Tourney Chip breakdown using T 2,000 chips (1 Viewer)

AK Chip

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Hello,
I'm looking for a break down for a 500-600 chip set for a two table 20 person tournament to last 4-5 hours.

T25
T100
T500
T2,000

Also curious what color people are making their T 2,000 chips.

Thanks!
 
I could not decide between pink and yellow when I did it. Not very conventional but neither is a T2000 CHIP. :)
Screen Shot 2016-12-30 at 5.26.44 PM.png
 
Kuddos. I was contemplating making a 2k chip, as opposed to the standard 1k chip with my fat tire set. I wasn't brave. Following this with interest.
 
Sounds like a great idea. I've always scratched my head about why we use T500 chips and T1000 chips. I remember reading something about how the T500 is needed in smaller quantities as a "transitional" chip, but I didnt quite follow the reasoning. T2000 sounds like a great idea to me, and I'd go with the brightest orange clay available.
 
Personally I use a T500 and T1000 even though it's only a double multiple. If I were to get a T2000 I'd probably make it yellow or orange because it would be unlikely that it would be in play with my T1000 so similarity wouldn't be a concern. The other options would be to use your T1000s but treat them as T2000s for that specific tournament or use a non-denom chip. If I ever make non-denoms I'll probably make them blue.

That said I'm in the moar chips category but I'd probably want to play a few games needing a T2000 before I committed funds to ordering dedicated chips. Once you have T2000 chips in play you have to consider up the line as well - do you have T5000s? If so, they're now only a 2.5x multiple. Maybe that's a problem and maybe it's not.
 
I like a DG Tiger 2000 but that color wasn't available back then. The DG Pink for the add ons are much more bright today too.
 
Personally I use a T500 and T1000 even though it's only a double multiple. If I were to get a T2000 I'd probably make it yellow or orange because it would be unlikely that it would be in play with my T1000 so similarity wouldn't be a concern. The other options would be to use your T1000s but treat them as T2000s for that specific tournament or use a non-denom chip. If I ever make non-denoms I'll probably make them blue.

That said I'm in the moar chips category but I'd probably want to play a few games needing a T2000 before I committed funds to ordering dedicated chips. Once you have T2000 chips in play you have to consider up the line as well - do you have T5000s? If so, they're now only a 2.5x multiple. Maybe that's a problem and maybe it's not.

The T 2,000 would be the highest denom for my set. I would go with a 10,000 chip if I went for the next denom. I know the group of people I play with will kick and scream for a bit, they do not handle change well lol. I already expect a little grief with my new set with the odd color scheme.
All that said my house my chips and they will get over it quick.
 
160 x 25
160 x 100
140 x 500
140 x 2000

Starting stacks of 8/8/6/3

Enough T2K to have only that chip playing at the end with a good amount of rebuys...
 
160 x 25
160 x 100
140 x 500
140 x 2000

Starting stacks of 8/8/6/3

Enough T2K to have only that chip playing at the end with a good amount of rebuys...
Might need to add 20 500's to allow for color up.
 
My opinion is mostly in line with @ChaosRock, and if you have zero desire to ever use it as a cash set as well, then what he listed is exactly what I'd go with.

With that being said....

If you're limited to 600 chips and using a 2k chip, I think that basically necessitates an 8/8/6 breakdown, then add 2k's to complete your desired stacks. Going with 8/8/6/3 gives you T10k starting stacks and puts you at 500 starting chips.

160x 25
160x 100
120x 500
60x 2000

Then I'd add a barrel of non-denominated chips to be used as 10k's for rebuys OR as bounty chips, an extra barrel of 2k's for color-ups, and the rest could be split between 100's and 500's to your preference. I'd probably get two barrels of 100's and a barrel of 500's, but that's only because this can easily double as a cash set where the denoms represent actual pennies. The T100's, then, play as $1 chips, thus getting a couple extra barrels to give me two complete racks.

My personal final breakdown with non-denoms...

160x 25
200x 100
140x 500
80x 2000
20x Non-denom

Without non-denoms, my breakdown looks like this...

160x 25
200x 100
140x 500
100x 2000

Again, Paulo's breakdown is clearly more flexible for tournaments. The only reason you go with mine is if you're looking to play it as cash sometimes, which I like to do on occasion (but obviously not while a tournament is going on with the same exact chips).
 
My opinion is mostly in line with @ChaosRock, and if you have zero desire to ever use it as a cash set as well, then what he listed is exactly what I'd go with.

With that being said....

