Messing around with Inkscape (1 Viewer)

[TheOffalo]

How did you do the edge marks? all of the tutorials that I found for that type of measuring was for illustrator.

I explain how I did it in Inkscape here:

Looks like a lot of the stripes are starting at the top of the chip (12 o'clock) but I definitely see examples where it seems to start elsewhere on the chip.

Below is what I did to build my edge stripes in Inkscape, for the 4-moon chip above. I could have probably just used simple math to calculate the edge length of one moon, multiple by 4, subtract from 122.522mm (circumference for 39mm chip), then take the remaining amount and divide that by 4, and then space them out evenly. But I've applied a "Roughen" path effect to some of the shapes, so the elements may vary (probably by less than 1mm), so this is (I think) a more precise but more time consuming method...

Use the Measure tool in Inkscape to find the chord length between two points:

Plug the chord length (18.86mm) into this calculator to get the length of the arc (19.6853mm)

Since I'm starting at the top of the chip, I divide the arc length by 2 and get 9.842mm. So I create a 9.842mm x 3.5mm rectangle in the brown.

Then I use the Measure tool again to measure the chord length first green moon, which is 10.75mm:

I use the above calculator to figure out the arc length, which is 10.891mm. I create a green rectangle with that width and a height of 3.5mm and grouped it with the brown rectangle. I repeat the process for each segment and added the final half brown stripe at the end.

When I added it all together it was ~122.2mm, which is a little shorter than the 122.522mm circumference for a 39mm circle, so I increased the width of the stripe to match. I added some effects to the edge stripe to make it seem more authentic, like I've seen others do:

Edit: Just read more about split spots and since the tri-moons are green, then that's the color that'd get squeezed:

Maybe for the quarter pies I'll cheat and just take 122.522 and divide by 4 and make the stripe that way. When we're talking tenths of millimeters I'm not sure if my above method is worth the time. Imaging doing this for bear claws...

Dunno if this is the best or correct way, but it works for me.

I have changed the process a little in that I start at the bottom center and go clockwise. That way the tiny bit of overlapping ink that may occur when the stripe meets itself is at the bottom of the chip when you’re holding/stacking it with the design upright to you.

 

[QuailValley]

I explain how I did it in Inkscape here:


Dunno if this is the best or correct way, but it works for me.

I have changed the process a little in that I start at the bottom center and go clockwise. That way the tiny bit of overlapping ink that may occur when the stripe meets itself is at the bottom of the chip when you’re holding/stacking it with the design upright to you.

This is amazing. Exactly what I needed. I was having some issues with some of the bosco templates as some of the designs aren’t fully represented.

I had only seen this how to for illustrator with some specific illustrator tools. So this closes the knowledge gaps I had. I may actually dust off my files and try and finish the set that I worked on and gave up. Thanks!

 

[TheOffalo]

This is amazing. Exactly what I needed. I was having some issues with some of the bosco templates as some of the designs aren’t fully represented.

I had only seen this how to for illustrator with some specific illustrator tools. So this closes the knowledge gaps I had. I may actually dust off my files and try and finish the set that I worked on and gave up. Thanks!

Glad this helps! Like I said, not sure if this is the best way.

Also, realized I made a mistake. I mentioned changing the process; I now start from bottom center and go counter-clockwise, not clockwise as I said above.

If you have symmetrical edge spots it doesn't really matter, but for the Flamingo example above, the direction the stripe goes matters since the orange and yellow has to line up.

This Flamingo design actually has different front/back so I specify that the edge stripe starts at the bottom center of the "front" chip:

Note if you have non-symmetrical edge spots (with identical "inlay" design on each side for the center), then I believe Tina will do the work to flip the design you provided so the edge spots line up for the "back" side while keeping the inlay correct.

 

[QuailValley]

Glad this helps! Like I said, not sure if this is the best way.

Also, realized I made a mistake. I mentioned changing the process; I now start from bottom center and go counter-clockwise, not clockwise as I said above.



View attachment 1096812

If you have symmetrical edge spots it doesn't really matter, but for the Flamingo example above, the direction the stripe goes matters since the orange and yellow has to line up.

This Flamingo design actually has different front/back so I specify that the edge stripe starts at the bottom center of the "front" chip:

View attachment 1096813

Note if you have non-symmetrical edge spots (with identical "inlay" design on each side for the center), then I believe Tina will do the work to flip the design you provided so the edge spots line up for the "back" side while keeping the inlay correct.

Awesome, I think mine are symetric so it will make the process a bit easier.

 

[BigSlickTux]

Okay, who has tips for roughening the edges of edge spots. I’ve watched tutorials for Inkscape and I do know where the “roughen” tab is located. My issue is it messes the spot up very badly. Not what I want at all. I just want to mimic clay edge spots.

 

[Colquhoun]

Okay, who has tips for roughening the edges of edge spots. I’ve watched tutorials for Inkscape and I do know where the “roughen” tab is located. My issue is it messes the spot up very badly. Not what I want at all. I just want to mimic clay edge spots.

I use illustrator, but each jagged spot is lovingly created by hand. Each and every one.
I initially make the spots squared off, then go in with the pencil tool and give them some jaggies. The rolling edges are done to look like slightly squished spots.

