Help for a Complete Novice Designer - Pinnacle Poker Club Tournament Set (1 Viewer)

CSW

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Hi, everyone! New member here. Designing my first custom set (with no graphic design background and very limited time as a fan/observer of chips), and could use any feedback you have.

The inlay is a very first cut at a logo/design for our room, the Pinnacle Poker Club (a reference to where I live). My brother-in-law is a graphic designer, and I was hoping to get his help, but he has been swamped with work, so I may have to go it alone. Anyway, I know that there is a lot of work (or maybe a complete overhaul) to be done there, but I’d still appreciate any thoughts you have.

My original thought was to get these hot stamped in the style of the Atlantic Club set that CPC has. I had thought that I could just replace the name of the club and leave everything else in the stamp the same. But if I understand CPC’s hot-stamp pricing correctly, that would require me to pay for five custom dies, one for each chip, as opposed to just a custom die for the new name. If that is the case, I’d rather save the ~$750 of die costs and spend some of that on nicer edge spot designs. Hence the amateur attempt at a custom logo inlay.

In any event, I like the idea of a bright colored set like the Atlantic club, but with some edge spots. I also like the idea of a charcoal chip instead of the more standard black T100. (And, as an aside, the T100 chip is a nod to our wedding colors, which would be fun for me). And I liked the idea of the colors of the set flowing, with the edge spots of each chip being the same as the base color of the previous chip. Not sure if that is a good idea or bad idea from a design perspective, but that is what I was going for. All thoughts and critiques welcome.

So, that is what I’ve got for now. Looking forward to your feedback.

Thanks in advance for your time!
Chris

P.S. If I have done anything wrong, inefficient, or unhelpful in the format of the post or screenshot from CPC, let me know and I’ll update the post. Thanks!
 

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nice start, but my first thought is significant potential for dirty stacks with how you have the colors progressing - in particular that's a lot of retro lavender across the 500 and 1000, and a lot of charcoal overall.
 
Take your time. Don't rush things. The average person here probably takes at least 6 months to get something solid on paper, and usually about a year between paying your deposit and getting a shipping notice, which means more time to tweak things.
 
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Step 1: Upload photos using the photo icon, not as files, so they appear in full and not as an attachment. Makes it easier for viewers, meaning you’re likely to get more eyes and comments when it’s easy to see your work.

Step 2: Get samples.

Step 3: Peruse the Chip DB, the ChipGuide, and various threads here showing off some great designs. I recommend you just explore and see what speaks to you- colors, spots, inlay elements. Some great stuff that can really help inspire. Take note of what you like and don’t like.

Step 4: iterate, iterate, iterate.

Step 5: BUY! :)
 
There are several members that can help you with the label, you provide guidance on what you like and don't like, they do all of the technical things, things you don't really think about.

Next you want to look at a crap load of chips, and you need to identify the things you don't like, and the things you do.

You should learn the basics of color standards, guidelines, such as you ought not use white base outside of 1s or 100s. Try not to use the same color inserts as the base of another chip.

And the most important is this, no matter how many people tell you the best way, or color, if you can't live with it, it's not for you.

What is insert progression? Wtf is teamblackdollar? Do I have to have the same label color on both sides? What are some of the best sets on PCF?

Welcome to the abyss!
 
I really like your spot pattern progression, simple and elegant. Not a very big fan of the re-use of colors idea though. Dirty stacks could be a problem and also I like the challange of designing chips that share colors as little as possible but still work great together as a set.

I think there are better spot colors than the charcoal if you want a bright and colorful set. Definitely get a color sample set and take your time with it. I would recommend getting help with the inlays from a designer here. Yours look alright but kinda cheapish. Not trying to be a dick, I suck at design and would not be able to do anything like the ones you have, but you’ll be spending a lot of money on these and you’ll want them to be as nice as they possibly can be.

Keep posting iterations to get suggestions and ideas. But obviously, mostly listen to yourself. They’re gonna be your babies and you’re the one that needs to be 100% happy with them.

Best of luck!
 
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Thanks everyone for the quick and helpful feedback. I’ve reposted the set here in the proper format (though based on the feedback here, I may decide to scrap this set and try again :)).

I do have the samples, which are super helpful. I had not seen the Chip DB before, so thanks for pointing me in that direction. Lots of pretty cool sets in there. The Chip Guide site is a bit overwhelming and not particularly easy to navigate, but I appreciate the tip on that as well.

