Tourney Need moar - tourney set breakdown (1 Viewer)

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Already looking ahead to adding on to a set I just purchased and was wondering:

Assuming available denoms are 25/100/500/1K/5K/25K, what kind of set would allow for:

1. 3 tables, unlimited rebuys (first 4 rounds or something like that), 6-ish hour tournament.
2. 2-tables, all-day deep-stacked tournament.

Thanks!
Lee
 
Practically any set with enough of the lowest denom (12x number of players) will work. You can even get away with 8x of the lowest denom if you don't mind making change.

Length of the tournament can be varied by making levels longer or shorter, and by altering how much the blind increases between levels.

What is the breakdown of the chips you currently have, and how many players does that set suit you for? There is a possibility that you may not need any more chips.
 
30 people (5k or 10k starting stacks) ...min chips needed + extras for color ups and rebuys

25 - 240 + few extras
100 - 240 + 160
500 - 120 + 80
1000 - 60 + 140
5000 - 30 + 130 (rebuy chips with one or two 5ks)
25k - 0 + handful for the final table

1200 total chips plus extras

This would be 8/8/4/2/1 starting stacks for T10k .... can pump out more 100's for bigger chip count starting stacks but thats all personal preference (y) :thumbsup:
 
Thanks for the info! What I have coming is

25 - 200
100 - 200
500 - 180
1000 - 120
5000 - 80
25000 - 20

Which should be plenty for 2 tables. I can definitely add more 500 and 1000 (not sure yet how much are available) but to get more 25s, 100s, or 5000s would have to pry them from other buyers.
 
8x T25s per player is less than optimal (in my book), but I've played with such stacks numerous times in other games and it wasn't the end of the world - it was just "cheap" feeling. Like playing in a casino where they are trying to minimize their expense (which is all of them). With only 200x T25s, you are going to be limited to 25 player games, and are optimized for 16 player games.

10-12x T100s per player is my optimal after T25s are colored up. Again 8x will work, but it feels tight and you will be making a lot of change when blinds get to 200-400. or 400-800. A lot of change.

T500s are solid. 180 is plenty for 3 tables. Players rarely need to bet more than a single T500 in any bet, so 4-6 per player is plenty (and 6 is on the heavy side). Small surprise that T500s are readily available.

Your T1000s -T25,000s are good too. You can easily build a T8000 starting stack 8/8/6/4 for 30 players with a 6 hour structure, but you need more T25s and T100s if you want more than 25 players.
 
Your T1000s -T25,000s are good too. You can easily build a T8000 starting stack 8/8/6/4 for 30 players with a 6 hour structure, but you need more T25s and T100s if you want more than 25 players.

Perfect, this is exactly what I needed to know. Hopefully i can make it happen.
 
I'd suggest going with slightly less 500s and slightly more 1000s. Since this is the only time in the standard denoms above where the chip denoms jump 2x, instead of 4x or 5x, sets can get away with less 500s. replace them with 1000s, which will add more 'bank' for rebuys and color ups.

Instead of 180 T500s and 120 T1000s, maybe reverse them 120 T500s and 180 T1000s. 120 T500s is enough to have 4 per player for 30 players.

Just handle color-ups with T1000s from the bank, and make change for T100s or T500s from the large stacks, if needed to handle color-ups.
 
I went with this for a 30 man set and it works great. With all of the extra T1000 and T5000 you can run a 30 man tourney very easily and not feel cheap by going deep stacks of T25000.

Breakdown
T25 X 240
T100 X 240
T500 X 140
T1000 X 240
T5000 X 120
T25000 X 20

Starting stacks
8 x T25
8 x T100
4 x T500
7 x T1000
3 x T5000
 
I went with this for a 30 man set and it works great. With all of the extra T1000 and T5000 you can run a 30 man tourney very easily and not feel cheap by going deep stacks of T25000.

