

Not to beat a dead horse, but I agree with @Poker Zombie this isn't perfect!I have used the compression method for a year now on over 20,000 chips.

I do everything exactly the same as the OP other than I absolutely do wipe the entire chip after the drying period. I don't see how a quick wipe is pulling out the oil that has soaked into the clay.

Excess oil os going to then absorb into your cloth or felt along with dirt, skin particles (dust), any food that may not have been properly washed off. All of this is what we refer to as Hooker Juice, its nasty when you get used chips but can you imagine basically your entire playing surface absorbing hooker juice... yuck!!

There are 100 ways to skin a cat as they say, find what works for you! I prefer this method but do not leave your chips wet. After wiping them off they will still have that beautiful bright color and be properly sealed. It's even hard to imagine players didn't complain about oily hands after playing those chips!

Just my 2 cents on the subject!

Fellow Chipper Ben

**Disclaimer: I've only used this method to oil paulson chips**
Definitely agree @Ben8257 @BearMetal . I've only oiled after cleaning (and drying) my chips. I now tend to use as little oil as possible and apply using a piece of foam, which allows me to oil all sides. I only use enough to re-hydrate the chips though, and allow the coloring to pop again. As @allforcharity mentioned, light compression does have it's merits, and for me, some light pressure is needed to make sure that the oil hits the hat/cane and other recessed areas of the chip. I've tried moderate amounts of oil before (not even as much as the OP suggested), and found that the excess oil just sits on the surface. Even after laying out on drying racks for 24-48 hrs, excess oil that's not absorbed just pools on the chips. I need to wipe them down before racking them and even after that, some oil still seeps out over the next few days and sometimes a week or so (the heat also pulls the oils out a bit too). The times that i've used just enough oil to bring the coloring back, I've noticed that the chips dry much quicker (~24 or less hrs) and the oil doesn't seep out as much when they're racked up.
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Even after laying out on drying racks for 24-48 hrs, excess oil that's not absorbed just pools on the chips.

Yeah, I was lucky enough to pop my proverbial oiling cherry on China Clays. I used waaaay too much, but they soaked 95% of it up. By the time I got around to Paulsons, I had learned only a couple of drops per barrel.
 
I have to agree with compression for oiling well used Paulsons. I oiled a rack of my PCA primaries a week ago and you can still really see how much of a difference it's made. The two racks looked pretty identical prior to oiling.
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I would not disagree with oiling - just the "Compression Oiling" method described in the OP is just overkill and a ton of extra effort for no extra results.
 
I would not disagree with oiling - just the "Compression Oiling" method described in the OP is just overkill and a ton of extra effort for no extra results.

I was too chicken to compression oil my ancient (spirits of evil; 80s reference anyone?) Joker's Wild fracs. I did the old swipe-and-wipe method and I think they definitely came out good. But maybe not as "uniform" as the compression oiling would have gotten them. Surely, faster, and a lot less of a chance of using too much oil. Moving forward, I dunno ... I might go back to compression if I have lots of extra time. Then again, the results were pretty good without the whole effort.
 
I prefer the oil/water method because it’s so easy, and you can get so many chips done in comparison to compression oiling, but the compression oiling makes chips pop better than any other way I’ve tried. It’s a lot of work, though. And the carpal tunnel kicks in quickly!
 
I went through 16 pages and couldn't really find a concesus (admittedly I was tired and confused reading this). I have just recieved a set of 400 bank poker chips from Apache (https://www.apachepokerchips.com/product/bank-18xx-board-games-poker-chips/) and wanted to give the method @Trihonda uses in his video a go (water + oil). A couple of questions:
  • First, of course: is it advisable to use this method on china clays with labels like these?
  • If yes: how do I best clean the chips before oiling (I don't a ultrasonic cleaner)? Do they need to dry completely before water/oiling?
  • Do we have a concesus on ratios for water + oil for CCs?
  • How long do they need to dry after oiling and patting with a towel?

Also, and this may sound stupid, but any Europeans/Swedes who've used this and can tell me what type of "mineral oil" to use? Mineral oil here means motor oil, so I'm trying my best not to screw up here.

Sorry for the double post from a thread specifically on this method, not sure how active that thread is anymore.
 
I went through 16 pages and couldn't really find a concesus (admittedly I was tired and confused reading this). I have just recieved a set of 400 bank poker chips from Apache (https://www.apachepokerchips.com/product/bank-18xx-board-games-poker-chips/) and wanted to give the method @Trihonda uses in his video a go (water + oil). A couple of questions:
  • First, of course: is it advisable to use this method on china clays with labels like these?
  • If yes: how do I best clean the chips before oiling (I don't a ultrasonic cleaner)? Do they need to dry completely before water/oiling?
  • Do we have a concesus on ratios for water + oil for CCs?
  • How long do they need to dry after oiling and patting with a towel?

Also, and this may sound stupid, but any Europeans/Swedes who've used this and can tell me what type of "mineral oil" to use? Mineral oil here means motor oil, so I'm trying my best not to screw up here.

