I think prices have been varying a lot recently. $399 now. $299 last week. Some posters got them for under $200 early in the year.
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Barrington poker table thread (19 Viewers)
- Thread starter SixSpeedFury
- Start date
I think prices have been varying a lot recently. $399 now. $299 last week. Some posters got them for under $200 early in the year.
Thank you
Mongoose
Full House
The last two years they came down a lot around black Friday, or thereafter. I would not be a buyer at these prices unless I really needed one stat!
augster123
Two Pair
Costco seems to be the best bet if you don't mind picking up a large item. They appear to get a couple of big shipments per year and are empty the rest of the time. I think the listed at like $250 and then drop down to $200 after a few weeks. I think some folks bought them for even less than that.
Colquhoun
Straight Flush
The Barringtons at Costco were just offered during the holidays last year and were discounted steeply afterward. They weren't re-stocked either.
There is a slight possibilty that they will appear again this holiday season, but generally they switch things up from year to year.
I watch the Deals Guy on YouTube and when he was at Costco in one of his recent videos, you could see a table in the background so hopefully they will be back everywhere this year.
SootedFish
Waiting List
Has anyone replaced the rail on the barrington entirely and went to the cup holders that slide under the rail instead of being built into it? I have been considering this since I prefer the cupholders to not be in the rail but am on the fence and would love to see if someone else has done this.
willko
New Member
Based on what I am reading in this thread, it sounds like the Barrington tables just had a sale about a month ago, which I sadly missed. Does anyone think it's likely that there will be a sale for Black Friday or Cyber Monday? I've been checking Amazon/Wal-Mart/Wayfair daily to check for sales on the Premium Charleston 10-player table.
If they don't go on sale by Cyber Monday, I'll probably just bite the bullet and buy it at full price in order to get it in time to replace the cupholders before I have friends/family over for a home game around the holidays.
If they don't go on sale by Cyber Monday, I'll probably just bite the bullet and buy it at full price in order to get it in time to replace the cupholders before I have friends/family over for a home game around the holidays.
5V LED
________
Thanks to @greedyintern, @RadicusScout, @dmoney, and others for the great cupholder and LED mod instructions.
https://www.pokerchipforum.com/threads/barrington-poker-table-thread.30910/post-2352520
https://www.pokerchipforum.com/threads/barrington-poker-table-thread.30910/post-2405037
Just finished mine and it turned out great thanks to those detailed instructions.
For the COB LED lights, I did make a minor change which I haven’t seen posted. In case anyone’s interested:
The earlier LED lights are 12V, as are the dimmer and power bank. I instead used a 5V LED strip and dimmer. I wanted 5V so I could use a standard power bank, like the kind to charge a cell phone. It didn’t appeal to me to have a dedicated 12V power bank just for the table….I don’t have any other devices needing the 12V and I already have multiple 5V power banks.
It turns out Amazon has many 5V LED cob strips to choose at very low price. In fact, they typically have a standard USB-A plug already attached to the strip. If you plug it into a standard 5V power bank, it works! It’s too bright of course, so a dimmer is needed. Many have a basic dimmer also built-in to that USB plug, making a very low cost solution. I tried it, and it works, though only providing 6 discrete steps of dimming from about 100% down to about 25%. I chose a 5v strip with just the plain USB plug (no dimmer) and added a separate 5V dimmer which allows continuous dimming from 100% down to 0% (off), so I can use it at about the 15-20% setting which I prefer for my eye comfort.
The 5V strip I used was 3 meters long, enough for half the table with about 20” extra. So I bought two (about $10 each). There is one available 5 meters long, but that is barely long enough, or maybe a hair short. Buying two pieces also means I get two USB plugs and don’t have to add COB strip connectors.
5V COB LED lights
5V Dimmer
Male USB plug to bare wire cable
Female USB plug to bare wire cable (Optional. Delete if willing to cut and strip wiring)
Pictures:
Finished table:
Final mounted dimmer hardware:
Hardware in testing mode: This is where I used the optional Female-USB-plug-to-bare-wire cable for convenience. This cable can be skipped if you simply cut the end of the LED strip near the strip’s USB plug, strip the wires, and mount them directly to the dimmer. I did that in the picture above (final mounting):
Comparison of original Barrington LED lights to the 5V cob strip light. The latter is much more densely packed like the 12V LED’s. FYI, the 12V LED’s density is 480 LED’s per meter, the ones used by @greedyintern. The 5V LED density is less at 400 LED/M. It looks fine to me. If I dim it way down I can see individual LED’s similar to @greedyintern described also for the 12V LED’s. When lit, it looks good and fairly defused to me.