Breakdown
T25 X 240
T100 X 240
T500 X 140
T1000 X 240
T5000 X 120
T25000 X 20

Starting stacks
8 x T25
8 x T100
4 x T500
7 x T1000
3 x T5000
^^ For a 30-player 1000-chip set, this gets my vote.

What I have coming is

25 - 200
100 - 200
500 - 180
1000 - 120
5000 - 80
25000 - 20
1. 3 tables, unlimited rebuys (first 4 rounds or something like that), 6-ish hour tournament.
2. 2-tables, all-day deep-stacked tournament.
For #1 -- 3 tables, unlimited re-buys, 6 hours -- that 1000 chip set above will work if using T10000 starting stacks (8/8/4/7), while using T1000 chips for color-ups and T5000 chips for re-buys. A "standard" blind schedule with T200BB (25/50 opening blinds), 40% average blind increases, and 20-minute blind levels will run about 6 hours plus breaks.

For #2 -- 2 tables, deep-stack (500BB?), all day (12 hrs?), that same 1000 chip set will work if using T25000 starting stacks (12/12/5/6/3), while using T1000 and T5000 chips for color-ups. A "standard" blind schedule with T500BB (25/50 opening blinds), 40% average blind increases, and 30-minute blind levels will run about 9.5 hours plus breaks. Add about 1.5 hours total time for each 5-minute increase in the blind levels (i.e., 35-minute levels = 11 hours, 40-minute levels = 12.5 hours.... plus breaks).

For both scenarios, use T1000 chips to color-up the T25/T100 chips, T5000 chips to color-up the T500 chips, and T25000 chips to color-up some of the T1000 chips (when required, or to help make final two or three stacks more manageable). You don't need extra T100 or T500 chips for color-ups, since they will just get removed later.

To reach that magical 1000-chip set, you need to purchase the following:
40 x T25
40 x T100
120 x T1000
40 x T5000
--------------
240 more chips.

Since you have 40 more T500s than needed, you can get away with purchasing 20x fewer T1000s..... certainly workable, but it would be less than optimal. You can also get by with just 200 x T1000 chips total (using more T5000 chips for color-ups and a few extra T500s in some 30-player starting stacks), but again, less than optimal.

Going the sub-optimal route, you need:
40 x T25
40 x T100
60 x T1000
40 x T5000
--------------
180 more chips.
 
Now, if you want to talk about a 30+ player super-deep-stack set that is OCD-compliant, then you're looking at something like this;

300 x T25
300 x T100
200 x T500
300 x T1000
200 x T5000
100x T25000
--------------
1400 chips.

:)
 
Looks like I have the justification I need to buy more chips! Thanks!
 
Zombie and BG both gave good advice. Here is how I would do it, but I'll try to give all I consider when buying a chip set.
  • T25 = 300 (12 ea starting)
  • T100 = 450 (12 ea starting) -- I would have enough to completely color up the T25s. You don't have to do it that way, but I've learned you might use a different configuration along the way and that gives you more flexibility when your lowest is T100.
  • T500 = 160, 135, or 195 (3 or 5 ea starting) -- I'd be most inclined to do 160 and use 5, but not plan on many color up chips. I would go with 3 each if I were trying to save some money because 3 is very playable, though 5 is a little better. Neither one affects the number higher value denoms, so it's 60 chips more.
  • T1000 = 280 (6 or 7 ea starting) -- These will be your primary color up chips for smaller denoms.
  • T5000 = 150 (0 to 3 ea starting) -- Not needed to start with a 10K starting stack, but allows 3 re-buys per player at that level. Also allows you up to 40K starting stacks, and anything in between.
  • T25000 = 120 (0 starting) -- Allows a lot of flexibility and coloring up starting with the 1000s for late in the tournament. Also allows T100000 starting stacks -- good for an all day (12 hour) tournament).
Total = 1460 chips. I'd add 5-10 extras per denom. To be OCD compliant (love that line BG!), you may have to go to 1600 if your OCD requires even numbers of barrels and even numbers of racks. Or you use 4x25 boxes like I do and must have them in 25s instead of 20s and full boxes.

