Some more thoughts, some new results regarding chip colors and spot progression! Note: Due to wild experimenting, the labels are incorrect here for the grey and the DG blue chip. Colors on the labels need adjustment too...
Replaced 20c chip with a new grey chip. I probably would've preferred white, but I don't want to pay the additional fee for bright white and I had some samples where the brass flakes on the edges oxidised and turned green, so I probably don't want to risk that. Any experiences here?
made the DG blue chip 20€ and the yellow one 5€
made one pair of blurple spots dark green on the DG blue chip
Toyed around some more, got a followup question: Do you think retro blue and (regular) green on the fourth chip (denoted 25, still haven't gotten around to put in some more work for the inlays ) would be to risky regarding dirty stacks? I have the feeling it might just be enough, but I figured I'd rather tap a bit more into the vast knowledge of this community
In general, I would like to keep the green/bright white edge spots, but I can imagine opting for regular blue, DG peacock or imperial blue on the body color for this chip. Probably in that order - imperial blue might just be too greenish for green edge spots and DG blue might just be a tad too bright for my liking...
^^^ This. Retro blue is pretty dark when seen in person vs. the designer. If you have a well lit room you are going to be using these in, it might be OK, but I'd be careful. The spots might be the only thing that helps tell these apart on the table.
Kind of what I've feared - thanks for the feedback. So I guess I'll just use regular blue there... And finally start with the inlay changes (background tesselation, bright and dark variants and size adjustments) Seems I've still got quite a bit of this journey ahead of me
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