1st Cpc chip mockup....feed back please (1 Viewer)

[italstylz]

The name is what has me tripped up for my last set. I’ve bounced back and forth between two names and see issues with both. I won’t be buying for a while, so I have time. But yeah, it’s hard. The others were easy for me.

It's so hard cause there are so many things you want to incorporate. Cant narrow it down...if $$$$"wasnt and object I would order 50 sets....lol

 

[Josh Kifer]

Hey guys , so iv been working on a custom chip set. I designed the inlay front and back. What do you think of the name???? Asking for feed back on everything inlay design, chips design and colorsView attachment 854237View attachment 854238View attachment 854246View attachment 854247View attachment 854249iv come up with 2 different designs for the 500 and 5000 chip, let me know which you guys like better




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I mean this in a nice way. But you do know you don't need Level 9 spots. I firmly believe most people go "bigger is better" when it can be done better with a lighter hand. The spot weight across the board is so random to me that I can't figure out the flow. They look like 5 individually neat chips, but I can't figure out why they would be together. Again, just trying to assist.

 

[warma]

Order two sets…problem solved ha

Last night I had the idea of buying 4 racks from David covering the two designs (1/2 small bet & value chips each). Assuming I like one, I’m out $500 & 2 racks vs $4K for a full set.

 

[TomC727]

Last night I had the idea of buying 4 racks from David covering the two designs (1/2 small bet & value chips each). Assuming I like one, I’m out $500 & 2 racks vs $4K for

The best advise I can give about CPC set ordering, is when you want to pull the trigger and place the order, wait a month, and then place it (of course unless CPC is about to close the ordering on that specific mold). This is a lesson I learned over the 4 sets I’ve ordered.

My first 2 sets I designed and ordered, were ordered as blanks. I should have waited a month and got inlay ideas before ordering (I thought I didn’t want inlays at the time).

Eventually, I designed 2 more sets with inlays, but being patient could have saved me a lot of money.

 

[LinkyBabe]

The best advise I can give about CPC set ordering, is when you want to pull the trigger and place the order, wait a month, and then place it (of course unless CPC is about to close the ordering on that specific mold). This is a lesson I learned over the 4 sets I’ve ordered.

My first 2 sets I designed and ordered, were ordered as blanks. I should have waited a month and got inlay ideas before ordering (I thought I didn’t want inlays at the time).

Eventually, I designed 2 more sets with inlays, but being patient could have saved me a lot of money.

Your reasoning for this advice is very unique to those ordering blanks only though, and I don't suspect those orders to be the norm. Maybe it would be better for those ordering blanks to put inlays in anyway so that when you're prompted for artwork down the road you can change your mind at that time.

 

[warma]

The best advise I can give about CPC set ordering, is when you want to pull the trigger and place the order, wait a month, and then place it (of course unless CPC is about to close the ordering on that specific mold). This is a lesson I learned over the 4 sets I’ve ordered.

My first 2 sets I designed and ordered, were ordered as blanks. I should have waited a month and got inlay ideas before ordering (I thought I didn’t want inlays at the time).

Eventually, I designed 2 more sets with inlays, but being patient could have saved me a lot of money.

Totally agree. Or maybe wait even longer.

In my case, however, I’m confident in my colors, I’m just not sure which spot pattern would pop better in real life.

 

[BukNaked36]

Love the 100 and first 500. They both have a lot of pop to them. I think they are really great looking chips.

The 25 just looks confusing to me. I think it's the gray - personal bias though as I don't like gray generally as a chip color.

On the 1000, I think the light blue also looks kind of weak. I ran through every other color and don't have a good suggestion though.

The inlays look too complex. The side with the denomination in smaller text may be hard to read.

 

[italstylz]

Love the 100 and first 500. They both have a lot of pop to them. I think they are really great looking chips.

The 25 just looks confusing to me. I think it's the gray - personal bias though as I don't like gray generally as a chip color.

On the 1000, I think the light blue also looks kind of weak. I ran through every other color and don't have a good suggestion though.

The inlays look too complex. The side with the denomination in smaller text may be hard to read.

Thanks , I'm in the process of redesigning the inlays. I'm also designing a few other that came to mind after talking with another member. I'll put them up for critics soon as I'm done. I also redid some of the spot colors on he chips and I think all the feed back helped. Personally think they look way better......for my 25 chips I'm torn cause I really dont like any of the greens....and I love the 1/4 pie. So was trying to incorporate it into the set. I'm open for suggestions.....what other colors could I use for 25 denomination???

 

[SixSpeedFury]

Level 9 chip for a frac? Ballin!

 

[BukNaked36]

Thanks , I'm in the process of redesigning the inlays. I'm also designing a few other that came to mind after talking with another member. I'll put them up for critics soon as I'm done. I also redid some of the spot colors on he chips and I think all the feed back helped. Personally think they look way better......for my 25 chips I'm torn cause I really dont like any of the greens....and I love the 1/4 pie. So was trying to incorporate it into the set. I'm open for suggestions.....what other colors could I use for 25 denomination???

Getting a lot into personal taste but I've always liked pink and green together. Not sure what to pick for a third color with your spot pattern.

If you don't like green, then I think the next choices would be going predominantly pink or white.