Most of the 5V LED’s on Amazon are actually even lower density, 320 LED/meter. Here’s a comparison of 320 LED/M (left) to 400 LED/M (right). Both are 5V LEDs. Also the left side is a 8mm strip (like @greedyintern 12V 480 LED/meter strip), while the right side is 5mm I used. The right strip is powered at minimum setting ~ 10% so it looks very faint, while the left strip is at about 25% (min setting of its built-in cheap dimmer). You can see the discrete LED’s of both by zooming-in. 400 LED/M strips were harder to find, which is why I used the 5mm strip. Both look good to me when lit up, especially compared to the original Barrington LEDs.
I took some current measurements at different dimmers setting with an inserted ammeter. The full 3 meter length was measured. I cut about 20” off from each strip for actual install, so actual game night current usage will be proportionally lower than in this table below. For the 400 LED/M strip I measured both/two strips while connected in parallel so I could verify the power bank would be sufficient. All readings are current in Amperes:
From row 1, the required power bank needed can be calculated by: Capacity = Current x Time.
E.g., at 50% dimmer setting, Capacity = 1,320mA x 1 hr = 1320 mAH rated power bank needed for each 1hr of run time. My 10,000mAH USB power bank is more than enough, especially since I’ll be running closer to the 20% dimmer setting and can get close to 13hrs of run time. I verified this, left the lights on for 9 hours at 20%, and the power bank was still 50% full (based on its indicator lights).
Here’s the 5V LED with 320 LED/m, 8mm with a built-in dimmer and USB plug.
________
Thanks to @greedyintern, @RadicusScout, @dmoney, and others for the great cupholder and LED mod instructions.
https://www.pokerchipforum.com/threads/barrington-poker-table-thread.30910/post-2352520
https://www.pokerchipforum.com/threads/barrington-poker-table-thread.30910/post-2405037
Just finished mine and it turned out great thanks to those detailed instructions.
For the COB LED lights, I did make a minor change which I haven’t seen posted. In case anyone’s interested:
The earlier LED lights are 12V, as are the dimmer and power bank. I instead used a 5V LED strip and dimmer. I wanted 5V so I could use a standard power bank, like the kind to charge a cell phone. It didn’t appeal to me to have a dedicated 12V power bank just for the table….I don’t have any other devices needing the 12V and I already have multiple 5V power banks.
It turns out Amazon has many 5V LED cob strips to choose at very low price. In fact, they typically have a standard USB-A plug already attached to the strip. If you plug it into a standard 5V power bank, it works! It’s too bright of course, so a dimmer is needed. Many have a basic dimmer also built-in to that USB plug, making a very low cost solution. I tried it, and it works, though only providing 6 discrete steps of dimming from about 100% down to about 25%. I chose a 5v strip with just the plain USB plug (no dimmer) and added a separate 5V dimmer which allows continuous dimming from 100% down to 0% (off), so I can use it at about the 15-20% setting which I prefer for my eye comfort.
The 5V strip I used was 3 meters long, enough for half the table with about 20” extra. So I bought two (about $10 each). There is one available 5 meters long, but that is barely long enough, or maybe a hair short. Buying two pieces also means I get two USB plugs and don’t have to add COB strip connectors.
5V COB LED lights
5V Dimmer
Male USB plug to bare wire cable
Female USB plug to bare wire cable (Optional. Delete if willing to cut and strip wiring)
Pictures:
Finished table:
Final mounted dimmer hardware:
Hardware in testing mode: This is where I used the optional Female-USB-plug-to-bare-wire cable for convenience. This cable can be skipped if you simply cut the end of the LED strip near the strip’s USB plug, strip the wires, and mount them directly to the dimmer. I did that in the picture above (final mounting):
Comparison of original Barrington LED lights to the 5V cob strip light. The latter is much more densely packed like the 12V LED’s. FYI, the 12V LED’s density is 480 LED’s per meter, the ones used by @greedyintern. The 5V LED density is less at 400 LED/M. It looks fine to me. If I dim it way down I can see individual LED’s similar to @greedyintern described also for the 12V LED’s. When lit, it looks good and fairly defused to me.