If you're limited to 600 chips and using a 2k chip, I think that basically necessitates an 8/8/6 breakdown, then add 2k's to complete your desired stacks. Going with 8/8/6/3 gives you T10k starting stacks and puts you at 500 starting chips.

160x 25
160x 100
120x 500
60x 2000

Then I'd add a barrel of non-denominated chips to be used as 10k's for rebuys OR as bounty chips, an extra barrel of 2k's for color-ups, and the rest could be split between 100's and 500's to your preference. I'd probably get two barrels of 100's and a barrel of 500's, but that's only because this can easily double as a cash set where the denoms represent actual pennies. The T100's, then, play as $1 chips, thus getting a couple extra barrels to give me two complete racks.

My personal final breakdown with non-denoms...

160x 25
200x 100
140x 500
80x 2000
20x Non-denom

Without non-denoms, my breakdown looks like this...

160x 25
200x 100
140x 500
100x 2000

Again, Paulo's breakdown is clearly more flexible for tournaments. The only reason you go with mine is if you're looking to play it as cash sometimes, which I like to do on occasion (but obviously not while a tournament is going on with the same exact chips).

I wont be using them for a cash set. I like your second break down but throwing the 20 denom chips into the 500's

160 x 25
200 x 100
160 x 500
80 x 2,000

Draw back to this is I wont have enough 2,000's to cover entire starting amount of chips, but that isn't such a big deal.
 
500's aren't needed for coloring up - only 2k's. A single 2k chip will color up one table's entire stock of 25's. Have the big stack buy all the 25's at the table, then color up the big stack.

Never colored up that way before but it makes sense. I have always used the next denom up to color up.

With that in mind Paulo's seems to be the way to go.
 
I wont be using them for a cash set. I like your second break down but throwing the 20 denom chips into the 500's

160 x 25
200 x 100
160 x 500
80 x 2,000

Draw back to this is I wont have enough 2,000's to cover entire starting amount of chips, but that isn't such a big deal.

I can understand wanting the extra barrel of 500's, but if you won't be using this for a cash set at all, there's no good reason I can see to have 200 T100 chips. Better to put those into the 2k slot and make the set more flexible overall (as well as speaking to your primary concern - more 2k chips to cover the starting amounts).

After all, you're already going to order a couple of spares for every denomination (right?), so no need for forty more than will ever actually hit the table.
 
I have always used the next denom up to color up.
I once thought this way. @BGinGA enlightened me. Coloring up 25's with 100's means that you're just putting more 100's on the table to remove later. 500's would make more sense in that case, but if your tournament rolls deep then even the 500's may have to get colored up at some point. The 1k - or, in your case, 2k - makes the most sense from a chip efficiency standpoint because in most cases they 1k's will never get colored up.
 
My opinion is mostly in line with @ChaosRock, and if you have zero desire to ever use it as a cash set as well, then what he listed is exactly what I'd go with.

With that being said....

If you're limited to 600 chips and using a 2k chip, I think that basically necessitates an 8/8/6 breakdown, then add 2k's to complete your desired stacks. Going with 8/8/6/3 gives you T10k starting stacks and puts you at 500 starting chips.

160x 25
160x 100
120x 500
60x 2000

Then I'd add a barrel of non-denominated chips to be used as 10k's for rebuys OR as bounty chips, an extra barrel of 2k's for color-ups, and the rest could be split between 100's and 500's to your preference. I'd probably get two barrels of 100's and a barrel of 500's, but that's

If AK adds a barrel of non-denom or T10K, totally agree with you.

If not, the T500 becomes totally irrelevant once blinds are at 4K/8K. 24 entries (20+4) gives us 240K in play, divided by 8K, we would have 30BB total, not necessarily before the end of the tournament, usually no later than 20BB total. I would feel more comfortable having enough T2K to cover all the entries at the end of the game.

* Even way before 4K/8K the T500 are used only for blinds, at around 1K/2K probably.
 
Thinking of a Hot Stamp set from CPC so adding the extra barrel for non-denom might not be an option.
 
Thinking of a Hot Stamp set from CPC so adding the extra barrel for non-denom might not be an option.
Depends on what you want to do. You could always go purely non-denom like I did, thus only having 1 die created. If you'd like to have denoms on it, you could do what @Mr Tree did and have the denom on one side only and just the logo on the reverse. In that case, you wouldn't need an extra die or setup fee since every chip in your set would be hit with the logo once; the non-denoms would just be hit with it twice.

Additionally, you can opt to use the stock denoms that CPC has available w/no customization. In that case, you only have the expense of a single die. You still have to pay the setup fees for the denominated chips, but those are minimal by comparison.

