CPC Color Chart help (1 Viewer)

[manamongkids]

Long story short. I just received my CPC color samples and I am having a hard time figuring out which color is which. I am referring to the online CPC color chart but the purples, reds, and yellows are the most difficult to decipher. These pictures are not great, but I can re-upload if need be. I have attempted to sort them in the same manner that CPC has them listed.

PLEASE correct me if you think I am wrong or if there is a better place to reference, please advise. I searched both CT and PCF for a CPC color sample thread and was unable to find one.





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[manamongkids]

 

[slisk250]

David sent me the sequence in an email that explained the order as they were in those pouches. If you knew what spots they were in, then the issue is solved...however that is not the case. Because of lighting, It appears to me that several are wrong. They could also be correct, light changes things that much. Put them in the best order you can and take a photo without flash. Use natural light or in a big room with florescent light on a white background. I bet many can ID them under those conditions. The easiest way to separate weighted and non weighted is looking for the brass on the edges.

 

[manamongkids]

i was hoping (more like praying) someone had some reference pictures to look at. the chocolate ones I know are correct and look orange in my pics

only have an iphone for pics so i will have to wait until tomorrow for better natural light pics

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or could someone rank the purples, reds, yellows in order from lightest to darkest, might be easier to figure out that way

 

[slisk250]

I'll get pics up soon if nobody beats me too it.

 

[stocky]

All your pics look to bright for me to tell

Easy way to tell dayglow colors is there are no brass flecks on the edges, I would start by sorting out the dayglow chips. The rest should come easier.

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Your yellow look right.

Cant comment on the purples because of pics, unless CPC has changed all formulas compared to my ASM samples drastically, your retro lavender looks pink to me, your lavender chip looks like my retro lavender...

 

[manamongkids]

ok, you make an excellent point on the brass flakes. splitting them up

trying to sort these easily

which one is brighter? dayglo saturn or dayglo yellow?

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All your pics look to bright for me to tell

Easy way to tell dayglow colors is there are no brass flecks on the edges, I would start by sorting out the dayglow chips. The rest should come easier.

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Your yellow look right.

Cant comment on the purples because of pics, unless CPC has changed all formulas compared to my ASM samples drastically, your retro lavender looks pink to me, your lavender chip looks like my retro lavender...

I am looking at the retro lavender and it does not have any brass flakes, the only other one with no brass flakes looks to be dayglo pink which looks more pink

 

[stocky]

Saturn is brighter and deeper yellow. Dg yellow is lighter.

 

[manamongkids]

There are only 2 pinks,

dayglow pink has no flakes?
new pink has brass flakes?

Is this correct?

 

[stocky]

Yellows. Dg yellow. Saturn. Canary. Yellow.

Greens. Dg green. Light green. Green.

Purples. Retro lavender. Lavender. Purple. Blurple.

Oranges. Arc Yellow. Dg peach. Orange. Dg orange.


Hope this helps.

yes only two pinks.

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Also. Retro red - no flakes. Man Red is lighter than red.

Reds are hard to take pics of in my dining room.

 

[manamongkids]

getting there slowly but surely,

I have 12 left to label.

The gray looks like it has a blue tint to it, is that correct?

And charcoal is significantly darker than gray?

 

[stocky]

Yeah. My grey has the same tint/look

 

[manamongkids]

Still trying to figure out the reds

the brightest red is retro red which has no brass flakes

manderin red is the next brightest

red is the darkest one?

can you confirm

 

[stocky]

Yes that's what I have

 

[Mesnik44]

Hey guys!

First off, thank you for all of your hard work in sorting out the colours. I am ready to pull the trigger on a fairly large order from CPC using the scroll mold.

Can one of you please answer these questions for me?

What is the brightest green?
What is the brightest pink?
What is the brightest yellow?
What is the brightest orange?
What is the brightest blue?
If the brightest blue is the Imperial blue, what is the darkest blue?