You can do it with fewer chips, but if that's what you want, decrease the smaller chips and increase the larger chips. For example, instead of 450 T100s, only go with 300 and plan to color up using higher chip values. I'm much more inclined to use more higher value chips because they create flexibility for future changes. I even have T100,000 chips in my tournament sets, designed for up to 40 players.

BG said you could use 40% average blind increases and play a long time. He's right. We use an average increase of between 1.55x to 1.6x increases. That requires higher values and deeper stacks to do the same thing as 1.40x, but is just as playable. He and I both like steady increases, and so do players, even if they can't express why.

There are 5 factors that determine the length of your tournament. Alter one and you alter the tournament time. The 5 factors, in no particular order, are:
  1. Starting stacks in BB -- A tournament is deep stacked if over 150, very short stacked at 100. A player is considered to be competitive at 50 BB, short stacked at 30 BB, seriously short stacked at 20 BB, and desperately short stacked at 10 BB. By itself, this is a good guide, but this is somewhat in a vacuum. You have to look at the average blind increases too.
  2. Average blind increases -- How rapidly blinds go up (most increases should be 1.33-1.6 – 2.0 or higher is considered too high).
  3. Length of rounds -- 1 hour or more is considered slow; 30 minutes about average, 15 or less very fast, and under 10, lightning fast. The average hand is about 2 minutes, so anything less than 2 minutes per player at maximum players per table is probably too fast as it doesn’t give every player a chance at every position every round.
  4. Number of players
  5. Total chips in tournament -- There are two different formulas to determine how long a tournament will last. One is when Antes (A), Small Blind (S), and Big Blind (B) added together equals 5% of the total amount of chips in play (T), the tournament will end. This is expressed in several ways, but one is A+S+B = T*.05. A second formula is when B equals 5%, expressed as B=T*.05.
Tournament structure is primarily science, but there is some art to it. It gets more difficult to calculate length when one factors I unknown. Allowing re-buys alters the total chips in the tournament. You can make intelligent guesses, especially if re-buys are limited to a certain number per player, a time, or both. How much those re-buys are in BB when they are allowed may or may not lengthen the tournament by much.

When I buy a chip set, I look at structures that involve average increases from 1.25x to 2.0x blind increases; one table more than I think I'll likely have in case my chips are used outside my own house; and very deep stacked tournaments because I've learned players like that.

Perception counts a lot, but it's also funny. I used to have a 200 BB starting stack. Another local game had 300 BB starting stack. Though my freeze-outstructure was much better, players felt like they got more for their money at that game. That game also allowed one re-buy or add-on. If you never felted until the break, that same 300 BB to start was only a 15 BB add-on starting at the 6th round. Somehow some players thought they really got 600 BB in that game, but at most it was 315 BB. So I changed my structure to 500 BB in the starting stack. Mine was still a freeze out, but almost everyone saw mine as better.

Perception is funny.
  • I discovered that I could add more chips, alter the starting blinds, have fewer BB in the starting stack, but because players got more chips, they think it's better.
  • Though we try to use 50-67% increases in blinds every time, I double the first time. I don't really like it, but players complained the game was too slow when I started with a 50% increase. Talk about silly... Anyway, I just added to the starting stack to make up for that one 2x bump.
  • A surprising number of players, at least to me, don't like re-buys. I'm more of a "get their money in the prize pool" type. Re-buys are to me better for players who don't re-buy. As best I can tell, there are 2 reasons cited. They [1] don't like not knowing how much they could lose, or a double buy-in is too much for them, or [2] they don't like having to knock someone out twice. I don't personally have enough data to support my theory that players who re-buy don't do as well in tournaments when they re-buy as when they don't, and not because they re-buy.
BG doesn't like the first round doubling. I agree with him, but he understands something most players don't. To keep the "customers" happy, I made an adjustment that doesn't alter the outcome of my tournament.