Sorry for the double post from a thread specifically on this method, not sure how active that thread is anymore.
  • I have never soaked china clay chips, so I'm not sure if it would be bad for the labels. For the sake of safety, I use the swipe and wipe method. It is more time consuming, but poses no risk.
  • If your chips are labeled, I would not worry about cleaning them. The swipe and wipe method will remove any excess dust. If unlabeled, I have dumped all the chips into a tub and water, and swirled them around.
  • I cannot comment, as the one time I tried this method, I did not like the results.
  • That will vary on how absorbant the surface is that the chips are resting on. Mineral oil does not evaporate. If it is going anywhere, it is being absorbed into something (like a towel, or into the chip).
The correct oil is the kind you could take orally for constipation, or to help with dry skin. You can check with a pharmacy for the proper type locally.
 
  • I have never soaked china clay chips, so I'm not sure if it would be bad for the labels. For the sake of safety, I use the swipe and wipe method. It is more time consuming, but poses no risk.
Care to elaborate on the swipe and wipe method? I do have labeled chips.
 
Just a dab of oil onto a rag, then rub it onto the chip. Then use a clean section of the cloth to wipe it off.
It works better if you use 2 hands, but I was holding the camera.
 
Just a dab of oil onto a rag, then rub it onto the chip. Then use a clean section of the cloth to wipe it off.
It works better if you use 2 hands, but I was holding the camera.
And there's no risk doing that with labeled china clays?
 
Right, thanks. I've settled on giving the swipe and wipe a go, how long (if any) would I need to have the chips "dry" before putting them in a tray?
Mine went right in the tray. Worst case, if you used too much oil, it would leave a little in the tray. That could be easily wiped out later. I did not have that issue though. As you can see I used very little oil - that quick dab was plenty for a barrel plus. Sometimes I have to give a few more wipes to the first couple chips after oiling the rag, and I will fondle the chips if I got too much on the edge. It's a great hand moisturizer, so I prefer to oil chips in the winter when my hands get super dry. Kill two birds with one stone.
 
Mine went right in the tray. Worst case, if you used too much oil, it would leave a little in the tray. That could be easily wiped out later. I did not have that issue though. As you can see I used very little oil - that quick dab was plenty for a barrel plus. Sometimes I have to give a few more wipes to the first couple chips after oiling the rag, and I will fondle the chips if I got too much on the edge. It's a great hand moisturizer, so I prefer to oil chips in the winter when my hands get super dry. Kill two birds with one stone.
Just did the first 50 of 400 and the results are amazing for five minutes work. Thanks for this, much appreciated!

Un-oiled on the left, oiled on the right (if that wasn't obvious).

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I prefer the oil/water method because it’s so easy, and you can get so many chips done in comparison to compression oiling, but the compression oiling makes chips pop better than any other way I’ve tried. It’s a lot of work, though. And the carpal tunnel kicks in quickly!
I have read mixed results on the oil / water method posted by @Trihonda. Have some relatively expensive Paulsons I'd like to oil (they've been ultrasonic cleaned) and do NOT want to mess up inlays. Seems like a capful of oil in the water, and literally dunking for 5 seconds and pulling out wouldn't be effective in oiling them...but I assume I'm wrong here...
 
I have read mixed results on the oil / water method posted by @Trihonda. Have some relatively expensive Paulsons I'd like to oil (they've been ultrasonic cleaned) and do NOT want to mess up inlays. Seems like a capful of oil in the water, and literally dunking for 5 seconds and pulling out wouldn't be effective in oiling them...but I assume I'm wrong here...

Do it by hand. You don't have to use much pressure on the rim at all. It goes quicker than you might think.

Cue this whole post for OOC.
 
I have read mixed results on the oil / water method posted by @Trihonda. Have some relatively expensive Paulsons I'd like to oil (they've been ultrasonic cleaned) and do NOT want to mess up inlays. Seems like a capful of oil in the water, and literally dunking for 5 seconds and pulling out wouldn't be effective in oiling them...but I assume I'm wrong here...

I did all compression oiling before finding the oil/water method. I’ve done thousands of chips both ways. I nearly exclusively go with the oil/water method now. Try it. You will see that it works.
 
I have read mixed results on the oil / water method posted by @Trihonda. Have some relatively expensive Paulsons I'd like to oil (they've been ultrasonic cleaned) and do NOT want to mess up inlays. Seems like a capful of oil in the water, and literally dunking for 5 seconds and pulling out wouldn't be effective in oiling them...but I assume I'm wrong here...

the paulsons I used in my video were “relatively expensive” leaded THC LCO chips, and had zero fear that dunking them, or even soaking them for 5 mins would Negativity impact them. Go fo it. Only thing you risk is a little time, but you also risk saving a ton of time, if it works :)
 
They’re getting oiled one way or the other. Just didn’t want the inlay you get messed up but also wanted to make sure they got enough oil.
 
Thanks for all the encouragement. Rather dunk for 10 seconds a barrel than compression oil for minutes
 
Weekends on lockdown aren't as fun as regular weekends. Spent the afternoon waiting for the Giants game to come on compression oiling two racks of Key West $1's and edge oiling all of my Paulsons and BCC chips yet to be oiled.

The Jack $5's and $100's, CDI $1's, $100's, and $500's, and Protege $5's, $100's, and $500's benefitted the most from the oil, I think!

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