 

[stocky]

My opinions in red

Hey guys!

First off, thank you for all of your hard work in sorting out the colours. I am ready to pull the trigger on a fairly large order from CPC using the scroll mold.

Can one of you please answer these questions for me?

What is the brightest green? dg green
What is the brightest pink? dg pink
What is the brightest yellow? dg yellow/Saturn yellow/canary yellow, personal preference would be Saturn
What is the brightest orange? dg peach
What is the brightest blue? light blue, but blue is a better color IMO and imperial is meh
If the brightest blue is the Imperial blue, what is the darkest blue? dark blue

 

[BGinGA]

Hey guys!

First off, thank you for all of your hard work in sorting out the colours. I am ready to pull the trigger on a fairly large order from CPC using the scroll mold.

Can one of you please answer these questions for me?

What is the brightest green?
What is the brightest pink?
What is the brightest yellow?
What is the brightest orange?
What is the brightest blue?
If the brightest blue is the Imperial blue, what is the darkest blue?

Get actual color samples. It's a waste of time to design a set without them, and idiotic to actually order a set of chips without knowing exactly what you'll be getting. Trying to gauge colors using just internet pictures (or the chip factory) is not a smart move.

 

[slisk250]

Here are my pics taken in florescent light with no flash. They look just like the chips David sent me last week. They appear in the order as on the CPC website. I like that Maroon!!



Here are the non-weighted

 

[Poker Zombie]

Exactly as BGinGa says. You MUST have the samples or you are just grabbing semi-random colors. The light in your poker room will have an effect on the chips. If you have an overhead light the light reflecting off the table will have an effect. Saturn Yellow has a definite green tint to it. The base of the chip will have an effect on the appearance of the spots. The color of the inlay will affect everything.

People will paint a room in their house, first picking up a bunch of color cards then comparing them at home. Cost to paint a room: About $60. So why in the world would anyone spend $1000 or more without the same due diligence?

 

[onerand]

Thank you all for working on this thread.

 

[PAZ]

I labeled my set a few years ago...hope this is helpful!

 

[Ben]

"Brightest" is very subjective. Using different criteria I could claim that any of the blues (except dark blue) is brighter than all the others. Same with man red/retro red, arc yellow/dg peach/dg orange, etc. Get samples!

 

[CO0LHand]

yea, the purples were kind of a mystery to me but since I wasn't using them I just put em all in a pile and left em out of the process.

 

[maxim_666666]

why do not they do hot stamping with numbers or names of colors directly on the body of the chip, as I saw it at Paulson?

 

[stocky]

They don't have hot stamping capabilities at the moment

 

[Tommy]

I'm going to be putting up a resource like the Paulson color reference soon.

 

[maxim_666666]

that would be awesome!
I always get confused in the colors of ASM.
By the way, if I understand correctly, the CPC added to your samples 3 new colors. the rest remained the same as the ASM ...

 

[maxim_666666]

 

[maxim_666666]

strange that the new saturn yellow looks brighter ...

 

[Mental Nomad]

If you want to take pictures that people can help with more -

- put them on a piece of white paper as the background (or toneless gray, but it's hard to know that on sight)
- make sure there's more background white than chip color
- use fewer chips per picture
- try to get a white light (daylight is good)
- if you have a good white flash, force it to be on (even though it's daylight)

Why?

Your camera is automatically doing a 'white balance' over the whole picture. If the majority of the field is actual white, then your chips will be close to their real hue. But if most of your field is colored chips, then the camera's white balance is basing "white" on your chips - affecting all the hues.

If you look at PAZ's pictures, above - notice the background color on the page with green chips versus the others. The change comes from a mix of lighting conditions, and the fact that the camera is trying to determine how to set white balance based on what's in the picture.

(In an ideal world, you set the white balance on your camera without any chips in frame, lock in the balance, and then take pictures of the chips. Good product photography is a science.)