I was going to post this info as a response to PCF member MoscowRadio's "Baking Inlaid Chips" topic. However, I thought it might be a good idea to create a new *general* topic for tools and techniques to flatten warped chips, i.e. not just baking, and not just inlaid chips.
I'll start this topic with a photo and description of the clamp I use, and the processes I've had success using (some with heat, some without) on both hot-stamped and inlaid chips. I hope others will share their ideas, experiences, and recommendations, too!
Pictured below is a Bessey model LHS10 Poker Chip Clamp:
If you look closely, you'll note that this particular unit was mistakenly labeled "Wood Screw Clamp", which is probably why is was still on the shelf at Home Depot. My experienced eyes immediately recognized it for what it really was - a Poker Chip Clamp - so I snatched it up right away!
As you can see, I put a couple of barrels of chips in the clamp just for perspective prior to taking the photo. The thickness of the wood bars is 40 mm - perfect for 39 mm diameter chips. The space between the two metal screws is 80 mm - perfect to fit two barrels of chips. Unlike ratchet type clamps (including caulk guns), the screws on this clamp allow you to apply pressure smoothly and gradually. Screws also give you CONSISTENT pressure from batch to batch, which is important if you expect to have consistent results!
The other reason I strongly prefer this clamp to others is that the pressure is applied to the chips SQUARELY. The other ratchet type clamps and caulk guns I tried don't quite apply the pressure perpendicular to the chip face, i.e. they're a little cock-eyed.
Also note that I covered the exposed metal screws (between the wood bars) with tape to prevent cutting/scraping the edges of the poker chips. You'll want to do the same.
This clamp works GREAT for flattening poker chips. I highly recommend it.
I'm also fortunate to have a high quality oven with a reasonably accurate thermostat, whose settings go all the way down to 100F. As others have recommended, I separate the warped clay chips with blank ceramic chips in the clamp. In all my work so far, I've flattened 20 clay chips at a time - that's two barrels in the clamps, with each barrel consisting of 10 clay chips sandwiched by 11 ceramic chips. If you try flattening more than 20 clay chips at a time (you CAN fit more in this clamp), you'll likely have to adjust the times that I've listed below (you'll probably need MORE time).
For warped Paulson chips, I typically go 15-20 minutes at 120F. (From experience, I strongly recommend you don't go higher than 130F.) I then remove the clamped chips from the oven and place them on the kitchen counter (NOT in the refrigerator!) to allow them to cool SLOWLY to room temperature. I usually wait about an hour for cooling. Gently tightening the screws during the cooling process is often necessary for best results, as the chips contract while they cool, and you want to maintain pressure on the chips to ensure that they cool FLAT. This process has consistently worked amazingly well for me on both hot-stamped and inlaid chips.
For warped ASM chips, don't even put them in the oven. Really. Just clamp them and leave them overnight. ASM chips are like Play-Doh compared to Paulsons. I found that if you use any heat at all on an ASM chips for even 15 minutes, the chips become squashed, and the chip faces suffer minor damage (flattening of cross hatching, etc.). I've had limited success flattening warped ASM chips by clamping overnight. The lightly warped chips and spinners tend to come out pretty good, but some of the really badly warped chips never get flat enough for me. Your mileage may vary.
One thing I'd like to do to make this process a little easier next time is to order some 40 mm diameter ceramic blanks. When you use standard 39 mm blanks, you have to be very careful to get the ceramics and clays aligned perfectly so that you apply pressure evenly over the entire face of the clay chips.
Good luck! I hope that helps. And as others have warned, be sure to test your process on old chips that you don't care too much about!
I'll start this topic with a photo and description of the clamp I use, and the processes I've had success using (some with heat, some without) on both hot-stamped and inlaid chips. I hope others will share their ideas, experiences, and recommendations, too!
Pictured below is a Bessey model LHS10 Poker Chip Clamp:
If you look closely, you'll note that this particular unit was mistakenly labeled "Wood Screw Clamp", which is probably why is was still on the shelf at Home Depot. My experienced eyes immediately recognized it for what it really was - a Poker Chip Clamp - so I snatched it up right away!
As you can see, I put a couple of barrels of chips in the clamp just for perspective prior to taking the photo. The thickness of the wood bars is 40 mm - perfect for 39 mm diameter chips. The space between the two metal screws is 80 mm - perfect to fit two barrels of chips. Unlike ratchet type clamps (including caulk guns), the screws on this clamp allow you to apply pressure smoothly and gradually. Screws also give you CONSISTENT pressure from batch to batch, which is important if you expect to have consistent results!
The other reason I strongly prefer this clamp to others is that the pressure is applied to the chips SQUARELY. The other ratchet type clamps and caulk guns I tried don't quite apply the pressure perpendicular to the chip face, i.e. they're a little cock-eyed.
Also note that I covered the exposed metal screws (between the wood bars) with tape to prevent cutting/scraping the edges of the poker chips. You'll want to do the same.
This clamp works GREAT for flattening poker chips. I highly recommend it.
I'm also fortunate to have a high quality oven with a reasonably accurate thermostat, whose settings go all the way down to 100F. As others have recommended, I separate the warped clay chips with blank ceramic chips in the clamp. In all my work so far, I've flattened 20 clay chips at a time - that's two barrels in the clamps, with each barrel consisting of 10 clay chips sandwiched by 11 ceramic chips. If you try flattening more than 20 clay chips at a time (you CAN fit more in this clamp), you'll likely have to adjust the times that I've listed below (you'll probably need MORE time).
For warped Paulson chips, I typically go 15-20 minutes at 120F. (From experience, I strongly recommend you don't go higher than 130F.) I then remove the clamped chips from the oven and place them on the kitchen counter (NOT in the refrigerator!) to allow them to cool SLOWLY to room temperature. I usually wait about an hour for cooling. Gently tightening the screws during the cooling process is often necessary for best results, as the chips contract while they cool, and you want to maintain pressure on the chips to ensure that they cool FLAT. This process has consistently worked amazingly well for me on both hot-stamped and inlaid chips.
For warped ASM chips, don't even put them in the oven. Really. Just clamp them and leave them overnight. ASM chips are like Play-Doh compared to Paulsons. I found that if you use any heat at all on an ASM chips for even 15 minutes, the chips become squashed, and the chip faces suffer minor damage (flattening of cross hatching, etc.). I've had limited success flattening warped ASM chips by clamping overnight. The lightly warped chips and spinners tend to come out pretty good, but some of the really badly warped chips never get flat enough for me. Your mileage may vary.
One thing I'd like to do to make this process a little easier next time is to order some 40 mm diameter ceramic blanks. When you use standard 39 mm blanks, you have to be very careful to get the ceramics and clays aligned perfectly so that you apply pressure evenly over the entire face of the clay chips.
Good luck! I hope that helps. And as others have warned, be sure to test your process on old chips that you don't care too much about!
: See if he points me to the correct area.