 

[BigSlickTux]

I use illustrator, but each jagged spot is lovingly created by hand. Each and every one.
I initially make the spots squared off, then go in with the pencil tool and give them some jaggies. The rolling edges are done to look like slightly squished spots.

Thanks, I was afraid of something like this. Oh well, it will just mean more love gets put in the chips. Lol.

 

[BigSlickTux]

Colors. That is what I am trying to wrap my head around. I understand that printers print CMYK and that Tina uses Pantone. I have seen multiple great resources on PCF, such as a chart listing all Pantone colors. How does one know which Pantone colors match the closest to certain Paulson colors. That is what I am struggling with. I get people will say order samples, but that doesn’t make sense to wait 4-5 months just for samples to arrive from China. Who has had success with making Tina chips in the color spectrum of Aurora and Empress Star colors? What Pantone colors were used exactly? As always, thanks for the help.

 

[Colquhoun]

Tina doesn’t print with Pantone colors, it’s still CMYK…but she asks that to you use a Pantone color match in CMYK. It is kind of silly, because in the end, the colors dont always match anyway.
I open the Pantone swatch guide in illustrator and choose the CMYK equivalent. I try to stay away from pastel and washed-out colors, go for saturated and vivid colors, they translate best.

Sadly, it still is a very inexact process, with enormous time between making a change and seeing the result.

 

[BigSlickTux]

Can anyone tell me what Pantone colors off of the chart on this thread, https://www.pokerchipforum.com/thre...for-tina-anita-cards-mold.81302/#post-1739226 correspond with the following Paulson colors? I understand that it’s not perfect. I just want it as close as possible.

Tan
Lime Green
Plum
Cherry
Arc Yellow
Off White
Yellow
Blurple
Orchid
Blue Grain
Sherbet Green
Carrot
Indian Blue
Charcoal
Hot Pink
Hawaii Flower
Blaze Orange
Dark Blue
Day Blue
Canary Yellow
Day Green

So when I use the dropper in Inkscape to grab these colors from the chart it will make it in RGB. I then have to use another program to convert it to CMYK, which I believe makes it a PDF. Any issues sending that to Tina?

Thanks again for the help in my understanding.

 

[Colquhoun]

Can anyone tell me what Pantone colors off of the chart on this thread, https://www.pokerchipforum.com/thre...for-tina-anita-cards-mold.81302/#post-1739226 correspond with the following Paulson colors? I understand that it’s not perfect. I just want it as close as possible.

Tan
Lime Green
Plum
Cherry
Arc Yellow
Off White
Yellow
Blurple
Orchid
Blue Grain
Sherbet Green
Carrot
Indian Blue
Charcoal
Hot Pink
Hawaii Flower
Blaze Orange
Dark Blue
Day Blue
Canary Yellow
Day Green

So when I use the dropper in Inkscape to grab these colors from the chart it will make it in RGB. I then have to use another program to convert it to CMYK, which I believe makes it a PDF. Any issues sending that to Tina?

Thanks again for the help in my understanding.

Instead of doing it that way, there is a thread with all the CMYK equivalents for Paulson colors. While there’s no way for it to be perfect, it’s likely better than trial and error.
In the last link of that 1st post, a Google spreadsheet showing Paulson colors and their CMYK, Hex, etc equivalents:
https://www.pokerchipforum.com/thre...bonus-card-mold-color-wheel-cmyk-codes.76046/

 

[BigSlickTux]

Instead of doing it that way, there is a thread with all the CMYK equivalents for Paulson colors. While there’s no way for it to be perfect, it’s likely better than trial and error.
In the last link of that 1st post, a Google spreadsheet showing Paulson colors and their CMYK, Hex, etc equivalents:
https://www.pokerchipforum.com/thre...bonus-card-mold-color-wheel-cmyk-codes.76046/

Thanks I’ll check it out. What is Hex? Do you think the “CMYK equivalents” will be accepted by Tina if I didn’t find it off of that chart of Pantone?

 

[BigSlickTux]

Does anyone out there have real world experience using that spreadsheet of CMYK to Paulson colors? Were the results good? Any pictures?

 

[Colquhoun]

Thanks I’ll check it out. What is Hex? Do you think the “CMYK equivalents” will be accepted by Tina if I didn’t find it off of that chart of Pantone?

Hex is an RGB value for web colors. Not appropriate here, but could be used if you only have that code to go by.
Tina will print anything you give her. Her team may even change the value, for whatever reason.

Pantone is a universal system, and the equivalent in CMYK is just so all parties are basically looking at the same color. When in doubt, match one of the pantones, but in the end, getting samples (at least photos) of the printed chips will be the only way to really know.

Also when picking colors, better to go with distinct colors (red, pink, blue, yellow,etc). If you choose something a bit more vague like a yellowy-green, it may print more yellow or more green than you had anticipated.

 

[facinfears217]

I'm waiting for some designs that are part of a GB to be made, but I designed a set for @Dane which he ordered through a German company which apparently has chips made by Anita (a Tina competitor). I think they are a little darker than my original mockups, but I liked how they turned out:

Photos courtesy of @Dane

Now if we could just get Paulsons made from Tina at ceramic prices we’d be set

 

[BigSlickTux]

Now if we could just get Paulsons made from Tina at ceramic prices we’d be set

Or…Paulsons at Tina prices. Now that’s heaven.