The only situation where there's an extra expense necessarily involved for having a non-denom created is where you have a different die on every chip. There's obviously nothing wrong with that, and if that's what you want, by all means, get what you want! Just pointing out that it doesn't *have* to be that way.
 
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Depends on what you want to do. You could always go purely non-denom like I did, thus only having 1 die created. If you'd like to have denoms on it, you could do what @Mr Tree did and have the denom on one side only and just the logo on the reverse. In that case, you wouldn't need an extra die or setup fee since every chip in your set would be hit with the logo once; the non-denoms would just be hit with it twice.

The only situation where there's an extra expense necessarily involved for having a non-denom created is where you have a different die on every chip. There's obviously nothing wrong with that, and if that's what you want, by all means, get what you want! Just pointing out that it doesn't *have* to be that way.
For reference

8F6E3F2A-0437-4532-96D8-6F1D83BEBEF0.jpg
 
You will need more T500 chips than a 'normal' stack, as it becomes a workhorse chip and rarely gets removed from play unless multi-tabling. With no T1000 in play, I think having 8xT500 per player is a better choice.

Players do adjust to the T2000 chip (vs T1000), but the transition is easier if the T2000 chip color is unique and not something normally associated with T1000 chips (like yellow or orange). Personally, I prefer a white T2000 (and blue T10K) or blue T2000 (and whiteT10K), but red, pink, gray, or brown would work as well.

break down for a 500-600 chip set for a two table 20 person tournament to last 4-5 hours.

T15000 stacks:

8 x T25
8 x T100
8 x T500
5 x T2000
--------------
29 chips = T15K

600-chip set:

160 x T25
160 x T100
160 x T500
120 x T2000 (includes 10x for T25/T100 color-ups) plus 10 spares
--------------
600 chips (note: those ten spares would be better served as T10000 which can be used to color-up the T500 chips)

T15K structure (300BB):

lvl sb bb
L1 25 50
L2 25 75
L3 50 100
L4 75 150
L5 100 200
L6 150 300
remove T25 chips)
L7 200 400
L8 300 600
L9 400 800
L10 600 1200
L11 800 1600
L12 1200 2400
remove T100 chips
L13 1500 3000
L14 2000 4000
L15 3000 6000
remove T500 chips (optional)
L16 4000 8000
L17 6000 12000
L18 8000 16000 ***
L19 12000 24000
L20 16000 32000

With 20 players using 15-minute levels, event should finish no later than L18 (4.5 hours plus breaks). Note that when using T2000 chips (and T500s removed from play), a 15k/30k blind level does not work.

Using smaller T10K stacks (with or without re-buys) would also work, of course.
 
Thanks Guys!!
This is where I'm at for now.

160 T 25 Light Green
160 T 100 Black
160 T 500 Lavender
120 T 2,000 White

I much prefer purple over lavender but have concerns with 100's and 500's with out edge spots getting confused with each other.
 
I much prefer purple over lavender but have concerns with 100's and 500's with out edge spots getting confused with each other.
Have you considered charcoal for the 100's? What about retro lavender for the 500's? Regardless, I think the white would look great as the T2k! Really glad this is coming together for you. I think you'll love the final product!

What mold are you considering?
 
I much prefer purple over lavender but have concerns with 100's and 500's with out edge spots getting confused with each other.
charcoal T100 and blurple T500 work together, as do black T100 and retro lav T500 (one of my favorite colors). Could even go with either T100 color and a peacock T500.
 
Coloring up 25's with 100's means that you're just putting more 100's on the table to remove later.

Exactly. Unless you're running a multi-day tourney, it makes more sense to only color up with chips that will never get run off the table, or else you're just creating more administrative work in an hour or two.

You can always bring one big chip, find someone who's in the lead, and make the smaller change you need for running off the tiny chips.
 
Players do adjust to the T2000 chip (vs T1000), but the transition is easier if the T2000 chip color is unique and not something normally associated with T1000 chips (like yellow or orange).
An excellent point. I guess I'm fortunate (cursed?) enough that my players aren't sophisticated enough to associate yellow or orange with a particular denomination. Even with the denoms printed on the inlays I still see them checking the wall cheat sheet from time to time.
 
SH$&%^^**t I just saw the Aces cash set look away.
 
600 Chips is a minimum

160x25 260x100 100x500 80x2000 or 160x25 160x100 200x500 80x2000

I like the first breakdown listed

Have Fun
 
I just have to quit looking at classifieds and ebay so I don't see another squirrel to chase in a different direction lol.

It happened again:( I couldn't pass on those mint 5's and the secondary 25's and 100's. That said I now have an ok tourney set of Paulson chips:)
 

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