Most of the 5V LED’s on Amazon are actually even lower density, 320 LED/meter. Here’s a comparison of 320 LED/M (left) to 400 LED/M (right). Both are 5V LEDs. Also the left side is a 8mm strip (like @greedyintern 12V 480 LED/meter strip), while the right side is 5mm I used. The right strip is powered at minimum setting ~ 10% so it looks very faint, while the left strip is at about 25% (min setting of its built-in cheap dimmer). You can see the discrete LED’s of both by zooming-in. 400 LED/M strips were harder to find, which is why I used the 5mm strip. Both look good to me when lit up, especially compared to the original Barrington LEDs.
I took some current measurements at different dimmers setting with an inserted ammeter. The full 3 meter length was measured. I cut about 20” off from each strip for actual install, so actual game night current usage will be proportionally lower than in this table below. For the 400 LED/M strip I measured both/two strips while connected in parallel so I could verify the power bank would be sufficient. All readings are current in Amperes:
| 100% | 85% | 75% | 50% | 25% | 0% | |
| Two 5V LED strip with 400 LED/m, 5mm | 3.11 A | 1.97 A | 1.32 A | 0.75 A | 0 | |
| One 5V LED strip with 320 LED/m, 8mm | 1.27 A | 1.09 A | 0.84 A | 0.12 A |
From row 1, the required power bank needed can be calculated by: Capacity = Current x Time.
E.g., at 50% dimmer setting, Capacity = 1,320mA x 1 hr = 1320 mAH rated power bank needed for each 1hr of run time. My 10,000mAH USB power bank is more than enough, especially since I’ll be running closer to the 20% dimmer setting and can get close to 13hrs of run time. I verified this, left the lights on for 9 hours at 20%, and the power bank was still 50% full (based on its indicator lights).
Here’s the 5V LED with 320 LED/m, 8mm with a built-in dimmer and USB plug.
cowboy7
Sitting Out
Non LED @ $199 right now - https://www.walmart.com/ip/55465427?sid=20625ae8-c7c3-48fe-a700-10115be38cb1
And LED-version is $250.
Is there rough consensus here about which one people prefer? I've heard the LED one is sturdier, weighing 79lbs vs 66lbs for the non-LED.
For people who've played on both, which would you recommend?
Tarsus4
High Hand
Colquhoun
Straight Flush
I have had both, I like the thicker deck of the LED one, but it’s definitely heavier. If you need it mobile, I would consider the lighter one. Since I’m not moving it much, a thicker plywood deck is preferable.
The LED one has slightly deeper cup holders, but not enough to make a real difference. An upgrade for those is a nice improvement.
The metal tubing for the legs is a bit wider, but both tables are sturdy.
On the LED table, the padded rail is slightly more elevated over the deck than the non-LED, I’m guessing si the lights can show.
Last edited:
lennon
Waiting List
How did you run the cob lights from under the table to the sides of it? EDIT: It looks like you may have just followed the way the existing led strips were ran? I’m guessing that hole they run through was already there?
Yes, just follow the existing light strip. It goes into the hole at the middle of the table.
Attachments
*** CUP HOLDER COVERS ***
I don’t like drinks on the table due to spillage, etc. so I use side tables instead. Because of that, doing the cup holder upgrade made no sense for my situation and I’ve been in search of a way to “cap off” the stock cup holders that come with my Barrington.
I’m happy to say that I’ve found a solution and wanted to share.
Supplies from Amazon:
Note that you need to be sure to buy the “regular mouth” size of both the lids and the gaskets, and you must get the lids made from acacia wood because of their tapered lip. Do not get the bamboo ones as their lip is rounded and they won’t fit well.
Add the silicone gasket to the lid, placing it between the gray flange already there and the underside of the wooden lip. Be sure the “open” side of the gasket is facing up, as shown (also note the tapered lip of the lid).
When capping the cup holder off you may need to work the gasket back and forth a bit and maybe tuck it down a bit so it sits inside the cup holder rim.
I try adding links below to short video clips to show how loose the lid fits without the added gasket and how much better it is with it.
Without:
https://photos.app.goo.gl/Q21EyLpfPHAuCjsj6
With:
https://photos.app.goo.gl/WwJEH6KjfzJLn4fk8
You can see how secure it is with the added gasket.
I really wanted black cup holders and black lids to make them blend in more, but I was only partly successful. Attempts at prepping and painting the cup holders failed as the paint would never fully cure and harden even after 2 weeks (even paint made specifically for metal), and the powder-coated black cup holders that come with some Barrington tables are about 1/8 inch too tall to fit flush with the rail.
That’s why you may have seen my request for replacement cup holders here on PCF… I needed to get back to the original stainless steel after a few failed attempts!