The answer on this board is always more chips.... ;)
 
Already looking ahead to adding on to a set I just purchased and was wondering:

Assuming available denoms are 25/100/500/1K/5K/25K, what kind of set would allow for:

1. 3 tables, unlimited rebuys (first 4 rounds or something like that), 6-ish hour tournament.
2. 2-tables, all-day deep-stacked tournament.

Thanks!
Lee
If you're thinking you might have 30 players, then you really should think about a set that would allow you to handle 40 players for those rare days when a few guys bring a buddy (or you host a meet-up!)...and since most of the suggestions so far are for at least 1200 chips, why not configure the set to handle more runners? I am firmly in the camp that all color-ups should be done with T1000 or higher--this is the most efficient use of your chips and means you wont waste valuable chips on T100s or T500s that only get limited use anyway.

This is the MOST flexible set that will allow you to handle 40 people (T10k starting stacks), with basically unlimited rebuys. Starting stacks of 8/8/4/7 or 8/8/4/2/1 for T10k. And the bonus kicker is that for fewer players, it allows larger starting stacks or larger amounts of each of the lower denoms:

T25 x 320
T100 x 320
T500 x 160
T1000 x 300
T5000 x 80
T25k x 20

1200 total chips (but buy a few extras of each in case of Murphy).
 
Now you have many to choose from. All you need to do is get the add on that will benefit your game.

Funny thing is is all of these suggestions can be right but only you know which will fit your particular game.

Good luck with your set!
 
T25 x 320
T100 x 320
T500 x 160
T1000 x 300
T5000 x 80
T25k x 20

1200 total chips
And ^^that^^ would get my vote for a 30-player 1200-chip set. Those extra 200 chips provide a lot of flexibility.
 
^^ For a 30-player 1000-chip set, this gets my vote.



For #1 -- 3 tables, unlimited re-buys, 6 hours -- that 1000 chip set above will work if using T10000 starting stacks (8/8/4/7), while using T1000 chips for color-ups and T5000 chips for re-buys. A "standard" blind schedule with T200BB (25/50 opening blinds), 40% average blind increases, and 20-minute blind levels will run about 6 hours plus breaks.

For #2 -- 2 tables, deep-stack (500BB?), all day (12 hrs?), that same 1000 chip set will work if using T25000 starting stacks (12/12/5/6/3), while using T1000 and T5000 chips for color-ups. A "standard" blind schedule with T500BB (25/50 opening blinds), 40% average blind increases, and 30-minute blind levels will run about 9.5 hours plus breaks. Add about 1.5 hours total time for each 5-minute increase in the blind levels (i.e., 35-minute levels = 11 hours, 40-minute levels = 12.5 hours.... plus breaks).

For both scenarios, use T1000 chips to color-up the T25/T100 chips, T5000 chips to color-up the T500 chips, and T25000 chips to color-up some of the T1000 chips (when required, or to help make final two or three stacks more manageable). You don't need extra T100 or T500 chips for color-ups, since they will just get removed later.

To reach that magical 1000-chip set, you need to purchase the following:
40 x T25
40 x T100
120 x T1000
40 x T5000
--------------
240 more chips.

Since you have 40 more T500s than needed, you can get away with purchasing 20x fewer T1000s..... certainly workable, but it would be less than optimal. You can also get by with just 200 x T1000 chips total (using more T5000 chips for color-ups and a few extra T500s in some 30-player starting stacks), but again, less than optimal.

Going the sub-optimal route, you need:
40 x T25
40 x T100
60 x T1000
40 x T5000
--------------
180 more chips.