I have a couple of specific questions that I’ll post as replies to individual comments, mostly about inlays. Other than that, I’ll be back with my next effort!

Really appreciate the community here. Thanks again!
Chris
 
There are several members that can help you with the label, you provide guidance on what you like and don't like, they do all of the technical things, things you don't really think about.

Next you want to look at a crap load of chips, and you need to identify the things you don't like, and the things you do.

You should learn the basics of color standards, guidelines, such as you ought not use white base outside of 1s or 100s. Try not to use the same color inserts as the base of another chip.

And the most important is this, no matter how many people tell you the best way, or color, if you can't live with it, it's not for you.

What is insert progression? Wtf is teamblackdollar? Do I have to have the same label color on both sides? What are some of the best sets on PCF?

Welcome to the abyss!
Thanks, DeusEx! Three quick questions:

(1) What is the best way to find someone to help with inlay design?

(2) Any idea of how much it costs to have someone help with the design (I’m sure it varies from person to person, but a general range would be helpful for me as I am budgeting for the set and deciding whether to splurge for design help).

(3) Is there an article/thread or two that would be helpful for me to get the lay of the land on the basics that you mention (color standards, guidelines, spot progressions, etc.)? Or do I just pick that up by looking at loads of different designs and threads?

Thanks again for the feedback. I really appreciate it.
 
I really like your spot pattern progression, simple and elegant. Not a very big fan of the re-use of colors idea though. Dirty stacks could be a problem and also I like the challange of designing chips that share colors as little as possible but still work great together as a set.

I think there are better spot colors than the charcoal if you want a bright and colorful set. Definitely get a color sample set and take your time with it. I would recommend getting help with the inlays from a designer here. Yours look alright but kinda cheapish. Not trying to be a dick, I suck at design and would not be able to do anything like the ones you have, but you’ll be spending a lot of money on these and you’ll want them to be as nice as they possibly can be.

Keep posting iterations to get suggestions and ideas. But obviously, mostly listen to yourself. They’re gonna be your babies and you’re the one that needs to be 100% happy with them.

Best of luck!
Hi, Eriks! Thanks for the kind words on the spot progression, and the feedback on the inlays. I definitely agree that what I was able to put together is pretty amateurish. As I asked DeusEx, any guidance you have on how to best find someone to help with inlay design would be greatly appreciated.
 
I do have the samples, which are super helpful. I had not seen the Chip DB before, so thanks for pointing me in that direction. Lots of pretty cool sets in there. The Chip Guide site is a bit overwhelming and not particularly easy to navigate, but I appreciate the tip on that as well.

Score on posting the photo- much better!

On the Chip Guide- yeah, there’s a lot. The general search function is great. You can narrow by color, mold type, location, color, year, casino status.

So if you’re looking for lavender vintage options, you could do this. You could even select a mold to narrow it down. Set the items per page to 200, and you can skim faster. Only 4 pages here. You’ll miss the few historical casinos that have remained open (Golden Nugget), but it’s a quick start.

9399966B-EA32-4A74-9D17-359501A49B78.png
 
Thanks, DeusEx! Three quick questions:

(1) What is the best way to find someone to help with inlay design?

(2) Any idea of how much it costs to have someone help with the design (I’m sure it varies from person to person, but a general range would be helpful for me as I am budgeting for the set and deciding whether to splurge for design help).

(3) Is there an article/thread or two that would be helpful for me to get the lay of the land on the basics that you mention (color standards, guidelines, spot progressions, etc.)? Or do I just pick that up by looking at loads of different designs and threads?

Thanks again for the feedback. I really appreciate it.
1) Yes
2) You can always use the search tool top right of the page.
It varies, I've asked for help on a design and paid 25 - 40 bucks sometimes people pay up to 400 bucks. Depends on a few things, revisions how much it changes or evolves. Most will discuss it with you up front. I find not being Bridezilla is helpful =)
3) Yes, and yes ;)

You're looking for someone that understands the size of a label and what can fit without it looking distorted or over whelmed. YOU also need to understand those types of factors, again why you should browse the Media and Hall of fame RESOURCES that can be found top of the page.

Here are some of my Favs:

9f90b7ae-1e9f-48e0-a65c-3c9e61b25b4d.png

This is one of my Mocks and it was done by one of the MOST Prestigious Designers EVAH!
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Here is another good example I like

1659801874722.png

@72o
 
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I do not recommend repeating any colour between base and edge spot within 1 denom of each other. Preferably not even within 2 denoms of each other. Less potential for dirty stacks.
 

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