However, I was able to paint my lids black. Just remove the gray silicone flange/cover, mask off the bottom with painters tape, and apply a few thin coats of fast-drying spray paint. I chose a black hammered-finish which I think looks nice. Be sure to let this cure for several days. Remove the masking, put the original flange back on, add the extra gasket and your back in business.
Here’s the finished product (missing my semi-custom table topper). Pretty dang happy with how this turned out.
I don’t like drinks on the table due to spillage, etc. so I use side tables instead. Because of that, doing the cup holder upgrade made no sense for my situation and I’ve been in search of a way to “cap off” the stock cup holders that come with my Barrington.
I’m happy to say that I’ve found a solution and wanted to share.
Supplies from Amazon:
12 Pack Regular Mouth Mason Jar Lids - Acacia Wooden Storage, Canning Ball Jar with Airtight Silicone Seal, Brown
https://a.co/d/8qTRtv7
12 PCS Silicone Seal Rings Reusable Leak Proof Sealing Gaskets Replacement for Mason Jar Lids (Regular Mouth 70mm)
https://a.co/d/hvyms6cNote that you need to be sure to buy the “regular mouth” size of both the lids and the gaskets, and you must get the lids made from acacia wood because of their tapered lip. Do not get the bamboo ones as their lip is rounded and they won’t fit well.
Add the silicone gasket to the lid, placing it between the gray flange already there and the underside of the wooden lip. Be sure the “open” side of the gasket is facing up, as shown (also note the tapered lip of the lid).
When capping the cup holder off you may need to work the gasket back and forth a bit and maybe tuck it down a bit so it sits inside the cup holder rim.
I try adding links below to short video clips to show how loose the lid fits without the added gasket and how much better it is with it.
Without:
https://photos.app.goo.gl/Q21EyLpfPHAuCjsj6
With:
https://photos.app.goo.gl/WwJEH6KjfzJLn4fk8
You can see how secure it is with the added gasket.
I really wanted black cup holders and black lids to make them blend in more, but I was only partly successful. Attempts at prepping and painting the cup holders failed as the paint would never fully cure and harden even after 2 weeks (even paint made specifically for metal), and the powder-coated black cup holders that come with some Barrington tables are about 1/8 inch too tall to fit flush with the rail.
That’s why you may have seen my request for replacement cup holders here on PCF… I needed to get back to the original stainless steel after a few failed attempts!
However, I was able to paint my lids black. Just remove the gray silicone flange/cover, mask off the bottom with painters tape, and apply a few thin coats of fast-drying spray paint. I chose a black hammered-finish which I think looks nice. Be sure to let this cure for several days. Remove the masking, put the original flange back on, add the extra gasket and your back in business.
Here’s the finished product (missing my semi-custom table topper). Pretty dang happy with how this turned out.
Last edited:
Tagging a few who helped supply me with cup holders or showed interest in this project
@RadicusScout @sleepyhead @Trip7MHK @Colquhoun @Boother36 @TwinChameleon @extreme517
@RadicusScout @sleepyhead @Trip7MHK @Colquhoun @Boother36 @TwinChameleon @extreme517
Last edited:
cowboy7
Sitting Out
For people that have bought the non-LED version, would you purchase @ $199?
Colquhoun
Straight Flush
New? Yes, that's decent sale price. It's been cheaper, but that was a while back.
Wow, great deal.
I’m picking up a non-LED one, hoping it doesn’t get damaged in shipping
If anyone has a properly fitting topper in decent shape I’m in the market! Just ordered the recommended storage bag to help make it mobile
If anyone has a properly fitting topper in decent shape I’m in the market! Just ordered the recommended storage bag to help make it mobile
Tweedledum
Sitting Out
My non led table arrived a couple days ago! I'm happy with the $200 price I paid, but just a little bit less happy now that I see the price dropped a little lower. I remember seeing that someone was making reasonably priced, nice toppers for these but I can't seem to find that now. Is someone still making them? Those of you who have toppers, are you happy with them?
@rjdev7 is your man for toppers. I got a round topper for a different table and it was a big improvement. He makes Barrington-sized toppers at $135 shipped I think... the one I got shipped from Lithuania I think (or Latvia?) so I don't know if new tariffs have impacted pricing.
Great toppers! The order thread is here: https://www.pokerchipforum.com/threads/made-to-order-custom-table-toppers.96993/
I'm also waiting for Ryan's reply from my request 8 days ago. He get's busy and eventually replies.
Mixalot
Two Pair
$149 for the non led at Wally World
jellomuncher
New Member
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