Zombie and BG both gave good advice. Here is how I would do it, but I'll try to give all I consider when buying a chip set.
  • T25 = 300 (12 ea starting)
  • T100 = 450 (12 ea starting) -- I would have enough to completely color up the T25s. You don't have to do it that way, but I've learned you might use a different configuration along the way and that gives you more flexibility when your lowest is T100.
  • T500 = 160, 135, or 195 (3 or 5 ea starting) -- I'd be most inclined to do 160 and use 5, but not plan on many color up chips. I would go with 3 each if I were trying to save some money because 3 is very playable, though 5 is a little better. Neither one affects the number higher value denoms, so it's 60 chips more.
  • T1000 = 280 (6 or 7 ea starting) -- These will be your primary color up chips for smaller denoms.
  • T5000 = 150 (0 to 3 ea starting) -- Not needed to start with a 10K starting stack, but allows 3 re-buys per player at that level. Also allows you up to 40K starting stacks, and anything in between.
  • T25000 = 120 (0 starting) -- Allows a lot of flexibility and coloring up starting with the 1000s for late in the tournament. Also allows T100000 starting stacks -- good for an all day (12 hour) tournament).
Total = 1460 chips. I'd add 5-10 extras per denom. To be OCD compliant (love that line BG!), you may have to go to 1600 if your OCD requires even numbers of barrels and even numbers of racks. Or you use 4x25 boxes like I do and must have them in 25s instead of 20s and full boxes.

You can do it with fewer chips, but if that's what you want, decrease the smaller chips and increase the larger chips. For example, instead of 450 T100s, only go with 300 and plan to color up using higher chip values. I'm much more inclined to use more higher value chips because they create flexibility for future changes. I even have T100,000 chips in my tournament sets, designed for up to 40 players.

BG said you could use 40% average blind increases and play a long time. He's right. We use an average increase of between 1.55x to 1.6x increases. That requires higher values and deeper stacks to do the same thing as 1.40x, but is just as playable. He and I both like steady increases, and so do players, even if they can't express why.

There are 5 factors that determine the length of your tournament. Alter one and you alter the tournament time. The 5 factors, in no particular order, are:
  1. Starting stacks in BB -- A tournament is deep stacked if over 150, very short stacked at 100. A player is considered to be competitive at 50 BB, short stacked at 30 BB, seriously short stacked at 20 BB, and desperately short stacked at 10 BB. By itself, this is a good guide, but this is somewhat in a vacuum. You have to look at the average blind increases too.
  2. Average blind increases -- How rapidly blinds go up (most increases should be 1.33-1.6 – 2.0 or higher is considered too high).
  3. Length of rounds -- 1 hour or more is considered slow; 30 minutes about average, 15 or less very fast, and under 10, lightning fast. The average hand is about 2 minutes, so anything less than 2 minutes per player at maximum players per table is probably too fast as it doesn’t give every player a chance at every position every round.
  4. Number of players
  5. Total chips in tournament -- There are two different formulas to determine how long a tournament will last. One is when Antes (A), Small Blind (S), and Big Blind (B) added together equals 5% of the total amount of chips in play (T), the tournament will end. This is expressed in several ways, but one is A+S+B = T*.05. A second formula is when B equals 5%, expressed as B=T*.05.
Tournament structure is primarily science, but there is some art to it. It gets more difficult to calculate length when one factors I unknown. Allowing re-buys alters the total chips in the tournament. You can make intelligent guesses, especially if re-buys are limited to a certain number per player, a time, or both. How much those re-buys are in BB when they are allowed may or may not lengthen the tournament by much.

When I buy a chip set, I look at structures that involve average increases from 1.25x to 2.0x blind increases; one table more than I think I'll likely have in case my chips are used outside my own house; and very deep stacked tournaments because I've learned players like that.

Perception counts a lot, but it's also funny. I used to have a 200 BB starting stack. Another local game had 300 BB starting stack. Though my freeze-outstructure was much better, players felt like they got more for their money at that game. That game also allowed one re-buy or add-on. If you never felted until the break, that same 300 BB to start was only a 15 BB add-on starting at the 6th round. Somehow some players thought they really got 600 BB in that game, but at most it was 315 BB. So I changed my structure to 500 BB in the starting stack. Mine was still a freeze out, but almost everyone saw mine as better.