 

[italstylz]

So After speaking with another fellow member about inspiration and what custom set means to me. Iv gone back to the drawing board and have come up with a few new inlay designs. I like all of them and can seam to pick 1 I like the best. So maybe with some constructive criticism I'll be able to narrow it down. The first is the original just redone and way less busy. The second speaks for itself. One of my favorite movies. The last one is dedicated to my home town

 

[TomC727]

So After speaking with another fellow member about inspiration and what custom set means to me. Iv gone back to the drawing board and have come up with a few new inlay designs. I like all of them and can seam to pick 1 I like the best. So maybe with some constructive criticism I'll be able to narrow it down. The first is the original just redone and way less busy. The second speaks for itself. One of my favorite movies. The last one is dedicated to my home town
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I really like 1-4 of the Hammer Town inlays. The simplicity of the design is solid. Not sure what your set will be, a cash or tourney set, but those inlays would be fantastic for a tourney set.

I love The Godfather inlays in theory, but I would be afraid the detail of their faces wouldn’t come through all that well on the chips.

 

[Benjaminotaur]

So After speaking with another fellow member about inspiration and what custom set means to me. Iv gone back to the drawing board and have come up with a few new inlay designs. I like all of them and can seam to pick 1 I like the best. So maybe with some constructive criticism I'll be able to narrow it down. The first is the original just redone and way less busy. The second speaks for itself. One of my favorite movies. The last one is dedicated to my home town
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These are really cleaned up and pretty sharp. Waaaaaay better from my perspective. If I were to choose from both, I would go with 2. I would also consider choosing something other than white on your gradient scale for the pinpoint in the center. Even a gray somewhere along that same gradient would help the denomination and crown pop even more. I think they’re just a little washed out.
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Of the movie options, I think I like 3 the best. I think the colors and composition make for the clearest image, which will be super important on a detailed image like that scaled down to poker chip size. That said, I would be nervous that you’ll still lose some of that fine detail in printing process that is popping on the screen right now. I would also use the title font for the denominations. The font you have on there now doesn’t seem to match, and The Godfather font is so classic, I’d work it in wherever you can.
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I like design of one the best, but I really like the font on the second one. Same note for the gradient here. I like it in principle, I just think it needs to come down a little in brightness for it to read better. I’d also play around with coloring the denominations to make that stick out a little bit more. Either that or shrink your central logo, shift it up a bit and enlarge the denomination font. Whatever that “H” is on the outer ring of all of them is really great too. Did you play around with using that as your central logo?

Of the three, I like hammer, crown, godfather in that order (with the changes I listed of course

Overall, I think these are leaps and bounds from where you started. The hard work is really showing. Can’t wait to see this continue to grow!!

 

[italstylz]

I really like 1-4 of the Hammer Town inlays. The simplicity of the design is solid. Not sure what your set will be, a cash or tourney set, but those inlays would be fantastic for a tourney set.

I love The Godfather inlays in theory, but I would be afraid the detail of their faces wouldn’t come through all that well on the chips.

Its going to be a tournament set. I was worried about the detail. I was contemplating just a silhouette of there face instead. That would probably work way better.

 

[italstylz]

I like design of one the best, but I really like the font on the second one. Same note for the gradient here. I like it in principle, I just think it needs to come down a little in brightness for it to read better. I’d also play around with coloring the denominations to make that stick out a little bit more. Either that or shrink your central logo, shift it up a bit and enlarge the denomination font. Whatever that “H” is on the outer ring of all of them is really great too. Did you play around with using that as your central logo?

Of the three, I like hammer, crown, godfather in that order (with the changes I listed of course

Overall, I think these are leaps and bounds from where you started. The hard work is really showing. Can’t wait to see this continue to grow!!

I never thought about using the h for the main logo, that would be cool as well. I think your right about making the logo smaller....the brightness of which one...I didn't follow??

 

[Benjaminotaur]

I never thought about using the h for the main logo, that would be cool as well. I think your right about making the logo smaller....the brightness of which one...I didn't follow??

I would play around with the “h” hammer if you’re thinking of going that way. To me, that could be the closest to a logo you’ve got, which always feels more polished to me.

I was referring strictly to the faded gradient being used when going from your point in the center to dark ring on the outside. In your design program you can choose which two colors you fade to and from. Right now it looks like pure black on the outside fading to pure white at the point in the center. I would go from black outside to some shade of gray at the center. As it is now, the image gets “foggier” as you get towards that bright white. If you choose a gray, it will look clearer because your eye won’t be compensating for the quick switch to from one end of the spectrum to the other.

On that same subject, you cold play around with going from black to another color too, maybe the color of the chip denomination. On the right design, that can look really cool too.

Did that clear it up? About the same? Or did I just make it worse

 

[italstylz]

I would play around with the “h” hammer if you’re thinking of going that way. To me, that could be the closest to a logo you’ve got, which always feels more polished to me.

I was referring strictly to the faded gradient being used when going from your point in the center to dark ring on the outside. In your design program you can choose which two colors you fade to and from. Right now it looks like pure black on the outside fading to pure white at the point in the center. I would go from black outside to some shade of gray at the center. As it is now, the image gets “foggier” as you get towards that bright white. If you choose a gray, it will look clearer because your eye won’t be compensating for the quick switch to from one end of the spectrum to the other.

On that same subject, you cold play around with going from black to another color too, maybe the color of the chip denomination. On the right design, that can look really cool too.

Did that clear it up? About the same? Or did I just make it worse

Totally cleared it up. I understand what your saying now. Thanks

 

[chipinla]

I never thought about using the h for the main logo, that would be cool as well. I think your right about making the logo smaller....the brightness of which one...I didn't follow??

If you’re going CPC you should look at using the H mold for Hammer Town. By far the best of these designs IMO. Nice work.

 

[facinfears217]

1 and 1 both really nice designs!