Heads-up table from scraps (1 Viewer)

10centguitar

Two Pair
Joined
Sep 11, 2014
Messages
394
Reaction score
220
Location
Texas
table rail foam.jpg
table felt.jpg
table pre vinyl.jpg
vinyl.jpg
Thought I would post some pics of a little heads-up table Im messing with.


The vinyl and felt are the only things I purchased.

The 1'' HD foam the and 1/4 under felt closed-cell foam were scraps,
Thanks to Mike at Texas Poker Supply in Austin for the scrap material.

Trying to figure out a leg situation. Table is fitted with T nuts for a base. The rails are attached by bolts into t-nuts.

The rail vinyl (creases) have been cleaned up quite a bit since these photos. *buy a pneumatic stapler! lol
Also the circles at the ends of the rails....yeah very hard to upholster well with the bargain buy one-way stretch vinyl i got. But eh....live and learn. I think the felt (plush suede) was $3 a yard and the vinyl was $3.50 lol.



I made this with an opening for a dealer to deal the game. Thought it would be neat to have at our game when one dealer is off for an hour and people waiting to sit at the cash game could play a HU tourney.

People would get to play and the dealer could make a little extra.

Anyhow the pedestal shown pre-felt is a old pool table leg. (someone gave me a set) its too short but i have been setting the table top on it for now. The wooden x legs are from my brother in laws office desk he is building.
 
table side.jpg
table cards spread.jpg
table above.jpg
table hand delt.jpg
here are some more, getting there.

put the pedestal on, little crooked in the pic, been fixed.

I am planning on making a box-like base with crown molding, that the bottom of the pedestal sits in.

The white spot on the left-rail vinyl is from a hole a accidentally poked in it, and put super glue on, (dont do this, it turns white lol)
paint marker should cover it ok.


Couldnt resist putting out some chips and cards.
I really like plush suede as far as texture goes, but i hate that it carpets. Like is dark or light depending on which way its brushed.

All in all i think i spent $20 on this little table.

Sorry for the bad Iphone pics.
 
Last edited:
Nice table. I've often thought of doing the same with my mountains of scrap ply. Interesting idea splitting the rail into 2 halves.

Can't see the last attached pics, I get errors.
 
Thanks,
it is a great way to experiment with different shapes.

ok it should be fixed

I wish i would have made templates, so i could "mass produce" like 4 of them. lol. Would be awesome for a 32 player, 2 day event. (16 players on day 1 and day 1a) then finish out the next day with cash tables running on the side.

ok it should be fixed
 
Nice table. I've often thought of doing the same with my mountains of scrap ply. Interesting idea splitting the rail into 2 halves.

Can't see the last attached pics, I get errors.


Ok should be fixed.
 
The finished product looks great. I might have rotated the leg myself.

So what area the overall dimensions of the table?
 
Thanks a lot chan. I have to give it up to pokertableforum and many of your threads for ideas. I am building a full 44"X96" 3/4in raised rail full-felt with dealer cutout and chip tray right now based off a thread you did with a raised rail full felt. Working on the edge-banding right now.

This build was done with a jigsaw. lol if you cant tell. Used a router to cutout the big one.


Yeah teeters a bit. Hoping the base I am making for it will help.

Dimensions are 48"x30" the 30" is the thinnest part of the width.
Dealer spots are 22" at the shortest distance. ( middle of the circle ends).

The radius for the dealer cutout was at 7' 6" or 7' flat I think. And the little circles were 3" radius.
4in hard edge rail.

I will try rotating the base 45 degrees. (assuming this is what you mean.) I think that would look nice.

Also thought about making a pedastal base like this one in the pic below (with different dimensions to fit of course), if the pool table leg doesn't work out.


pedestal.jpg
 
every time i see this thread i think it says "heads up for table scraps" and it reminds me of glider looking for ribs at BBotB
 
Ok just rotated the base and bolted it back together.

I like this much better. Looks nicer and is less wobbly. Still needs a base to level it completely and to make it more stable.
image.jpg
image.jpg
 
I think just a sheet of plywood that's an inch or two larger than the base would do it. Screw it into the base from underneath.
 
I think just a sheet of plywood that's an inch or two larger than the base would do it. Screw it into the base from underneath.

x2 or a round piece of similar diameter.

Nice use of scraps :)
 
Looking nice, just curious why you made two dealer positions for this table.

I was only going to make one dealer cutout, then i started thinking about where the table would go, and thought it would have to be against a wall to look nice. So for sheer
symmetry really.

oh right, I forgot lol. Also the HD foam for the rail was not big enough to cover a whole rail.

1, I was figuring the symmetry thing,

and 2, why bother spending time glueing foam scraps together and possibly having hard spots. I know it can be done but I was also lazy.


I have some nice scrap red oak boards that I tried to make trim pieces with to fit in the dealer cutouts, but couldnt get it to fit right. I need a ban-saw.


Definitely a con would be that chips could bounce off the table easier if someone is tossing them into the pot recklessly.
 
Last edited:
x2 or a round piece of similar diameter.

Nice use of scraps :)


Thanks,

yeah im think a piece of ply that is maybe 3-4 inches larger than the base but cant see in my mind how in the world it would look nice.
 
Looking nice, just curious why you made two dealer positions for this table.

The rail opposite the dealer is mostly important to keep cards from getting pitched off... with no player there in a heads-up game, the rail isn't critical. And this allows for nice symmetry.

I think this might also be fun for the heads-up stage of a final table at a tourney...

And it also occurs to me that a club-shaped table might be neat, to allow a three-player game (with a dealer.)
 
The rail opposite the dealer is mostly important to keep cards from getting pitched off... with no player there in a heads-up game, the rail isn't critical. And this allows for nice symmetry.

I think this might also be fun for the heads-up stage of a final table at a tourney...

And it also occurs to me that a club-shaped table might be neat, to allow a three-player game (with a dealer.)

Definitely a good idea for the last two in a tourney. That would free up a table for cash games. (always something hosts and players complain about where im from.)

Never thought about a club shaped table. That would be righteous. I wonder what that rail would look like. (Going to the drawing board lol)
 
Thanks,

yeah im think a piece of ply that is maybe 3-4 inches larger than the base but cant see in my mind how in the world it would look nice.

After looking at it again, here's my suggestion - flip the pedestal base over before adding the plate on the bottom, so it gets skinnier towards the bottom, than add a square or round plate on the bottom as wide as you need to make it stable. Similar to some of the inverted pyramid style bases that some of the larger builders have built over the years, it looks really nice IMHO, and they're very comfortable to play at because you have a lot of leg room. It would look something like this, if you can imagine this as half a table :)

 
After looking at it again, here's my suggestion - flip the pedestal base over before adding the plate on the bottom, so it gets skinnier towards the bottom, than add a square or round plate on the bottom as wide as you need to make it stable. Similar to some of the inverted pyramid style bases that some of the larger builders have built over the years, it looks really nice IMHO, and they're very comfortable to play at because you have a lot of leg room. It would look something like this, if you can imagine this as half a table :)

At first i was planning on doing this. But i felt the eye would be drawn to it, which would be fine if i could find wood/stain to match the hard wood pedestal.
If not it will be a real eye sore if it doesnt match well
 

Create an account or login to comment

You must be a member in order to leave a comment

Create account

Create an account and join our community. It's easy!

Log in

Already have an account? Log in here.

Back
Top Bottom