Perception is funny.
  • I discovered that I could add more chips, alter the starting blinds, have fewer BB in the starting stack, but because players got more chips, they think it's better.
  • Though we try to use 50-67% increases in blinds every time, I double the first time. I don't really like it, but players complained the game was too slow when I started with a 50% increase. Talk about silly... Anyway, I just added to the starting stack to make up for that one 2x bump.
  • A surprising number of players, at least to me, don't like re-buys. I'm more of a "get their money in the prize pool" type. Re-buys are to me better for players who don't re-buy. As best I can tell, there are 2 reasons cited. They [1] don't like not knowing how much they could lose, or a double buy-in is too much for them, or [2] they don't like having to knock someone out twice. I don't personally have enough data to support my theory that players who re-buy don't do as well in tournaments when they re-buy as when they don't, and not because they re-buy.
BG doesn't like the first round doubling. I agree with him, but he understands something most players don't. To keep the "customers" happy, I made an adjustment that doesn't alter the outcome of my tournament.

The answer on this board is always more chips.... ;)


Thumbs up for your effort(y) :thumbsup:
 
Length of rounds -- 1 hour or more is considered slow; 30 minutes about average, 15 or less very fast, and under 10, lightning fast. The average hand is about 2 minutes, so anything less
I'd like to play where you're playing. In the casinos and card rooms near me, the vast majority are 12 minutes to 20 minutes. It's pretty difficult to find something at 30 minutes and more than that is pretty much unheard of.
 
Yeah, I'd say that 20 minute levels are the average, with most falling into the 15- to 30-minute range (towards the lower end of that for casinos; higher end for home games). Blind level times in excess of 30 minutes are almost unheard of, except in very large high-dollar events.
 
UpnDown, I don't play in casinos and hardly ever play in bar leagues. I play mostly in homes where 15-30 is common. My game uses 20. We used to use 30.

The information I posted regarding round links isn't mine though but from a book written by a guy named Snyder. I've not read the book, but liked his formulas for evaluating tournaments. I use that to evaluate tournaments.

One thing (among many) I like about home tournaments is the ability to create a good tournament structure without your "profit" disappearing, or having to close at a certain time and have the tournament end before that.
 
One thing (among many) I like about home tournaments is the ability to create a good tournament structure without your "profit" disappearing, or having to close at a certain time and have the tournament end before that.
Sounds great to me. Unfortunately if that exists around me, I haven't found it yet. All the home games and underground games I've come across are cash games.
 
Is starting your own a possibility? I know when you are looking for a game, they can seem really hard to find.

If starting your own is a possibility, I've found others that have similar issues. I played in a bar league long after I starting really disliking it so I could recruit some additional players. Now I have some of those I recruited are recruiting those venues for my game, though it's not as fast as if I went. But at least I don't have to spend money buying bad food and playing in a format I hate.

Most of my players though I met at either other home games, or we started a home game together.

When I've spotted a player I think might be interested, I find out if they are interested. If so, I'll ask something like this, "If we got a game going, what would you do different about it (than what is being done at the venue where we are)?" I then modified our game to meet as many of those things they brought up as possible, but I never criticized the other game. No game is perfect for everyone. Some I found just don't like anything I like. One guy I remember just wants a luck fest followed by a cash game with even worse structure than the tournaments he likes. I didn't pursue that because he would never be happy in a game I'm hosting. But I found others, and am always looking for more. ABR -- Always Be Recruiting!

As for casinos, I can't offer any real suggestions. If you could identify players, a similar approach might work, and casino might be easier because there are places you can talk that don't always exist in another home game venue.
 
Acquired a second set of the FPT6 chips. Here is the combined lot:
fpt6 1.jpg


for a breakdown of

350 x T25
425 x T100
330 x T500
290 x T1000
155 x T5000
20 x T25000

I can add another 1000 T25Ks, after which, going by the responses above, should be plenty! (Will also have some custom dealer buttons made.)

Thanks everyone!
 

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